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WI, USA
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Posted: 11/16/2022 2:10:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheRX7Project]
[#1]
Another Benchy to test out that IIIDMAX PLA+ that I ordered. It actually came out really nice- at least as good if not better than the one I printed from my eSun PLA+.
So now I just hit the print button on another G26 frame, this one in fuschia with Live, Laugh, Love embossed on the side, for my wife. Also, fired up the resin printer to print out some stuff for a desk vise. Nothing strong or anything which is why I just used the resin printer. |
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Posted: 11/16/2022 9:02:11 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Emt1581: Impressive! I'm curious to know what machining/fabrication was required beyond the printer? Given how simple the Glocks and AR's are by comparison, not sure why future models couldn't be simplified to avoid the need to custom machine anything out of metal. Then again, Glocks and AR's are established designs with massive aftermarket supports. Thanks for sharing! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Emt1581: Originally Posted By AFCarbon15: Only about 2 years late to the FGC9 party https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/89127/Resized_20221103_193425_jpeg-2601048.JPG Impressive! I'm curious to know what machining/fabrication was required beyond the printer? Given how simple the Glocks and AR's are by comparison, not sure why future models couldn't be simplified to avoid the need to custom machine anything out of metal. Then again, Glocks and AR's are established designs with massive aftermarket supports. Thanks for sharing! There are several companies selling all the "hard" parts already complete. But they're kinda pricey for what they are. They aren't hard to "machine" and they don't need to be very precise. But I like machining and welding so maybe my view is a little skewed. The whole concept and design of the FGC9 is to make a functional sub gun from non gun parts. Using an AR FCG makes the build a lot easier. I made my own barrels, but those too can be bought. There are plans and stl's available for builds with RP9 and glock barrels. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 11/18/2022 2:02:27 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheRX7Project: Another Benchy to test out that IIIDMAX PLA+ that I ordered. It actually came out really nice- at least as good if not better than the one I printed from my eSun PLA+. So now I just hit the print button on another G26 frame, this one in fuschia with Live, Laugh, Love embossed on the side, for my wife. Also, fired up the resin printer to print out some stuff for a desk vise. Nothing strong or anything which is why I just used the resin printer. I had a good experience with IIIDMAX PLA+ as well. Then I got 6 rolls out of a batch that had huge variances in the diameter. Like going from 1.84mm to 1.6mm. I thought I had Z banding issues, but nope was the filament varying in diameter affecting flow rates. They did refund me for those 6 rolls, so at least they stand by their product. I think their PLA+ is more brittle than ESUN PLA+, but it did look good when it printed. For just $2 more a roll you can buy Jayo PLA+ (Sunlu). |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 11/18/2022 8:40:55 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By memsu: I had a good experience with IIIDMAX PLA+ as well. Then I got 6 rolls out of a batch that had huge variances in the diameter. Like going from 1.84mm to 1.6mm. I thought I had Z banding issues, but nope was the filament varying in diameter affecting flow rates. They did refund me for those 6 rolls, so at least they stand by their product. I think their PLA+ is more brittle than ESUN PLA+, but it did look good when it printed. For just $2 more a roll you can buy Jayo PLA+ (Sunlu). Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By memsu: Originally Posted By TheRX7Project: Another Benchy to test out that IIIDMAX PLA+ that I ordered. It actually came out really nice- at least as good if not better than the one I printed from my eSun PLA+. So now I just hit the print button on another G26 frame, this one in fuschia with Live, Laugh, Love embossed on the side, for my wife. Also, fired up the resin printer to print out some stuff for a desk vise. Nothing strong or anything which is why I just used the resin printer. I had a good experience with IIIDMAX PLA+ as well. Then I got 6 rolls out of a batch that had huge variances in the diameter. Like going from 1.84mm to 1.6mm. I thought I had Z banding issues, but nope was the filament varying in diameter affecting flow rates. They did refund me for those 6 rolls, so at least they stand by their product. I think their PLA+ is more brittle than ESUN PLA+, but it did look good when it printed. For just $2 more a roll you can buy Jayo PLA+ (Sunlu). I hope my batch doesn't have any hidden issues mid-roll, I'm currently about 29 hours deep in printing an NT-79 receiver  |
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Posted: 11/18/2022 10:27:54 AM EDT
[Last Edit: bansil]
[#5]
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Posted: 11/19/2022 10:52:54 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bansil: 28 hours later the top part of my cab is done, turned out great https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/388306/20221118_073419_jpg-2604550.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/388306/20221118_075424_jpg-2604551.JPG You need a bigger nozzle. I'd have that baby cranked out in 5 hours. |
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Posted: 11/19/2022 10:53:47 AM EDT
[#7]
Y Axis finished. I know, it's not a print, but it's print related I guess. Other printer is still going brr with boring stuff.
  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/19/2022 11:18:59 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: You need a bigger nozzle. I'd have that baby cranked out in 5 hours. Okay, I'm listening......you seem to be guru and it shows  Attached FileEverything is stock settings ,using cura. I would love to print faster.....I don't like to mess with stuff if I don't understand it and the out come. Oh and 17 hrs later I have cab floor done  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/19/2022 11:45:33 AM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bansil: Okay, I'm listening......you seem to be guru and it shows /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/B926BC70-2451-4EC1-A889-3A3C070B9F9D-404.gif Everything is stock settings ,using cura. I would love to print faster.....I don't like to mess with stuff if I don't understand it and the out come. Oh and 17 hrs later I have cab floor done https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/388306/20221119_095856_jpg-2605870.JPG You would need to look into max volumetric flow rate of your hot end, but my Prusa can do 25+ mm^3 of filament per second. That allows me to print this 250g wrench in 5 hours. I actually got it down to four hours but surface quality suffered so I backed it out some. That's a roll of filament every 20 hours. I burn through 1kg/day average.  Attached FileSo look at max flow rates, speeds, and nozzle sizes. I print almost everything at 0.6mm these days. The resolution is 90% as good as a 0.4mm while printing at LEAST twice as fast, usually more. To play with it set your slicer to a 0.6 nozzle, and play with layer heights. Layer heights grow as nozzle size grows which helps make it even faster. Just something to consider. Most people I know that convert and try a 0.6mm never bother going back unless you have ULTRA detailed parts. Some go further and go with a 0.8mm nozzle but I feel like you start to give up significant detail at that point. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 11/19/2022 1:05:15 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: You would need to look into max volumetric flow rate of your hot end, but my Prusa can do 25+ mm^3 of filament per second. That allows me to print this 250g wrench in 5 hours. I actually got it down to four hours but surface quality suffered so I backed it out some. That's a roll of filament every 20 hours. I burn through 1kg/day average. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20221119_104039_jpg-2605888.JPG So look at max flow rates, speeds, and nozzle sizes. I print almost everything at 0.6mm these days. The resolution is 90% as good as a 0.4mm while printing at LEAST twice as fast, usually more. To play with it set your slicer to a 0.6 nozzle, and play with layer heights. Layer heights grow as nozzle size grows which helps make it even faster. Just something to consider. Most people I know that convert and try a 0.6mm never bother going back unless you have ULTRA detailed parts. Some go further and go with a 0.8mm nozzle but I feel like you start to give up significant detail at that point. |
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Posted: 11/19/2022 2:02:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheRX7Project: How do the larger nozzle prints compare strength wise? Larger extrusions yield stronger prints, all else equal
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Posted: 11/19/2022 2:42:50 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: You would need to look into max volumetric flow rate of your hot end, but my Prusa can do 25+ mm^3 of filament per second. That allows me to print this 250g wrench in 5 hours. I actually got it down to four hours but surface quality suffered so I backed it out some. That's a roll of filament every 20 hours. I burn through 1kg/day average. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20221119_104039_jpg-2605888.JPG So look at max flow rates, speeds, and nozzle sizes. I print almost everything at 0.6mm these days. The resolution is 90% as good as a 0.4mm while printing at LEAST twice as fast, usually more. To play with it set your slicer to a 0.6 nozzle, and play with layer heights. Layer heights grow as nozzle size grows which helps make it even faster. Just something to consider. Most people I know that convert and try a 0.6mm never bother going back unless you have ULTRA detailed parts. Some go further and go with a 0.8mm nozzle but I feel like you start to give up significant detail at that point. I just started using a 0.6. Absolutely love it so far. My prints still look great and I think that they are stronger. |
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Posted: 11/19/2022 2:44:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Rat_Patrol]
[#13]
.6 nozzle here as well, except I still run a .4 on the Mini. I don't even bother with .4 nozzles on the MK3s anymore
Fun fact: Back in the before time, .5 was the standard
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Posted: 11/19/2022 3:03:33 PM EDT
[#14]
Breaking for lunch. The trapezoid nuts on the X axis took me forever. They have two nuts that sit in blind pockets and one cross threaded.
 Then neighbor called and asked me to help him move his washer and dryer so that took an hour. Almost done with the extruder. Doing it right and starting off with a Mosquito.   Attached File |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 11/19/2022 3:22:40 PM EDT
[#15]
Anyone willing to share a PRS-style tac table (for a tripod) file? I have no CAD experience (I know I should learn sometime) and want to try printing one!
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Posted: 11/19/2022 7:01:13 PM EDT
[#16]
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Posted: 11/19/2022 7:15:43 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Woo. Initial calibrations in process. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20221119_175604_jpg-2606584.JPG Nice. I'm printing this: MUCH Improved Spool Winder - Helical Gears I've had some spaghetti prints when the spool tangled itself (Proto Pasta 50g samples), and some of the PETG I dried in the oven sticks to itself enough to cause issues. |
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Posted: 11/19/2022 9:11:30 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Roland-G23: Nice. I'm printing this: MUCH Improved Spool Winder - Helical Gears I've had some spaghetti prints when the spool tangled itself (Proto Pasta 50g samples), and some of the PETG I dried in the oven sticks to itself enough to cause issues. Thanks! This new one ABLs about three times faster than my first one. Looks like I have a firmware update to install on the old one.
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Posted: 11/21/2022 8:53:06 PM EDT
[#19]
Been learning fusion360 and printed these, 1 is radiator protection from water, bullets and/or dinosaur bits and pcs, the other is for back cab ventilation
 Attached FileGrill looks like this  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/21/2022 9:30:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#20]
Printed a passthrough for power cables on the new enclosure.
Finished.  Attached FileTurns out, my spool holders are too efficient. The spools aren't perfectly balanced and they unwind themselves as the heavy portion passes TDC. 
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Posted: 11/21/2022 9:47:05 PM EDT
[#21]
Pretty sure here in arfcourt
 magnets are the answer  or was that tannerite  They look sexy...no homo  So the colored "upgrades" are they actually stiffeners and such? Seems like lot of work? Is this hobby level upgrades or 24/7 life savers? |
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Posted: 11/21/2022 9:52:43 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Printed a passthrough for power cables on the new enclosure. Finished. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20221121_202746_jpg-2609453.JPG Turns out, my spool holders are too efficient. The spools aren't perfectly balanced and they unwind themselves as the heavy portion passes TDC. We should start a pool to see how long it takes those 2 to become 4. Jealous, that's probably the worst thing about this hobby, is the waiting. More printers, less waiting. Kind of like collecting tax stamps. |
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Posted: 11/21/2022 9:57:21 PM EDT
[#23]
Spool rewinder I printed this weekend. Got a fair amount untangled from the Atomic Red PETG, but the filament broke 2x. Prusament Army Green PLA and Prusa Galaxy Silver PLA.
 
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Posted: 11/21/2022 10:32:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bansil: Pretty sure here in arfcourt magnets are the answer or was that tannerite They look sexy...no homo So the colored "upgrades" are they actually stiffeners and such? Seems like lot of work? Is this hobby level upgrades or 24/7 life savers? You talking about the green parts vs orange? Or something else? The green parts are a bit stiffer than stock but only because I print everything overkill. It doesn't do anything for the MK3S+. It's stiff enough for what I do regardless. |
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Posted: 11/21/2022 10:36:22 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Roland-G23: We should start a pool to see how long it takes those 2 to become 4. Jealous, that's probably the worst thing about this hobby, is the waiting. More printers, less waiting. Kind of like collecting tax stamps. The third Prusa (XL) has been on order for quite some time. I'll make that one Yellow. I'll probably need to use an IKEA coffee table for the enclosure. I also have an Ender 3 Pro which I need to unload. It's in pieces right now. Might start a thread for a price check. I have no idea what used printer stuff sells for. |
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Posted: 11/21/2022 11:11:55 PM EDT
[#26]
Ok ,cool just purty stuff....I remember back 2012 we had to print 6 months of stuff before we could use them
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Posted: 11/21/2022 11:17:27 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bansil: Pretty sure here in arfcourt magnets are the answer or was that tannerite They look sexy...no homo So the colored "upgrades" are they actually stiffeners and such? Seems like lot of work? Is this hobby level upgrades or 24/7 life savers? Did you not notice what his username is?
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Posted: 11/22/2022 5:16:57 AM EDT
[#28]
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Posted: 11/22/2022 10:40:38 AM EDT
[#29]
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Posted: 11/22/2022 11:10:48 AM EDT
[#30]
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Posted: 11/22/2022 1:37:51 PM EDT
[#31]
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TN, USA
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Posted: 11/22/2022 2:18:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Popov]
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By itchytrigger: https://i.postimg.cc/tCPcNM7v/kd1.jpg Tread on those who tread on you |
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Posted: 11/22/2022 3:36:15 PM EDT
[#33]
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WI, USA
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Posted: 11/22/2022 4:30:38 PM EDT
[#34]
Still printing away at my NT79. Discovered that my receiver did not print correctly- I tried a different orientation as I mentioned in the thread- so I'll be reprinting, in the normal orientation, next. So far the fore and aft barrel sleeves, internal parts and external bits are done. Center barrel sleeve printing now. Then another receiver, then the stock.
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Posted: 11/22/2022 8:59:11 PM EDT
[#35]
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Posted: 11/22/2022 9:02:58 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryOriginally Posted By itchytrigger: Originally Posted By Roland-G23: STL? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4851061 I work for a CAT dealer, makes me wish he had used a CAT. Might still print and talk our parts counter into displaying it somewhere.
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Posted: 11/23/2022 8:40:29 AM EDT
[#37]
did a few 1:14 bed accessories, trying to get an idea on layout while waiting for new nozzles, not cleaned up, straight off beds
 Attached File |
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Posted: 11/23/2022 8:29:07 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryThanks! Just got done slicing all the bits, with a .6 nozzle and .3 layer height, looks like 11.5 hours of print time at full size. I think I have some yellow PLA, definitely have black and gray. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 11/23/2022 9:22:54 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: You would need to look into max volumetric flow rate of your hot end, but my Prusa can do 25+ mm^3 of filament per second. That allows me to print this 250g wrench in 5 hours. I actually got it down to four hours but surface quality suffered so I backed it out some. That's a roll of filament every 20 hours. I burn through 1kg/day average. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20221119_104039_jpg-2605888.JPG So look at max flow rates, speeds, and nozzle sizes. I print almost everything at 0.6mm these days. The resolution is 90% as good as a 0.4mm while printing at LEAST twice as fast, usually more. To play with it set your slicer to a 0.6 nozzle, and play with layer heights. Layer heights grow as nozzle size grows which helps make it even faster. Just something to consider. Most people I know that convert and try a 0.6mm never bother going back unless you have ULTRA detailed parts. Some go further and go with a 0.8mm nozzle but I feel like you start to give up significant detail at that point. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By bansil: Okay, I'm listening......you seem to be guru and it shows /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/B926BC70-2451-4EC1-A889-3A3C070B9F9D-404.gif Everything is stock settings ,using cura. I would love to print faster.....I don't like to mess with stuff if I don't understand it and the out come. Oh and 17 hrs later I have cab floor done https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/388306/20221119_095856_jpg-2605870.JPG You would need to look into max volumetric flow rate of your hot end, but my Prusa can do 25+ mm^3 of filament per second. That allows me to print this 250g wrench in 5 hours. I actually got it down to four hours but surface quality suffered so I backed it out some. That's a roll of filament every 20 hours. I burn through 1kg/day average. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20221119_104039_jpg-2605888.JPG So look at max flow rates, speeds, and nozzle sizes. I print almost everything at 0.6mm these days. The resolution is 90% as good as a 0.4mm while printing at LEAST twice as fast, usually more. To play with it set your slicer to a 0.6 nozzle, and play with layer heights. Layer heights grow as nozzle size grows which helps make it even faster. Just something to consider. Most people I know that convert and try a 0.6mm never bother going back unless you have ULTRA detailed parts. Some go further and go with a 0.8mm nozzle but I feel like you start to give up significant detail at that point. I print with a 0.6mm nozzle for most things now. 0.4mm nozzle is for the 2A prints. |
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Posted: 11/24/2022 12:17:51 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By memsu: I print with a 0.6mm nozzle for most things now. 0.4mm nozzle is for the 2A prints. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By memsu: Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By bansil: Okay, I'm listening......you seem to be guru and it shows /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/B926BC70-2451-4EC1-A889-3A3C070B9F9D-404.gif Everything is stock settings ,using cura. I would love to print faster.....I don't like to mess with stuff if I don't understand it and the out come. Oh and 17 hrs later I have cab floor done https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/388306/20221119_095856_jpg-2605870.JPG You would need to look into max volumetric flow rate of your hot end, but my Prusa can do 25+ mm^3 of filament per second. That allows me to print this 250g wrench in 5 hours. I actually got it down to four hours but surface quality suffered so I backed it out some. That's a roll of filament every 20 hours. I burn through 1kg/day average. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20221119_104039_jpg-2605888.JPG So look at max flow rates, speeds, and nozzle sizes. I print almost everything at 0.6mm these days. The resolution is 90% as good as a 0.4mm while printing at LEAST twice as fast, usually more. To play with it set your slicer to a 0.6 nozzle, and play with layer heights. Layer heights grow as nozzle size grows which helps make it even faster. Just something to consider. Most people I know that convert and try a 0.6mm never bother going back unless you have ULTRA detailed parts. Some go further and go with a 0.8mm nozzle but I feel like you start to give up significant detail at that point. I print with a 0.6mm nozzle for most things now. 0.4mm nozzle is for the 2A prints. How is .6mm for things like articulated toys? |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 11/25/2022 1:19:36 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By davewvu86: How is .6mm for things like articulated toys? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By davewvu86: Originally Posted By memsu: Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By bansil: Okay, I'm listening......you seem to be guru and it shows /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/B926BC70-2451-4EC1-A889-3A3C070B9F9D-404.gif Everything is stock settings ,using cura. I would love to print faster.....I don't like to mess with stuff if I don't understand it and the out come. Oh and 17 hrs later I have cab floor done https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/388306/20221119_095856_jpg-2605870.JPG You would need to look into max volumetric flow rate of your hot end, but my Prusa can do 25+ mm^3 of filament per second. That allows me to print this 250g wrench in 5 hours. I actually got it down to four hours but surface quality suffered so I backed it out some. That's a roll of filament every 20 hours. I burn through 1kg/day average. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20221119_104039_jpg-2605888.JPG So look at max flow rates, speeds, and nozzle sizes. I print almost everything at 0.6mm these days. The resolution is 90% as good as a 0.4mm while printing at LEAST twice as fast, usually more. To play with it set your slicer to a 0.6 nozzle, and play with layer heights. Layer heights grow as nozzle size grows which helps make it even faster. Just something to consider. Most people I know that convert and try a 0.6mm never bother going back unless you have ULTRA detailed parts. Some go further and go with a 0.8mm nozzle but I feel like you start to give up significant detail at that point. I print with a 0.6mm nozzle for most things now. 0.4mm nozzle is for the 2A prints. How is .6mm for things like articulated toys? Never printed those, I'd say it could be done, just have to do a trial. You can print them in 1/2 the time vs 0.4mm nozzle. |
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Posted: 11/25/2022 4:59:38 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By davewvu86: How is .6mm for things like articulated toys? I got some Inland Bone White to do a dragon skeleton for my niece for Christmas, I'll let you know. |
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Posted: 11/25/2022 7:48:14 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Roland-G23: I got some Inland Bone White to do a dragon skeleton for my niece for Christmas, I'll let you know. please do, I havent had time to mess with it. |
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Posted: 11/25/2022 7:58:26 PM EDT
[#44]
Originally Posted By Roland-G23: I got some Inland Bone White to do a dragon skeleton for my niece for Christmas, I'll let you know. Originally Posted By bansil: please do, I havent had time to mess with it. Do you mean the "Flexi" articulated animals or something else? I've made a few dozen of those. Works fine. I also have this neat articulated snake that has a Lego back. That works great too. |
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Posted: 11/25/2022 9:58:19 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryOriginally Posted By itchytrigger: Originally Posted By Roland-G23: STL? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4851061 I'm printing the last part for one at 75% scale for my desk at work. Those supports tho 
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Posted: 11/26/2022 1:05:44 AM EDT
[#46]
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Posted: 11/26/2022 1:13:54 PM EDT
[#47]
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WI, USA
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Posted: 11/26/2022 4:35:52 PM EDT
[#48]
Finishing up another NT79 receiver.
I noticed it lifted a little on the stock end, I'm hoping it isn't bad. The room I'm printing in is cold and I'm pretty sure it is causing the lifting on long prints. I was able to print all the barrel parts no problem but I think there is just too much cooling time between layers on the receiver. I do have an enclosure en route, and this print doesn't appear to be *too* bad, I'm hoping it is useable, otherwise I'll have to print a 3rd one. First one, I tried a different orientation which failed and was too far out of spec. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 11/27/2022 9:06:21 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tesadorn: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/339014/20221125_234846_jpg-2614085.JPGAlmost done.. Is this from our Teutonic slingshot enthusiast? Have any more info to share? Looks great! |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 11/28/2022 3:40:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheRX7Project]
[#50]
3x glock mag followers and the base plate keeper thingies, and now I'm printing some heart design thing for my wife.
My enclosure should be here tomorrow, then I'm going to print a pistol stand as a test and probably another attempt at the NT79 receiver. This last one I made isn't bad but it warped/lifted a little because this room is cold, so I'm afraid the holes won't line up right. |
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