What did you print today? (Page 138 of 140)
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Done. Turned out pretty good. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/16744_jpg-3807621.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/16746_jpg-3807622.JPG Now, wire it up so that it can be one large charger. 
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Now, wire it up so that it can be one large charger.  Back when my tools were teal (I'm talking 2007, when LXT came out), I had designed a custom four port charger in Solidworks that actually fit four chargers' main boards and battery connectors in it, and had a single power bus bar config that could simultaneously charge four batteries. It was just too large to ever print and 3D printers back then were insanely, insanely expensive. Of course now simultaneous chargers are a thing, but in 2007 it was actually a novel idea.  I probably still have the file somewhere...I need to look. ETA Found it.  Attached File |
Easily irritated engineer of odd things
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Originally Posted By Dolor: I think I"m going to look for a used Bambu labs on market place. I had a prusa like 9 years ago but spent so much time fiddling with the actual printing, I wanted to spend more time designing. Idk maybe I'll give it another shot. Bambu, generally, is the most "appliance" like in that you push go and get stuff. Still not microwave simple and trouble free, but probably the closest, followed closely by Prusa. |
Once you realize that all power comes from the credible threat of the use of deadly force, and the gov't hates you, most things become easy to understand..
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A plenum for a 26cm x 26cm hepa filter. It is a slip fit for a flange screwed over the h2d exhaust port. Attached File the filter is an amazon vines freebie |
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Originally Posted By VacaDuck: Got the drawer base finished. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/102931/3694-3808160.jpg Great setup  All I did today was an ink pen holder lol Tomorrow I’ll be designing clips to hold a sprayer hose on my tractor Attached File |
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First part to test fit done in PETG I will have to do some redesigning on it once I make sure it fits the bucket arm and sprayer hose correctly. I put vertical holes in it to hold it in place with zip ties so I printed it standing up The final part will be done in ASA so I’ll do it laying down. Looks like ass but it’s just a quick sample I drew up. I also forgot to incorporate a relief for the seam weld on top of the arm. Attached File Attached File |
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I still want to pick up a Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro but the ender still works and makes good prints. It's just very, very slow. Currently printing a 5rnd 12GA sleeve to leave in my nightstand as an extra few rounds to grab and toss in my pocket for the bedroom shotgun. |
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Attached File Printing a scooter board for my daughter. Had limited green so Im printing infill in black. Pretty handy trick.  Also had my first real issue with the H2D. I have it auto calculate K factor every print and it got it way, way wrong. Wonder if maybe a partial clog or something threw it off, caused it to be off enough that it wasnt properly extruding the first few layers and the overhangs didnt adhere. Ill have to look into this more. It is a 60 degree overhang with a 0.6 nozzle on 0.3 layer height so should have been fine. I turned the speed down and it helped it quite a bit. But still not ideal. Also had a tangled spool overnight leading to a cooling line. This is my fifth or sixth tangle on Numakers filament so Im done ordering from them. |
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Test fit ok. I’ll tweak it today and print the real ones tonight Attached File Working parts printing now. I so hope this comes out good. Damn hose is a pain in the ass trying to hold it from drooping down while driving and spraying Attached File |
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Attached File Attached File Dammit |
The hardest part about a zombie apocalypse will be pretending I'm not excited.
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Originally Posted By thezentree: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/142455/IMG_1926_jpeg-3809707.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/142455/IMG_1927_jpeg-3809708.JPG Dammit Why is it shaped like a football? |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By thezentree: It's the Jesse James edition The iphone camera distorts it, and the cutaway plane is at an angle to the bore axis, so it makes it look ovaled Originally Posted By D_Man: It's printed at a angle up off the bed, the object is cylindrical externally but the tilt to the model makes the layers oval shaped. Ah. Understood. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Attached File |
The hardest part about a zombie apocalypse will be pretending I'm not excited.
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Originally Posted By thezentree: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/142455/IMG_1926_jpeg-3809707.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/142455/IMG_1927_jpeg-3809708.JPG Dammit I would address the gaps in the perimeters. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I would address the gaps in the perimeters. How fix? I can crank flow up (it's at 0.98 now based on flow calibration) but I'm not sure how to address it otherwise |
The hardest part about a zombie apocalypse will be pretending I'm not excited.
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Originally Posted By thezentree: I did a PA cal too, but I'll take another stab at it as well as flow. Wall generation is set to Arachne Apparently gap fill isn't checked by default, which is dumb. I'd do the herringbone PA test from Orca, and then pay close attention to how the slicer preview looks too just to make sure it's not an incorrect print setting. |
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Re-worked the design for a base frame for an exhaust filter for the H2d. The new version uses 20x3mm magnets for retension & 2.5mm screws that serve as index pins for the attachment points intended for M3 self tapping screws. Supports were used for the recessed magnet positions. The frame was printed in ASA and I specified HIPS for the 0mm Z offset support interface. This is my first try using HIPS as an ASA support interface. I had the ASA in the AMS-HT (left nozzle) and the HIPS in the AMS 2 Pro (right nozzle) It actually worked out very nicely. I removed the first couple of positions with an awl point, the support came our first, then the interface layer. On the last two, I found that a knife tip used to wedge the support sideways actually popped off the support & the interface layer as one part. Awl removal Attached File Knife tip removal Attached File The supported surface Attached File |
Easily irritated engineer of odd things
Joined:
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MN, USA
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Originally Posted By thezentree: How fix? I can crank flow up (it's at 0.98 now based on flow calibration) but I'm not sure how to address it otherwise Originally Posted By thezentree: Originally Posted By Blob: I would address the gaps in the perimeters. How fix? I can crank flow up (it's at 0.98 now based on flow calibration) but I'm not sure how to address it otherwise |
Once you realize that all power comes from the credible threat of the use of deadly force, and the gov't hates you, most things become easy to understand..
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What the assembly looked like with magnets & index pins. (blue painters tape as a shim for tight slip fit) Attached File . mounted at the machine back (not much room to get a pic ...) Attached File The far side goes over to just shy of the poop slot |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I'd do the herringbone PA test from Orca, and then pay close attention to how the slicer preview looks too just to make sure it's not an incorrect print setting. Originally Posted By Blob: I'd do the herringbone PA test from Orca, and then pay close attention to how the slicer preview looks too just to make sure it's not an incorrect print setting. Might actually be a slicer thing. There's a decent amount of this: Attached File What line width settings do y'all use for 0.6mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height? This is 0.62mm, which seems kinda narrow. Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: May need to just go slower. Speed isn't good for engineering prints. Everything is 30mm/s for this print. |
The hardest part about a zombie apocalypse will be pretending I'm not excited.
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Originally Posted By thezentree: Might actually be a slicer thing. There's a decent amount of this: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/142455/Screenshot_2026-08-11_204313_png-3809987.JPG What line width settings do y'all use for 0.6mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height? This is 0.62mm, which seems kinda narrow. Everything is 30mm/s for this print. I'm using 0.65 and 0.2 layer height. Works well for me. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I'm using 0.65 and 0.2 layer height. Works well for me. This is what I use as well. I pretty much always use 0.05 over nozzle diameter. 0.2 is a great layer height too, good mix of strength, speed, and detail. Of course you can modify that or even do variable as needed. |
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How can I get a better surface on sides with supports? I used organic tree here. Attached File Rest of the part came out decent. ASA Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: How can I get a better surface on sides with supports? I used organic tree here. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7123_jpeg-3810004.JPG Rest of the part came out decent. ASA https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7124_jpeg-3810006.JPG Smaller support distance. Or better yet use an interface material and make it come out damn near flawless. You can even iron the support interface now. This is quick and crude and you can do much better than this, but this is basically as clean as a normal top surface with literally zero tuning. Just used stock settings on completely uncalibrated filament as this was just a prototype. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Smaller support distance. Or better yet use an interface material and make it come out damn near flawless. You can even iron the support interface now. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: How can I get a better surface on sides with supports? I used organic tree here. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7123_jpeg-3810004.JPG Rest of the part came out decent. ASA https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7124_jpeg-3810006.JPG Smaller support distance. Or better yet use an interface material and make it come out damn near flawless. You can even iron the support interface now. I can only run a single spool at a time( for now lol) I will try smaller support distance now. |
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: How can I get a better surface on sides with supports? I used organic tree here. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7123_jpeg-3810004.JPG Rest of the part came out decent. ASA https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7124_jpeg-3810006.JPG Use an incompatible material with a 0 support interface gap. With a standard 0.2 interface gap there will be no squish in order to allow the supports to be able to separate. Organic or snug supports makes no difference here if they are both using the same interface gap and pattern. FWIW that's about the same quality I get with ABS. I don't really worry about it. |
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: I can only run a single spool at a time( for now lol) I will try smaller support distance now. You can pause the print and color the support interface with sharpie (using a 0 gap) to act as a release agent but it's probably going to cause issues with the ASA when you release all the heat from the chamber. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: You can pause the print and color the support interface with sharpie (using a 0 gap) to act as a release agent but it's probably going to cause issues with the ASA when you release all the heat from the chamber. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: I can only run a single spool at a time( for now lol) I will try smaller support distance now. You can pause the print and color the support interface with sharpie (using a 0 gap) to act as a release agent but it's probably going to cause issues with the ASA when you release all the heat from the chamber. Interesting. Kinda like using whiteout in a Damascus box lol I’m a cnc programmer by trade. Subtractive manufacturing is all I know. This additive stuff is a whole different world for me. |
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: I can only run a single spool at a time( for now lol) I will try smaller support distance now. You can set up a color swap manually in most slicers. Color swap it to an incompatible material (PETG works, as does HIPS) make sure you are GOOD and flushed, depending on nozzle and melt zone size, probably 800-1000mm3 worth, then resume, and remember to swap it back, purging the same amount. There is a purge matrix setting in OS, PS, and BBS, probably others too. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: You can set up a color swap manually in most slicers. Color swap it to an incompatible material (PETG works, as does HIPS) make sure you are GOOD and flushed, depending on nozzle and melt zone size, probably 800-1000mm3 worth, then resume, and remember to swap it back, purging the same amount. There is a purge matrix setting in OS, PS, and BBS, probably others too. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: I can only run a single spool at a time( for now lol) I will try smaller support distance now. You can set up a color swap manually in most slicers. Color swap it to an incompatible material (PETG works, as does HIPS) make sure you are GOOD and flushed, depending on nozzle and melt zone size, probably 800-1000mm3 worth, then resume, and remember to swap it back, purging the same amount. There is a purge matrix setting in OS, PS, and BBS, probably others too. Thanks That sounds interesting. I’m using BBS and running a P1S I will get the AMS very soon. As in order it this week soon |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: This is what I use as well. I pretty much always use 0.05 over nozzle diameter. 0.2 is a great layer height too, good mix of strength, speed, and detail. Of course you can modify that or even do variable as needed. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By Blob: I'm using 0.65 and 0.2 layer height. Works well for me. This is what I use as well. I pretty much always use 0.05 over nozzle diameter. 0.2 is a great layer height too, good mix of strength, speed, and detail. Of course you can modify that or even do variable as needed. I’m dumb, mines 0.2mm too. Posted more here so I don’t clutter this thread up any more https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Filament-Calibration-Guide-New-Filament-Don-t-skip-this-/194-2836575/?r=-1&page=1&#i117395868 |
The hardest part about a zombie apocalypse will be pretending I'm not excited.
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Failed with a little over an hour to go. Broke free of the plate. Need to add some external supports to the print. All a part of the learning process.  |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
 Printed this out today.... but it has taken a rather large number of prints and programing to get to this point. Its a chassis kit for rimfire bolt actions I have been working on. It also took several printers to make it in under a day. Still needs work but getting closer. |
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: I like it https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7126_jpeg-3810542.JPG |
01010111 | 57 | 127 | LXXXVII
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Originally Posted By VacaDuck: Base is finished, now starting the drawers. Once the drawers are printed, I will get the base frame glued up. This is 3 plates over 55 hours. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/102931/3687-3806500.jpg I love these. I printed an AMS riser with drawers for my P2S in a similar style. It's super useful and looks halfway decent too. Attached File I should do a base like yours now with drawers large enough to hold the accessory/tool box I printed a while back. Attached File Attached File |
The road to Hell is paved with presidential candidates.
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Originally Posted By cgrant26: I love these. I printed an AMS riser with drawers for my P2S in a similar style. It's super useful and looks halfway decent too. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/203945/signal-2026-08-14-07-11-27-232_004_jpg-3811224.JPG I should do a base like yours now with drawers large enough to hold the accessory/tool box I printed a while back. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/203945/signal-2026-08-14-07-11-27-232_003_jpg-3811225.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/203945/signal-2026-08-14-07-11-27-232_002_jpg-3811226.JPG Length on the long drawer is 13.75" Depth is 2.5" |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
