What did you print today? (Page 137 of 140)
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Ive been printing duckies. Bunches of them. Had the idea to have a duck hunt game with different ducks worth different points. I colored the mallard and my ten year old colored the redhead in the slicer. Mallard was six colors, redhead we got away with four. Others are three. These things are tiny, about 1cm long. Attached File |
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Designed this oil fill jug. I hate having to measure out oil when I change oil. This acts as a measuring cup and filler at the same time. There is a fill line built into the model to mark 4.5 qts, which is the amount of oil the Sienna takes. Pour it in, then pour it into the engine oil fill port. Designed in such a way that it is drip free, and also, avoids that stupid oil-running-down-the-measuring-cup phenomenon since the pour point will be lower than the spout when tilted.  Attached File |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Designed this oil fill jug. I hate having to measure out oil when I change oil. This acts as a measuring cup and filler at the same time. There is a fill line built into the model to mark 4.5 qts, which is the amount of oil the Sienna takes. Pour it in, then pour it into the engine oil fill port. Designed in such a way that it is drip free, and also, avoids that stupid oil-running-down-the-measuring-cup phenomenon since the pour point will be lower than the spout when tilted. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/Screenshot_2026-07-24_154218_png-3800397.JPG |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Originally Posted By Saker13: I need this! Thinking I'll make a print-optimized design with the different fill weights, with zig-zag graduation (triangle graduation marks) - points of the vertex are 3.0, 3.2, 3.4, etc, and the troughs are 3.1, 3.3, etc. It takes forever to calculate proper fill height though as I have internal structures to keep things from getting too flimsy. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Thinking I'll make a print-optimized design with the different fill weights, with zig-zag graduation (triangle graduation marks) - points of the vertex are 3.0, 3.2, 3.4, etc, and the troughs are 3.1, 3.3, etc. It takes forever to calculate proper fill height though as I have internal structures to keep things from getting too flimsy. My 2026 Camry takes 4.5q and I'll be using a mix of the "free" dealer changes and diy changes to keep with 5k/6m intervals. Dumping 1/2q from a 5q jug isn't that difficult. |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Originally Posted By Saker13:I need this! Originally Posted By Saker13: Originally Posted By -Obsessed-:Designed this oil fill jug. I hate having to measure out oil when I change oil. This acts as a measuring cup and filler at the same time. There is a fill line built into the model to mark 4.5 qts, which is the amount of oil the Sienna takes. Pour it in, then pour it into the engine oil fill port. Designed in such a way that it is drip free, and also, avoids that stupid oil-running-down-the-measuring-cup phenomenon since the pour point will be lower than the spout when tilted. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/Screenshot_2026-07-24_154218_png-3800397.JPG I was thinking the same thing. ETA: 4.5q is good for me. :) |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Hah well this one is 4.5 so Ill send the STL once I make a few tweaks. This is a rough proof of concept. My internal baffling to ensure rigidity needs optimizing. |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Fourth try at printing a pair of sunglasses frames. Attached File I tried using the 3mf as it was on makerworld and it failed at the nose piece because there was no support. Second try, I painted on supports where it failed and I tried using pla as the support interface (I'm trying to make these in petg) and the bottom of one side didn't stick to the support interface enough to print on it, then printed spaghetti until it detected it. Third try was the same but no pla interface and it printed higher up but still broke off of the support and stopped. This try I just downloaded the stl then positioned it until it auto generated support where it had failed before and again, it looks like it broke away from the support when the sides of the frames got tall and skinny. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Done, I guess. I need to print one now. Contemplating printing one two color. I bet it takes forever.  0.1 qt graduations from 1 qt to 5 qts. Big lines are whole quarts, medium line for 0.2 qts increments, smallest are the 0.1 qt increments. Attached File Took a bit of time getting the graduation mark heights right, given the lines themselves, the numbers, and the internal support structure throws off a simple calculation, so I calculated it with individual fill volume solids in OS. 3 qt fill solid as an example. This is the space the 3qt liquid would occupy. Attached File |
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See you guys tomorrow night. I hope. Attached File Definitely my longest print on the H2D so far. This is even with a 0.6mm nozzle, but I'm slicing thin, extra squish, and nice and slow with lots of heat. |
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Played around with a re-designed in-spool desiccant holder. I've broken at least three that I printed from a download when dropped while loaded. That design maximized print speed & minimized material, ending up with very thin walls on a "basket weave" style design, with very little cross section where the weave crossed a previous row. I liked the idea of printing with a continuous motion instead of traveling between "posts", so I did my own "basket weave" style with a more robust structure. Since I would be using a circular pattern, I set up my structure with circles & radii. Attached File I bult left & right cells on two "rows", 10 degrees per cell. 36 cells are a complete circle. Attached File Attached File Duplicate that with a rectangular pattern to get the height. Attached File Add a cylindrical section & some threads to finish up Attached File Two diameters, 50mm & 55mm. Attached File Added in disc shaped modifiers for the bottoms & caps prior to slicing so the centers print as 40% infill rectilinear grids. |
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Well. It is watertight. It has that going for it, but thats about it. The black PETG was soaked. It was in my AMS for months and the desiccant is green. Whoops. Got excited. I will try a single color print to see how well it does there and go from there. May try one out of ABS too, not sure. Oil shouldnt damage ABS too bad as normalish temps. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Well. It is watertight. It has that going for it, but thats about it. The black PETG was soaked. It was in my AMS for months and the desiccant is green. Whoops. Got excited. I will try a single color print to see how well it does there and go from there. May try one out of ABS too, not sure. Oil shouldnt damage ABS too bad as normalish temps. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/16584_jpg-3802176.JPG It works, right? |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Printed out a G17 frame as a trial run. Used the base file with no changes, other than color, since it did it through the Bambu Handy app. Going to use it as a baseline for fine tuning the print settings. Used Sunlu PLA+ 2.0. Blue color to designate it as a 'dummy frame' not to be assembled. 
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"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Modular screwdriver rack system is almost done. Slots are 1/2" apart. Name plates and inserts lock into place via a sliding locking bar. 6.35mm locking distance. Slide the bar over, all slots lock, slide it the other way, they all unlock. That way it doesnt inadvertently fall apart on you during use. Uses Sy's Peglock mount. Also you can ignore the crap finish of the proof of concept. I did Max Flow testing at thr same time. 42mm3/s is a wee high it turns out. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By nikdfish: Played around with a re-designed in-spool desiccant holder. I've broken at least three that I printed from a download when dropped while loaded. That design maximized print speed & minimized material, ending up with very thin walls on a "basket weave" style design, with very little cross section where the weave crossed a previous row. I liked the idea of printing with a continuous motion instead of traveling between "posts", so I did my own "basket weave" style with a more robust structure. Since I would be using a circular pattern, I set up my structure with circles & radii. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/desiccant_insert_heavy_55mm_v6_d_png-3801984.JPG I bult left & right cells on two "rows", 10 degrees per cell. 36 cells are a complete circle. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/desiccant_insert_heavy_55mm_v6_b_png-3801989.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/desiccant_insert_heavy_55mm_v6_e_png-3801996.JPG Duplicate that with a rectangular pattern to get the height. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/desiccant_insert_heavy_55mm_v6__g_png-3801997.JPG Add a cylindrical section & some threads to finish up https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/desiccant_insert_heavy_55mm_v6__a_jpg-3801998.JPG Two diameters, 50mm & 55mm. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20260727_192101697_1__jpg-3802002.JPG Added in disc shaped modifiers for the bottoms & caps prior to slicing so the centers print as 40% infill rectilinear grids. I use those things too and agree most of the designs available are too flimsy. I just cracked one when I grabbed it too hard. Your design looks great, going to make them available to us peons? |
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Originally Posted By nikdfish: Played around with a re-designed in-spool desiccant holder. I've broken at least three that I printed from a download when dropped while loaded. That design maximized print speed & minimized material, ending up with very thin walls on a "basket weave" style design, with very little cross section where the weave crossed a previous row. I liked the idea of printing with a continuous motion instead of traveling between "posts", so I did my own "basket weave" style with a more robust structure. Since I would be using a circular pattern, I set up my structure with circles & radii. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/desiccant_insert_heavy_55mm_v6_d_png-3801984.JPG I bult left & right cells on two "rows", 10 degrees per cell. 36 cells are a complete circle. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/desiccant_insert_heavy_55mm_v6_b_png-3801989.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/desiccant_insert_heavy_55mm_v6_e_png-3801996.JPG Duplicate that with a rectangular pattern to get the height. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/desiccant_insert_heavy_55mm_v6__g_png-3801997.JPG Add a cylindrical section & some threads to finish up https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/desiccant_insert_heavy_55mm_v6__a_jpg-3801998.JPG Two diameters, 50mm & 55mm. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20260727_192101697_1__jpg-3802002.JPG Added in disc shaped modifiers for the bottoms & caps prior to slicing so the centers print as 40% infill rectilinear grids. I've dropped my design more times than I can count. Never broke one. 
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So far, just a caliper hanger for my pegboard. Currently printing plate one of a base with drawers for my P2S. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Got a new range and within three days the wife managed to bump into the knob and leave a burner on, so I designed these safeties that prevent the knobs from being depressed and turned. Two little fingers on the bottom help to lift them up and off. Printed from ABS Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Got a new range and within three days the wife managed to bump into the knob and leave a burner on, so I designed these safeties that prevent the knobs from being depressed and turned. Two little fingers on the bottom help to lift them up and off. Printed from ABS https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000021127_jpg-3805119.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000021128_jpg-3805120.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000021129_jpg-3805121.JPG That's a great idea. The burner knobs in my RV are like that and too easily bumped on. There is no auto-lite so you end up filling the camper with propane gas. |
Easily irritated engineer of odd things
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first prototype (no bolt holes yet) for a flat mount for a Starlink Mini. Will mount it to the truck topper for when we are off in the arrowhead. Quick and dirty; 0.8HF nozzle, 0.4mm layers.
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Once you realize that all power comes from the credible threat of the use of deadly force, and the gov't hates you, most things become easy to understand..
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4 bay M18 battery holder. 16" long, perfectly flat result with zero brim with ABS. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Messing around with some ASA. I made a knife holder with AD Fusion. Preheated P1S to 100 degrees C and still had warping at the corners but isn’t really all that noticeable. But not sure what caused the seem at the bottom. It’s at the level where the floor and wall intersect. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: Messing around with some ASA. I made a knife holder with AD Fusion. Preheated P1S to 100 degrees C and still had warping at the corners but isn’t really all that noticeable. But not sure what caused the seem at the bottom. It’s at the level where the floor and wall intersect. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7073_jpeg-3805395.JPG It's called a shrink line and it's caused by the layers cooling at different rates  The Most Misdiagnosed Print Error — Fix ALL Shrink & Wall Lines |
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: Messing around with some ASA. I made a knife holder with AD Fusion. Preheated P1S to 100 degrees C and still had warping at the corners but isn’t really all that noticeable. But not sure what caused the seem at the bottom. It’s at the level where the floor and wall intersect. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7073_jpeg-3805395.JPG The bed temp.of 100C isnt as important as the chamber temp being as high as you can muster. Some folks insulate their enclosure. Others get Panda Breath which is a 3rd party chamber heater. Worth the investment if you print a decent amount of ASA or ABS. There are alternative tricks though. Like print a 2mm slab of PETG and then print the ABS or ASA on top of it. But ultimately the true solution vs a band aid is just a heated enclosure. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: I use those things too and agree most of the designs available are too flimsy. I just cracked one when I grabbed it too hard. Your design looks great, going to make them available to us peons? I hadn't put it on printables at the time (so many out there already), but went ahead & did it today. https://www.printables.com/model/1798945-yet-another-spool-core-desiccant-holder |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: The bed temp.of 100C isnt as important as the chamber temp being as high as you can muster. Some folks insulate their enclosure. Others get Panda Breath which is a 3rd party chamber heater. Worth the investment if you print a decent amount of ASA or ABS. There are alternative tricks though. Like print a 2mm slab of PETG and then print the ABS or ASA on top of it. But ultimately the true solution vs a band aid is just a heated enclosure. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: Messing around with some ASA. I made a knife holder with AD Fusion. Preheated P1S to 100 degrees C and still had warping at the corners but isn’t really all that noticeable. But not sure what caused the seem at the bottom. It’s at the level where the floor and wall intersect. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7073_jpeg-3805395.JPG The bed temp.of 100C isnt as important as the chamber temp being as high as you can muster. Some folks insulate their enclosure. Others get Panda Breath which is a 3rd party chamber heater. Worth the investment if you print a decent amount of ASA or ABS. There are alternative tricks though. Like print a 2mm slab of PETG and then print the ABS or ASA on top of it. But ultimately the true solution vs a band aid is just a heated enclosure. Thanks. I will look into a heater. |
| First long print over night. Plate 1 out of 7 for a drawer base for my P2S. 15 hours and prints came out great. Working on plate 2 now. Still have 15 hours to go on this one. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Printing a set of dimple dies for a friend that owns an auto-body shop. Printed the punch out of pla and surprisingly it held up. The guy I got the files from said he's been using them for a long time and they are holding up.  |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: Messing around with some ASA. I made a knife holder with AD Fusion. Preheated P1S to 100 degrees C and still had warping at the corners but isn't really all that noticeable. But not sure what caused the seem at the bottom. It's at the level where the floor and wall intersect. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7073_jpeg-3805395.JPG Break up the straight walls with a cut out so you can get your fingers in there. Put 3 to 5 mm radius corners on it. If not that, use mouse ears in the slicer. Consider making a waffle pattern on the bottom of the pockets. Anything that breaks the long lines up will help keep it from curling. |
Easily irritated engineer of odd things
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MN, USA
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: Messing around with some ASA. I made a knife holder with AD Fusion. Preheated P1S to 100 degrees C and still had warping at the corners but isn't really all that noticeable. But not sure what caused the seem at the bottom. It's at the level where the floor and wall intersect. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7073_jpeg-3805395.JPG  When that huge slab shrinks, it won't take the wall with it, which warps up the wall. Of course, I also print at a 50c chamber temp and 110 bed and use nanopolymer adhesive. |
Once you realize that all power comes from the credible threat of the use of deadly force, and the gov't hates you, most things become easy to understand..
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Tinkered with the model last night and put it to print with better results this morning. I put a fillet radius in all internal corners, added finger grooves to easily grab the knife of choice. Sealed off top vent hole and rear filament chute. Added a brim and a skirt (not sure if it was necessary, but I’m still learning the slicer). No raised corners and seem is almost all gone. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
| Started plate 3 of the drawer base. This is the long one. 24 hours and change. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
Easily irritated engineer of odd things
Joined:
Jul 2008
Posts:
31999
EE: 100% (5)
MN, USA
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: Tinkered with the model last night and put it to print with better results this morning. I put a fillet radius in all internal corners, added finger grooves to easily grab the knife of choice. Sealed off top vent hole and rear filament chute. Added a brim and a skirt (not sure if it was necessary, but I'm still learning the slicer). No raised corners and seem is almost all gone. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7079_jpeg-3805906.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7085_jpeg-3805907.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/249029/IMG_7080_jpeg-3805908.JPG |
Once you realize that all power comes from the credible threat of the use of deadly force, and the gov't hates you, most things become easy to understand..
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Originally Posted By nikdfish: I hadn't put it on printables at the time (so many out there already), but went ahead & did it today. https://www.printables.com/model/1798945-yet-another-spool-core-desiccant-holder Nice of you, thanks. I haven't seen Obesessed's. I like all his other stuff, recommend it to anyone who asks. |
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Base is finished, now starting the drawers. Once the drawers are printed, I will get the base frame glued up. This is 3 plates over 55 hours. 
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"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Starting this M12 battery holder. 770g in 12 hours. Attached File |
Easily irritated engineer of odd things
Joined:
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EE: 100% (5)
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Just starting an 18 hour print on my Voron. Will be using SirayaTech PET-CF. It is a one piece Starlink Mini mount for my truck topper. Takes up the entire bed on my 350mm voron 2.4! So nice that Starlink provides an official model of the Mini for mods/mounts.
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Once you realize that all power comes from the credible threat of the use of deadly force, and the gov't hates you, most things become easy to understand..
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Finally finished printing all the parts for the P2S stand with drawers. Total print time was 100 hours between all the plates. Now I just have to get it assembled. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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HaHa! I am a designer now! Forget what program I tried to use before, but it was a struggle. Maybe Fusion? I never committed to it, and made no progress. Bought a new to me Honda Ridgeline, has a little dash insert great for my wallet, but no real space for a phone mount. Found a pullout tray design for the insert that seemed cool, but not something I needed, and then my wallet does not fit. Since I do not know how to CAD, I imported the file into Tinkercad, watched a 2 minute video, and modified the design using negative parts to cut it in half, then added some bizarre shapes for strength, then printed it and a 17mm ball mount from Makerworld. Attached File The whole thing sucks, is joined with screws, but works so far! Attached File I am not uploading to Makerworld anytime soon, but I could! |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: Working on making an MP5 foregrip that takes scout lights and tape switches. This is a quick test fit/prototype version from PETG. At this point I think I've replaced every plastic part on my MP5 with a printed part. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/157876/1000030275-3807635.png This is siiiiickkkkk. I love it |