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Posted: 3/27/2021 11:47:20 AM EDT
[#1]
Got a new batch started yesterday. They're just out of my ghetto sub-zero treatment and getting ready to go into the first temper.
These are all AEB-L.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/30/2021 12:31:05 AM EDT
[#2]
This one is finally actually done and ready to go.
I've had a different sheath finished for it for a while, but it just didn't seem right the more I looked at it, so I made a beefier one that fits a bit better.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/30/2021 12:33:13 AM EDT
[#3]
nice
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Posted: 4/1/2021 9:23:35 PM EDT
[#4]
Getting liners glued to scales on two of these guys today. I was hoping to have these glued up tonight, handles shaped and edges sharpened tomorrow, then delivered Saturday, but I'm not sure if I'll make it. I might have to pull a late one tomorrow. Lol
 Attached File |
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Posted: 4/5/2021 11:09:57 PM EDT
[#5]
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Posted: 4/5/2021 11:50:59 PM EDT
[#6]
Your mark looks strong.
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Posted: 4/6/2021 12:41:27 AM EDT
[#7]
Thanks. The new stencils and electrolyte made a huge difference in the quality and consistency of my mark.
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Posted: 4/8/2021 8:25:56 PM EDT
[#8]
After seeing how rigid the other kitchen knife was, i wanted to try grinding a distal taper into this one since it's thicker. (.100" vs .082" on the first one). I saw Don Nguyen do it this way on his youtube channel, and it made the most sense to me, so i thought I'd give it a shot.
 Attached FileThe idea is to grind the taper in the spine, then grind the primary bevel until the two meet. We'll see how it goes. |
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Posted: 4/8/2021 8:26:54 PM EDT
[#9]
YOU CAN DO IT !!!
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Posted: 4/8/2021 10:06:21 PM EDT
[#10]
Thanks! We're about to find out.
Primary grinds are done, time to start growing them to meet the grinds on the spine.  Attached FileETA:  Attached File Attached FileI need to thin the edge on the back 1/3 or so of the blade, but it's getting close to hand sanding time. |
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Posted: 4/10/2021 1:13:26 AM EDT
[#11]
Note to self (and wic, cause he reads these)
From the conversation in the other thread: "I'm going to try measuring the thickness of the flats, subtracting the thinnest part of the tang, then splitting the difference, then taking a shim that thickness and putting it under the scales while I drill the holes." This works, but don't do this  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/10/2021 8:44:39 AM EDT
[#12]
I’m not understanding why you don’t just clamp it all together and drill straight through. If you shim it, drill it, then remove the shim and flatten the scale material to the tang, doesn’t that mean the hole in the scale will be at a slight angle to the hole in the scale? ie, no longer straight like a pin?
ETA: never mind. Reading in the other thread I think we are talking about the same thing, I just wasn’t catching on to what you were saying. When you say under the scales, you don’t mean between the scale and tang, just a support piece under the scales and tang to keep it level as you drill. I think. |
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Posted: 4/10/2021 10:19:52 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’m not understanding why you don’t just clamp it all together and drill straight through. If you shim it, drill it, then remove the shim and flatten the scale material to the tang, doesn’t that mean the hole in the scale will be at a slight angle to the hole in the scale? ie, no longer straight like a pin? ETA: never mind. Reading in the other thread I think we are talking about the same thing, I just wasn’t catching on to what you were saying. When you say under the scales, you don’t mean between the scale and tang, just a support piece under the scales and tang to keep it level as you drill. I think. Yes, the shim goes between the table on the drill press and the scale. |
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Posted: 4/11/2021 1:26:44 PM EDT
[#14]
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Posted: 4/25/2021 7:06:21 PM EDT
[#15]
I got started on another one of these guys because I managed to grind the heads off of the front corby bolt on the other one while I was shaping the handles. Luckily it was easy to drill out, so I shortened another corby and epoxied it in.
 Attached File Attached FileI tried a little different method for grinding in the distal taper on this one by partially grinding the primary bevel, then grinding the taper from the tip to the handle end vertically on the grinder. It worked pretty well, but I think next time I'm going to try just grinding vertically and treating the distal taper like it was a primary bevel. I think it'll work well, but I've got to think on it a little more. I'll just have to be sure that I pay attention to the edge and spine and not make the blade flat ETA: I missed one. This one happened before the one above.  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/29/2021 10:53:45 PM EDT
[#16]
I want to play with a carbon steel again. Having to go get dry ice to ht the AEB-L sucks if I only want to make one or two knives.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 4/29/2021 11:14:58 PM EDT
[#17]
And you were saying 80crv2 behaves like AEBL, just not stainless?
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Posted: 4/30/2021 1:02:55 AM EDT
[#18]
That's my very amateur hypothesis based on some of the info in "knife engineering". Mostly the very similar toughness measurements between the two.
(I think) the similar toughness should allow me to grind the blades the same thicknesses and sharpen at the same angles and expect them to hold up similarly. I've been looking for edge retention testing of both steels but I haven't found any for 80Crv2. AEB-L has less carbon in it but it has chromium where 80CrV2 doesn't.(I think I read that chromium carbides were harder than cementite (iron carbides) a lot of this stuff is still really difficult for me to understand. Lol It'll be interesting to make two knives as close to identical as I can manage (in different steels)and see how this works out in the real world. |
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Posted: 4/30/2021 9:49:49 PM EDT
[#19]
I hope I don't mess these up. Lol
It's my first set of stabilized wood scales. Any tips while the epoxy on the liners cures?  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/30/2021 9:52:15 PM EDT
[#20]
what kind of wood?
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Posted: 4/30/2021 11:07:44 PM EDT
[#21]
Iirc, it's maple. I believe I got them from @inquisitive_spaniard a while ago
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Posted: 4/30/2021 11:33:39 PM EDT
[#22]
Yup, it’s curly maple. Just make sure you sand it flat. Work it to about 1200 grit or 1500-2k and buff it.
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Posted: 5/1/2021 12:21:18 AM EDT
[#23]
I hit them and the liners on a piece of 60 grit paper on my chunk of granite before I glued them up.
I'm pretty excited to finally use these. I think I've had them for 8-9 months. Lol |
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Posted: 5/1/2021 12:28:32 AM EDT
[#24]
I drew up a new-ish design (modified the utility pattern) and decided to cut a few out. 3/32" 1095 on the left, 1/16" 1084 on the right.
I have a couple of different ideas in mind on how to grind them. I think the 3/32" ones might make a decent EDC or small hunting knife.  Attached File |
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Posted: 5/1/2021 12:33:08 AM EDT
[#25]
Very cool. I ran into a small kitchen knife because I broke one of my full size knives out of frustration. A local friend is buying a house and has said that I have a spot in his new garage. I’m stoked that I can start making again. I’m about to send some red coolibah burl off to K&G and make a bunch of hybrids. Knives look great, dude.
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Posted: 5/1/2021 12:58:26 AM EDT
[#26]
That's awesome that you'll be getting a shop set up again.
Are you going to be making knives too or just handle material? Thanks! |
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Posted: 5/1/2021 1:08:18 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That's awesome that you'll be getting a shop set up again. Are you going to be making knives too or just handle material? Thanks! I had a knife that was 80% done. Needs sanding and scales. I have several blanks that need to be ground. I’ll probably stick to handles for the most part but I’ll make a few blades when I can. I’m slow. 
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Posted: 5/3/2021 8:13:49 PM EDT
[#28]
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Posted: 5/3/2021 8:32:53 PM EDT
[#29]
CF pins?
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Posted: 5/3/2021 9:44:01 PM EDT
[#30]
G10
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Posted: 5/5/2021 12:03:53 AM EDT
[#31]
Update?
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Posted: 5/5/2021 1:02:48 AM EDT
[#32]
 Attached FileGot it glued up tonight. I ended up having to do some work on one side of the tang to get the scale to sit flat, which ended up making me go back down to hand sand the whole side starting at 220 again. It should move pretty quick from here. I also the other of this pattern but in 80CrV2, plus 6(3ea in two thickness and steels) of the new pattern cut, profiled, drilled, normalized, hardened and all tempered once.(started a little on Friday, but mostly Sunday afternoon and last night). Today I got the 6 tempered a second time with a couple of them clamped up to straighten out some warping. |
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Posted: 5/5/2021 9:56:35 PM EDT
[#33]
 Attached FileGot the handle roughed out on the grinder before dinner. I hope to get some sanding done after a walk. |
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Posted: 5/10/2021 7:34:48 PM EDT
[#34]
Hadn't been in here in a while.
Nice stuff DFARM! For me, pulling bevels back to edges is mostly a listening thing. |
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Posted: 5/10/2021 7:43:54 PM EDT
[#35]
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Posted: 5/11/2021 11:28:38 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks! I've been curious what you have been up to. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/78442/KIMG2070_JPG-1937476.JPG Secret squirrel job is pissing me off. Lots of really unpleasant grinding yields not a lot of useful material. And then crap like this happens to that.  But right now it is all prep work for the Run-and-Gun match I admin. |
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Posted: 5/11/2021 12:58:47 PM EDT
[#37]
I need to get out and shoot. It's been since December
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Posted: 5/27/2021 8:47:59 PM EDT
[#38]
I had messed this blade up by grinding the point off center. I was able to salvage some of it by losing about 1/2" from the tip and grinding in a distal taper. This blade was also an oddball because it's .082" stock instead of the .100" or .110" like The others I've made.
I figured this would be a good candidate for a couple of experiments.  Attached FileI also took the edge pretty thin.  Attached FileThis thing is ugly because I made a couple of pretty deep gouges on the first side I started the hollow in, but I think I can get the ugly most of the way out if I decide that I need to. I mostly just want to see if the hollow in the center of the blade makes a big difference. I'm going to go cut some stuff up before I even put a handle on. Lol |
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Posted: 5/27/2021 9:44:02 PM EDT
[#39]
I'm not impressed so far, but I only cut a tomato and about half an onion.
Maybe it'll be more noticable when I get to use it some more. |
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Posted: 5/30/2021 10:27:30 AM EDT
[#40]
I got the s ground knife into a bigger onion yesterday and there is a pretty big difference between it and my last one. I definitely need to build a platen with a big radius though instead of trying to make a big hollow with my 10" wheel.
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Posted: 5/30/2021 10:31:19 AM EDT
[#41]
I had the same experience with my s ground kitchen knife. First time using it, actually felt a bit thick behind the edge, but more I used it, more I appreciated what it was doing. Doesn't feel as thick anymore. Just different to start since I have nothing else like it. So easy to clean, nothing sticks.
Good experiments. |
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Posted: 5/30/2021 10:47:29 AM EDT
[#42]
Check out the 36° platten.
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Posted: 5/30/2021 10:50:16 AM EDT
[#43]
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Posted: 5/30/2021 11:34:35 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I had the same experience with my s ground kitchen knife. First time using it, actually felt a bit thick behind the edge, but more I used it, more I appreciated what it was doing. Doesn't feel as thick anymore. Just different to start since I have nothing else like it. So easy to clean, nothing sticks. Good experiments. This one still sucks cutting cheese. It gets stuck up the full height of the blade. I think there's a difference with the onions because they are more rigid than cheese so they get air under the slices easier than the cheese. I may try taking the hollow thinner and wider to get closer to the edge and spine. |
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Posted: 5/30/2021 11:39:04 AM EDT
[#45]
I'll probably end up building one from plate. It doesn't look too difficult. The one from bill behnke looks beautiful but it's much too short for my grinder and it's pretty expensive for how much I'll probably use it. I asked brodbeck ironworks if they planned on a radius platen and they said no. Seems weird that they wouldn't. I found a video that Salem straub did about s grinds and I'll probably copy his platen.  Compound Grinding Mosaic Chefs |
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Posted: 5/30/2021 11:57:34 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'll probably end up building one from plate. It doesn't look too difficult. The one from bill behnke looks beautiful but it's much too short for my grinder and it's pretty expensive for how much I'll probably use it. I asked brodbeck ironworks if they planned on a radius platen and they said no. Seems weird that they wouldn't. I found a video that Salem straub did about s grinds and I'll probably copy his platen.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2TakFpuLWwQuote HistoryQuoted: I'll probably end up building one from plate. It doesn't look too difficult. The one from bill behnke looks beautiful but it's much too short for my grinder and it's pretty expensive for how much I'll probably use it. I asked brodbeck ironworks if they planned on a radius platen and they said no. Seems weird that they wouldn't. I found a video that Salem straub did about s grinds and I'll probably copy his platen. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2TakFpuLWw*like* I’ll probably invest in one. I like making chef knives more than anything |
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Posted: 5/31/2021 5:27:43 PM EDT
[#47]
I got started on the chef's knife resto-mod project today.
Here's the subject. A 10" Dexter 48910 chef's knife that I got at a swap meet for $15. I almost talked myself out of it but it felt great in the hand and had a lot of interesting features, like a tapered tang, integral bolsters and a distal taper.  Attached FileThis picture is after I scrubbed the whole thing down with hot soapy water and a brush and a scotch Brite pad. The handle was sticky. It was gross ??. I hate unstabilized wood on kitchen knives. Here we can see the rotten food/rust/only god knows what else "liners"  Attached FileI drilled holes in the rivets and popped the scales off  Attached File Attached FileI'm guessing that these knives were forged mostly to shape and then quickly cleaned up a bit in the places that mattered a little more and not in the places that didn't. I think there's still scale on the tang. It could be some kind of weird rust too. I'm not sure what kind of price range these were made to sell in but this one seems like a step or two up from old hickory knives. |
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Posted: 5/31/2021 5:51:43 PM EDT
[#48]
I ended up working on the bolster because it was thicker on one side and the back end where the scales sit against it were uneven. I didn't really want to mess with the metal too much but it bothered me the more I looked at it.
 Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached FileYou can see in the last pic that the front of the bolster is uneven. I'm not going to mess with it. I'm not going for perfect, just better and not gross. Lol |
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Posted: 5/31/2021 5:59:35 PM EDT
[#49]
I think I'm pretty much done with any metal work, aside from maybe hand sanding the blade at 6 or 800 grit to try to get the surface rust off, hopefully without damaging much more of the patina.
I'm torn on trying to save the original scales and making a new set from a non wood material (I'm leaning towards micarta). The biggest reason I want to keep the scales is that the Knife isn't marked anywhere else. If it was marked on the blade I'd not even think about trashing the old scales and making new ones.  Attached File |
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Posted: 6/5/2021 12:42:21 PM EDT
[#50]
I've decided to use some natural micarta with black liners on the 'ol Dexter.
The jade/toxic green scales are for one of my new(ish) pattern paring/utility knives.  Attached File |
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