Posted: 3/16/2013 11:16:33 AM EDT
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I have a samoyan/husky mix, female. She's a great dog, and has not shown much of the husky stubbornness. I make her work for everything she gets, and she is crate trained.
Anyway, when she's meeting new people, even on a leash, all training goes out the door. She yells and screams and runs around them jumps on them, sometimes play nips even. Usually I distract her with treats. I'll take her aside and make her do her tricks and she'll calm down that way. If the person pays any attention to her, it's game on again. What can I do to help this? I would like to be able to take her out more. When I go to take her to petsmart I get stared at like I'm beating her because of the way she screams when she is excited, lol |
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this will go away somewhat with time bu the best way to do it is to put on a pinch collar then to have people give it attention while sitting next to you, as soon as it starts to misbehave they stop attention. treats keep the dog focused on you and not all worked up but you dont want him to think you are rewarding the bad behavior. |
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a year Heh. My dog is much older and still does that for my parents. 
I agree with GlutealCleft in that you need visitors to help you. I think you're on the right track with making him work in these situations. That serves two purposes: keeps the dog away from your guests, and solidifies obedience by him working with distractions. Eventually, and this depends on the dog, you will want to taper treats and mix up the reward frequency so the dog knows he's working because he is expected to, not necessarily because he wants treats. Treats are a nice thing you do for him if he does what you want. |
| Remote shock collar. You'd be very surprised how smart a dog really is. I think I only actually had to shock my dog a few times. Granted before I ever put it on him I turned it up all the way and held it my hand and hit the juice just so I would know exactly what he felt. Doesn't really hurt, but damn sure gets your attention. I would always give voice commands and if not pormptly followed, I would make the collar beep, then if he kept up, then a shock. Like I said I only had to really shock him a few times. Just the warning beep was enough when he got hard headed. |
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Quoted:
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a year Heh. My dog is much older and still does that for my parents.
I agree with GlutealCleft in that you need visitors to help you. I think you're on the right track with making him work in these situations. That serves two purposes: keeps the dog away from your guests, and solidifies obedience by him working with distractions. Eventually, and this depends on the dog, you will want to taper treats and mix up the reward frequency so the dog knows he's working because he is expected to, not necessarily because he wants treats. Treats are a nice thing you do for him if he does what you want. completely agree. +1
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Did you take your dog to any puppy training classes?
I am a firm believer in the pinch and e-collar, but I disagree with the 2 posters who advised them. They are collars meant to be used to correct a dog once it knows a behavior. Talk to some trainers, but do not submit your dog to these devices unless you have spoken with a trainer who knows the appropriate way to use them. In my opinion, they can be the greatest tools in training, but at the same time they are the most abused, and cause more harm than good with most dogs, purely due to people not understanding the proper way to use them. eta: www.leerburg.com has a shitload of information about training tips, also a lot of info about the proper use of training collars. |
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What can I do to help this? I would like to be able to take her out more. When I go to take her to petsmart I get stared at like I'm beating her because of the way she screams when she is excited, lol If it were MY dog - I would take her out even more. The more you get out with her and do and experience things - The better the dog you will have in the end. Call it a 'training experience' if you want.
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With the Northern group dogs they really need alot of socialization to deal with skittishness/excitement. And all kinds of it too. Working with her as above (ignored when not with the program, and lots of praise attention when sitting for greetings) is the way I'd start. If she starts getting antsy and positive reinforcement isn't working (ie treating/praising) it may be necessary to start using negatives to start straightening her out, especially the nipping. Start with a squirt bottle and squirt her when she starts getting fixated and over-excited. Just once. It'll refocus her attention back on you. If that fails, you can up the ante to bitter apple or another oral correction (lemon juice, Phooey, tobasco). If she starts to mouth or get loud, tell her no, ONCE. do not nag. Then begin correcting her each time she escalating as she continues (one squirt. Then two squirts. Then Three squirts.) Eventually she'll stop. If she's unusually stubborn you may need multiple types, as they get used to one (I alternate between Bitter apple and Phooey). As soon as she's calm anddoing the correc tbehavior, even if its just for a second immediately praise her. So it goes...
Excited, screaming etc. "No." Continues screaming Bitter Apple in the mouth. As soon as she stops, usually shaking her head trying to get the taste out, immediately praise. Because she's now not screaming. "Good Dog" If she starts screaming again Bitter apple, two squirts in the mouth. As she stops, immediately praise. "Good Dog" Etc. |