Posted: 12/30/2015 11:14:43 PM EDT
Finally got serious about taking lessons a couple of weeks ago, had guitar properly set up as recommended by instructor, then today, it got knocked off the stand and this happened:
Would I be correct to say this is not fixable, being a high stress area? Or possibly not worth the cost? |
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Gorilla glue and duct tape? That might actually work. It looks like there's a fair amount of gluing surface. Just be sure to moisten one or both sides before applying the glue and LIGHT clamping. ETA: If you're careful, the result might even look OK; not perfect, but OK. |
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That might actually work. It looks like there's a fair amount of gluing surface. Just be sure to moisten one or both sides before applying the glue and LIGHT clamping. ETA: If you're careful, the result might even look OK; not perfect, but OK. Quoted:
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Gorilla glue and duct tape? That might actually work. It looks like there's a fair amount of gluing surface. Just be sure to moisten one or both sides before applying the glue and LIGHT clamping. ETA: If you're careful, the result might even look OK; not perfect, but OK. be careful with Gorilla glue, it has a foaming effect while it sets. |
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No, don't use Gorilla glue. That stuff is overrated and is completely wrong for this repair, it simply isn't strong enough. Get some Titebond, glue the break with it, carefully sit it in place and clamp it so that it doesn't shift while the glue is sitting up. And wipe off the excess that squirts out if the break with a slightly damp cloth before it sits up.
http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Glues_and_Adhesives/Titebond_Wood_Glue.html |
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Quoted: No, don't use Gorilla glue. That stuff is overrated and is completely wrong for this repair, it simply isn't strong enough. Get some Titebond, glue the break with it, carefully sit it in place and clamp it so that it doesn't shift while the glue is sitting up. And wipe off the excess that squirts out if the break with a slightly damp cloth before it sits up. http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Glues_and_Adhesives/Titebond_Wood_Glue.html I have done more critical breaks than that with gorilla glue that have and still are holding up quite well. |
Here's what I did when something similar happened to my strat. I also put a metal brace on the back. Like a quarter inch thick metal with two screws. It's stronger than it was and the only effect is a very fixable bit of high e string buzz when you hit an open note. This was well over 10 years ago and it's still flawless. ETA: Essentially Gorilla Glue and a metal brace. ETA2: Honestly, you could probably just wood glue it and it would be just fine. |
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I have done more critical breaks than that with gorilla glue that have and still are holding up quite well. Quoted:
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No, don't use Gorilla glue. That stuff is overrated and is completely wrong for this repair, it simply isn't strong enough. Get some Titebond, glue the break with it, carefully sit it in place and clamp it so that it doesn't shift while the glue is sitting up. And wipe off the excess that squirts out if the break with a slightly damp cloth before it sits up. http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Glues_and_Adhesives/Titebond_Wood_Glue.html I have done more critical breaks than that with gorilla glue that have and still are holding up quite well. Fine and dandy. I just don't trust Gorilla glue, I've had it not hold and have heard/read about it not holding. That's why I don't recommend it. And if you take something like that to a luthier, they're going to use Titebond or a similar quality wood glue. |
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Fine and dandy. I just don't trust Gorilla glue, I've had it not hold and have heard/read about it not holding. That's why I don't recommend it. And if you take something like that to a luthier, they're going to use Titebond or a similar quality wood glue. Quoted:
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No, don't use Gorilla glue. That stuff is overrated and is completely wrong for this repair, it simply isn't strong enough. Get some Titebond, glue the break with it, carefully sit it in place and clamp it so that it doesn't shift while the glue is sitting up. And wipe off the excess that squirts out if the break with a slightly damp cloth before it sits up. http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Glues_and_Adhesives/Titebond_Wood_Glue.html I have done more critical breaks than that with gorilla glue that have and still are holding up quite well. Fine and dandy. I just don't trust Gorilla glue, I've had it not hold and have heard/read about it not holding. That's why I don't recommend it. And if you take something like that to a luthier, they're going to use Titebond or a similar quality wood glue. +1 The Luther will use Titebond because it is much easier to make the repair without dorking up the finish surrounding the crack. A good bond with wood glue is stronger than the surrounding wood so the real trick here is to make an invisible bond. The foaming action of Gorilla glue makes that more challenging. |
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Quoted: +1 The Luther will use Titebond because it is much easier to make the repair without dorking up the finish surrounding the crack. A good bond with wood glue is stronger than the surrounding wood so the real trick here is to make an invisible bond. The foaming action of Gorilla glue makes that more challenging. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: No, don't use Gorilla glue. That stuff is overrated and is completely wrong for this repair, it simply isn't strong enough. Get some Titebond, glue the break with it, carefully sit it in place and clamp it so that it doesn't shift while the glue is sitting up. And wipe off the excess that squirts out if the break with a slightly damp cloth before it sits up. http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Glues_and_Adhesives/Titebond_Wood_Glue.html I have done more critical breaks than that with gorilla glue that have and still are holding up quite well. Fine and dandy. I just don't trust Gorilla glue, I've had it not hold and have heard/read about it not holding. That's why I don't recommend it. And if you take something like that to a luthier, they're going to use Titebond or a similar quality wood glue. +1 The Luther will use Titebond because it is much easier to make the repair without dorking up the finish surrounding the crack. A good bond with wood glue is stronger than the surrounding wood so the real trick here is to make an invisible bond. The foaming action of Gorilla glue makes that more challenging.  |
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Any repair is going to look like crap if you don't refinish the area. Quoted:
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No, don't use Gorilla glue. That stuff is overrated and is completely wrong for this repair, it simply isn't strong enough. Get some Titebond, glue the break with it, carefully sit it in place and clamp it so that it doesn't shift while the glue is sitting up. And wipe off the excess that squirts out if the break with a slightly damp cloth before it sits up. http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Glues_and_Adhesives/Titebond_Wood_Glue.html I have done more critical breaks than that with gorilla glue that have and still are holding up quite well. Fine and dandy. I just don't trust Gorilla glue, I've had it not hold and have heard/read about it not holding. That's why I don't recommend it. And if you take something like that to a luthier, they're going to use Titebond or a similar quality wood glue. +1 The Luther will use Titebond because it is much easier to make the repair without dorking up the finish surrounding the crack. A good bond with wood glue is stronger than the surrounding wood so the real trick here is to make an invisible bond. The foaming action of Gorilla glue makes that more challenging. But it'll look less like crap if you just use wood glue and wipe off the excess. 
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