Posted: 1/7/2009 12:06:36 PM EDT
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Is there any building code pertaining to how network wiring must be run in a home? Does it need to be stapled to the framing or can it be loose? I am following the specs for termination, so whoever owns this house after us can know how it was terminated. Also what about running it over a drop ceiling? Right now it's just loose in the floor joices (trying to avoid power wires).
Not sure if it matters or not, but it's non-powered wire... |
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The fact that you ask a question like this proves that our government is a big steaming pile a crap, 100% steaming crap. You are aware that building codes aren't written by the government? After a private group (ie the National Fire Protection Agency) writes the code, it may be adapted by state or local government agencies. Why would they care? Because in a large building, Cables can be a huge risk for spreading fire. Other that some basic stuff about lighting protection (which is forced on the regulated phone carriers, not the homeowner), it is rarely enforced in residences, and only then if the work is done as aprt of a bigger project in which a permit is required for high voltage work. |
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Not sure on your state but in WI you cannot leave it hanging on top of a drop ceiling (the theory is that if there is a fire and the fire dept is pulling the ceiling down it will cause a bunch of crap to fall on the fire fighters injuring them).
You should not use staples to attach network cables unless you are very careful, if you get the staples to tight you can change the twist in the cable and cause your speed to slow down. The few homes that we do we just punch holes in the joists and run it though those. Keep your network cables at least 18" from any electrical wires. If you do need to cross them do so at a 90* angle to minimize EMI you might pick up. Remember to only put 18lbs of pressure on the cable as you are pulling it so you don't stretch the cable and change the twist. Keep any bends with a radius that you can fit a golf ball inside of (don't put to tight of a bend in it). As with any project, if you have any questions call your local AHJ (authority having jurisdiction). |
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In the past I have run lots of cat5 and cat6 cable for work.
It really depends on where you are installing the cable. For example while pulling cable in NW Indiana we only needed to run riser or plenum rated cable in the ceiling and walls. Plenum was always used in the ceiling area. But in Chicago the story was different. Chicago area had many more restrictions on what to use and where and the type of conduit to be used. I would highly recommend using a punch panel if you are going to be running many wires. it makes life easier down the road. I have seen people use telco style 66 blocks for Ethernet but that will create too much crosstalk and will be susceptible to interference. newegg has rj45 panels for cheep.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16831101004 |
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Unless he is using the space above his drop ceiling as a air return he should not have to use plenum wire (local codes not withstanding).
Plenum wire is used in a air handling space because of the type of plastic on the cable. When it burns it gives of fewer toxic gases. It has absolutely nothing to do with how well the cable will handle data (altho some IT guys will demand plenum cable because "it works better"). If your codes do not call for plenum cable and you are not putting it in a air handling space then save your money for a decent patch panel and maybe even a wall mounted rack. |
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It's covered in the National Electric Code (aka NEC or NFPA70) Article 725 covers copper computer network cable (plus alarm wiring- not counting legally required commerical fire alarms,) and 800 coveres the same wire if intended for phone use. NFPA says a joint use (data plus communications) cable must meet both (which is logical anyway.)
No laying the cable on top of the ceiling grid, no tieing to conduit, run thrugh the center of structural member as for power. Stapling to base boards is OK as they are non structural. Only staple if you are sure you won't crush the cable (my rule) |
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You could always get some velcro straps and staple them, then use the velcro to hold your CAT5E or CAT 6. Just snug. Make sure you label good, nothing like buying a house and having wires with
no labeling. Although it's pretty easy to trace them. 66 block is only for voice. Make sure all points of termination and cable itself are the minimum rating. I.E. you terminate a CAT 6 on a 66 block you will wind up with CAT 3 speed. Connectors and wiring and panels are 5E or 6 you mix CAT 6 with 5E your wasting your money buying CAT 6. While your wiring I would run minimum 2 runs to each location. |
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Yes, there are a number of them. I've actually just written an RFQ to rewire our entire plant. Underwriters Laboratories Subject 444 located here http://www.ul.com/lancable/bul-444_2008.pdf will give you a good start on the frequencies.
Check out TIA/EIA-568-B.2-10 for other standards. Here is a good document that lists seperation distances (page 7) as well as some other good info. http://www.wadsworth.co.uk/uploads/QCat6_Install_Guide.pdf Don't staple it. Use conduit if you can. Also if you use conduit, be nice and run some flat nylon pull strings in each run. If you've got specific questions let me know. |
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Is there any building code pertaining to how network wiring must be run in a home? Does it need to be stapled to the framing or can it be loose? I am following the specs for termination, so whoever owns this house after us can know how it was terminated. Also what about running it over a drop ceiling? Right now it's just loose in the floor joices (trying to avoid power wires). Not sure if it matters or not, but it's non-powered wire... There is a code, and it is very permissive. Follow the same rules you would for telephone wiring. No real need to staple like with NM unless you feel the need. Don't get real worried about electrical "noise". Its mostly a non-issue with Ethernet. Just be careful not to run it with power wires for any distance, but don't get real nervous about it. Unless you are using the wall cavities or the area above a drop ceiling for return air, plenum cable is not required. However, plenum cable is sometimes specified because it is a little more sturdy. Pulling cat5 or cat6 cables through conduit (if that is required), needs to be done with care. Its no where near as strong as normal conductors. Some localities have additional requirements beyond the national electrical code. Its generally a bad idea, and in violation of the code to lay cabling on top of a drop ceiling. The cables can get damaged if you need remove a tile to work above the ceiling grid. They can also be surprisingly heavy, and enough of them might well exceed the load rating of the ceiling grid. OTOH, it is a very common practice to route them this way. |
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It's covered in the National Electric Code (aka NEC or NFPA70) Article 725 covers copper computer network cable (plus alarm wiring- not counting legally required commerical fire alarms,) and 800 coveres the same wire if intended for phone use. NFPA says a joint use (data plus communications) cable must meet both (which is logical anyway.) This. Several years ago I had to plan out the wiring for a new datacenter. It was during the dotcom bust and budgets were tight - I had no idea what was "correct" and had heard a ton of advice but none could cite a true source. The best I could find and tie to a credible source was the NEC combined with the NFPA. EIA/TIA has some goos guidelines but weren't as specific as the NEC/NFPA. Just about anything else out there comes from internet rumor or at best, vendor recommendations which often contradict each other from vendor to vendor. I would contact vendors and ask them for a source of their advice and they couldn't provide anything beyond - thats what we recommend. Frustrating when faced with contradicting info. Before you follow any advice on this subject I would recommend you chase it back to a credible source - when I was doing my research the vast majority of recommendations couldn't be back tracked to any sanctioned source beyond the NEC/NFPA/EIA-TIA. |
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You could always get some velcro straps and staple them, then use the velcro to hold your CAT5E or CAT 6. Just snug. Make sure you label good, nothing like buying a house and having wires with no labeling. Although it's pretty easy to trace them. 66 block is only for voice. Make sure all points of termination and cable itself are the minimum rating. I.E. you terminate a CAT 6 on a 66 block you will wind up with CAT 3 speed. Connectors and wiring and panels are 5E or 6 you mix CAT 6 with 5E your wasting your money buying CAT 6. While your wiring I would run minimum 2 runs to each location. I did something similar to this, I got a box of wider staples (used for larger romex) installed them the same direction as my cable was running and left them out far enought to slip a piece of velcro behind them, and use them to velcro my bundle of wires too.. I ran all mine to a cat6 patch panel in my basement closet, where I have my switch, router and file server in a small rackI also ran all cat5 for voice to a 66 block on the wall and a RG6 home runs for CATV or SAT usage. |
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Just something to add, don't run it against CATV for any significant length either. Why is that? I've used Bundled cables with 2 RG6 and 2 CAT5E all together. Yeah I don't understand, I see it bundled together all the time, and yet I've seen it cause interference on the VHF channels. Maybe there was a poor ground on the jacket but I've seen it first hand. You've never seen any problems? |
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Just something to add, don't run it against CATV for any significant length either. Why is that? I've used Bundled cables with 2 RG6 and 2 CAT5E all together. Yeah I don't understand, I see it bundled together all the time, and yet I've seen it cause interference on the VHF channels. Maybe there was a poor ground on the jacket but I've seen it first hand. You've never seen any problems? No, but my only experience with it is in residential. Phone, TV, Internet, cams, A/V controllers, etc. The RG6 I was using was quad shielded and I use compression connectors on the end. In a commercial or industrial environment it's probably more critical. |
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Just something to add, don't run it against CATV for any significant length either. Why is that? I've used Bundled cables with 2 RG6 and 2 CAT5E all together. Really? Were you still able to certify the cables with both running hot? I always heard it was a no-no, but I haven't run much RG6 so its never really been an issue. -James |
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Just something to add, don't run it against CATV for any significant length either. Why is that? I've used Bundled cables with 2 RG6 and 2 CAT5E all together. Really? Were you still able to certify the cables with both running hot? I always heard it was a no-no, but I haven't run much RG6 so its never really been an issue. -James No - the application didn't really call for it. The CAT5 was multi use as was the RG6. If it was a business it would be a whole different story. Audio, Internet and Video all ran fine. |
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Pay attention to what none said.
The best answer is to call the Authority Having Jurisdiction, that is, your building inspector. Often the inspector does not care much about low-voltage cabling. In a new-construction residential environment, I often *CAREFULLY* staple cabling on the studs - as a safeguard from crankhead sheetrockers. (By staple, I use romex staples making sure not to alter the cable geometry). Regarding drop-ceilings, install J-Hooks with a minimum of six inches of clearance from the base of the hook to the top of the drop ceiling, and a minimum of three inches of clearance above the hooks. Space them 4-5 feet apart, preventing extensive sagging and too much pressure on the cabling. It may also be a good idea to use the J-Hooks in the attic space for a number of reasons: ease of future maintenance and help prevent other trades from stomping on your cabling. For a good introduction to residential data cabling, check out Leviton's Ez-Learn web site. |
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Pay attention to what none said. The best answer is to call the Authority Having Jurisdiction, that is, your building inspector. Often the inspector does not care much about low-voltage cabling. In a new-construction residential environment, I often *CAREFULLY* staple cabling on the studs - as a safeguard from crankhead sheetrockers. (By staple, I use romex staples making sure not to alter the cable geometry). Regarding drop-ceilings, install J-Hooks with a minimum of six inches of clearance from the base of the hook to the top of the drop ceiling, and a minimum of three inches of clearance above the hooks. Space them 4-5 feet apart, preventing extensive sagging and too much pressure on the cabling. It may also be a good idea to use the J-Hooks in the attic space for a number of reasons: ease of future maintenance and help prevent other trades from stomping on your cabling. For a good introduction to residential data cabling, check out Leviton's Ez-Learn web site. Umm, I guess I forgot to mention this is being run in my FINISHED house. Luckily we put drop ceilings in the basement. Obviously without ripping out drywall there is noway to use insulated staples to attach to the framing; therefore, it's running loose from the wall to the termination point. My question was more directed towards what is the proper way to run cat5/e 6 above a drop ceiling? Should I be using something to attach the wiring to the floor joists or just let it run loose like the phone lines were run? |
| Really, you could get away with running the cabling on the drop-ceiling. I don't like it or approve of it. Consider mounting J-Hooks on the joists. They're cheap and keep things tidy. If you have to do any other work in the drop ceiling, you won't have to work around a whole bunch of cabling scattered about. |
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Can someone please explain to me in simple language the reason for running Cat5 cable?
I built a new house this year and didn't put it in. I have wired the house for regular phone and regular cable. I have cable internet and it runs into a wireless router. So far, I haven't seen a need for it. But then, maybe I'm missing something. Please explain in easy to understand language!! Thanks. |
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Can someone please explain to me in simple language the reason for running Cat5 cable? I built a new house this year and didn't put it in. I have wired the house for regular phone and regular cable. I have cable internet and it runs into a wireless router. So far, I haven't seen a need for it. But then, maybe I'm missing something. Please explain in easy to understand language!! Thanks. It's used if you want to set up a network between computers to share files and/or an Internet connection. Wireless does the same basic thing, but it has speed, reliablility and potential security disadvantages compared to a wired LAN. Also, properly planned out, the same CAT-5 cable terminated into RJ-45 connectors is a multi-use cabling plant that can carry data or telephone (the telephone RJ-11 connector fits properly into an RJ-45 jack). |
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Can someone please explain to me in simple language the reason for running Cat5 cable? I built a new house this year and didn't put it in. I have wired the house for regular phone and regular cable. I have cable internet and it runs into a wireless router. So far, I haven't seen a need for it. But then, maybe I'm missing something. Please explain in easy to understand language!! Thanks. It's used if you want to set up a network between computers to share files and/or an Internet connection. Wireless does the same basic thing, but it has speed, reliablility and potential security disadvantages compared to a wired LAN. Also, properly planned out, the same CAT-5 cable terminated into RJ-45 connectors is a multi-use cabling plant that can carry data or telephone (the telephone RJ-11 connector fits properly into an RJ-45 jack). Also has its advantages when you have multi-story houses. Loss of signal strength leads to reduced reliability and speed (which was why I started hardwiring). Now every bedroom, family room, entertainment room, and even the kitchen has been wired. Our TV is delivered via IPTV so every TV has to be hooked up to a jack (the TV company ran that, not me). |