Posted: 8/7/2016 9:59:46 PM EDT
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I'm trying to replace the contactor in my Carrier a/c unit (Model # 38TU03600) I ordered the contactor based on the model number and received it the other day but it physically looks different than the one that is currently installed. Contactor currently installed New contactor I ordered Sorry I have no idea how to insert the pictures so they show up here. My question is about the two black wires on the top of the old contactor, and then the brown, black, purple and white wires on the bottom. Where would I put these wires on the new contactor as the terminals on the new one are not the same as the old one? Or is the new one I have not compatible with the set up I have? I took the old contactor out to try and get a part number off of it but it is so old that you can't read any of the information on the sticker. Thanks! Adam |
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The 2 black wires on the old one are going to go in the bottom pole of the new contractor (the covered one). One on each side so it can break the circuit.
The 2 terminals bottom left and bottom right on the old contactor are for the coil, the brown and black is one side of the coil and the purple and yellow wires are the other side of the coil on the old contactor. The new contactor your going to put the brown and black wire on the top center terminals and purple and yellow on the bottom center terminals. Those top and bottom center terminals for the the coil on the new one. |
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Quoted: The 2 black wires on the old one are going to go in the bottom pole of the new contractor (the covered one). One on each side so it can break the circuit. The 2 terminals bottom left and bottom right on the old contactor are for the coil, the brown and black is one side of the coil and the purple and yellow wires are the other side of the coil on the old contactor. The new contactor your going to put the brown and black wire on the top center terminals and purple and yellow on the bottom center terminals. Those top and bottom center terminals for the the coil on the new one. Thank you! So just to verify when I'm done it should look like this correct? |
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Quoted: Yup. Good to go! Be careful and remember to power down the unit inside the breaker panel and turn the tstat to "off" before working on it and check each wire to ground for electricity with your meter before you go sticking your fingers around it. Thanks man, I really appreciate it! I had the hvac guy out earlier this week for a yearly cleaning/inspection and he mentioned the contacts were burnt on it and it could use replacement. He wanted $400 to replace just the contactor!  $14.00 on amazon and a day on arfcom saved me a ton of $$$! |
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Quoted:
Thanks man, I really appreciate it! I had the hvac guy out earlier this week for a yearly cleaning/inspection and he mentioned the contacts were burnt on it and it could use replacement. He wanted $400 to replace just the contactor!
$14.00 on amazon and a day on arfcom saved me a ton of $$$! Quoted:
Quoted:
Yup. Good to go! Be careful and remember to power down the unit inside the breaker panel and turn the tstat to "off" before working on it and check each wire to ground for electricity with your meter before you go sticking your fingers around it. Thanks man, I really appreciate it! I had the hvac guy out earlier this week for a yearly cleaning/inspection and he mentioned the contacts were burnt on it and it could use replacement. He wanted $400 to replace just the contactor!
$14.00 on amazon and a day on arfcom saved me a ton of $$$! At least they changed to an actual relay instead of the ridiculous monster contactors with inadequate contact material design. The use ff two poles by many remains simply foolish. |
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Quoted:
He wanted $400 to replace just the contactor!
Yep. This is what I paid for mine: 
Now I do my own work. That is a ridiculous price to pay, and I feel stupid for having paid it. Good job getting yours done! eta: May I recommend you consider adding this is well. 5-2-1 Compressor saver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FNL0EY 
Reduced my start up amperage dramatically, and starts much smoother now. |
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Quoted:
Yup. Good to go! Be careful and remember to power down the unit inside the breaker panel and turn the tstat to "off" before working on it and check each wire to ground for electricity with your meter before you go sticking your fingers around it. There should be a disconnect out by the unit. It removes everything but the thermostat power (and may kill that if there is not a separate source at the air handler). At only 24 volts it is not much of an issue. |
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Touch that 24v to ground and you can fry the transformer.
The reason I say to kill the breaker is because I've had trouble with disconnects before. Iam a professional and I'm giving advice to a homeowner and want them to remain safe, and be careful. So kill the breaker and the disconnect and check with the meter for power. Personal experience and stories heard about disconnects. Especially if your working with 480 3 phase where some hack by passed it. |
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The source of the 24 may well be in the air handler or whatever the place uses for heat.
It is not all that hard to just cap the lines if you need to disconnect them for some reason. Even a tab of tape on each one will do fine. The NEC has required a disconnect at outside equipment for just about forever. About the only escape is if the breaker panel is within sight of the equipment. Even them a lockout would be a good idea. |
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Quoted:
Now I do my own work. That is a ridiculous price to pay, and I feel stupid for having paid it. Good job getting yours done! You had to pay for the know how to fix it, gas and insurance for the truck, the parts he is carrying around in the truck, and his overtime since it was after hrs |