Posted: 1/28/2014 12:36:08 PM EDT
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I'm installing one of these:
Transfer switch Into my squareD QO 20M series E1 service panel. Looks about like this, but mounted into wall. This is a pic found online... 
The problem I need to solve is this.. The panels is mounted flush where the switch is mounted on top of the wall. The switch has a metal flex conduit that goes into a knockout on the box, but because I have to transition through the wall, how do I do this correctly? I figure I will need another box that can be mounted on the wall with another conduit going through the wall to the knockout on the panel. Then I can run the conduit from the transfer switch to the secondary box. I need to do this in the shortest way possible as to not add to much more distance fir my wire run, as there is only so much to work with reinstalled in the transfer switch. I hope I'm clear in what I'm trying to do. It's tough to explain. |
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Quoted:
Just cut a small hole in the drywall below the panel. You don't really have many options. Well I know I could do that, but I have to have a offset of some kind because the transfer switch is designed to go directly in the box as if both were mounted externally. |
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Quoted: Can't, don't have room in the panel. Quoted: Quoted: Get an interlock kit instead, way easier install if you have a compatible box. I swapped over to a new box because I eventually want to upgrade to 200amp anyway and the interlock kit required minimal wiring. Can't, don't have room in the panel. |
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Quoted:
Use a few tandem breakers to free up the spaces Quoted:
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Get an interlock kit instead, way easier install if you have a compatible box. I swapped over to a new box because I eventually want to upgrade to 200amp anyway and the interlock kit required minimal wiring. Can't, don't have room in the panel. I've already purchases the transfer switch, so saving money there isn't a issue. I just was looking for advice on installing what I do have. |
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Quoted:
Well I know I could do that, but I have to have a offset of some kind because the transfer switch is designed to go directly in the box as if both were mounted externally. Quoted:
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Just cut a small hole in the drywall below the panel. You don't really have many options. Well I know I could do that, but I have to have a offset of some kind because the transfer switch is designed to go directly in the box as if both were mounted externally. The link you provided shows a surface mount transfer switch with a flex cable attached. Since you have not provided an accurate picture of anything, good luck. I installed many of those around y2k. |
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Quoted:
The link you provided shows a surface mount transfer switch with a flex cable attached. Since you have not provided an accurate picture of anything, good luck. I installed many of those around y2k. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just cut a small hole in the drywall below the panel. You don't really have many options. Well I know I could do that, but I have to have a offset of some kind because the transfer switch is designed to go directly in the box as if both were mounted externally. The link you provided shows a surface mount transfer switch with a flex cable attached. Since you have not provided an accurate picture of anything, good luck. I installed many of those around y2k. That's exactly what I'm saying. The switch is a surface mount and the panel is flush mount. The switch is more designed for them both to be surface mount. So that's why I need to come up with a transition between the two, if that makes sense. |
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You may have to do something similar to what BigDaddy did here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_17/644329__ARCHIVED_THREAD____DIY_Generator_Power_Cables_and_Install.html&page=1 Start about page four to see his recessed panel (he did use the recessed transfer switch as well). You may have to install a metal junction box nipple though to the breaker box like he did but use a metal cover with a knock out on the junction box to attach the metal conduit from the transfer panel. |
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You have a couple of options if your intent is to remain surface mount (keep in mind though, any transition of the conductors in the metallic whip should remain NEC compliant) or this is a recess option.
Flush Mount Kit at Home Depot for $50.00 Kit Contents and Instructions 
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Just install a box into the wall with a nipple going into the electrical panel. Then put a cover plate that has a knockout in it for the elbow coming off the transfer switch. A clean looking way to get the wires into the load center. |
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Quoted:
Just install a box into the wall with a nipple going into the electrical panel. Then put a cover plate that has a knockout in it for the elbow coming off the transfer switch. A clean looking way to get the wires into the load center. Google'd it... that installation linked above is NOT code compliant. you can not use that flex-duct as a raceway for wire. this issue is covered in detail here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_139/1531096_Manual_Transfer_Switch.html&page=1 ar-jedi |
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Quoted: that installation linked above is NOT code compliant. you can not use that flex-duct as a raceway for wire. this issue is covered in detail here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_139/1531096_Manual_Transfer_Switch.html&page=1 ar-jedi Quoted: Quoted: Just install a box into the wall with a nipple going into the electrical panel. Then put a cover plate that has a knockout in it for the elbow coming off the transfer switch. A clean looking way to get the wires into the load center. Google'd it... that installation linked above is NOT code compliant. you can not use that flex-duct as a raceway for wire. this issue is covered in detail here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_139/1531096_Manual_Transfer_Switch.html&page=1 ar-jedi I agree with you on the flex conduit being a bad idea. If you read my post it says to use a box, and a nipple going to the load center. I was using the link as a picture reference for what the wall should look like when finished. Sorry for the confusion.
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