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AR15.COM
2/7/2012 8:08:35 PM EDT
Anybody try this for small parts and such?

I have essentially all of the required equipment and materials.

I would only need dye.

Easy 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Hard?
2/7/2012 10:40:06 PM EDT
[#1]
Its what I do.. Not saying you cant do it.

Just that I can achieve better results than you can.
You have to strip/etch the part. Then wash it in DI water. Then let it set in the dye for the desired length of time, Wash it again then Seal it.

All of these steps have to be done for "just the right amounts of time " Temperature is super critical too.
2/8/2012 2:55:36 AM EDT
[#2]
I have a friend who works in the finish dept. at a large areospace co......I got to do a walk through....anodizing is a lot more involved than I could have imagined.

Luckily their are a few places around that do metal finishing....inclusive of anodizing.

A lot of that stuff is highly hazardous too...
2/8/2012 5:36:31 AM EDT
[#3]
Caswell Plating Forums is a good place for information. You can download their  Low Current Discharge (LCD) Manual for free which will give you a good idea what is involved in home anodizing. Years ago, Fibergeek and I developed the LCD anodizing method and worked with Caswell to develop their kit. It works well for Type II anodizing. Most of the images included in the Caswell Document are photos of Fibergeek's or my test set ups, as well test samples we developed. Although Caswell is selling their kit, it really isn't needed. The only thing is actually required is the dye and a good power supply (not a battery charger). The rest of the stuff can be cobble together from stuff in many basements, or available locally.

The main things to pay attention to are to make sure your aluminum is clean and grease free, especially blind holes, crevices, etc. Use distilled water for everything, available from Walmart for about $1 per gallon (you'll use about 8-10 gal). Take your time and don't rush things.

ETA: If you are looking for Type III anodizing, or if you don't want to invest the time/effort/expense in doing this, you can usually find a local plating company which does anodizing at a cost of about $60-$100. If you enjoy doing things for yourself and cost is a minor concern, then it is a challenge. Also, use pieces of scrap aluminum to test your setup and procedure before moving on to anodizing something you've spent a lot of time creating. You'll eliminate issues and refine your process without costing anything other than time.

ETA #2: Don't bother with the sealing chemicals either. All the sealer does is reduce the time it takes to seal the pores. Boil the part in distilled water for 30 minutes and it will accomplish the same result. In fact, use a large pot and suspend the part over the water, and steam it. I found steaming for 15 minutes, then boiling for 15 minutes helps to reduce the amount of dye that sometimes leaches out of the anodizing pores.
2/8/2012 6:11:13 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Caswell Plating Forums is a good place for information. You can download their  Low Current Discharge (LCD) Manual for free which will give you a good idea what is involved in home anodizing. Years ago, Fibergeek and I developed the LCD anodizing method and worked with Caswell to develop their kit. It works well for Type II anodizing. Most of the images included in the Caswell Document are photos of Fibergeek's or my test set ups, as well test samples we developed. Although Caswell is selling their kit, it really isn't needed. The only thing is actually required is the dye and a good power supply (not a battery charger). The rest of the stuff can be cobble together from stuff in many basements, or available locally.

The main things to pay attention to are to make sure your aluminum is clean and grease free, especially blind holes, crevices, etc. Use distilled water for everything, available from Walmart for about $1 per gallon (you'll use about 8-10 gal). Take your time and don't rush things.

ETA: If you are looking for Type III anodizing, or if you don't want to invest the time/effort/expense in doing this, you can usually find a local plating company which does anodizing at a cost of about $60-$100. If you enjoy doing things for yourself and cost is a minor concern, then it is a challenge. Also, use pieces of scrap aluminum to test your setup and procedure before moving on to anodizing something you've spent a lot of time creating. You'll eliminate issues and refine your process without costing anything other than time.

ETA #2: Don't bother with the sealing chemicals either. All the sealer does is reduce the time it takes to seal the pores. Boil the part in distilled water for 30 minutes and it will accomplish the same result. In fact, use a large pot and suspend the part over the water, and steam it. I found steaming for 15 minutes, then boiling for 15 minutes helps to reduce the amount of dye that sometimes leaches out of the anodizing pores.


2/28/2012 2:54:32 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Anybody try this for small parts and such?

I have essentially all of the required equipment and materials.

I would only need dye.

Easy 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Hard?


How did it go ??
2/29/2012 9:25:44 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Caswell Plating Forums is a good place for information. You can download their  Low Current Discharge (LCD) Manual for free which will give you a good idea what is involved in home anodizing. Years ago, Fibergeek and I developed the LCD anodizing method and worked with Caswell to develop their kit. It works well for Type II anodizing. Most of the images included in the Caswell Document are photos of Fibergeek's or my test set ups, as well test samples we developed. Although Caswell is selling their kit, it really isn't needed. The only thing is actually required is the dye and a good power supply (not a battery charger). The rest of the stuff can be cobble together from stuff in many basements, or available locally.

The main things to pay attention to are to make sure your aluminum is clean and grease free, especially blind holes, crevices, etc. Use distilled water for everything, available from Walmart for about $1 per gallon (you'll use about 8-10 gal). Take your time and don't rush things.

ETA: If you are looking for Type III anodizing, or if you don't want to invest the time/effort/expense in doing this, you can usually find a local plating company which does anodizing at a cost of about $60-$100. If you enjoy doing things for yourself and cost is a minor concern, then it is a challenge. Also, use pieces of scrap aluminum to test your setup and procedure before moving on to anodizing something you've spent a lot of time creating. You'll eliminate issues and refine your process without costing anything other than time.

ETA #2: Don't bother with the sealing chemicals either. All the sealer does is reduce the time it takes to seal the pores. Boil the part in distilled water for 30 minutes and it will accomplish the same result. In fact, use a large pot and suspend the part over the water, and steam it. I found steaming for 15 minutes, then boiling for 15 minutes helps to reduce the amount of dye that sometimes leaches out of the anodizing pores.


Neil's been there since the beginning; he remembers Fibergeek (RIP) writing the book for Caswell.   Follow his advice & read up on it - and its not hard at all.  Keys are a power supply (not a battery charger) and getting the metal really really clean, then cleaning one more time.  A solid connection is also critical (aligator clips ain't going to cut it).