Posted: 1/26/2012 2:58:16 PM EDT
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It is time for me to buy a table saw. I use my garage for storage, wood working, motorcycle parking, mountain bike parking etc. No cars though.
I need a saw that can be packed away when not in use. I like the job site saws and I would really love a high end cabinet table saw but I just don't think I have the room for it. Any recommendations? I have been looking at this one recently from Home Depot. The price is doable and I could probably find it cheaper. Rigid Table Saw I could probably be talked into a cabinet type saw with wheels and make it work but I can't buy one too expensive. What will I use it for? Everything. I have a lathe, bandsaw, circular saw, compound miter saw, dust collector. I just need a good table saw to help out with some precise cuts that I can't or not skillful enough I guess to get otherwise. I would consider building a workbench and incorporating a job site saw in it somehow as well to sort of save space. Thoughts? Talk me into or out of it and into or out of something else. ********** Update ********** So I purchased this saw on Sunday. Ridgid R4512 I am not entirely sure what changed my mind but I think it was the cast iron and the quietness of the saw on the reviews. I liked the mobility of the other saw but I can always move it where I need to. I started putting it together last night, I will have a report at some time, this week is pretty busy for me. Thanks for all of the recommendations and advice. I would absolutely love to have a high end cabinet saw but I just can't buy one right now. I will invest in a good blade and maybe a better fence down the road but for now this will do. Crossing fingers.... |
| how big of a budget? I personally have a 10" Delta Cabinet model from the mid 80's I believe and it does what it needs to very well. Jet fence and a decent blade and it has done everything I've asked it to. If I was buying new I would be hard pressed to NOT buy a SawStop. They are a hell of a saw(even without the brake) and the brake does what they advertise. They have 4 models out now from contractor style to an industrial model to help fit more price points, I've used them and they do everything asked and more. I don't like the litigious style of profit growth the owner/creator of SawStop is using but that's his choice. |
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My Father has his Father's Delta 9" table saw. I believe it is from the late '70s and still going strong. I have a 10" Delta contractor saw and bought it new in 1998. It still works great. In the late '80s my Father bought a portable Makita 7 1/4" table saw. It has been an absolute work horse. We have used it for about 5 sheds and many other projects. When he bought it the decision was between that and a similar Delta. The Makita won out primarily because it could be used on the small generator that we had at the time.
Rigid seems to have a good reputation along withe DeWalt. As long as your projects are not precision cabinet making in volume or other large projects I think the 7 1/4 to 8 1/4 size saws will work fine. If you want to do a little more or want to buy once cry once look hard at a 10" contractor saw. Mike |
| If you go with the Ridgid, check out the 4512. I haven't had a chance to assemble mine yet so I can't give you any first hand experience on it, but there are a lot of good reviews out there on it. It weighs 267 pounds but comes with a built in mobile base to make moving it easier. When I bought mine, the website had it on sale for $499, but now its showing $549. Worth the extra $50 in my opinion. |
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If you go with the Ridgid, check out the 4512. I haven't had a chance to assemble mine yet so I can't give you any first hand experience on it, but there are a lot of good reviews out there on it. It weighs 267 pounds but comes with a built in mobile base to make moving it easier. When I bought mine, the website had it on sale for $499, but now its showing $549. Worth the extra $50 in my opinion. I love mine. Took about 4 hours to assemble and true up. It was a HEAVY bitch box to load and unload out of my truck. Get some help, you'll need it. Only complaint is I wish the table extension panels were iron instead of stamped steel. But that has not been a problem so far. |
I have the older full sized version of this Dewalt
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=27042 You can get a decent table saw for your price range but the weak point in all of them in my opinion is going to be the fence. I'd look for one that can be upgraded with a high quality fence. Haven't seen a Bessemeyer fence for sale in a long time but Jet makes a fence that might fit this Jet Table Saw Jet Fence |
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I have the older full sized version of this Dewalt http://www.rockler.com/rso_images/Dewalt/DW745_1-200.jpg http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=27042 You can get a decent table saw for your price range but the weak point in all of them in my opinion is going to be the fence. I'd look for one that can be upgraded with a high quality fence. Haven't seen a Bessemeyer fence for sale in a long time but Jet makes a fence that might fit this Jet Table Saw Jet Fence I have this with the optional stand for a jobsite saw, I have built a few paintable cabinets on site with the saw but would'nt use it for stain grade material. What ever saw the op gets, a blade upgrade is the first thing that should be done. |
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Someone, maybe Makita, is coming out with an alternative technology to the Sawstop that neither destroys the blade nor requires replacing a $75 cartridge once tripped. You can't afford a Sawstop? What will one trip to the ER cost? So are you saying that every single person who uses a table saw should have a saw stop? |
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I use a $300 Ryobi job site saw. I'm not making furniture or anything, but I do a lot of high end trim work. They are surprisingly decent saws for cheap. And if you use it without any guards or fence you can hurt yourself and sue Ryobi. Unsure what you are insinuating here? |
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So are you saying that every single person who uses a table saw should have a saw stop? I am saying every single person should seriously consider this trade off when buying a new table saw. Having had a minor saw mishap myself*, and wanting to buy a new saw, it is something I am seriously considering. What I am not saying is that every person SHALL have a Sawstop. Neither am I saying that every saw made SHALL have a Sawstop. While both of these are good, well-intentioned ideas, the mandate that goes along with them is a very BAD idea and outweighs the benefit. The Sawstop story is very, very interesting in terms of real, practical product liability practice in the tool industry and also in product liability case law. * While I still have all ten digits, my left thumb is now 1/8" shorter in length than my right. The medical bills would have easily covered the price of a Sawstop. The temporary disability induced lasted for months and the wound took months to recover. I still have nerve damage. |
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I use a $300 Ryobi job site saw. I'm not making furniture or anything, but I do a lot of high end trim work. They are surprisingly decent saws for cheap. And if you use it without any guards or fence you can hurt yourself and sue Ryobi. Unsure what you are insinuating here? That was the basis of the lawsuit in MA. The manufacturer of Sawstop is also trying to get CPSC to mandate the technology on ALL table saws. |
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I use a $300 Ryobi job site saw. I'm not making furniture or anything, but I do a lot of high end trim work. They are surprisingly decent saws for cheap. And if you use it without any guards or fence you can hurt yourself and sue Ryobi. Unsure what you are insinuating here? That was the basis of the lawsuit in MA. The manufacturer of Sawstop is also trying to get CPSC to mandate the technology on ALL table saws. That seems ridiculous. Almost like trying to sue Glock if you shoot yourself in the leg. |
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I use a $300 Ryobi job site saw. I'm not making furniture or anything, but I do a lot of high end trim work. They are surprisingly decent saws for cheap. And if you use it without any guards or fence you can hurt yourself and sue Ryobi. Unsure what you are insinuating here? That was the basis of the lawsuit in MA. The manufacturer of Sawstop is also trying to get CPSC to mandate the technology on ALL table saws. That seems ridiculous. Almost like trying to sue Glock if you shoot yourself in the leg. Hey, it worked for that whore bag who spilled coffee in her lap and sued McDonalds. 
Anyway, I have a Hitachi C10FL that I've had for about 7 years. It's a decent saw, but if I knew then what I know now, I would have got something else. Here are things to consider: Get one with an induction motor, a TEFC type (mine is open and STUPID inside a saw enclosure because it gets packed with dust). Avoid stamped steel extension wings, get one with webbed cast iron if possible. More weight is better, and most "contractor/home-shop" saws these days have built in mobile bases. Look for a well designed dust collection system. Get at least a 30" fence. Use a full kerf blade. Get an Amana "Euro Rip 20T" blade for ripping thick hardwood, and a Forrest WoodWorker II for everything else. These will allow you to work within the limitations of the 1.5HP motors on these saws while still limiting vibration and improving cut. I am disgusted with my current saw already and am seriously considering a Delta Unisaw. Of course space and power requirements are the two things really holding me back from dropping the $2,700 (with $300 rebate going now).
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Quoted: Quoted: So are you saying that every single person who uses a table saw should have a saw stop? I am saying every single person should seriously consider this trade off when buying a new table saw. Having had a minor saw mishap myself*, and wanting to buy a new saw, it is something I am seriously considering. What I am not saying is that every person SHALL have a Sawstop. Neither am I saying that every saw made SHALL have a Sawstop. While both of these are good, well-intentioned ideas, the mandate that goes along with them is a very BAD idea and outweighs the benefit. The Sawstop story is very, very interesting in terms of real, practical product liability practice in the tool industry and also in product liability case law. * While I still have all ten digits, my left thumb is now 1/8" shorter in length than my right. The medical bills would have easily covered the price of a Sawstop. The temporary disability induced lasted for months and the wound took months to recover. I still have nerve damage. Lol, keep your hand off the blade.  Saws, and all other machine tools, have been run for a very very long time without whiz-bang safety gadgets and don't need them now. |
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Lol, keep your hand off the blade.
Saws, and all other machine tools, have been run for a very very long time without whiz-bang safety gadgets and don't need them now. LOL! Yeah, duh! Accidents do happen. I'd never had anything like that happen before,,... or since. |
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That SawStop thing does look amazing...but I don't use a table saw without a push stick. If I screw up the cut...God makes more wood. He only made me ten digits to work with on my hands, though.
I'm in the market for a table saw myself. The Ridgid may be the way to go. Edit: Correction; I have TWO hands. |
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Carlos Osorio of Malden, Mass netted 1.5 million from Ryobi.
He used a Ryobi saw without a guide or push sticks. Three cheers for Taxachusets. http://www.oregonpersonalinjurylawyerblog.com/2010/03/oregon-invention-helps-win-law.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+OregonPersonalInjuryLawyerBlogCom+%28Oregon+Personal+Injury+Lawyer+Blog%29 BOHICA 
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Carlos Osorio of Malden, Mass netted 1.5 million from Ryobi. He used a Ryobi saw without a guide or push sticks. Three cheers for Taxachusets. http://www.oregonpersonalinjurylawyerblog.com/2010/03/oregon-invention-helps-win-law.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+OregonPersonalInjuryLawyerBlogCom+%28Oregon+Personal+Injury+Lawyer+Blog%29 BOHICA Everytime time I hear about sawstop, I hate them even more. Obviously the guy bought the saw for the same reason I did - 1) it's light and portible, 2) it's inexpensive. My old Ryboi saw earned a "Best Value" stamp from Fine Homebuilding. I would agree. For the price, they are great. For what I need them for, they are great. If the saw was equipped with sawstop technology it would not have been 1) inexpensive or 2) lightweight. I have a feeling Mr. Osorio wouldn't have purchased a sawstop based on the price. So he should have asumed the risk that comes with operating ANY power tool. The sad part is that the Jury ruled in his favor instead of realizing his negligence was more at fault than the design of a saw. I cut myself once. It was on my Makita 10" compound slider with a fully functioning blade gaurd. 10 stiches, nicked a tendon, nerve damage, etc, etc. I'm lucky that a scar across 3 of my fingers is my only visible reminder of the incident. Obviously for that to happen I did something wrong. |
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<snip>... I have a feeling Mr. Osorio wouldn't have purchased a sawstop based on the price. So he should have asumed the risk that comes with operating ANY power tool. The sad part is that the Jury ruled in his favor instead of realizing his negligence was more at fault than the design of a saw. I cut myself once. It was on my Makita 10" compound slider with a fully functioning blade gaurd. 10 stiches, nicked a tendon, nerve damage, etc, etc. I'm lucky that a scar across 3 of my fingers is my only visible reminder of the incident. Obviously for that to happen I did something wrong. You are welcome to hate Mr. Sawstop for his politics (trying to legislate his device into every saw sold in the USA). I certainly do not condone what he did. You are welcome to hate Mr. Osorio, too. IIRC, he was working for someone at the time. IIRC, it was not his saw. We both agree that our accidents were our fault, not the fault of the prodcut or the manufacturers. Still, when and if I buy a new table saw, I will seriously consider a Sawstop-type device (newer, better versions are under development now). |
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Anyway, I have a Hitachi C10FL that I've had for about 7 years. It's a decent saw, but if I knew then what I know now, I would have got something else.
Here are things to consider: Get one with an induction motor, a TEFC type (mine is open and STUPID inside a saw enclosure because it gets packed with dust). Avoid stamped steel extension wings, get one with webbed cast iron if possible. More weight is better, and most "contractor/home-shop" saws these days have built in mobile bases. Look for a well designed dust collection system. Get at least a 30" fence. Use a full kerf blade. Get an Amana "Euro Rip 20T" blade for ripping thick hardwood, and a Forrest WoodWorker II for everything else. These will allow you to work within the limitations of the 1.5HP motors on these saws while still limiting vibration and improving cut. I am disgusted with my current saw already and am seriously considering a Delta Unisaw. Of course space and power requirements are the two things really holding me back from dropping the $2,700 (with $300 rebate going now).
The C10FL is the saw that I bought. Lowe's was blowing them out for $399 and I had a 10%-off coupon and a $50 gift card from my SIL. Tax included, I walked out with it for about $325. Went back to Lowe's a week later and the price had dropped another hundred bucks to $299. I got my receipt from the van and brought it to customer service. The nice lady there refunded me the difference, so I ended up paying $225. I was very pleased!! I replaced the blade with a Freud and replaced the belt with a Link-belt. Made a HUGE difference. I can place a nickel on edge on the table top and start the saw and the nickel remains standing. I also ditched the cheap-ass miter gauge and bought an Incra 1000SE. It's not a cabinet saw by any stretch, but I've been extremely pleased with it. When we redo my Wife's bathroom I'm going to build my own vanities. |
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Carlos Osorio of Malden, Mass netted 1.5 million from Ryobi. He used a Ryobi saw without a guide or push sticks. Three cheers for Taxachusets. http://www.oregonpersonalinjurylawyerblog.com/2010/03/oregon-invention-helps-win-law.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+OregonPersonalInjuryLawyerBlogCom+%28Oregon+Personal+Injury+Lawyer+Blog%29 BOHICA Everytime time I hear about sawstop, I hate them even more. Obviously the guy bought the saw for the same reason I did - 1) it's light and portible, 2) it's inexpensive. My old Ryboi saw earned a "Best Value" stamp from Fine Homebuilding. I would agree. For the price, they are great. For what I need them for, they are great. If the saw was equipped with sawstop technology it would not have been 1) inexpensive or 2) lightweight. I have a feeling Mr. Osorio wouldn't have purchased a sawstop based on the price. So he should have asumed the risk that comes with operating ANY power tool. The sad part is that the Jury ruled in his favor instead of realizing his negligence was more at fault than the design of a saw. I cut myself once. It was on my Makita 10" compound slider with a fully functioning blade gaurd. 10 stiches, nicked a tendon, nerve damage, etc, etc. I'm lucky that a scar across 3 of my fingers is my only visible reminder of the incident. Obviously for that to happen I did something wrong. Actually taking personal responsibility for mistakes seems to be gone from a whole lot of people. 
I have a kickbacks over 30+ years, rather downright scary on a 3 hp Unisaw. A few bruises and scratches, and dent from the maple board in the bloak wall a few feet behind me, but not much else. I purchased, installed, and use a kickback preventer. It is one of the wheeled combined hold down and kickback preventer (at least 20 years old, well before the 'board buddy' type ones). It uses a spring loaded troll with 4 wheels that only rotate in one direction to hold wood down and prevent if from kicking back. I have not seen this model for sale in a while, though I have not been looking either. Table saws are dangerous tools. They require full attention all the time every time, and at least some planning and use of safety devices based on the cut being made. For wet wood that may close on the kerf I switched to a bandsaw long ago. |
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Carlos Osorio of Malden, Mass netted 1.5 million from Ryobi. He used a Ryobi saw without a guide or push sticks. Three cheers for Taxachusets. http://www.oregonpersonalinjurylawyerblog.com/2010/03/oregon-invention-helps-win-law.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+OregonPersonalInjuryLawyerBlogCom+%28Oregon+Personal+Injury+Lawyer+Blog%29 BOHICA Everytime time I hear about sawstop, I hate them even more. Obviously the guy bought the saw for the same reason I did - 1) it's light and portible, 2) it's inexpensive. My old Ryboi saw earned a "Best Value" stamp from Fine Homebuilding. I would agree. For the price, they are great. For what I need them for, they are great. If the saw was equipped with sawstop technology it would not have been 1) inexpensive or 2) lightweight. I have a feeling Mr. Osorio wouldn't have purchased a sawstop based on the price. So he should have asumed the risk that comes with operating ANY power tool. The sad part is that the Jury ruled in his favor instead of realizing his negligence was more at fault than the design of a saw. I cut myself once. It was on my Makita 10" compound slider with a fully functioning blade gaurd. 10 stiches, nicked a tendon, nerve damage, etc, etc. I'm lucky that a scar across 3 of my fingers is my only visible reminder of the incident. Obviously for that to happen I did something wrong. Actually taking personal responsibility for mistakes seems to be gone from a whole lot of people.
I have a kickbacks over 30+ years, rather downright scary on a 3 hp Unisaw. A few bruises and scratches, and dent from the maple board in the bloak wall a few feet behind me, but not much else. I purchased, installed, and use a kickback preventer. It is one of the wheeled combined hold down and kickback preventer (at least 20 years old, well before the 'board buddy' type ones). It uses a spring loaded troll with 4 wheels that only rotate in one direction to hold wood down and prevent if from kicking back. I have not seen this model for sale in a while, though I have not been looking either. Table saws are dangerous tools. They require full attention all the time every time, and at least some planning and use of safety devices based on the cut being made. For wet wood that may close on the kerf I switched to a bandsaw long ago. One of these? 
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003794/30976/Yellow-OneDirection-AntiKickback-Safety-Rollers.aspx |
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Carlos Osorio of Malden, Mass netted 1.5 million from Ryobi. He used a Ryobi saw without a guide or push sticks. Three cheers for Taxachusets. http://www.oregonpersonalinjurylawyerblog.com/2010/03/oregon-invention-helps-win-law.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+OregonPersonalInjuryLawyerBlogCom+%28Oregon+Personal+Injury+Lawyer+Blog%29 BOHICA Everytime time I hear about sawstop, I hate them even more. Obviously the guy bought the saw for the same reason I did - 1) it's light and portible, 2) it's inexpensive. My old Ryboi saw earned a "Best Value" stamp from Fine Homebuilding. I would agree. For the price, they are great. For what I need them for, they are great. If the saw was equipped with sawstop technology it would not have been 1) inexpensive or 2) lightweight. I have a feeling Mr. Osorio wouldn't have purchased a sawstop based on the price. So he should have asumed the risk that comes with operating ANY power tool. The sad part is that the Jury ruled in his favor instead of realizing his negligence was more at fault than the design of a saw. I cut myself once. It was on my Makita 10" compound slider with a fully functioning blade gaurd. 10 stiches, nicked a tendon, nerve damage, etc, etc. I'm lucky that a scar across 3 of my fingers is my only visible reminder of the incident. Obviously for that to happen I did something wrong. Actually taking personal responsibility for mistakes seems to be gone from a whole lot of people.
I have a kickbacks over 30+ years, rather downright scary on a 3 hp Unisaw. A few bruises and scratches, and dent from the maple board in the bloak wall a few feet behind me, but not much else. I purchased, installed, and use a kickback preventer. It is one of the wheeled combined hold down and kickback preventer (at least 20 years old, well before the 'board buddy' type ones). It uses a spring loaded troll with 4 wheels that only rotate in one direction to hold wood down and prevent if from kicking back. I have not seen this model for sale in a while, though I have not been looking either. Table saws are dangerous tools. They require full attention all the time every time, and at least some planning and use of safety devices based on the cut being made. For wet wood that may close on the kerf I switched to a bandsaw long ago. One of these? http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/146836_400.jpg http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003794/30976/Yellow-OneDirection-AntiKickback-Safety-Rollers.aspx Those are a newer type. Mine has been on the saw so long I do not even remember who made it. The bogey has four wheels, a couple powerful springs, and a slight angle towards the fence to push things tight as they are fed. |
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Anyway, I have a Hitachi C10FL that I've had for about 7 years. It's a decent saw, but if I knew then what I know now, I would have got something else.
Here are things to consider: Get one with an induction motor, a TEFC type (mine is open and STUPID inside a saw enclosure because it gets packed with dust). Avoid stamped steel extension wings, get one with webbed cast iron if possible. More weight is better, and most "contractor/home-shop" saws these days have built in mobile bases. Look for a well designed dust collection system. Get at least a 30" fence. Use a full kerf blade. Get an Amana "Euro Rip 20T" blade for ripping thick hardwood, and a Forrest WoodWorker II for everything else. These will allow you to work within the limitations of the 1.5HP motors on these saws while still limiting vibration and improving cut. I am disgusted with my current saw already and am seriously considering a Delta Unisaw. Of course space and power requirements are the two things really holding me back from dropping the $2,700 (with $300 rebate going now).
The C10FL is the saw that I bought. Lowe's was blowing them out for $399 and I had a 10%-off coupon and a $50 gift card from my SIL. Tax included, I walked out with it for about $325. Went back to Lowe's a week later and the price had dropped another hundred bucks to $299. I got my receipt from the van and brought it to customer service. The nice lady there refunded me the difference, so I ended up paying $225. I was very pleased!! I replaced the blade with a Freud and replaced the belt with a Link-belt. Made a HUGE difference. I can place a nickel on edge on the table top and start the saw and the nickel remains standing. I also ditched the cheap-ass miter gauge and bought an Incra 1000SE. It's not a cabinet saw by any stretch, but I've been extremely pleased with it. When we redo my Wife's bathroom I'm going to build my own vanities. I just replaced the arbor bearings on mine, as well as the motor bearings. All were shot. The motor is not TEFC, so it WILL get packed with saw dust. Be aware of this. I have no doubt that this is what lead to the bearings in the motor crapping out. Also, the trunnions don't have much play for adjustment, so if you ever need to align the blade to the miter slot you'll need to drill out the holes to enlarge them to allow for movement. Also, the stamped steel extension wings are difficult to level with the main table. For the first couple of years the saw was great, but it has been showing its deficiencies lately, and now I'm at the point of wanting to buy a Unisaw even though I don't have the space and power requirements for it, yet. ETA: At the price you bought yours at, the short comings are a lot easier to put up with. I paid $500 for mine in 2005. |
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Carlos Osorio of Malden, Mass netted 1.5 million from Ryobi. He used a Ryobi saw without a guide or push sticks. Three cheers for Taxachusets. http://www.oregonpersonalinjurylawyerblog.com/2010/03/oregon-invention-helps-win-law.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+OregonPersonalInjuryLawyerBlogCom+%28Oregon+Personal+Injury+Lawyer+Blog%29 BOHICA Everytime time I hear about sawstop, I hate them even more. Obviously the guy bought the saw for the same reason I did - 1) it's light and portible, 2) it's inexpensive. My old Ryboi saw earned a "Best Value" stamp from Fine Homebuilding. I would agree. For the price, they are great. For what I need them for, they are great. If the saw was equipped with sawstop technology it would not have been 1) inexpensive or 2) lightweight. I have a feeling Mr. Osorio wouldn't have purchased a sawstop based on the price. So he should have asumed the risk that comes with operating ANY power tool. The sad part is that the Jury ruled in his favor instead of realizing his negligence was more at fault than the design of a saw. I cut myself once. It was on my Makita 10" compound slider with a fully functioning blade gaurd. 10 stiches, nicked a tendon, nerve damage, etc, etc. I'm lucky that a scar across 3 of my fingers is my only visible reminder of the incident. Obviously for that to happen I did something wrong. Actually taking personal responsibility for mistakes seems to be gone from a whole lot of people.
I have a kickbacks over 30+ years, rather downright scary on a 3 hp Unisaw. A few bruises and scratches, and dent from the maple board in the bloak wall a few feet behind me, but not much else. I purchased, installed, and use a kickback preventer. It is one of the wheeled combined hold down and kickback preventer (at least 20 years old, well before the 'board buddy' type ones). It uses a spring loaded troll with 4 wheels that only rotate in one direction to hold wood down and prevent if from kicking back. I have not seen this model for sale in a while, though I have not been looking either. Table saws are dangerous tools. They require full attention all the time every time, and at least some planning and use of safety devices based on the cut being made. For wet wood that may close on the kerf I switched to a bandsaw long ago. Yeah, I hurt myself with a table saw once doing something stupid. I needed to run off a pile of blocks to 2x2x6". When I got the wood milled to 2x2" at random lengths I went ahead and set the fence 6" away from the blade... Now, I can think of maybe 100 ways to do this safer, some even faster, but that isn't what I did then.. So I went ahead with the miter gauge on the right side of the blade and the fence on the left. I think I needed 30 or so. I made it maybe half way through when one of those chunks binded between the blade and the fence. That damn thing flew back so hard and a corner hit me right in the nipple. Man, I mean that sucker hit hard. It knocked the wind out of me. I took a knee and tried to catch my breath. If I had made a sound it would have in a pitch that would make a dogs head turn. I couldn't take a full breath for a while. The corner of that block hit so hard that it made an "L" shaped pressure wound. I had blood running down my shirt and when I finished cleaning up it looked like my nipple was a clock and the time was exactly 3 O'clock, you know, the big hand pointing up.. over the course of the day it turned purple and blue and swelled up too. ...and that is my dumb table saw story. Trust me, it's a lot funnier told in person, either by me or any of my friends that were around. For a good portion of that experience I was in between crying and laughing and it was all about my nipple, my bloody nipple. Safety first! 
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When you calculate how fast the edge of the blade is moving you can start to realize how fast a thrown object can be moving.
I was using an angle jig to cut a tapered maple arm rest for an outdoor bench. The single hold down on the jig was just not strong enough. Glad it turned out to be a non-serious injury. |
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I don't think Saw Stop technology solves the kick back problem. I never stand in line with the spinning blade. I always stand to the side. It is amazing how fast a kick back happens and how fast the work flies.
I have those yellow wheeled hold-downs. I never liked them. They get in the way. They don't work for small (thin) work. They greatly increase how hard you have to push to get the work to move forward, which increases the risk. I have them. I just don't use them. |
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I don't think Saw Stop technology solves the kick back problem. I never stand in line with the spinning blade. I always stand to the side. It is amazing how fast a kick back happens and how fast the work flies. I have those yellow wheeled hold-downs. I never liked them. They get in the way. They don't work for small (thin) work. They greatly increase how hard you have to push to get the work to move forward, which increases the risk. I have them. I just don't use them. You should see what happens when the kickback bounces off the rip fence. They do not always come straight back. |
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Quoted: Nope, Sawstop doesn't cure kickbacks. I read somewhere that it has been known to trip just from wet wood. Me too. Fuck saw stop. That's a nice saw OP, the blade will even dice up some unexpected nails. It took a few minutes to get the blade setup nice and square, but that should be a one-time thing. |