Posted: 3/13/2011 7:21:01 AM EDT
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Long story short, I need a new deck surface. The previous homeowners: 1. Used nails (now popping) 2. Left no gap between boards 3. Used what appears to be interior latex in several coats to paint the deck Now I have a deck that is not really safe to walk on without going over it every few weeks to put down all the nails coming up. And the paint is flaking like crazy so I hate to continue to maintain this surface. These composite materials are expensive, but I am assuming the increased cost is made up in lower maintenance and increased life. Anyone used this stuff, like it? What brands are worth considering? |
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I have it on my deck and covered back porch. It is expensive, but it's final and worth the extra money. No warping, no splinters. Even wood decking should be attached with screws. Replacing the nails with screws might be an option for you if the wood isn't too split and splintered.
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Quoted: I have it on my deck and covered back porch. It is expensive, but it's final and worth the extra money. No warping, no splinters. Even wood decking should be attached with screws. Replacing the nails with screws might be an option for you if the wood isn't too split and splintered. I just feel like it is wasting my time to start repairing that thing. It holds water like a wading pool, and the wood looks like hell. Ill have a few boxes of screws in it and it still needs to have some way to get the water off of it (drill holes?), and it needs to be stripped and repainted. |
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Quoted:
Long story short, I need a new deck surface. The previous homeowners: 1. Used nails (now popping) 2. Left no gap between boards 3. Used what appears to be interior latex in several coats to paint the deck Now I have a deck that is not really safe to walk on without going over it every few weeks to put down all the nails coming up. And the paint is flaking like crazy so I hate to continue to maintain this surface. These composite materials are expensive, but I am assuming the increased cost is made up in lower maintenance and increased life. Anyone used this stuff, like it? What brands are worth considering? made mine out of Trex about 9 years ago. Once a year I powerwash it and that is it. Color has stayed pretty good and maintance is very minimal. Only thing you may run into "retro fitting" composite to a deck that was originally wood is that the span rating is usually about 1/2 of that of wood, so you need more cross members/"joists" with composite or it will sag and/or be real bouncy. Also make sure that you use the screws that are specifically made for composite decking, make the job easier and the finished product is better. J- |
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Others have posted good, accurate info on the composite decking. Let me add a few points on wood decking:
First, as someone else has already said, screws are always better than nails. They hold better, and they allow you to easily remove damaged deck boards for replacement. Make sure you use quality deck screws, not the cheapest thing HD or Lowe's has for sale. Also, look for a Torx or square-drive head, as those heads will take the additional torque applied without stripping out (or damaging the protective coating). Second, some wood deck boards are meant to be installed tight. Pressure-treated pine is the most common here. When it's delivered and installed, it is usually soaking wet from treatment. It is always installed tightly. As it dries, it shrinks and leaves its own gap. Something like redwood or teak, OTOH, will usually be installed with the proper spacing (generally 1/8", or about the thickness of a 16d common nail). Finally, painting a deck is generally NEVER a good idea. The boards have moisture in them already. Once painted, they will continue to absorb moisture from the unpainted bottom, ends, and edges. This will cause the paint to flake off, as you described. Not to mention, a deck is a high-traffic surface, for which paint is not a long-lasting coating to begin with. If you wish to color you deck, a much better solution is an opaque deck stain. It penetrates the wood and leaves some grain detail, unlike paint. It also allows the wood to "breathe" much better than any paint or coating. Of course, the stain will have to be reapplied every so often, and it will not prevent the eventual deterioration of the wood (although it may delay that deterioration some). My advice is to use the composite for the decking surface if you can afford it. As long as you install it properly, you won't regret it. |
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I know this is just my opinion/preference, but, considering the high cost of composite decking, why not use ipe (pronounced E-pay)? You will be in the same price range and it will be real wood. Also, you won't have to worry about any spring in the deck boards like you would with composite. It's murder on your blades, heavy as hell, and the saw dust feels like cyanine pepper on your skin, but it is the most beautiful deck surface out there.
Just a thought. Read up on it a bit, I think it will impress you. 
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Quoted:
I know this is just my opinion/preference, but, considering the high cost of composite decking, why not use ipe (pronounced E-pay)? You will be in the same price range and it will be real wood. Also, you won't have to worry about any spring in the deck boards like you would with composite. It's murder on your blades, heavy as hell, and the saw dust feels like cyanine pepper on your skin, but it is the most beautiful deck surface out there. Just a thought. Read up on it a bit, I think it will impress you. http://www.ironwoods.com/images/timberholdings_main_ipe.jpg Ipe is great for a deck, after you get it installed that is. 
It's expensive enough, though, that it is comparable to the composites. |
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Quoted: Others have posted good, accurate info on the composite decking. Let me add a few points on wood decking: First, as someone else has already said, screws are always better than nails. They hold better, and they allow you to easily remove damaged deck boards for replacement. Make sure you use quality deck screws, not the cheapest thing HD or Lowe's has for sale. Also, look for a Torx or square-drive head, as those heads will take the additional torque applied without stripping out (or damaging the protective coating). Second, some wood deck boards are meant to be installed tight. Pressure-treated pine is the most common here. When it's delivered and installed, it is usually soaking wet from treatment. It is always installed tightly. As it dries, it shrinks and leaves its own gap. Something like redwood or teak, OTOH, will usually be installed with the proper spacing (generally 1/8", or about the thickness of a 16d common nail). Finally, painting a deck is generally NEVER a good idea. The boards have moisture in them already. Once painted, they will continue to absorb moisture from the unpainted bottom, ends, and edges. This will cause the paint to flake off, as you described. Not to mention, a deck is a high-traffic surface, for which paint is not a long-lasting coating to begin with. If you wish to color you deck, a much better solution is an opaque deck stain. It penetrates the wood and leaves some grain detail, unlike paint. It also allows the wood to "breathe" much better than any paint or coating. Of course, the stain will have to be reapplied every so often, and it will not prevent the eventual deterioration of the wood (although it may delay that deterioration some). My advice is to use the composite for the decking surface if you can afford it. As long as you install it properly, you won't regret it. Im not sure why whoever put in this deck (non-DIYer) used nails, maybe they had access to a pneumatic nailer or something. I use DeckMate, they drive great and come in several colors. Based on the paint they left behind they used $5.99 big lots interior latex paint. Not sure what they were thinking but it looks like hell. I have done my share of real wood decks, but the composite stuff has never been something I have really looked at before. I dont mind the upkeep for a good-looking wood deck, but if the composite is as good as they say it is, it is at least worth a look. Good to know about the span. I think this hacked-together deck has messed up joist spacing right now anyways. I was thinking of just pulling up the boards and re-decking, but I might just tear the whole structure down and do it right from the ground up. |
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stuff costs a premium price, but you won't have to mess with it ever again.
You'll need to add more joists as teh composite material isn't as strong, needs a narrower span. If your joists are on 24" centers, the easiest thing to do is double them up by adding new joists to amke the whole thing 12" centers. Or if you need to save a few bucks, move every other joist over 8" and put a new joist in the middle of the resulting larger gap. That'll give you 16" centers, providing you started wtih 24" I've seen some nice looking decks done this way, with the joists and fascia / trim painted to match the house, with the deck surfaces and rail tops in the natural wood (or composite) |
| I would look into one of the budget lines from the bigger manufacturers, if you are looking to save some cash. Timbertech makes a line called Reliaboard that is only available in two colors, but can be had for much less than their other lines. Check out your joist spacing, 16" is what you definitely need for composite decking. While the Ipe looks awesome when it first goes down, if you get any sort of sunlight it will turn gray in no time at all. Plus it costs more than most composites, and it is incredibly difficult to work with. You can barely cut it, you can barely drill into it, and whenever you cut it you have to seal it with a wax so it won't split. Also check out building suppliers, sometimes they have a bad special order left over and are willing to make a deal on it. I know we have sold some old stuff before for pennies on the dollar just to get rid of it. |
| I've never used composite decking outdoors but I did use a lot of it in the ice house where I used to work. That stuff has stood up to 110 to -10 degree weather, its always wet if its not freezing and you throw 8 pound bags of ice on them to break them up. I would replace the floors every year with treated wood, but that stuff has been there more than 10 years now. Oh and if you shorten the span it will take several tons of weight without breaking. If your looking at the long term you won't beat composite. If I ever build a deck that's what I'll use. |
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You may want to look into this: http://www.purewoodproducts.com/ It is cheaper than composite, but more expensive than PT. They heat treat the wood with a mixture of heat and steam to chemically modify the sugars and stuff in the wood so bugs aren't attracted to it and it makes it much more resistant to rotting. Depending on which style you get, it comes with either a 15 or 25 year warranty. I used it to build a new dock 2 years ago, and it seems to be holding up just fine. It doesn't warp and twist like PT does when it drys out. |