Posted: 12/2/2009 5:24:28 PM EDT
| I have a 2000 Chev S10 and the water temp doesnt seem to heat up to normal. It runs about 50 degrees cooler and the heater doesnt work. I have a new thermostat and that didnt help. The water circulates through both upper and lower radiator hoses.. The hoses that run into the firewall to the heater core dont seem to heat up. I looked for a heater control valve but I think its inside the dash becuase I cant find it in the engine compartment. Appreciate any thoughts and ideas |
| In reading your post you answer your own question. "The hoses that run into the firewall to the heater core don`t seem to be hot." Any idea how much stop leak has been poured into the system over the years to clog it up? Might as well start by removing the heater hoses from the engine to find out what is stuck in them. Good luck!!!!!! |
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Quoted: In reading your post you answer your own question. "The hoses that run into the firewall to the heater core don`t seem to be hot." Any idea how much stop leak has been poured into the system over the years to clog it up? Might as well start by removing the heater hoses from the engine to find out what is stuck in them. Good luck!!!!!! after that be prepared to remove the dash (or part of it) to replace the heater core. 
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Just for your own knowledge, we have attempted many times to flush out heater cores on the S10's in the past. It never works. The heater core is basically just a miniature radiator, with all the individual tubes for coolant to flow through. As they clog up, the coolant is forced through the reamainig clear tubes, until they progressively clog up themselves. You will end up with maybe two or three or four tubes clear enough for the coolant to flow through, but that restriction prevents enough coolant from flowing, hence no heat. When you flush it, you will get decent flow out of the main tubes because you are applying more pressure than the water pump generates, but you will not be getting through any of those clogged tubes.
Unfortunately for you, you will need to replace the heater core, which requires removal of the dash as was previously stated, and usually takes 4 hours or so including time to bleed the system when you are done. |
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Quoted:
Just for your own knowledge, we have attempted many times to flush out heater cores on the S10's in the past. It never works. The heater core is basically just a miniature radiator, with all the individual tubes for coolant to flow through. As they clog up, the coolant is forced through the reamainig clear tubes, until they progressively clog up themselves. You will end up with maybe two or three or four tubes clear enough for the coolant to flow through, but that restriction prevents enough coolant from flowing, hence no heat. When you flush it, you will get decent flow out of the main tubes because you are applying more pressure than the water pump generates, but you will not be getting through any of those clogged tubes. Unfortunately for you, you will need to replace the heater core, which requires removal of the dash as was previously stated, and usually takes 4 hours or so including time to bleed the system when you are done. 4 hours would be cheap. I think it's listed as a 10 hour job. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Just for your own knowledge, we have attempted many times to flush out heater cores on the S10's in the past. It never works. The heater core is basically just a miniature radiator, with all the individual tubes for coolant to flow through. As they clog up, the coolant is forced through the reamainig clear tubes, until they progressively clog up themselves. You will end up with maybe two or three or four tubes clear enough for the coolant to flow through, but that restriction prevents enough coolant from flowing, hence no heat. When you flush it, you will get decent flow out of the main tubes because you are applying more pressure than the water pump generates, but you will not be getting through any of those clogged tubes. Unfortunately for you, you will need to replace the heater core, which requires removal of the dash as was previously stated, and usually takes 4 hours or so including time to bleed the system when you are done. 4 hours would be cheap. I think it's listed as a 10 hour job. The only GM that I have ever seen 'easy' to fix in the heat department, is an Astrovan... The heater core is inside a 'heater box' and accessible without dash removal (as it should be).... The problem? Due to the STUPID way they bolted the doghouse on there, everything else is a PITA. |
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Had a similar problem with my former 2001 S-10 Blazer. Twas the heater core and it was quite clogged. Why? Don't know. (Dex-cool sucks?) Anyway, we took it to a mechanic who specializes in auto HVAC and he was able to reverse flush it but only got it slightly unclogged. It at least threw some heat at that point. That, and the fact that the intake manifold had the beginnings of a leak were reasons we traded it in. Oh, and a heater core on a S-10 or Blazer is a PITA. I looked at doing it myself and cringed as I helped a buddy do one on his 1998 Blazer. The guy who reversed flushed it said he'd do it but it wasn't cheap (several hundred $). |
| Probly a little late but, what we do is remove the heater hose from the top of the waterpump and the one that runs into the intake behind the alt. . Back flush with a garden hose through both hoses. this has worked on at least 95% of the ones I've done. If not , Preston makes a heavy duty flush in a little metal can. Add flush a let run. Be careful and flush the core again while still hot. If not , pull the dash. Alldata shows 9.2 for labor. |
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Quoted:
Probly a little late but, what we do is remove the heater hose from the top of the waterpump and the one that runs into the intake behind the alt. . Back flush with a garden hose through both hoses. this has worked on at least 95% of the ones I've done. If not , Preston makes a heavy duty flush in a little metal can. Add flush a let run. Be careful and flush the core again while still hot. If not , pull the dash. Alldata shows 9.2 for labor. Try this! |
| Heater cores suck, but It doesnt seem like the problem from your description. It sounds more like a flow problem either from the water pump or through the heater core hoses since you say neither hose heats up going to it. Check to see if they are kinked or swollen. Dexcool works good as long as its not mixed at any point during the life of the vehicle. Also diluting dexcool with regular water can cause scale deposits. Auto parts stores sell de ionized water right next to the dexcool for a reason. |
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I have a 99 s-10 and did the heater core on it.
I will never do that again lol it took me a weekend to do. I took my time and made sure i knew where everything was hook up. Alot of vacuum lines going to the heaer control unit. make sure you don't split any. Just take you time and when you get mad walk away for a few minutes then come back. Also on mine I have to remove the passanger side fender well there was 2 bolts behind there that had to be removed. GL man 
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