Posted: 9/19/2009 2:59:18 PM EDT
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hey guys i got a question for ya. i have an 03 chevy 2500hd that i recently put 305/55/20's underneath it. the torsion bars have been screwed in to lift the front end and i have trimmed fender well plastic but i am still experiencing tire rub. the tires only rub when i hit a bump while turning the truck or when im on an incline and turn my wheel. the tire shop that sold me the tires and wheels said i would have no issues with rubbing. i have been talking to them about the problem and this is what they have come up with 1. swap me out for smaller tires 2. install a lift/leveling kit i would be getting the same tire just slightly smaller in size. i guess thats not that big of a deal but im not sure that will fix the problem as far as the lift goes they want to install a ready lift ( http://www.readylift.com/c-37-silverado-15002500hd-2000-2009-2wd-4wd-8-lug-25.aspx ). it will cost me 400$ (50$ off) and that includes installation and an alignment i've read mixed reviews on that particular lift; a lot of guys also recommend the cognito lift for that truck ( http://www.norcaltruck.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=2_386&products_id=1066 ) what say ye arfcom? all info will be greatly appreciated. |
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Go smaller. If you've already cranked the torsions then UNcrank them, you do not do this and a REPUTABLE tire company would certainly know this.
Part of your problem is offset and the other is width of the larger tires, it's not just that they are taller. And many tire/rim shops will lie thru their teeth to make a sale, especially in todays economy. Never trust them and if they rub when put on, that is the time to tell them to take them back, You HAVE to also cycle the suspension thru normal travel movement also, static isn't good enough. I think 285s are the limit on these trucks without a lift and tossing a halfass one on it will give you halfass results. |
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No torsion key kit can "unstiffen" a ride on an already-cranked truck. All aftermarket keys do is have deeper indexing, allowing further "cranking" of the torsion keys versus the stock ones. There's many kits out there that claim they do, but it's all a crock of crap. The torsion bar is just a spring, and keys with more adjustment just torque the spring harder than stock keys with less adjustment. Most kits come with some forged keys and some cheap-o shocks that are a bit longer.
If you want to get more height but don't want to splurge for a suspension lift, you could buy "Green" keys from a half-ton Chevy to get extra torsion bar adjustment. You can grab a set at a dealer for $50 or so––Or you could go with aftermarket keys for your truck's model. This will give you the additional indexing to add height. There's nothing really wrong with doing it IMO up to about 2"––you can go up to 3" but that puts all the suspension and steering at bad angles, and makes them more prone to failure. If you do want to go higher than 2", you could get some Cognito UCA's (Upper control arms; Link to their UCA's) that correct ball-joint angles that come with large amounts of "crank." Buy some Bilstien 5150 shocks for 2" lift, and you should have a pretty decent ride again. edit: stocks != shocks. |
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You have changed the angle of your CV joints - they will probably fail prematurely along with your ball joints.
The correct way to do it is install a body lift kit and realign your bumpers; You need something like this top do it right If you intend to keep it with the torsion bars cranked, you can try punching a pair of holes in the black plastic wheel-well, then zip tie it back out of the way. |
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Quoted: No torsion key kit can "unstiffen" a ride on an already-cranked truck. All aftermarket keys do is have deeper indexing, allowing further "cranking" of the torsion keys versus the stock ones. There's many kits out there that claim they do, but it's all a crock of crap. The torsion bar is just a spring, and keys with more adjustment just torque the spring harder than stock keys with less adjustment. Most kits come with some forged keys and some cheap-o shocks that are a bit longer. If you want to get more height but don't want to splurge for a suspension lift, you could buy "Green" keys from a half-ton Chevy to get extra torsion bar adjustment. You can grab a set at a dealer for $50 or so––Or you could go with aftermarket keys for your truck's model. This will give you the additional indexing to add height. There's nothing really wrong with doing it IMO up to about 2"––you can go up to 3" but that puts all the suspension and steering at bad angles, and makes them more prone to failure. If you do want to go higher than 2", you could get some Cognito UCA's (Upper control arms; Link to their UCA's) that correct ball-joint angles that come with large amounts of "crank." Buy some Bilstien 5150 shocks for 2" lift, and you should have a pretty decent ride again. edit: stocks != shocks. i think what their plan was to un crank the torsion bars and then install the "green" keys. that would then inturn lift the front end without messing with the torsion bars. i looked at the cognito UCA's but was wondering if i still have to buy the keys to get the lift? as far as the bilsteins i already have them. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
No torsion key kit can "unstiffen" a ride on an already-cranked truck. All aftermarket keys do is have deeper indexing, allowing further "cranking" of the torsion keys versus the stock ones. There's many kits out there that claim they do, but it's all a crock of crap. The torsion bar is just a spring, and keys with more adjustment just torque the spring harder than stock keys with less adjustment. Most kits come with some forged keys and some cheap-o shocks that are a bit longer. If you want to get more height but don't want to splurge for a suspension lift, you could buy "Green" keys from a half-ton Chevy to get extra torsion bar adjustment. You can grab a set at a dealer for $50 or so––Or you could go with aftermarket keys for your truck's model. This will give you the additional indexing to add height. There's nothing really wrong with doing it IMO up to about 2"––you can go up to 3" but that puts all the suspension and steering at bad angles, and makes them more prone to failure. If you do want to go higher than 2", you could get some Cognito UCA's (Upper control arms; Link to their UCA's) that correct ball-joint angles that come with large amounts of "crank." Buy some Bilstien 5150 shocks for 2" lift, and you should have a pretty decent ride again. edit: stocks != shocks. i think what their plan was to un crank the torsion bars and then install the "green" keys. that would then inturn lift the front end without messing with the torsion bars. i looked at the cognito UCA's but was wondering if i still have to buy the keys to get the lift? as far as the bilsteins i already have them. No, it wouldn't. All torsion keys allow is greater cranking on the torsion bars. It does not lessen the strain or level of pre-load. Crawl under the truck and look at the keys and their relation to the torsion bar, and their position in the lower control arm up front; It's fairly obvious after viewing those that all keys do is allow greater adjustment. The spring twists at a constant/static rate. If you add 5lbs of torsion for .5" lift, and the stock keys only add 20lbs of torsion, you can get 2" lift; Adding keys that are more greatly indexed and allow for 30lbs of torsion allow 3" lift, but the spring isd simply just being torqued harder. (Numbers involved in that are no where near accurate. There's thousands of pounds of spring tension on those bars.) The UCA's don't create any lift, they just correct bad balljoint angles from adjusting torsion bars. |