Posted: 1/28/2008 9:10:08 AM EDT
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I'm new to the whole "do it yourself" car repair. I figure the only way I'm going to learn is to just do it. So my question is I'm going to change the spark plugs on my 1996 Ford Taurus and am wondering if you guys have any advice about procedure and things to look out for. Thanks in advanve Arnutt |
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even if the plugs come "pre-gapped", always check them before installing them. make sure the threads are clean and don't crossthread them. take your time, if the plugs don't start in easy, stop. don't overtighen them. if it's a transverse V6, the 3 plugs on the firewall side might be a real pain in the ass to get to, if it's a 4cyl it will take you about 20 minutes. |
| Do get a proper spark plug socket with a rubber insert that helps retain the plug in the socket. Do get a torque wrench for re-installing. I prefer the beam-type so I know how close I am to the recommended torque. I've had two properly-maintained clickers seize up on me and cause me to strip threads. |
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A big +1 on double checking the gaps even on pre-gapped plugs, seems like around 1/2 that I check are off. I like to use a tiny amount of anti-seize on each plug (like the size of a match head). If you can get easy access to the plugs it's not rocket science, go slow and make sure you're not cross-threading the plugs and don't over-torque them. |
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squirt the special spark plug socket with wd 40 on the inside, that way socket will come off the spark plug instead of sticking on it. Useful if you have deep well spark plug holes. Do one at a time, dont unplug all the plug wires, swap the plugs, then when done scratch your head figuring out which plug wire goes where |
my 98 sienna van has a transverse V6. I changed the front 3 plugs but cant get to the back 3. How do mechanics get to those damn things? Special tool, remove some more engine parts? |
You will need a 5/8 inch "tall" spark plug socket for overhead cam engines that have the plug tube reaching down to the cylinder. I recommend a Mac or Snap On. They fit well and the rubber insert holds the spark plug in them for removal and installation. Next you need 2 or 3 1" extensions to stack up so you can get the proper length so there is enough clearance to remove the socket and extension from under the intake plenum. A short 3/8" ratchet that is easy to reverse also helps. Remove the ground strap on the passenger side of the plenum. Also remove the PCV valve rubber tube and the PCV valve. If there is anything else in the way remove it. Carefully remove the spark plug wires from the black plastic guides. You can remove the guides too. This gives you some slack so you can reach in and twist the spark plug boots back and forth to break them loose. Be patient and pull up on the boots while twisting. You will have to reach under the plenum next to the throttle body to get to #3 cylinder. It looks tight but you can get your arm under it. After you get the boots and wires pulled up they will need to be tipped toward the firewall to clear the plenum. Just work them up and back. Tuck them up out of the way. Then you can work the socket and extension(s) into the spark plug tubes. I do it by the "braille method". The ratchet will have to be pulled off the extension so you can tip the socket in to and out of the spark plug tubes. Do the spark plugs one at a time. Be patient, all three have to be done by feel. Brush a bb sized dab of anti-seize on the spark plug threads. Also use some silicon dialectric grease on the spark plug boot where the tip of the spark plug pushes into the boot. Wipe a small amount on the boot where the boot seals the spark plug tube. Start the plugs by hand with the socket. Turn them in till you feel the seal snug up to the threaded hole. Then use the short ratchet to tighten the plug 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Reassemble and then replace the PCV valve while you are there. Just be patient and careful. It is not that hard of a job. You can install iridium spark plugs which are expensive but will last a long time. Use the recommmended plug in the NGK or ND spark plug catalog as they need the iridium on the ground and center electrodes. Write the mileage on the plenum along with the spark plug part number so some one won't replace them in 15,000 miles. |
Not necessarily. I don't put anti seize on any plugs. On Ford modular engines, with the only three or four threads they've got, I actually want the plug to kinda seize up in the head a little. Every one I've seen that's had a plug back off and blow out, tearing up the threads, someone used anti seize on them. |
Run them at .052-.056" gap. The factory torque spec is something like 25 ft/lbs, I run them down until they bottom out, then go another 1/8 to 1/4 turn. I've never had a problem. |
Magic 
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