2024 Subaru WRX (Page 2 of 22)
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Originally Posted By dangerranger61007: Good choice on not doing the muffler delete axlebacks, they sound like trash. No performance gain from an axleback btw. A full catback is little to no gain on FA24. Id do intake first if you want power and no tune. I don't know how much back pressure the stock mufflers add, but it must not be much if there's no performance gain with a straight-thru pipe. It seems like it'd help at least some, even if it's just with mileage, but I'm not an exhaust engineer. |
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Originally Posted By Hacksaw25: I bought a 2016 2 years ago. Haven't had a manual since my hopped-up Capris back in the 80s. My midlife crisis car! Fast enough for me, a blast on twisty back roads. The rear shelf buzz on mine was the 3rd brake light housing. Some 3/8s backer rod took care of that. Enjoy. https://i.ibb.co/rs6h3J1/4045a609bc254543b66e4405bea5d923.jpg The buzzing with the rear dash is that plastic shelf. It's thin which allows it to vibrate and resonate with certain environmental inputs. The solution is to install sound-deadening foam sheets under the plastic. I'm going to do that this morning. The process for accessing under that sheet seems fairly straight-forward. I already have the acoustic sheets. I will start with the underside of the plastic and then attach some to the bare steel under it where there is wiring. That should dampen the entire area. I also plan to add foam tape to the brake light assembly back there as well to make sure it remains quiet. |
| I wanted to try to get to the rear dash project this morning but it was artic cold outside. Because of course it was. It may have to wait until Sunday when we get out of the deep freeze. I did take the time to install the Cobb shift stop kit since I could do that with the doors closed. It's a pretty cool mod. It really tightens up the shifter and removes all of the slop. |
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I had a chance to work on the rear dash rattle/buzz issue this afternoon. It was a bit more involved than I had hoped it would be, but I was able to finally remove the plastic rear shelf and flip it over. Subaru seems to change the design of the rear dash every couple of years, presumably to try to get a handle on the rattling. The third high-mount brake light is now a part of the rear shelf itself, molded in, and not a separate part anymore. The light harness detaches under the panel on the driver-side C-pillar. And there doesn't seem to be any way to access the underside of the push-pins holding the plastic shelf in place. Removing the C-pillars is a bit tricky, although everything attaches and snaps into place with those white push pins that seem to easily break. Putting it all back together again is another challenge, especially with those push pins that seem to move out of position easily and won't set correctly. I eventually got it all back together and buttoned up again, at least I think so. When I had that plastic shelf upside down, I covered about 90% of the underside with a Dynamat-style acoustic padding. It's a rather time-intensive project. I also added some of the padding to the steel shelf underneath the plastic. The TPMS control box is bolted to the rear steel deck. It looked like it could rattle so I cut a small pad from the padding and placed it under the box. Getting that plastic shelf back into position was a serious pain. It would probably help to have at least one other person helping guide it back into place again. But, that being said, the effort was worth it. I went on a short test drive over some of the bumps that always previously caused a buzz/rattle from the rear deck. This time? Nothing. It's now completely quiet. I think that rear deck is way noisier than most people suspect. The sound bonces around and seems to be coming from all over the interior, but it's mostly just coming from that rear dash. The RPM buzzing that was bad around 2k is now completely gone as well. The entire car is much quieter now, even over rough pavement. I highly recommend installing that padding if you have a rear dash that's buzzing, rattling, and resonating. It really does make a world of difference. |
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https://www.torquenews.com/1084/crs-best-car-brands-and-most-reliable-cars-report-card-its-subaru-top-both-now Subaru is the top-ranked car brand in two essential categories. In the Consumer Reports' annual brand report card that measures factors including vehicle performance, safety, and reliability, Subaru leads both categories for the second time in four years. Automotive News says, "Subaru snared the top spot for best brand as well as reliability in Consumer Reports' 2025 rankings.” In the AN interview, Jake Fisher, Consumer Reports' senior director of auto testing said automakers following a more long-term strategy that isn't reworked every few years tend to perform better. Subaru's unique approach to car manufacturing, which involves staying the course, making incremental changes, and already having good competitive products, has positioned it to perform quite well, as Jake Fisher, Consumer Reports' senior director of auto testing, pointed out in an interview with Automotive News. "The more you change, the more errors can crop up," Fisher told Automotive News. "When you look at an automaker like Toyota or Subaru — which really stays the course, makes incremental changes, and already has good competitive products — they're really poised to do quite well." "Other automakers swing quite widely; there's a new platform, new powertrains, and that's where you wind up having reliability problems." Consumer Reports usually issues the car brand report card, which I cover every year in February, but has released the information ahead of schedule. CR's 2025 car brand report card is part of an updated data set that packages all its automotive rankings in one spot. Here are the surprising results. The 2025 Consumer Reports brand report card has Subaru at the top. Here are the top ten best car brands and their score. Subaru 82 BMW 78 Lexus 77 Porsche 77 Honda 75 Audi 74 Kia 73 Hyundai 73 Toyota 73 Infiniti 71 According to the Consumer Reports data, Subaru was also the best when measuring vehicle reliability. Consumer Reports says, ““While brand rankings can guide you to the showroom, it is critical to also look at reliability for specific models before making a purchase decision,” says Jake Fisher, senior director of auto testing at Consumer Reports. “Even within high-ranking companies, there can be significant variation in reliability.” Automotive News says, "It's the first time Subaru has claimed the No. 1 spot, which Lexus and Toyota have traded for the past five years.” Consumer Reports ranked the vehicle reliability of 22 brands based on feedback from owners. Here are the top ten most reliable car brands and their score. Subaru 68 Lexus 65 Toyota 62 Honda 59 Acura 55 Mazda 55 Audi 54 BMW 53 Kia 51 Hyundai 50 This year's survey covers 20 areas of potential problems, including engine, electric motors, transmission, and electronics. Consumer Reports gathered data on about 300,000 vehicles from the 2000 to 2024 model years, plus a few newly introduced 2025 models. |
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Enjoy your warranty for its entirety! No engine mods (intake, tune, jpipe, headers, intercooler, etc), and make sure you keep receipts and a log of your oil changes if you're doing it somewhere besides the dealer. Subaru will definitely request evidence of maintenance if you ever need warranty work. I highly recommend you invest in an aftermarket short shifter, shift stop, and shifter bushing. I did the factory STI short shifter, Perrin shift stop and bushing on my WRX. I should have gone aftermarket for a more drastic short shifter but it's fine for now. Regardless, those upgrades were awesome. If you don't mind racecar noises and feel (NVH), you can also do a pitch stop and trans mount. The factory Dunlops also gotta go if you have those. |
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Originally Posted By RayFromJersey: Enjoy your warranty for its entirety! No engine mods (intake, tune, jpipe, headers, intercooler, etc), and make sure you keep receipts and a log of your oil changes if you're doing it somewhere besides the dealer. Subaru will definitely request evidence of maintenance if you ever need warranty work. I highly recommend you invest in an aftermarket short shifter, shift stop, and shifter bushing. I did the factory STI short shifter, Perrin shift stop and bushing on my WRX. I should have gone aftermarket for a more drastic short shifter but it's fine for now. Regardless, those upgrades were awesome. If you don't mind racecar noises and feel (NVH), you can also do a pitch stop and trans mount. The factory Dunlops also gotta go if you have those. I installed an axle back exhaust but I don't think I can be denied warranty work for that. It got the Remark R1 set with the resonators on them. I really like them. It makes a nice growl without being as loud and raspy like the muffler deletes. No drone and easy as pie to install. I also installed the Cobb shift stop. That makes a huge difference with shifting. I also got a Blox shift knob that's a bit heavier than the stock one. I saw one that Grimmsport makes that I might like better. I usually keep receipts when I do oil changes, although I'm not using the 0w20 that Subaru is forced to recommend (EPA) and not for the long intervals, either. The minimum I would run would be 0w30 or 5w30 because of the turbo. I've heard people talk about the short shifter, although I like the shifter as it is. I'm curious about replacing the shifter bushing, though, if you want to tell me more. What kind of difference does the mod make? ETA: One thing that's annoying is that Android Auto disconnects while I'm listening to it. It happens a LOT. On a 45 minute drive, it disconnected three times. It's a hassle trying to get it to reconnect. I need to google that and see if there's a solution. The OEM radio cannot be replaced, so hopefully there is a solution to this problem. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I think I do have the Dunlops. I'll have to check in the morning when I leave to go to work. They seem like okay tires. The car handles very well. I've read that the factory tires don't last very long. I don't know if that's with aggressive driving or even with easy driving. I installed an axle back exhaust but I don't think I can be denied warranty work for that. It got the Remark R1 set with the resonators on them. I really like them. It makes a nice growl without being as loud and raspy like the muffler deletes. No drone and easy as pie to install. I also installed the Cobb shift stop. That makes a huge difference with shifting. I also got a Blox shift knob that's a bit heavier than the stock one. I saw one that Grimmsport makes that I might like better. I usually keep receipts when I do oil changes, although I'm not using the 0w20 that Subaru is forced to recommend (EPA) and not for the long intervals, either. The minimum I would run would be 0w30 or 5w30 because of the turbo. I've heard people talk about the short shifter, although I like the shifter as it is. I'm curious about replacing the shifter bushing, though, if you want to tell me more. What kind of difference does the mod make? ETA: One thing that's annoying is that Android Auto disconnects while I'm listening to it. It happens a LOT. On a 45 minute drive, it disconnected three times. It's a hassle trying to get it to reconnect. I need to google that and see if there's a solution. The OEM radio cannot be replaced, so hopefully there is a solution to this problem. The Dunlops that came on my 2023 are soft sticky summer tires. No good at all in cold weather, so I pulled mine off with < 100 miles and put Michelin all season tires on. Too much cold weather here in New England to run summer tires year 'round. Regarding Android, have you checked to see that your infotainment software is up to date? |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: The Dunlops that came on my 2023 are soft sticky summer tires. No good at all in cold weather, so I pulled mine off with < 100 miles and put Michelin all season tires on. Too much cold weather here in New England to run summer tires year 'round. Regarding Android, have you checked to see that your infotainment software is up to date? Originally Posted By Emoto: The Dunlops that came on my 2023 are soft sticky summer tires. No good at all in cold weather, so I pulled mine off with < 100 miles and put Michelin all season tires on. Too much cold weather here in New England to run summer tires year 'round. Regarding Android, have you checked to see that your infotainment software is up to date? Over the weekend, I pulled the rear plastic dash cover off again to inspect the sound-dampening mats I installed the week before, and to make sure I put it all back together correctly. Everything looked good. I added some more padding on some places I had skipped, just to be thorough. It seems to have really worked well. The back dash is completely quiet now. No more buzzing or rattling at all. I am planning to add some of that sound dampening to the bottom of the trunk too. Lol, I think Subaru knows what the problem is and how to fix it. For some reason, they don't want to. It's a bit of a process to do it correctly and my guess is corporate doesn't want to pay the dealerships to do it the right way. Are you connecting your phone wirelessly, or with a USB cable? |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: My radio did a big update not long ago. So, I don't think it's that. I saw a You Tube video from a guy who said that he fixed the problem by putting his phone in USB debug mode. I am trying that out to see if it makes a difference. It's acting like a flaky Bluetooth connection. Over the weekend, I pulled the rear plastic dash cover off again to inspect the sound-dampening mats I installed the week before, and to make sure I put it all back together correctly. Everything looked good. I added some more padding on some places I had skipped, just to be thorough. It seems to have really worked well. The back dash is completely quiet now. No more buzzing or rattling at all. I am planning to add some of that sound dampening to the bottom of the trunk too. Lol, I think Subaru knows what the problem is and how to fix it. For some reason, they don't want to. It's a bit of a process to do it correctly and my guess is corporate doesn't want to pay the dealerships to do it the right way. Are you connecting your phone wirelessly, or with a USB cable? |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I'm curious about replacing the shifter bushing, though, if you want to tell me more. What kind of difference does the mod make? Replacing it with a metal aftermarket bushing cleans up the slop a little bit, and also makes getting in/out of gear feel more precise. |
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Originally Posted By RayFromJersey: The factory bushing is soft and rubbery, which is one of the causes for a "sloppy" feeling shifter. Replacing it with a metal aftermarket bushing cleans up the slop a little bit, and also makes getting in/out of gear feel more precise. It looks like the new bushing uses a lot of grease on it? Maybe white lithium grease? |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Per your advice, I ordered a Perrin brass bushing. I was hoping the bushing was accessed from the top near the shifter. However, it requires getting under the car, lol. I have ramps I can use to squeeze under and swap out the bushing. It looks like the new bushing uses a lot of grease on it? Maybe white lithium grease? Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Originally Posted By RayFromJersey: The factory bushing is soft and rubbery, which is one of the causes for a "sloppy" feeling shifter. Replacing it with a metal aftermarket bushing cleans up the slop a little bit, and also makes getting in/out of gear feel more precise. It looks like the new bushing uses a lot of grease on it? Maybe white lithium grease? |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Are you connecting your phone wirelessly, or with a USB cable? |
| The 2023s don't have wireless AA connectivity. I always connect the phone to the car via a USB A to C cable. Maybe turn off the wifi and BT on the car and it will then accept the cable connection? I don't listen to music or anything else off my phone. For music, I have SiriusXM and if I want to, I can connect an iPod with 160GB of music, although I haven't felt the need. Maybe I will if I take a long road trip. I also have a flash drive with a bunch of music on it but I don't like the way the car navigates that. |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: The 2023s don't have wireless AA connectivity. I always connect the phone to the car via a USB A to C cable. Maybe turn off the wifi and BT on the car and it will then accept the cable connection? I don't listen to music or anything else off my phone. For music, I have SiriusXM and if I want to, I can connect an iPod with 160GB of music, although I haven't felt the need. Maybe I will if I take a long road trip. I also have a flash drive with a bunch of music on it but I don't like the way the car navigates that. I've tried to get AA to connect with a cable but the moment I turn off even WiFi, the radio starts to complain about not being able to connect with AA. The radio seems to want both Bluetooth and WiFi connected. The car also acts as a WiFi hotspot. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Come to think of it, the Base model before about mid-2024 came with a different head unit. You have the split-screen radio. By the time I got my WRX, Subaru had started putting the 11" head unit (that comes with the Premium) in the Base model. It has wireless AA connectivity. I've tried to get AA to connect with a cable but the moment I turn off even WiFi, the radio starts to complain about not being able to connect with AA. The radio seems to want both Bluetooth and WiFi connected. The car also acts as a WiFi hotspot. Mine is the 2023 Limited trim, so it has the 11" system. Have you grabbed the giant electronic version of the manual from subaru.com? It may be a separate file for the infotainment system. There could be something in there about how to attach with a cable. Did you try turning off BT and wifi on the phone and the car system, then hooking up with a cable? I bought the 3-year SiriusXM plan for $99 and am happy with the music and other stuff that gives me. You have to call them and tell them you want the "36for99SELECT " plan. They may have to put you on hold and ask supervisor, etc., but eventually they'll sell that to you. With taxes and fees it comes to about $3/month, which I am ok with. Cheapest deal I could find. |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Mine is the 2023 Limited trim, so it has the 11" system. Have you grabbed the giant electronic version of the manual from subaru.com? It may be a separate file for the infotainment system. There could be something in there about how to attach with a cable. Did you try turning off BT and wifi on the phone and the car system, then hooking up with a cable? I bought the 3-year SiriusXM plan for $99 and am happy with the music and other stuff that gives me. You have to call them and tell them you want the "36for99SELECT " plan. They may have to put you on hold and ask supervisor, etc., but eventually they'll sell that to you. With taxes and fees it comes to about $3/month, which I am ok with. Cheapest deal I could find. I need to call Sirius and renegotiate my contact. I'm paying almost $50 a month for service to two radios. I think I'm getting hosed. I'm still on my three month Sirius trial for the WRX. I may cancel altogether and then wait a few months when they offer some crazy deal for all three radios. What say you? |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Ah, okay. But you still must have a different version of the head unit I have because I have wireless AA. I believe I've tried turning off Bluetooth as well but I can try again tomorrow and make sure. I get that wireless everything is the wave of the future but it seems odd that there'd be no wired option. Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Ah, okay. But you still must have a different version of the head unit I have because I have wireless AA. I believe I've tried turning off Bluetooth as well but I can try again tomorrow and make sure. I get that wireless everything is the wave of the future but it seems odd that there'd be no wired option. Yes, it differs in not offering wireless AA.Maybe there are other changes, too. I do not believe that it cannot be connected with a cable. There must be some setting or combination of settings to make it work that is not intuitive. Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I need to call Sirius and renegotiate my contact. I'm paying almost $50 a month for service to two radios. I think I'm getting hosed. I'm still on my three month Sirius trial for the WRX. I may cancel altogether and then wait a few months when they offer some crazy deal for all three radios. What say you? I've had a few vehicles with SiriusXM over quite a few years. The 3 year deal I mentioned above is the best I have ever managed to find or get. If you can do better, please share what you find. I am happy to have a plan that means I don't have to talk to them for 3 years. Dealing with them every freaking year pissed me off. |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Yes, it differs in not offering wireless AA.Maybe there are other changes, too. I do not believe that it cannot be connected with a cable. There must be some setting or combination of settings to make it work that is not intuitive. I've had a few vehicles with SiriusXM over quite a few years. The 3 year deal I mentioned above is the best I have ever managed to find or get. If you can do better, please share what you find. I am happy to have a plan that means I don't have to talk to them for 3 years. Dealing with them every freaking year pissed me off. I finally got my new amp installed, with the boxed 6x9 speakers in the back footwells. That was an adventure. I got most of the wiring done yesterday. I was able to get a power wire through that unused firewall grommet on the driver's side. I tapped into the front/dash speakers which are full-range. I finished up so late this afternoon, I didn't have any time to play around with it. I still need to tweak the gain for the factory system. But it sounds really good so far. I did run into a weird issue. I didn't want to have to mess with a remote wire so I used the high level inputs on the amp. It seemed to work well. The amp would turn on immediately. However, even after I turned the key off and removed it, the amp remained on. This concerned me since it would be a heck of a parasitic drain on the battery if it failed to turn off. I removed the inline fuse until I could figure it out. I finally realized what was going on. If you do anything with the car, including unlocking the doors, it will turn the amp on. If there is any electrical activity, it will turn the amp on. I closed the doors, locked them, and turned on the security system while I watched the amp light. It remained on for about 45 seconds, then went out. So, the amp will auto-shut off but it takes about a minute for it to happen. That threw me off a bit. I could not figure out why the amp wasn't shutting off immediately. You just have to close everything up and the amp will then shut down. I'm looking forward to tuning the new sound. |
| Here are all of your manuals: https://www.subaru.com/owners/vehicle-resources.html?model=2024-WRX-RUA |
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@TheLASwamp Grats on the new VB! and welcome to the club. New short block out if ya want to get wild   NEW IAG FA24 SHORT BLOCKS |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Here are all of your manuals: https://www.subaru.com/owners/vehicle-resources.html?model=2024-WRX-RUA I managed to get the shifter bushing installed. Man, that was not fun. Even with ramps, it was quite difficult to get under the car far enough to reach the bushing. The area the bushing is in is pretty cramped, too. Most people say the factory rubber bushing comes out easy and the brass bushing is a pain to get in. I had the opposite problem. It took about 30 minutes to get the factory bushing to pop out. I then put the Perrin bushing on the spindle and the metal loop quickly slipped right on without any problem. I like the feel of the shifting with the Perrin bushing. It's subtle but it's very noticeable. The shifting is now very snick-snick and feels far more precise. I am going to try a new pitch stop too. I've heard the mod makes a big difference in how the car drives. The factory shift from 1st to 2nd gear is hard to do smoothly. I have to really feather the clutch to keep the car from jerking. The pitch stop is supposed to help with that. I picked the cp-e part with the rubber bushings. It's supposed to be a bit milder than the Perrin and Cobb parts with their polyurethane bushings. A lot of people also swap out the transmission mount with a stiffer Group N part but I think I'm going to pass on that, at least for now. It looks even harder to get to than the shifter bushing. You really need a lift to get it done efficiently. |
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Originally Posted By TripleC: @TheLASwamp Grats on the new VB! and welcome to the club. New short block out if ya want to get wild  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uypyHOkjRdU |
| I finally had a somewhat lengthy time behind the wheel to try out AA with a cable connected and both BT and Wi-Fi turned on. I was able to stream a podcast the entire way home. No disconnections. I think the head unit prioritizes the wired connection but you still have to leave BT and Wi-Fi turned on. So, I think the solution is to run a wired connection if I don't want any interruptions. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I finally had a somewhat lengthy time behind the wheel to try out AA with a cable connected and both BT and Wi-Fi turned on. I was able to stream a podcast the entire way home. No disconnections. I think the head unit prioritizes the wired connection but you still have to leave BT and Wi-Fi turned on. So, I think the solution is to run a wired connection if I don't want any interruptions.  --- I had done an oil & filter change on mine at 1000 miles, so decided to have the dealer do one next, so they could see it and look it over. Dumbasses overfilled the oil by about half a quart. 
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Originally Posted By Emoto: --- I had done an oil & filter change on mine at 1000 miles, so decided to have the dealer do one next, so they could see it and look it over. Dumbasses overfilled the oil by about half a quart. I ordered a pitch stop over a week ago but it still hasn't shipped. It must be a bad time of the year to order parts like that. Just getting stuff to ship is a bear. I might order another one since Blox Racing has theirs on sale for $40, regular price over $100. I'm waiting for a response from them about the Durometer ratings on their bushings. It it's anything above 75A, I'll probably pass. I'm hoping it's 65-70. The cp-e part uses 70A bushings, which is a good compromise. I also picked up a catch can. The install on that looks like fun, ugh. I'll try to install that when I install the pitch stop mount. I'd like to try a new transmission mount but you really need a lift to get under the car for that project. All I have is ramps and you're pretty limited with what you can do under the car with just ramps. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: You'd think they would know the correct capacity. It sounds like they put about 5.5 quarts in it if they went a half-quart over. The engine holds a bit under 5 quarts. I don't think they harmed anything, although I would not go over 5 quarts. Did they put 30w oil in it or did they use the 20w? This time of year, I'd be less apprehensive about using such thin oil in the VB. In summer, there is no way I'd even consider it. I've seen that people are using 5w40, which probably isn't a bad idea especially in the hotter areas of the country. I ordered a pitch stop over a week ago but it still hasn't shipped. It must be a bad time of the year to order parts like that. Just getting stuff to ship is a bear. I might order another one since Blox Racing has theirs on sale for $40, regular price over $100. I'm waiting for a response from them about the Durometer ratings on their bushings. It it's anything above 75A, I'll probably pass. I'm hoping it's 65-70. The cp-e part uses 70A bushings, which is a good compromise. I also picked up a catch can. The install on that looks like fun, ugh. I'll try to install that when I install the pitch stop mount. I'd like to try a new transmission mount but you really need a lift to get under the car for that project. All I have is ramps and you're pretty limited with what you can do under the car with just ramps. They put in the 0w-20, so that part was ok. I replied to the "how was your service" email detailing the overfill and pointing out that overfilling increases crankcase pressure, which is not what you want in a boxer engine. This was part of the response: "Regarding your oil level, it should be checked when warm but not hot. The oil level for each specific vehicle is set on an automatic filler. So it's not likely the incorrect amount was added. Half a quart is not going to damage the car short term and we'll be happy to check it for you and make any adjustment if necessary. We just need about twenty minutes for the motor to cool down, maybe a half an hour total, and you don't need an appointment." So, I'll be in there some day soon to have the level adjusted. This is my first Subaru, but my 4th boxer motor, so I am not a novice at checking my oil level. Edit: I'll be interested in how you like the things you are adding. |
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Forgot to ask. Does your '24 have sun visors that can extend out to the side? If not, and you want that, Impreza sun visors are a direct replacement and have a plastic part that slides out about 4 or 5". Pry off a plastic cover and it is 2 #2 phillips screws and an electrical connector to do the swap. Part Number Side 92011FL071JC Left / Driver 92011FL061JC Right / Passenger Shop around online and you can find them for about $70 a piece. Used, from a boneyard would be cheaper. |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: They put in the 0w-20, so that part was ok. I replied to the "how was your service" email detailing the overfill and pointing out that overfilling increases crankcase pressure, which is not what you want in a boxer engine. This was part of the response: "Regarding your oil level, it should be checked when warm but not hot. The oil level for each specific vehicle is set on an automatic filler. So it's not likely the incorrect amount was added. Half a quart is not going to damage the car short term and we'll be happy to check it for you and make any adjustment if necessary. We just need about twenty minutes for the motor to cool down, maybe a half an hour total, and you don't need an appointment." So, I'll be in there some day soon to have the level adjusted. This is my first Subaru, but my 4th boxer motor, so I am not a novice at checking my oil level. Edit: I'll be interested in how you like the things you are adding. I've been doing my own oil changes for a long time for just that reason, to make sure it's done right. Also, I really like choosing exactly what oil I want to use. I can even mix and match oil if I want to experiment a bit. Right now, I'm using Shell Rotella Gas Truck 5w30. My WRX runs pretty smoothly on it. I didn't use anything fancy given I'm going to only put about 3k miles on it before changing it again since the engine is still new. I've seen some folks blending half 5w30 with half 5w40 to get a hybrid weight. Or even using a 0w30/40 for hot climates. That sounds like it would make for a good summer blend. It gets hotter than miserable here in the summer and I deal with a lot of traffic. I'm just really leery of using 20w oil in a turbo engine. Especially since I know it's an EPA demand rather than what is best for the engine. I've never really trusted dealership service departments and I still don't. I've heard a lot of good things about aftermarket pitch stops. I get that herky-jerky motion with 1-2 gear shifts. That is the motor rocking back and forth on the factory pitch stop. The OEM part is soft and flexible. It absorbs some of the engine noise and vibration but introduces slop in the engine movement. The aftermarket parts are much more rigid and hold the engine in place far better during shifts. That, along with the other mods like the brass shifter bushing and the shift stop, is supposed to really clean up the feel of the transmission. The last big part change for the mod package (after the pitch stop) is the transmission mount under the car. The OEM one is soft and flexible. It creates some slop due to being soft. A firmer one (like the Group N mount) makes a very noticeable difference in feel. I am on the fence about that one since all of these mods, together, take aware some of the NVH insulation. And the transmission mount is hard to get to if you don't have access to a lift. It could be done with ramps, but it looks like it would be a real hassle. Just replacing the shifter bushing was a PITA. A lift would have made the job much faster and easier. But we'll see. I ordered an intercooler a week before Thanksgiving and it still haven't shipped. And I have hazy, nebulous information about when it will. No info on the pitch stop shipping. Trying to get parts shipped is a challenge all to itself, it seems. |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Forgot to ask. Does your '24 have sun visors that can extend out to the side? If not, and you want that, Impreza sun visors are a direct replacement and have a plastic part that slides out about 4 or 5". Pry off a plastic cover and it is 2 #2 phillips screws and an electrical connector to do the swap. Part Number Side 92011FL071JC Left / Driver 92011FL061JC Right / Passenger Shop around online and you can find them for about $70 a piece. Used, from a boneyard would be cheaper. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Lol, one of the first things I noticed was that the visors do not slide out like the ones on my Titan. And that's a feature I use quite a bit. My WRX does not have the lighted vanity mirrors. I'd like that feature but I do not know if I have the wiring harness installed. It'd be pretty boss if I do. I would do the swap. Ok, yeah my Limited has the little vanity mirrors with the light on the sun visors. There might be an equivalent Impreza visor for the Base or Premium trims without the light, that would cost less. You could check to see if you have the connector. Just pop off the little plastic cover and unscrew the 2 screws then pull off the visor and poke around to see if you can find a little connector up in there. This reddit post where I learned about the Impreza visors has some pictures of the connectors: https://www.reddit.com/r/wrx_vb/comments/1ebjbtr/oem_sun_visor_that_extends/ |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Ok, yeah my Limited has the little vanity mirrors with the light on the sun visors. There might be an equivalent Impreza visor for the Base or Premium trims without the light, that would cost less. You could check to see if you have the connector. Just pop off the little plastic cover and unscrew the 2 screws then pull off the visor and poke around to see if you can find a little connector up in there. This reddit post where I learned about the Impreza visors has some pictures of the connectors: https://www.reddit.com/r/wrx_vb/comments/1ebjbtr/oem_sun_visor_that_extends/ |
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I decided to replace the factory door speakers. I have the base model stereo and the speakers are supposed to be a weak spot in the system. I replaced the dash speakers and it made a pretty big difference in sound. The front door speakers are supposed to be 6.5" drivers in a 6x9 bracket. I picked out some Kicker 6x9 speakers as a replacement. The process was fairly straightforward for the most part. The door panels have only 2 screws and some of those pop panel clips holding it on. Once you get the wiring harnesses and cable connections disconnected, the panel can be removed. I used the opportunity to install some more sound deadening inside the door and on the inside of the panel. I don't know if that made any difference but I don't think it hurt. The Kicker model sounds a lot better. Much richer sound and with more bass. The head unit doesn't have much power but it has enough to drive the Kickers okay. I discovered that instead of a 6.5" driver in the door, I had a full 6x9 full-range factory speaker. None of the videos I've seen shows that. They all have the 6.5" driver. I don't know when Subaru changed the speaker. The '24 seems to have a few surprises the older VB models don't have. I'd bet the 6x9 factory speakers have a lot more bass than the 6.5" does. I presume the rear doors still have the smaller driver. The factory 6x9 speakers are so light, you can pick them up with 2 fingers. The Kickers are, as you can imagine, much heavier. |
| Glad you found a way to improve the sound. My Limited has the Harmon-Kardon premium audio system, which I suppose is a step up from what the Base and Premium have. It sounds ok, but not fantastic. I wish it had an EQ to adjust the sound more to my liking. |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Glad you found a way to improve the sound. My Limited has the Harmon-Kardon premium audio system, which I suppose is a step up from what the Base and Premium have. It sounds ok, but not fantastic. I wish it had an EQ to adjust the sound more to my liking. I think the problem with the HK option is the same as it always is with factory premium systems, i.e., not enough power. I have the Rockford Fosgate factory system in my Titan. I've never been impressed with it, mainly, because it still lacks power. I have a 200w factory amp but you have to remember, that amp drives ten speakers, one of them a sub. That only means about 10w per channel, which is bad even by older standards. The system needs about three times that power to sound fairly decent. I added a 600w amp driving four 6x9 speakers and now it sounds pretty good. I had a Mazda 6 with the Bose package back in 2003. Same issue. The amp needed more power. I never could hear the sub, even with the bass turned all the way up. I began to wonder if it was even connected, lol. What's the speaker layout with the HK system? I know it includes a sub on the back deck. What are the other speaker locations? I know the dash speakers are a weird ohm rating which limits what can replace them. |
| I'm not entirely sure about all the speakers. All 4 doors have something, each corner of the dash, and the sub on the back deck. Apparently, some of these count as more than one because the total is supposed to be 11 speakers. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By Emoto: I'm not entirely sure about all the speakers. All 4 doors have something, each corner of the dash, and the sub on the back deck. Apparently, some of these count as more than one because the total is supposed to be 11 speakers. The dash speakers for the HK system are an unusual ohm rating as well. I'm glad I have the base radio. It seems to be much easier to upgrade components. My guess is that the HK system isn't designed to be upgraded since it's the upgrade itself. |
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Just came home with a white 24 WRX today Limited trim; I wanted leather and all that. It's got less than 60 miles on the odo...so far the only things I've noticed is wireless Carplay seems iffy - and the shifter seems...soft. It's been a few years since I rowed the gears so it might just be me needing to get used to it again. Edit - the first two things I'm considering changing is adding a Perrin shift stop kit (I had one in my Crosstrek, it was a noticable quality of life change), and an oil catch can/kit. I guess my question is, is an oil catch can worth it? I had one in my last 5.7 Hemi Ram and it would fill with oil every few weeks it seemed. On a direct injected forced induction engine it seems like it'd be a really nice thing to have, but...I'm not a super motorhead
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"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: Just came home with a white 24 WRX today Limited trim; I wanted leather and all that. It's got less than 60 miles on the odo...so far the only things I've noticed is wireless Carplay seems iffy - and the shifter seems...soft. It's been a few years since I rowed the gears so it might just be me needing to get used to it again. Edit - the first two things I'm considering changing is adding a Perrin shift stop kit (I had one in my Crosstrek, it was a noticable quality of life change), and an oil catch can/kit. I guess my question is, is an oil catch can worth it? I had one in my last 5.7 Hemi Ram and it would fill with oil every few weeks it seemed. On a direct injected forced induction engine it seems like it'd be a really nice thing to have, but...I'm not a super motorhead The shifting, out of the box, is a bit mushy. I have the Cobb shift stop and the Perrin shifter bushing. Both make a very noticeable difference. The factory bushing is soft rubber and the Perrin is brass. I'm also going to replace the factory pitch stop which should help even more. I've read swapping out the transmission mount with a more rigid Type N part also makes a dramatic difference, and the part is pretty cheap. However, you really need a lift to be able to get far enough under the car to comfortably do the swap. Swapping out the shifter bushing was difficult using just ramps. These cars are serious rabbit holes if you like modding. They make parts for literally every section of the car. The real challenge is deciding where you want to stop because there is always another set of parts you can swap out and another set of mods you can do. I changed the engine oil at 700 miles with a 5w30 since I don't trust the 5w20 factory fill. A lot of people change their rear diff and transmission oil fairly early with Motul Gear 300 which I have read makes a pretty big difference in shift feel as well. And all of that is before you get into the very large range of tuning options that are available for the WRX. I have a Radium catch can sitting in the lab ready to be installed. The intercooler has to come off for the install so I was waiting for the pitch stop so I could do it all at once. I have a new intercooler on order but I have no idea when it's coming in. The catch can install doesn't look too bad, although you have to cut into a factory hose which I'm not too happy about. I may order an extra hose and just use that for the modification. Some people say a catch can isn't necessary but I think it depends on the level of mods you have and the climate you live in. I'd like to delay having to clean the valves so I will install the one I have. Apparently, the valves get really nasty and have to be cleaned at about 40-60k miles or you lose power and efficiency. That is due to the direct injection design. Cleaning them is a bit of a hassle from what I've read. Post some pics of your ride! |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: The wireless features on the radio are a bit flaky, especially with connectivity. I use AA and it disconnects fairly often. I've found that using the wired connection seems to stabilize that. It kinda defeats the purpose of the wireless connection, but it's more reliable to connect that way. The shifting, out of the box, is a bit mushy. I have the Cobb shift stop and the Perrin shifter bushing. Both make a very noticeable difference. The factory bushing is soft rubber and the Perrin is brass. I'm also going to replace the factory pitch stop which should help even more. I've read swapping out the transmission mount with a more rigid Type N part also makes a dramatic difference, and the part is pretty cheap. However, you really need a lift to be able to get far enough under the car to comfortably do the swap. Swapping out the shifter bushing was difficult using just ramps. These cars are serious rabbit holes if you like modding. They make parts for literally every section of the car. The real challenge is deciding where you want to stop because there is always another set of parts you can swap out and another set of mods you can do. I changed the engine oil at 700 miles with a 5w30 since I don't trust the 5w20 factory fill. A lot of people change their rear diff and transmission oil fairly early with Motul Gear 300 which I have read makes a pretty big difference in shift feel as well. And all of that is before you get into the very large range of tuning options that are available for the WRX. I have a Radium catch can sitting in the lab ready to be installed. The intercooler has to come off for the install so I was waiting for the pitch stop so I could do it all at once. I have a new intercooler on order but I have no idea when it's coming in. The catch can install doesn't look too bad, although you have to cut into a factory hose which I'm not too happy about. I may order an extra hose and just use that for the modification. Some people say a catch can isn't necessary but I think it depends on the level of mods you have and the climate you live in. I'd like to delay having to clean the valves so I will install the one I have. Apparently, the valves get really nasty and have to be cleaned at about 40-60k miles or you lose power and efficiency. That is due to the direct injection design. Cleaning them is a bit of a hassle from what I've read. Post some pics of your ride! Yeah I was doing some light reading last night...a bunch of people recommend the catch can only if you really plan on tracking the car - that's not something I plan on doing though keeping the intake clean is a "want" for sure. However - all the catch can installs seem ...intrusive and/or destructive; one of them, I think it was the Perrin, the instructions have you literally break a part off so you can insert something inbetween the two parts to feed a component of the catch can - that's a bit...permanent. Lesson I learned a while ago - read the install directions before buying a part to find out how much bullshit it's going to inflict On the Ram that I installed a catch can on, it was pretty easy; pop off two hoses, mount catch can in the middle, attach hoses to catch can...that was it; about as non-invasive as it gets. It just seems odd to me that doing the same on the Subaru is way more involved, but Ed pawn in game of turbo Subarus.Where I live (MN)...switching to 5w30 probably isn't a great idea; winter is problematic really, 0w20 is probably a better bet especially this time of year, where right now it's 4f outside. I know a lot of the oil recommendations stem from CAFE and trying to squeeze that extra mpg and emissions out of it, so a lot of the time it's thinner than it really needs to be but...I'm not sold on 5w30 just yet for where I live.I went down a youtube rabbithole of intakes, etc - apparently the Perrin actually gives a good bump in numbers (like 25hp, and a little more torque) without needing a tune - some of the other intakes lean things out too much for the tuner guy who was doing the video:  Which Intake Makes The Most Power? 2022 Subaru WRX Intake Shootout! One of the intakes, WITH a tune, gave you something close to a 100hp bump to ~340 and > 400 of torque. Insane for a drop in part and a tune! This is my 4th Soobaroo all told (2 Crosstreks and a 3.6 Legacy) so I'm not altogether unfamiliar with them though this is my first turbo. On my last Crosstrek I installed a Perrin shift stop which did make a pretty good upgrade to how it felt; took out a lot of slop between 1st and 2nd. I didn't do the bushing or anything because I really don't have a good workspace to get under the car...I guess it's time I bought some ramps or jack stands. I've got less than 100 miles on it so I'm probably getting ahead of myself I need to drive it a good bit more before I start making changes. I've got a front license plate relocation bracket on order (the guy at the dealer said he's not drilling the bumper unless I demand it, and to just get a relocation bracket - which I agreed with), stickers on order (which I can't really apply until it gets warm out ) and I've got Blizzaks coming in the next week or so; the dealer was $25/tire cheaper than all the other local places and even less expensive than TireRack, and for $49 they'll swap the rubber on my existing wheels (all 4). I just need to empty my trunk to drive the unmounted tires back home. If I had any one real gripe, it's the spare tire situation - I was 2/3rds of the way through the paperwork when I asked about it, "oh there's a fix-a-flat kit in the trunk"...as someone who's lost tires in the middle of 1200 mile road trips, that didn't fill me with cheer, but I'll figure out a plan B for it at some point. Maybe set it up as a rally car and mount it on the hood or something Which reminds me, I should see if anyone makes lift kits for these things...putting on some beefy AT tires and setting it up like a gonzo rally car would be kinda cool... |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: Just came home with a white 24 WRX today Limited trim; I wanted leather and all that. It's got less than 60 miles on the odo...so far the only things I've noticed is wireless Carplay seems iffy - and the shifter seems...soft. It's been a few years since I rowed the gears so it might just be me needing to get used to it again. Edit - the first two things I'm considering changing is adding a Perrin shift stop kit (I had one in my Crosstrek, it was a noticable quality of life change), and an oil catch can/kit. I guess my question is, is an oil catch can worth it? I had one in my last 5.7 Hemi Ram and it would fill with oil every few weeks it seemed. On a direct injected forced induction engine it seems like it'd be a really nice thing to have, but...I'm not a super motorhead  Pics? 
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Proud and grateful Tennessee Squire
flgfish: "Low mileage cars piss me off. You saving your girlfriend for the next guy? Drive the car and enjoy it. A 911 is damn near bulletproof."
flgfish: "Low mileage cars piss me off. You saving your girlfriend for the next guy? Drive the car and enjoy it. A 911 is damn near bulletproof."
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Evil_Ed, congrats on the new WRX! Mine is a '23, also a Limited. I have not made any mechanical mods to mine as of yet and have mixed feelings about mods in general. Am enjoying it stock so far. For the spare, you have options. You can fit a full sized wheel and tire in the well in the trunk but you will have to cut the styrofoam trunk floor to fit over it. Used OEM wheels/tire can be found easily. I picked up a secondhand STi 18" temporary spare and Impreza styrofoam so that I would not have to rely on the fix a flat kit. I made a little web page with all the info here. The biggest concern (to me) is running unequal sized tires if I do need to run the spare, which might overheat or damage the center diff. It isn't exactly the size of the regular wheel so I would want to keep speeds down and basically go directly to a tire shop. Maybe for a long trip, it makes more sense to have a full-sized spare, I dunno. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By Butternut: Pics? Originally Posted By Butternut: Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: Just came home with a white 24 WRX today Limited trim; I wanted leather and all that. It's got less than 60 miles on the odo...so far the only things I've noticed is wireless Carplay seems iffy - and the shifter seems...soft. It's been a few years since I rowed the gears so it might just be me needing to get used to it again. Edit - the first two things I'm considering changing is adding a Perrin shift stop kit (I had one in my Crosstrek, it was a noticable quality of life change), and an oil catch can/kit. I guess my question is, is an oil catch can worth it? I had one in my last 5.7 Hemi Ram and it would fill with oil every few weeks it seemed. On a direct injected forced induction engine it seems like it'd be a really nice thing to have, but...I'm not a super motorhead Pics? Way too cold for that right now and I'm not photographing my garage Hopefully next week my tires get in, so I should be able to get some photos then. I've already got two black Star Wars Empire ensignias I plan on putting on the C pillars, and a small white arfcom BFL I'll put in the bottom middle of the rear window I think However as it's not even 10f outside...I'll wait until it's warmer before putting on the vinyl stickers. I'd like them to actually stick  Besides, gotta get rid of these stickers somehow Now I gotta get used to a hand e-brake again; the 4R was a foot pedal e-brake - and get used to a speedometer that actually tells the truth...the 4R was 2-3mph off so when it hit "65", it was more 63 according to a Garmin nav unit I had pasted to the windshield. I spent the morning driving around with that same Garmin in the windshield of this one, except this time the speedo in the car and the GPS unit matched. Which is both good and bad; I no longer have that baked-in excuse anymore It's also really weird driving a car that doesn't struggle to get to 65 The Crosstrek I had before the 4R and the 4R itself both felt like you were bending physics a little to get it above 50, and had to really try to hit 65 - forget getting on the freeway and parking the speedo at 73. The Crosstrek was positively unhappy and while the 4R would do it, you could tell it was a few mph away from really not liking the experience. Driving between MN and NY on 94->80 and both really didn't want to go faster than 75 which pretty much kept me in the right lane all the way through, even in Ohio where LE hates everyone and wants to give you a ticket simply for existing
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"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Evil_Ed, congrats on the new WRX! Mine is a '23, also a Limited. I have not made any mechanical mods to mine as of yet and have mixed feelings about mods in general. Am enjoying it stock so far. For the spare, you have options. You can fit a full sized wheel and tire in the well in the trunk but you will have to cut the styrofoam trunk floor to fit over it. Used OEM wheels/tire can be found easily. I picked up a secondhand STi 18" temporary spare and Impreza styrofoam so that I would not have to rely on the fix a flat kit. I made a little web page with all the info here. The biggest concern (to me) is running unequal sized tires if I do need to run the spare, which might overheat or damage the center diff. It isn't exactly the size of the regular wheel so I would want to keep speeds down and basically go directly to a tire shop. Maybe for a long trip, it makes more sense to have a full-sized spare, I dunno. Nice! I don't think there should be a huge size difference between the STi spare and the WRX 18"? When it gets warm enough to be able to spend a few hours in the garage without freezing, I'll gut the trunk and see if it's still got space for a full size wheel - when my car's tires get replaced with winter ones, I'll be in a position to have a spare "wheel" that I can test-fit in the trunk to see if a full size/full width tire will comfortably sit in the well. If it does, then it'll be a case of sourcing an extra factory wheel, and then buying 1 extra of each summer and winter tires to ride on the rim as spare. And it'll let me do a 5 tire rotation, which should really extend tire life. Easier said than done, but I'll burn that bridge when I get there... |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Emoto: The Dunlops that came on my 2023 are soft sticky summer tires. No good at all in cold weather, so I pulled mine off with < 100 miles and put Michelin all season tires on. Too much cold weather here in New England to run summer tires year 'round. Regarding Android, have you checked to see that your infotainment software is up to date? Are you using Android Auto Wireless or Wired? I can tell you how to fix your connection issues if you're still having them. |
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Who is John Galt?
Who is John Galt?
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: Nice! I don't think there should be a huge size difference between the STi spare and the WRX 18"? When it gets warm enough to be able to spend a few hours in the garage without freezing, I'll gut the trunk and see if it's still got space for a full size wheel - when my car's tires get replaced with winter ones, I'll be in a position to have a spare "wheel" that I can test-fit in the trunk to see if a full size/full width tire will comfortably sit in the well. If it does, then it'll be a case of sourcing an extra factory wheel, and then buying 1 extra of each summer and winter tires to ride on the rim as spare. And it'll let me do a 5 tire rotation, which should really extend tire life. Easier said than done, but I'll burn that bridge when I get there... The STi spare is slightly different in diameter, but very different in width; the spare being narrow. The spare being narrow is what allows the styrofoam trunk floor to fit flat over top of it. A full sized one is taller and protrudes out of the tire well, so the styrofoam trunk floor cannot sit flat next to the neighboring pieces. I'll eat my hat if Subaru has bothered to change the size of the tire well between my 2023 and your new one. They are both the VB generation, so should be identical in that regard. Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference 245/40-18 3.9in 12.9in 25.7in 80.8in 784 0.0% 135/70-18 3.7in 12.7in 25.4in 79.9in 793 -1.1% |
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