User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 9/24/2021 4:42:13 PM EDT
[#1]
Thanks. I appreciate it.
More than likely it will be a winter project. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/24/2021 5:13:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ch3no2]
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Thanks. I appreciate it. More than likely it will be a winter project. If you end up buying a kit and rebuilding that carb, lightly coat the new gaskets with Pam cooking spray. No shit. It makes the gaskets reusable if you ever need to take it apart again 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/24/2021 5:24:03 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: If you end up buying a kit and rebuilding that carb, lightly coat the new gaskets with Pam cooking spray. No shit. It makes the gaskets reusable if you ever need to take it apart again Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Thanks. I appreciate it. More than likely it will be a winter project. If you end up buying a kit and rebuilding that carb, lightly coat the new gaskets with Pam cooking spray. No shit. It makes the gaskets reusable if you ever need to take it apart again Interesting. I have never heard of that! |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/25/2021 1:28:54 PM EDT
[#4]
Question. I haven't started the truck for 2 weeks. I was found with covid.
It was dead so I jumped it. After it started it ran horribly. It even backfired a few times. I tried messing with the throttle and it would try to pickup but would backfire or try and die. I did put that carb spacer on it right before I got covid. I started it and ran it with zero issues. I shut it off and tried to restart and it was dead. Thoughts? |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/25/2021 2:16:23 PM EDT
[#5]
I talked to my mechanic buddy and he thinks the voltage got too low. He said charge it up and see what happens. There is probably a parasitic drain on the system.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/25/2021 5:24:27 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: I talked to my mechanic buddy and he thinks the voltage got too low. He said charge it up and see what happens. There is probably a parasitic drain on the system. Ideal is 12.6-13ish volts. Things start to get bad around 9.6, stuff just stops working right. Your alternator should be capable of putting out enough to keep your high beams from dimming when you have every single other electrical draw on the vehicle on at the same time. 12.6v is what your minimum charge should be on the battery. Below that and you know individual cells are not at full charge. Your alternator needs to put out around 13-14 v to make enough pressure to shove charge into it. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/25/2021 5:51:49 PM EDT
[#7]
I am charging it up right now. I'll check it this afternoon and see if it wants to start and run.
Then I'll check alternator output and if there is a drain. My step-dad did put a USB voltage meter in the cigarette lighter before I got the vid. Maybe that is drawing it down. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/25/2021 6:51:23 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: My step-dad did put a USB voltage meter in the cigarette lighter before I got the vid. Maybe that is drawing it down. That'll do it, id disco it now, before charging and all that. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/25/2021 9:44:30 PM EDT
[#9]
Truck battery is charging and showing 75%. Truck is dead. Nothing when I turn the key.
I will check fuses in the morning when it's light out. |
|
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 9/26/2021 7:56:08 AM EDT
[#10]
Carb tuning vid. @ around 2 min he shown the metering rods. When idling they should be all the way down.
Lots of good old school tricks on his channel.  How To Make The Edelbrock Carb REALLY Work For You |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2021 3:19:35 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Truck battery is charging and showing 75%. Truck is dead. Nothing when I turn the key. I will check fuses in the morning when it's light out. If you can do it safely and know which of the bolts to do it to, flip the key to run, and manually connect the proper power lugs on the starter solenoid. If the starter does its thing and the truck does/does not fire up ... |
|
|
|
USA
|
Posted: 9/27/2021 4:07:39 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Move the entire vacuum setup from the right side to the left? What is that going to do? one is port vacuum and the other manifold vacuum. They are different. Should vacuum advance be on port or manifold? That is a chili with beans or no beans question. Yours is currently on manifold vacuum. As is mine. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2021 6:10:42 PM EDT
[#13]
So the no start issue was a blown fuse. I replaced it and it blew again. It's a 30 Amp attached to the battery, not factory. I removed all of the wire loom from the battery to the firewall and my God has it been hacked. That power supply with the blown fuse went was split in 5 around the drivers side fender. Those wires were half ass soldered together. One went to the fire wall, one to the battery, one to a control box, one to the alternator and another I didn't chase down. Looks like I will need to get the wiring diagram out and do some digging. Ugh..
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2021 6:13:18 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: If you end up buying a kit and rebuilding that carb, lightly coat the new gaskets with Pam cooking spray. No shit. It makes the gaskets reusable if you ever need to take it apart again If you are rebuilding a carb, and won't touch it again for a year or two until the next rebuild, let the gaskets do the job as intended and install them dry.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/28/2021 8:37:44 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: So the no start issue was a blown fuse. I replaced it and it blew again. It's a 30 Amp attached to the battery, not factory. I removed all of the wire loom from the battery to the firewall and my God has it been hacked. That power supply with the blown fuse went was split in 5 around the drivers side fender. Those wires were half ass soldered together. One went to the fire wall, one to the battery, one to a control box, one to the alternator and another I didn't chase down. Looks like I will need to get the wiring diagram out and do some digging. Ugh.. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/28/2021 8:43:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Rumrunner358]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Question. I haven't started the truck for 2 weeks. I was found with covid. It was dead so I jumped it. After it started it ran horribly. It even backfired a few times. I tried messing with the throttle and it would try to pickup but would backfire or try and die. I did put that carb spacer on it right before I got covid. I started it and ran it with zero issues. I shut it off and tried to restart and it was dead. Thoughts? Thats a simple weber carb with edelbrock out of the box tune. Simple to work on, and do metering rod changes. No gaskets are below the fuel bowl, so that's handy. If you do change that upper gasket, coat it in dow corning #4. Kind of like the PAM trick, may give that a try! If that's a mild motor, you should run ported advance. That means at idle, there is no vacuum on the line to advance the timing. Its ported off just above the throttle plates, so as soon as you crack the throttle, it will then pick up vacuum and advance the timing, because you are increasing RPMs. Which brings up another question..... did you check the timing? |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/28/2021 9:01:17 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rumrunner358: someone installed that fuse in place of the fuseable link. Old GM stuff like that truck had them, which was really just a short piece of smaller gauge wire that would burn up first. Pretty common for it to disappear over the years. Typically they were installed at the hot lead right by the starter. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rumrunner358: Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX: So the no start issue was a blown fuse. I replaced it and it blew again. It's a 30 Amp attached to the battery, not factory. I removed all of the wire loom from the battery to the firewall and my God has it been hacked. That power supply with the blown fuse went was split in 5 around the drivers side fender. Those wires were half ass soldered together. One went to the fire wall, one to the battery, one to a control box, one to the alternator and another I didn't chase down. Looks like I will need to get the wiring diagram out and do some digging. Ugh.. They have that newer fuse installed next to the battery and its around a 8? maybe a 6 gauge. Then it runs into the factory 18 gauge wire with an inline fuse. That fuse came out but it was heavily corroded. Then it runs a short bit more and was crimped into another wire. On the driver's side there is a power wire coming from the firewall that has 4 or 5 other wires soldered onto the end of it. Again, a hack job. Its bad. There are two power wires next to the battery that where not hooked up and taped off next to the battery. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/28/2021 9:07:48 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rumrunner358: did you get a carb spacer or insulator? use an insulator, it should have been a really thick gasket, maybe 3/16" thick. Thats a simple weber carb with edelbrock out of the box tune. Simple to work on, and do metering rod changes. No gaskets are below the fuel bowl, so that's handy. If you do change that upper gasket, coat it in dow corning #4. Kind of like the PAM trick, may give that a try! If that's a mild motor, you should run ported advance. That means at idle, there is no vacuum on the line to advance the timing. Its ported off just above the throttle plates, so as soon as you crack the throttle, it will then pick up vacuum and advance the timing, because you are increasing RPMs. Which brings up another question..... did you check the timing? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rumrunner358: Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Question. I haven't started the truck for 2 weeks. I was found with covid. It was dead so I jumped it. After it started it ran horribly. It even backfired a few times. I tried messing with the throttle and it would try to pickup but would backfire or try and die. I did put that carb spacer on it right before I got covid. I started it and ran it with zero issues. I shut it off and tried to restart and it was dead. Thoughts? Thats a simple weber carb with edelbrock out of the box tune. Simple to work on, and do metering rod changes. No gaskets are below the fuel bowl, so that's handy. If you do change that upper gasket, coat it in dow corning #4. Kind of like the PAM trick, may give that a try! If that's a mild motor, you should run ported advance. That means at idle, there is no vacuum on the line to advance the timing. Its ported off just above the throttle plates, so as soon as you crack the throttle, it will then pick up vacuum and advance the timing, because you are increasing RPMs. Which brings up another question..... did you check the timing? I went to the local speed shop and told them what was going on and they gave me a spacer. Its got two gaskets and a plastic "spacer" about and inch tall. I have not checked timing or done a tune up. It was running fairly well before I got sick. When I installed the spacer it started right up cold, like it always did and I ran it up to temp. Then I shut it off and started it again. It started right up. It sat for two weeks and now I have the blown fuse issue. I am chasing that wiring nightmare right now. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/28/2021 9:13:01 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: I went to the local speed shop and told them what was going on and they gave me a spacer. Its got two gaskets and a plastic "spacer" about and inch tall. I have not checked timing or done a tune up. It was running fairly well before I got sick. When I installed the spacer it started right up cold, like it always did and I ran it up to temp. Then I shut it off and started it again. It started right up. It sat for two weeks and now I have the blown fuse issue. I am chasing that wiring nightmare right now. factory set up may not be the best, but yours sounds....well, typical unfortunately. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/28/2021 9:28:42 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rumrunner358: yea, that wiring is bastardized in a bad way. factory set up may not be the best, but yours sounds....well, typical unfortunately. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rumrunner358: Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX: I went to the local speed shop and told them what was going on and they gave me a spacer. Its got two gaskets and a plastic "spacer" about and inch tall. I have not checked timing or done a tune up. It was running fairly well before I got sick. When I installed the spacer it started right up cold, like it always did and I ran it up to temp. Then I shut it off and started it again. It started right up. It sat for two weeks and now I have the blown fuse issue. I am chasing that wiring nightmare right now. factory set up may not be the best, but yours sounds....well, typical unfortunately. It's what you could expect for an almost 50-year-old truck that has had multiple owners and a few aftermarket accessories added. Sad but you never know what you are getting into. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/29/2021 12:25:11 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: It's what you could expect for an almost 50-year-old truck that has had multiple owners and a few aftermarket accessories added. Sad but you never know what you are getting into. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Originally Posted By Rumrunner358: Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX: I went to the local speed shop and told them what was going on and they gave me a spacer. Its got two gaskets and a plastic "spacer" about and inch tall. I have not checked timing or done a tune up. It was running fairly well before I got sick. When I installed the spacer it started right up cold, like it always did and I ran it up to temp. Then I shut it off and started it again. It started right up. It sat for two weeks and now I have the blown fuse issue. I am chasing that wiring nightmare right now. factory set up may not be the best, but yours sounds....well, typical unfortunately. It's what you could expect for an almost 50-year-old truck that has had multiple owners and a few aftermarket accessories added. Sad but you never know what you are getting into. Truth spoken here^ |
|
|
|
USA
|
Posted: 9/29/2021 12:39:19 PM EDT
[#22]
to me, getting to know the quirks of starting a carbureted car/truck was always a lot of fun and almost a theft deterrent.
"winter time requires 3.5 pumps on the accelerator and then turning starter midway in the third pump, holding the carb at half throttle and releasing it as soon as it kicks" don't do 2 pumps, don't do 4 pumps and half throttle.. do it the way i said. if it doesn't start, come back in 1/2 an hour and try again. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/29/2021 7:29:18 PM EDT
[#23]
Great excuse to go fuel injected right now.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/29/2021 7:52:36 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Jerret_S: Great excuse to go fuel injected right now. Ha! What is the cost of that? The plan is to eventually replace it with a bb and th400. That's going to be a bit down the road though. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/29/2021 11:04:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FlashMan-7k]
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Ha! What is the cost of that? The plan is to eventually replace it with a bb and th400. That's going to be a bit down the road though. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Originally Posted By Jerret_S: Great excuse to go fuel injected right now. Ha! What is the cost of that? The plan is to eventually replace it with a bb and th400. That's going to be a bit down the road though. I haven't priced any of that stuff in forever, but the cost depends very much on what you can do. If you can fab up your own crank trigger or get one cheap, and/or a camshaft trigger, do your own intake manifold and throttle body setup, and handle the software tuning yourself, you can do it a lot cheaper than if you can't, and you're going to order a bolt in kit. If you love having to sort it yourself: https://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html Heck, I bet you can even still get the plans and part lists and build the entire board for yourself, if you are so inclined. |
|
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 9/30/2021 7:27:46 PM EDT
[#26]
Im dealing with back engineering Bubba wiring on the F100. From what I can tell the guy that was using this truck was trying to run some hot wires for lights or whatever he was hooking up and wound up burning up the harness from the firewall forward.
The entire original harness was a glob of copper and insulation that had welded itself to the crossmember. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/30/2021 7:43:40 PM EDT
[#27]
After bragging about how well my setup I showed earlier runs, I had to double down yesterday in GD by saying I’ve never had any trouble with carbs.
I think I’ve managed to finally fook one up pretty good. I couldn’t get the old 68 to start last night. I just about drained the battery trying before I pulled the air cleaner off and found about a pound of what I think was stuffing out of the seat, and some nut shells and rodent shit. Im pretty sure I sucked the little bastard into my engine. Doesn’t run so smooth anymore 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/30/2021 8:18:40 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BASE: After bragging about how well my setup I showed earlier runs, I had to double down yesterday in GD by saying I’ve never had any trouble with carbs. I think I’ve managed to finally fook one up pretty good. I couldn’t get the old 68 to start last night. I just about drained the battery trying before I pulled the air cleaner off and found about a pound of what I think was stuffing out of the seat, and some nut shells and rodent shit. Im pretty sure I sucked the little bastard into my engine. Doesn’t run so smooth anymore  Uh oh.. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/30/2021 8:23:09 PM EDT
[#29]
Here is some of the wiring mess I am going through. We are going to replace the entire engine compartment wiring harness. Its a mess. I removed a trailer brake harness and plug today. It was un hooked but left in there. I don't plan on needing it.
I still have some work to do under the dash. They cobbled some other stuff together. Ugh...    
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/30/2021 9:38:24 PM EDT
[#30]
I have been constantly battling the same thing in my truck. One electrical problem after another. Shitty splices are everywhere.
I think I’m going to buy the whole harness kit from American Autowire and tack that on to my list of shit to do…should have a whole new truck by spring. My wife is laughing. “So you basically just bought a frame”. She clearly doesn’t understand how hard it is to find a rust free body on one of these things. I paid for the fenders! |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/30/2021 9:41:43 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BASE: I have been constantly battling the same thing in my truck. One electrical problem after another. Shitty splices are everywhere. I think I’m going to buy the whole harness kit from American Autowire and tack that on to my list of shit to do…should have a whole new truck by spring. My wife is laughing. “So you basically just bought a frame”. She clearly doesn’t understand how hard it is to find a rust free body on one of these things. I paid for the fenders! Trust me. I hear the same thing.. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/1/2021 9:55:42 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Trust me. I hear the same thing.. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Originally Posted By BASE: I have been constantly battling the same thing in my truck. One electrical problem after another. Shitty splices are everywhere. I think I’m going to buy the whole harness kit from American Autowire and tack that on to my list of shit to do…should have a whole new truck by spring. My wife is laughing. “So you basically just bought a frame”. She clearly doesn’t understand how hard it is to find a rust free body on one of these things. I paid for the fenders! Trust me. I hear the same thing.. With the ability to buy a complete hardness, I would go that way. A rust free cab on GM trucks are pretty tough to find even a truck that lived in California it’s entire life. The problem is the drains plug up with dirt and mud and hold water in the cab. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/1/2021 10:00:59 AM EDT
[#33]
@OP:
Beautiful truck. Nice find! Congrats!! |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/1/2021 10:29:01 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AT7WE2: @OP: Beautiful truck. Nice find! Congrats!! Thanks. I have a lot of work to do but that's why we buy these, to tinker. |
|
|
|
CO, USA
|
Posted: 10/1/2021 11:41:53 AM EDT
[#35]
Maybe take a look at this. EFI in one unit, carburetor replacement.
Here in Colorado we can gain 9,000 feet of elevation in less than an hour. Carbs are a pretty tough go at it here. This unit also compensates for outside air temperature, fuel difference, pulling a trailer or not, etc. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/FiTech-30008-MeanStreet-800-HP-Throttle-Body-EFI-System,474525.html |
|
|
BEN
|
Posted: 10/1/2021 7:29:38 PM EDT
[#36]
If you go a timing gauge, there's two options. The $40 model or the $100 model. The $40 works but the $100 model (inova 3568) can tell you the rpms your engine turning and let you see what the timing is doing as you rev the engine without any Goofy tape. Exactly what the timing is doing, since the tach is there on the screen you can lean back and rev the engine with your hand and count the timing up to where you want. You can also have someone else rev it to exactly where you want it while you turn the distributor and actually adjust the overall timing and see what the curve is doing. It makes checking and tuning your vacuum advance a breeze. And let's be honest the less time anyone spends sticking a light under a moving fan/belt and trying to read a tiny line the better.
The $40 is one step of timing. The very first tiny little step. The only other way to see your overall timing is with little tapes you stick on the balancer (because your balancer is already so clean right?) but they don't stick and you're gonna want to be able to check and adjust it as you go for the life of the vehicle. Not that you'll be doing it all the time, but a lot of the problems an engine can have the first step is make sure your distributor is functioning like it should. Base and overall right where you want it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/1/2021 7:35:53 PM EDT
[#37]
Thanks. I do need to invest in a timing light as I don't think my stepdad has one.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/1/2021 7:52:05 PM EDT
[#38]
Bottom of the first page before someone mentions the accelerator pump! I was beginning to think I was the only who remembered those. That sounds like the problem. Try it.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2021 7:17:19 PM EDT
[#39]
Lots of wiring work today.
The new harness is 90% installed. I am having to run to the parts store tomorrow and get a few pieces to complete it. I am going to pick up a new cap and rotor as well. I was routing some wiring behind it and I noticed one of the screws was loose and it would easily tilt one way. I removed the entire cap and the contacts are corroded. The wires are msd and look nice. Can someone please tell me what part I need for a new HEI Cap and rotor, coil, preferably from napa? I cannot find it online and they are closed right now. If not them I have an autozone, o'rielies, and a car quest close by. I will also get some plugs. Thanks |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2021 7:29:16 PM EDT
[#40]
Cap ECH RR171
rotor ECH RR173 Coil MPE IC19SB |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2021 8:24:50 PM EDT
[#41]
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2021 8:43:30 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Thanks! also, since it's just a tinker truck, rockauto usually has way better prices and brands than the local part stores. Minimal digging gets you a 5% off coupon as well. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2021 2:51:21 PM EDT
[#43]
I am still trying to figure out what size fuses go in the engine compartment harness. The mini glass fuses are the ones I am referring too. One on both the drivers and passengers side front.
I'm waiting for new bulbs for the cluster and a bunch of parts from rock auto. It was so much cheaper to order from them. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2021 3:51:56 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: I am still trying to figure out what size fuses go in the engine compartment harness. The mini glass fuses are the ones I am referring too. One on both the drivers and passengers side front. I'm waiting for new bulbs for the cluster and a bunch of parts from rock auto. It was so much cheaper to order from them. check rock auto for the service manual DVD, last one I got was $20 and had all the factory manuals. Had to dig up an old usb DVD drive though
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2021 4:02:07 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rumrunner358: Rock auto has good prices, but their customer service is mediocre. check rock auto for the service manual DVD, last one I got was $20 and had all the factory manuals. Had to dig up an old usb DVD drive though Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rumrunner358: Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX: I am still trying to figure out what size fuses go in the engine compartment harness. The mini glass fuses are the ones I am referring too. One on both the drivers and passengers side front. I'm waiting for new bulbs for the cluster and a bunch of parts from rock auto. It was so much cheaper to order from them. check rock auto for the service manual DVD, last one I got was $20 and had all the factory manuals. Had to dig up an old usb DVD drive though I couldn't believe how much cheaper it was. I'll check for a manual. Thanks. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2021 5:26:00 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: I couldn't believe how much cheaper it was. I'll check for a manual. Thanks. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Originally Posted By Rumrunner358: Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX: I am still trying to figure out what size fuses go in the engine compartment harness. The mini glass fuses are the ones I am referring too. One on both the drivers and passengers side front. I'm waiting for new bulbs for the cluster and a bunch of parts from rock auto. It was so much cheaper to order from them. check rock auto for the service manual DVD, last one I got was $20 and had all the factory manuals. Had to dig up an old usb DVD drive though I couldn't believe how much cheaper it was. I'll check for a manual. Thanks. If you need to look for more obscure paperwork and books for auto stuff, I've had luck with faxon: https://www.faxonautoliterature.com/ |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2021 9:30:49 PM EDT
[#47]
67-72 Chevy truck forum has the service manuals available for download as well as some good wiring diagrams.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2021 9:51:43 PM EDT
[#48]
Thanks. I found a wiring diagram on that site but I'll go look again.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/21/2021 8:31:50 AM EDT
[#49]
I ended up buying an old service manual off ebay. I like to be able to thumb through it as I work. I'm old school.
My new window washer pump should be here next week. The one that was sent to me was incorrect. Hopefully this one works. I also need to order new hvac defroster vent pipe as the currect one split when I was removing it. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/23/2021 8:55:30 PM EDT
[#50]
Well, today was semi-successful.
With the help of my stepdad I got a new engine temp sensor installed and it works! The previous owner had installed a secondary gauge under the dash after the temp sensor died. Why I don't know. The only guess is they wanted to know the exact engine temp instead of what the factory gauge shows. The next project was to remove the cowl and see where I am getting water leaking into the cab when it rains. There are some small holes on both the passenger side and driver's side that I need to figure out how to seal up. I am not sure how to accomplish that quite yet. I also built a bracket that will hold a cutoff switch for the ignition. I will be mounting this behind the steering column and it will require the clutch to be pressed before starting. I think its a needed safety feature and its easy to do. The last item I tried to tackle is the tachometer. It was working previously to the wiring harness issues but after replacing it, it isn't working. I checked the ground and it's good. I have power to the tach. I also checked the wire going from the tac to the hei distributor and it is fine. I found a video online where they talked about how you should see voltage coming from the signal output on the tach and it should vary when you accelerate. I did not see anything with my meter. So could that be a bad coil? Or would it not work at all? It is brand new. Connections were checked and tight. Maybe the tach itself was damaged when I had the old wiring harness issues?? Can anyone help on this? |
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
