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Posted: 4/21/2021 4:05:44 PM EDT
[#1]
For the clutch pedal stop... I ran into the same thing. Auto trans car that I converted over to manual.
There’s a threaded hole in the pedal support to mount the stop. I just used a piece of angle iron (that I boxed IIRC), glued a small piece of old mud flap to the contact point, done deal. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 4/21/2021 11:11:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: For the clutch pedal stop... I ran into the same thing. Auto trans car that I converted over to manual. There’s a threaded hole in the pedal support to mount the stop. I just used a piece of angle iron (that I boxed IIRC), glued a small piece of old mud flap to the contact point, done deal. My kit came with a new pedal stop for the clutch. It is already mounted to pedal support. I may add a layer/shim to it to drop pedal height a little more. My issue with pedal height before was on the brake itself. I had a real oddball brake pedal in the car. Like fucking strange as hell. Went to mustang dude by Magic Mountain and he had my new pedal with proper bumper to lower pedal height. He never saw one like what I took him. I have seen one picture reference online for the POS I had and it became obvious why my pedal sat like 2 inches too high. As it stands the clutch pedal almost hits the pedal stop but not quite. If I adjust the linkage to hit the pedal stop it will increase the throw which may bottom out the clutch master cylinder and I am doing what I can to avoid that. I have the pedal set to bottom out on the floor boards just before the master cylinder bottoms out. Once the carpet goes back in it shpuld be just about right. Took tank out today and was almost able to get new tank in but it didnt have a cork gasket to go under filler neck at back valance/panel. Should be getti g a ton of parts in tomorrow so tank will go in. Battery box will go in. Likely putting in an order for some -6 fuel line tonight along with the MSD solid state 4 pot relay for my fans/water pump. Tempted to do new brake lines. Will see what happens when I have to crack the rear line when new suspension goes in I guess. Progress pic for today... 
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CA, USA
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Posted: 4/30/2021 1:02:48 AM EDT
[#3]
Suspension finally shipped.
Should be here next week and will hopefully be installed by next weekend. Engine has been in and out 2 or 3 times while checking clearances. Made power steering lines tonight and would have engine detached from the cherry picker but I have to take passenger side long tube out to have O2 sensor bung welded. Once I have header welded I will be able to install the header and move onto the transmission and starter. Also get to start working on putting wiring back into the car. Once I have the suspension installed I can measure for drive shaft. Waiting on radiator still along with output shaft for transmission. Kinda wishing I went with the Super Sniper which has 5v outputs and an additional 3 inputs for gauges from various senders. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/4/2021 4:56:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#4]
Engine is in.
Trans is in. Clutch pedals are in. Original rear suspension is loose waiting to disconnect brake lines. Rear suspension gets picked up tonight. Have a few things like bump stops and pinion snubber to grind off. Ordered a slip yoke from summit. Still waiting on goddamn radiator backorder. Spent about an hour the other night scraping even more crud off the underside of trans tunnel beyond what pic shows. Started pulling wiring and do not have much left to run wire wise.    Once I get rear end installed and the car is back under full weight I am gonna try to set the fender well top height about 1/2 inch to 1 inch lower at 24-25 inches. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/8/2021 12:26:14 AM EDT
[#5]
Sexy rear end time.
Gonna clean up underside of chassis tomorrow and throw a coat of paint on it. Then get the brackets all lined up and get the rear end installed.  
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Posted: 5/8/2021 9:41:15 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Sexy rear end time. Gonna clean up underside of chassis tomorrow and throw a coat of paint on it. Then get the brackets all lined up and get the rear end installed. https://i.imgur.com/goXfHsb.jpg https://i.imgur.com/BJZg7JA.jpg 31 spline axles? 35s? |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/8/2021 4:09:56 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: 31 spline axles? 35s? 31s For my power levels there is no way I am hurting this thing. |
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Posted: 5/8/2021 5:09:50 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: 31s For my power levels there is no way I am hurting this thing. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Originally Posted By ch3no2: 31 spline axles? 35s? 31s For my power levels there is no way I am hurting this thing. If you ever run slicks, don’t let it wheel hop. Don’t ask me how I know 
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/8/2021 10:21:48 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: If you ever run slicks, don’t let it wheel hop. Don’t ask me how I know It will probably ever only run street legal track tires. And I am betting it will never wheel hop due to being a 3 link with a road course style suspension. Rear end is together, gonna get her on the ground tomorrow to measure pinion angle after getting ride height close. Gonna check the lower control arm links(at middle setting out of 3 available settings at the axle). Then gonna check brake lines for any clearance issues and then set the watts link. Hopefully have neighbor girl come over to borrow her foot while I bleed the brakes and the hydraulic clutch while looking for leaks. I have all my fluids ready to go in. Nearly finalized on wiring. Slip yoke comes in on monday. May be able to measure for drive shaft and have one made this week. Have a 3 inch X pipe ready to adjust to fit then have flanges welded and set up for bolting to the super comps. When I got tired of laying on the ground today I took die grinder with abrasive wheel and cleaned up some of interior floor boards. Painted them then stuck some sound deadener on them. Got a few more spots of that shit to do and can probably stick interior back in. Identified one thin area of passenger floorboards that rusted pretty good. Will wait for body work to address that at a future date. STILL WAITING ON GODDAMN RADIATOR. Have called place twice in two weeks with same story of shit is coming and claim they will call back. As soon as the engine comes in I need to get this fucker fired up and broken in. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/9/2021 10:48:01 PM EDT
[#10]
Got rear end bolted in. Torqued down bolts, watts link angles set after car centered. Set pinion angle.
Brakes bled and clutch bled. Will be kinda obvious from the back end that things aint stock anymore.  
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Posted: 5/11/2021 1:45:46 AM EDT
[#11]
Looking good!!
But where's the goddamn radiator??? 
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/11/2021 11:14:14 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MoBigAl: Looking good!! But where's the goddamn radiator??? Ordered/billed on March 24th. Parts backorders/shortages hit me right in the dick I guess. Have reached out to company twice and they said they would call back and never did. Gonna try again later today. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/11/2021 4:59:45 PM EDT
[#13]
Measuring for drive shaft tonight to have it made locally.
1-2 week estimate for the drive shaft at 425 dollar estimate for aluminmum 2ith dual 1350 spicer joints. Got call back on radiator. 2-3 week estimate as they actually have their supply inventory now to start making the kits. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/18/2021 5:51:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#14]
Got a pair of bends tack welded to flanges well enough to do engine break in.
Working on the emergency brake lines while waiting for drive shaft to be done this thurs. Once drive shaft is in I will be able to finalize the emergency brake cables. Went to a 3 inch drive shaft down from a 3.5 inch driveshaft for better clearance. The 3 inch will have a critical RPM of like 8700 rpm versus the 3.5inch being 10k+ rpm. Should still be able to hit like 130+ if I pull in overdrive. 80mph should be 4k-ish RPM in 4th gear versus just under 2500rpm in overdrive. Leaving ignition disconnected because I am refusing to turn car over til radiator is here and I can get every fluid into the car. Hoping for news on radiator shipping this week. Have 4 day weekend at the end of the month and I could get everything done by that weekend and be able to take the car in to have exhaust made come June 1st. Crap pics but I am starting to get through the ages of dirt. Every time I get under the car I scrape/sand/pry a bit more gunk loose. Hoping to get some scour pads to really knock the crust off. Then wash/degrease and hit it with some black paint soon. Hate the tooth brush sized bristle brishes for getting in there and doing this crap.  Could almost get Xpipe section hooked up but I had to have somebody tack the pipes with the xpipe disconnected from the car. It wouldnt bolt up correctly so it will just be funky bends for now to do break in. 3 inch is some big shit compared to what was there before. Looking at spintech mufflers. 
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/19/2021 11:48:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: Just a heads up when you do the trans swap. I bought a swap over crossmember for the T-5 that has the parking brake bracket built in. When I release the parking brake the spring pulls the fulcrum arm in all the way and screws up the parking brake system. For some reason the V notch in the fulcrum will not stay in place on the crossmember. I think it has something to do with relocating it and the geometry in the new location with relationship to the spring location from the factory. I just need someone to operate the parking brake while I observe what the hell is going on under the car. I might have a fix this weekend for it. I'll keep you updated. @ScottsGT I am coming back to this area and looking more closely at it. I think my slip yoke is gonna smack the cables. Modern Driveline put the fulcrum point really high up so as to try to give more room for exhaust clearance. Problem is it looks like it is gonna get damn close to the rotation of a slip yoke. If it was 1.5-2 inches lower I would feel a lot more comfortable. I held a piece of 3 inch exhaust up there and it is pretty tight. Thinking about yanking the cross member to have it cut and lowered an inch. Then if I move the rear cable stays lower so a bracket bolts in on the back side of the seatbelt bolt and is locked down tight it will lower the cables as well as straighten the angle getting away from the drive shaft. Got myselfa little more room scavenging a u-bend for the original style ebrake cable. Brings it a little lower and spreads it out a fair bit. Might make enough room. Held a piece of 3 inch exhaust pipe up in the tunnel and I am glad I went with a 3 inch drive shaft over 3.5 inch. Will yield more clearance in two spots where I kinda want it. Can see u-bend where I double up the cable on itself here. Will get some cable clamps and tighten the cable to itself mid way down the run. Hopefully drive shaft done tomorrow. Hope my 16 hours of overtime this weekend goes away even if I need to start making money for my hood. 
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Posted: 5/20/2021 8:35:01 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ScottsGT]
[#16]
Please excuse those low life no good cocksuckers at Photobucket. Now they are watermarking my own images even if I download them. But if you can see through all their bullshit image fuckup, I'm running an H pipe, and it's a bit further back from where you are putting your X pipe. Can you move it back some?
Oh, wait, you asked about yoke hitting cables. Looks like you have plenty of room in there.  Oh, and FWIW, once I got the proper tension on my brake cables, the arm no longer jumps out of place. |
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Posted: 5/20/2021 9:27:22 AM EDT
[#17]
Looking good. What master cylinder did you use?
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/20/2021 1:51:43 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By funnelcake: Looking good. What master cylinder did you use? For my brakes it is one of the fox/SN95 master cylinders. There are 3 different varieties and I forget which one it is. There is like a 15/16, 1 inch, and 1 1/8 bore diameter. It also has an internal proportioning valve for the rear circuit. For the clutch it is a wilwood unit. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/23/2021 7:25:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#19]
Dropped car down on tires to check for ride height.
Got around 2 3/4 inches clearance between header flange and the ground at this ride height. This is 24 3/4 inches from the ground to top of front wheel well arch. May push it up ti around 25 1/2.  When you walk around the car you dont catch the front discs much because there isnt much space between rotor and the wheel. But at the back you really notice it. The disc brake is so far inboard from the floating axle that your eye catches the distance with the rotor set back so much. I can basically do zero backspacing wheels front and rear. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/28/2021 12:52:06 PM EDT
[#20]
Drive shaft is in. Working on adjusting the parking brakes now.
Radiator was supposed to ship last week but on a call to the company they tell me the cores that came in were automatic radiators that were packed in boxes marked manual... So here I go again on a 1-3 week wait. Likely starting the car this weekend to confirm oiling to the heads/valvetrain while setting timing. Starting to look for seats. Found a place that seems to get S550 seats in regularly and does not charge an arm and a leg trying to resell them. Also considering BRAUM seats which seem to be signifigantly thinner allowing for lower seat mount height which is a problem using modern seats. Braum seats may let me avoid having to modify the seat riser. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2021 11:16:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#21]
Sigh...
Still no radiator. Car has been started and ran for around 2-3 minutes to get timing close then shut off to wait for the radiator to do the break in cycles. 3D printed a holder and mount for the handheld monitor and stuck/slid it where the ashtray used to be. Interior is back in the car and pretty much sits waiting for it's first drive. Likely ordering exhaust on Wed and possibly the hood. Black widow venom 250 3inch mufflers and Maier racing 67 high rise hood. The shifter bezel and Hurst shift boot that came with the trans kit was shit, cheap absolute shit. Managed to find the "deluxe" original style bezel and shift boot which had mount holes to match the automatic bezel. Some day may design up a new bezel that is a bit longer to the front and back and machine in a small tray/flat. Maybe leave mount holes for being able to bolt a modular 3D printed cup holder.  
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Posted: 6/13/2021 12:17:31 PM EDT
[#22]
Just out of curiosity, who’s building your radiator?
PM if you’d rather not throw them under the bus |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/13/2021 7:43:51 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Just out of curiosity, who’s building your radiator? PM if you’d rather not throw them under the bus Autoworks out of SanDiego. It isnt entirely their fault given the damn parts availability/covid bullshit. The parts come in when they come in. Have lucked out with a lot of my build in terms of getting shit and not waiting. Canceling only to go with some other option carries the risk of just dealing with the bullshit all over again. Video of how kit installs |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/21/2021 1:59:32 AM EDT
[#24]
Latest addon, 3 3/4 autometer tach.
 3inch black widow mufflers came in and damn they are nice. New hood hinges came in along with hood pins. Will order hood next week and cross my fingers radiator is here by this wed at latest. |
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Posted: 6/21/2021 2:22:24 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Latest addon, 3 3/4 autometer tach. https://i.imgur.com/e2NgUMj.jpg 3inch black widow mufflers came in and damn they are nice. New hood hinges came in along with hood pins. Will order hood next week and cross my fingers radiator is here by this wed at latest. 'glass Shelby hood, or ? |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/21/2021 3:35:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#26]
Maier racing 67 style but has an extended rise. Really dont want a cowl induction hood, feel it ruins the lines too much.
 Hood Also going to do a GT350 style gravel shield but with provisions to retain the bumper like in the photo. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/21/2021 7:24:21 PM EDT
[#27]
Called muffler shop today to see if Thurs is open.
Said he is available. Told him what I have and what I want to put in. His comment was "oh god it is gonna be loud". LULZ will be had. I am planning on my radiator not shipping this week so likely having the car towed to the shop |
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Posted: 6/22/2021 8:05:16 AM EDT
[#28]
I got mine out to our new home this past Saturday. I stopped by the old house on Friday afternoon (still on the market) and did a short drive to heat up the new gears for it's first heat cycle and then parked it overnight. Next day after loading it up I let me son take it a mile down the road in the new neighborhood to put another heat cycle on the gears. It's really a great improvement over the old worn out 4:11's I had in there.
This is the first time anyone other than me has driven it. He was ecstatic about how great everything was working in harmony. Power steering, power brakes, hydraulic clutch, clutch adjustment, etc... He hardly noticed the too small of shifter boot constantly pulling the trans out of gear. That's my next fix, I think along with a new 02 sensor. I think running it early on without an exhaust system fouled it up to the point it won't act like it is tuning properly.  All tucked away in it's new bedroom.... 
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/22/2021 10:46:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#29]
Was not happy with pedal height and short throw to the floor to articulate the throttle body.
Holley makes an extension lever which almost doubles the sweep needed to rotate the nearly 90 degrees. Installed it and it raised my pedal and basically douboed my pedal travel. Much easier to watch the TPS reading and be able to accurately hold part throttle. Also has benefit of raising the pedal to where I should be able to heel and toe a bit, brake pedal could be a tiny bit lower. Reading about people bitching about a sensitive stock throttle I found two discussions on how to solve it. One is getting the little arm that I got. The other is adding a linkage that makes the secondary butterflies progressive and only begin to open after around 40% throttle and go all in by 100%. To use the progressive linkage requires a change to the tune and fuel mapping. Gonna try to avoid that nonsense. Original connection point was located at the first bolt hole down from where I connected to the extension. 
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Posted: 6/23/2021 10:43:34 AM EDT
[#30]
My deal is carbureted... so it’s an apples to oranges comparison.
750 cfm mechanical secondaries; quite a lot of carb for (only) 333 cubic inches. Vic Jr single plane, 236*@.050 After a lot of experimentation (and tuning), I wound up timing the secondaries to start coming in at 60% throttle. But once they start, they snap open pretty damn quick. Really fattened up the low-end torque. Crisp stoplight-to-stoplight throttle response. WFO is still there for when I want it |
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Posted: 6/23/2021 11:21:34 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: My deal is carbureted... so it’s an apples to oranges comparison. 750 cfm mechanical secondaries; quite a lot of carb for (only) 333 cubic inches. Vic Jr single plane, 236*@.050 After a lot of experimentation (and tuning), I wound up timing the secondaries to start coming in at 60% throttle. But once they start, they snap open pretty damn quick. Really fattened up the low-end torque. Crisp stoplight-to-stoplight throttle response. WFO is still there for when I want it How does the motor in general run in lower RPM bands and street cruising with that big of a carb? Pretty hot set up with a single plane and a big ass carb. |
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Posted: 6/23/2021 8:57:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ch3no2]
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: How does the motor in general run in lower RPM bands and street cruising with that big of a carb? Pretty hot set up with a single plane and a big ass carb. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: Originally Posted By ch3no2: My deal is carbureted... so it’s an apples to oranges comparison. 750 cfm mechanical secondaries; quite a lot of carb for (only) 333 cubic inches. Vic Jr single plane, 236*@.050 After a lot of experimentation (and tuning), I wound up timing the secondaries to start coming in at 60% throttle. But once they start, they snap open pretty damn quick. Really fattened up the low-end torque. Crisp stoplight-to-stoplight throttle response. WFO is still there for when I want it How does the motor in general run in lower RPM bands and street cruising with that big of a carb? Pretty hot set up with a single plane and a big ass carb. Surprisingly snappy and crisp, but it took a lot of work (tuning) to get it there. Wideband O2 gauge is your friend  I’ve resized and/or modified the idle feed restrictors, the power valve channel restrictors, all four air bleeds, both shooters and their respective cams. Four hole spacer helps strengthen the vacuum signal to the boosters. Jetting was easy compared to all that other crap. I get away with it because: wide-ratio Toploader (2.78 first gear), 3.70 rear gear in a lightweight car. It spools up quick. This motor would not be near as happy in something heavier, and would need a fairly loose converter (and probably a deeper rear gear) to work with an auto transmission. |
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Posted: 6/23/2021 9:02:58 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Definite possibility and will toy with it a bit over next few days. Car has a shit balancer on it with like no timing marks at all and the pointer is gone as well. So probably look into a balancer/pully then get the pointer and a proper base timing. Then check distributor advance. Car will probably drive fairly nice after all that. 
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Posted: 6/24/2021 8:38:59 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Surprisingly snappy and crisp, but it took a lot of work (tuning) to get it there. Wideband O2 gauge is your friend I’ve resized and/or modified the idle feed restrictors, the power valve channel restrictors, all four air bleeds, both shooters and their respective cams. Four hole spacer helps strengthen the vacuum signal to the boosters. Jetting was easy compared to all that other crap. I get away with it because: wide-ratio Toploader (2.78 first gear), 3.70 rear gear in a lightweight car. It spools up quick. This motor would not be near as happy in something heavier, and would need a fairly loose converter (and probably a deeper rear gear) to work with an auto transmission. You're a fucking wizard! |
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Posted: 6/24/2021 11:13:51 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: You're a fucking wizard! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: Originally Posted By ch3no2: Surprisingly snappy and crisp, but it took a lot of work (tuning) to get it there. Wideband O2 gauge is your friend I’ve resized and/or modified the idle feed restrictors, the power valve channel restrictors, all four air bleeds, both shooters and their respective cams. Four hole spacer helps strengthen the vacuum signal to the boosters. Jetting was easy compared to all that other crap. I get away with it because: wide-ratio Toploader (2.78 first gear), 3.70 rear gear in a lightweight car. It spools up quick. This motor would not be near as happy in something heavier, and would need a fairly loose converter (and probably a deeper rear gear) to work with an auto transmission. You're a fucking wizard! Nah. Just good at 100 year old technology Although I do have a few tricks up my sleeve (ahem) using a wideband O2 meter is almost like cheating. I wish I had wideband 30 years ago. It takes (most of) the black magic voodoo out of carburetor tuning. Now it’s data collection and calculations vs. seat-of-your-pants/plug reads/trial & error. Although there’s still plenty of the latter
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Posted: 6/24/2021 11:53:51 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: I got mine out to our new home this past Saturday. I stopped by the old house on Friday afternoon (still on the market) and did a short drive to heat up the new gears for it's first heat cycle and then parked it overnight. Next day after loading it up I let me son take it a mile down the road in the new neighborhood to put another heat cycle on the gears. It's really a great improvement over the old worn out 4:11's I had in there. This is the first time anyone other than me has driven it. He was ecstatic about how great everything was working in harmony. Power steering, power brakes, hydraulic clutch, clutch adjustment, etc... He hardly noticed the too small of shifter boot constantly pulling the trans out of gear. That's my next fix, I think along with a new 02 sensor. I think running it early on without an exhaust system fouled it up to the point it won't act like it is tuning properly. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/2894/MFQvD2.jpg All tucked away in it's new bedroom.... https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/1503/v83OSj.jpg Similar bedroom. Just with a bunch of additional crap 
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Posted: 6/24/2021 12:03:32 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Similar bedroom. Just with a bunch of additional crap https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277622/5E701174-9B09-4710-B928-69F7954190C7-1989680.jpg All my crap is to the left and way out in front of the car just out of the pic.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/25/2021 3:44:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#38]
Had the car towed down to exhaust shop to have 3 inch dual pipes and xpipe with the blackwidows installed.
100 bucks to flat bed it down and flatbed it back plus 250 for the pipes to be bent/welded/hung. Have about a 20 deg turn down just past the pinion to keep any dust that is blown from being to big of an issue. Went to drive my 95 Cobra to work today and blew up the clutch cable. Managed to limo it home in first gear and back it into the garage by basically starting in gear. New clutch cable wont be in until mid July for the 95. Have an old radiator for my 95 up in the attic and I think I am gonna pull it down to use for break in. Hook up two hoses to it and run it. If it starts getting hot due to no fans to force air I will just use a garden hose across the front to carry heat away. Just need overtime to cancel so I can work on it. I need to get a new gauge cluster with a GPS speedo. My mechanical speedo cable off trans is gonna be short lived. It passes way too close to the collector and nearly touches it.  |
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Posted: 6/25/2021 3:47:54 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Had the car towed down to exhaust shop to have 3 inch dual pipes and xpipe with the blackwidows installed. 100 bucks to flat bed it down and flatbed it back plus 250 for the pipes to be bent/welded/hung. Have about a 20 deg turn down just past the pinion to keep any dust that is blown from being to big of an issue. Went to drive my 95 Cobra to work today and blew up the clutch cable. Managed to limo it home in first gear and back it into the garage by basically starting in gear. New clutch cable wont be in until mid July for the 95. Have an old radiator for my 95 up in the attic and I think I am gonna pull it down to use for break in. Hook up two hoses to it and run it. If it starts getting hot due to no fans to force air I will just use a garden hose across the front to carry heat away. Just need overtime to cancel so I can work on it. Good price on the exhaust work  Plumbing that ‘95 radiator... will need to get creative with the lower hose. But hell yeah, I’d do it |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/25/2021 4:19:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Good price on the exhaust work Plumbing that ‘95 radiator... will need to get creative with the lower hose. But hell yeah, I’d do it Not at all. Radiator outlet is same side. Mezier electric water pump has the intake coming in from drivers side. Just need a long 90 to hook around the belt for the power steering pump but it's a high angle. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/26/2021 12:26:35 AM EDT
[#41]
 Sair fuck it and pulled the SN95 radiator out of thr attic. Managed to grab a pair of hoses that fit and may even work with the radiator kit when it comes in. Ran it for 15 minutes tonight between 1000 and 2800rpm. EFI went to learn mode once it got above 160. Kept engine between 185 and 205 by running a garden hose over the radiator to carry heat away. Found out I need a better return spring to pull the trottle back to idle better. Virtually no real effort on the gas pedal to accelerate. Glad I put the longer throttle arm on the throttle body, travel is good but needs to be heavier. Tightened header bolts again once it was hot. Tomorrow after work I am gonna pull vapve covers and check to see if there is anything ugly underneath. Heard a slight tick from one side but cannot tell if it is an exhaust leak or valvetrain noise. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/26/2021 11:28:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#42]
Found my valve tick.
#2 cylinder had some valve lash that needed sorting given these are hydraulic roller lifters. Gonna check lash on all the lifters and retighten. Tomorrow I will do round two of break in. Will get a walk around of the car after start up tomorrow. Gonna run her for 15-20 minutes while I check timing and work on sensors/settings. Neighbor girl can stand by with a hose cooling radiator off to keep car in 180-200deg range. Car snaps to life super quick when you goto start it. Partial throttle has it rev extremely easy. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/27/2021 11:46:24 PM EDT
[#43]
Ran car 20 minutes today between 1500-3000 rpm.
Started getting a lot of smoke from headers. Found leak that looks like it is from corners of intake manifold. Had torqued it down but thinking heat cycles loosed the bolts as things expanded between steel block/aluminum heads/aluminum intake. Retorqued everything while it was hot. Gonna let cool over night then dry the hell out of everything tomorrow to rerun the engine and see if it does same shit or if it has gone away. If it comes back but much less of an issue then I will pull the intake and do a reseal and bolt that shit down and watch it like a hawk retorquing during heat cycle. Also need to adjust clutch better. Getting a grind going into reverse so thinking clutch is sticking slightly or not fully disengaging. |
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Posted: 6/28/2021 8:23:27 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Also need to adjust clutch better. Getting a grind going into reverse so thinking clutch is sticking slightly or not fully disengaging. Without going back and reading the thread again, which trans are you running? I had the same issue with my T-5z until I did some reading and saw where on a new trans especially, you need to put it into 5th gear first and then pull down into reverse. Something about shit inside spinning and pushing the shifter up into 5th first will stop the spin and allow reverse to go right in. Since I started doing this I no longer get the nasty grind. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/28/2021 10:30:45 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: Without going back and reading the thread again, which trans are you running? I had the same issue with my T-5z until I did some reading and saw where on a new trans especially, you need to put it into 5th gear first and then pull down into reverse. Something about shit inside spinning and pushing the shifter up into 5th first will stop the spin and allow reverse to go right in. Since I started doing this I no longer get the nasty grind. Yeah I am hoping it is the new clutch dragging on the pressure plate and fly wheel causing the input shaft to spin. If that is happening then reverse wont be happy unless you bring the whole thing to a stop by using the syncros of one of the forward gears. Will play with bouncing it into another gear befor goi g into reverse. 5hey probably recommend 5th because it is so close to reverse there is not enough time for it to spin up again like going from 1st to reverse. Gonna try running car again tonight to see if my leaks are largely done. If they are may strip intake and redo gaskets/silicone paying special attention to the damn corners. Had a tiny bit of coolant that squeezed out of gasket surface area near #1 intake runner as I retorqued the bolts for the intake so that tells me it very slightly lifted. |
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Posted: 6/28/2021 12:40:42 PM EDT
[#46]
When mine was on the stand I torqued the intake down. Next day, had to do it again. Came back a week later, had to do it again. I think I went through 4 torque sessions before installing the engine and then had to do it after it warmed up the first time. No more since then though. How the hell a mechanic gets these things to stay torqued down after a repair is beyond me.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/28/2021 3:24:17 PM EDT
[#47]
Yeah I am thinking I will need to pull intake to redo gaskets.
Better piece of mind if I know I got a good squish and seal on the RTV. The idea that I have had a leak, even if it went away getting full torque on the intake, suggests to me the leak will just come back since it has already wet the block/mating surfaces once before. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/29/2021 1:11:04 AM EDT
[#48]
God damn it.
It is the bad case scenario. Cometic head gasket didnt reach up to where the block/head meet at corner of the intake manifold. Not sure how we missed it while building the goddamn engine. I torr the intake off tonight and laid a flashlight in lifter valley. Could catch light shining through a nearly 1/4 inch long by 1/32 gap at all 4 corners. Looks like I get to remove all the accesories and yank the cylinder heads... Fuckin found a felpro review on Summitracing showing the exact problem that somebody else had. Gonna order new head gaskets and hopefully have engine buttoned up by monday. |
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Posted: 6/29/2021 7:58:34 AM EDT
[#49]
Well if that ain't a gotdamned punch in the gut, nothing is.
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Posted: 6/30/2021 2:16:23 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: God damn it. It is the bad case scenario. Cometic head gasket didnt reach up to where the block/head meet at corner of the intake manifold. Not sure how we missed it while building the goddamn engine. I torr the intake off tonight and laid a flashlight in lifter valley. Could catch light shining through a nearly 1/4 inch long by 1/32 gap at all 4 corners. Looks like I get to remove all the accesories and yank the cylinder heads... Fuckin found a felpro review on Summitracing showing the exact problem that somebody else had. Gonna order new head gaskets and hopefully have engine buttoned up by monday. What in the hell I also run Cometic head gaskets, and have for over 20 years. I’ve never run into this, nor have I ever heard of it before. Maybe I’m living under a rock, but I try to keep up on this stuff. Ain’t that just the damnedest thing. I’m curious to know what Cometic says |
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