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Posted: 9/12/2017 10:37:46 PM EDT
Update: installed BOSS coilovers up front with 550lb/in springs, set to 2.5", vibrations are gone. CV angles were too steep.
3rd gen 4Runner, 3" toytec lift, 285s. True lift in the rear is probably closer to 4.5". I've driven this thing maybe 250 miles since I lifted it but it's got a really bad vibration above 55mph. It resonates the way a big diesel engine will sometimes, and I can feel it through the floorboard and steering wheel. Doesn't feel like any poorly balanced wheel I've ever felt. I've had the wheels and tires road force balanced twice at two shops and thinking maybe the double cardan was shot, bought a new Tom Woods driveshaft (those guys are great to deal with, btw), all to no avail. I borrowed a digital angle finder from work today and discovered that the driveshaft and pinion shaft are about 5 degrees apart. Is this enough to cause vibrations like this? I'm not really in the mood to order and install adjustable rear upper control arms to correct the pinion angle if 5 deg is close enough that it shouldn't matter but these vibrations gotta stop. |
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http://www.headstrongoffroad.com/store/p120/Axle_Shim_KIT.html
This is what you need. The rear lift should settle and lower a little with time and miles. |
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I bet it's your CVs.
My Runner vibrates like a fucking paint shaker. It's got a soon to be replaced with OME Daystar lift that's around 3". Toytec didn't sell you a diff drop with your lift? |
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The 4.5" of back lift is way too high. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
I think 5 degrees is too much. Quoted:
I bet it's your CVs. My Runner vibrates like a fucking paint shaker. It's got a soon to be replaced with OME Daystar lift that's around 3". Toytec didn't sell you a diff drop with your lift? |
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I think u joints will only do 2 degrees or less.
You can try dropping the transfer case down some. I did that on my full size blazer and it worked like a charm. All the binding went away. You can also have a new driveshaft made with a double joint and it will fix that also |
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http://www.headstrongoffroad.com/store/p120/Axle_Shim_KIT.html This is what you need. The rear lift should settle and lower a little with time and miles. View Quote I have an 88 4runner with 4 inch leafs in the rear and larger shackles. I don't even have a vibration running stock differ and angle. the front was really extreme through when i did my solid axle swap so i move to a high pinion 3rd member adn helped a little but it's still a pretty extreme angle. only time i've ever had real bad vibrations/shake was when my shackle bolt loosen up. doesn't seem like this is the same type of vibration you have. are all your u joints greased up good? drive shaft bolts tightened tight? |
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Now I think it's in the front end. I put it in AWD and went for a drive and noticed that the vibrations are MUCH worse, they start at about 50mph, and they drop off noticeably when I'm coasting.
I talked to Toytec earlier and they suggested removing the diff drop and seeing if that changes the vibration, which might help isolate a bad CV as opposed to a bad bearing in the diff. The front driveshaft shouldn't spin much in 2wd, right? Quoted:
he should have coils in the rear not leafs. I have an 88 4runner with 4 inch leafs in the rear and larger shackles. I don't even have a vibration running stock differ and angle. the front was really extreme through when i did my solid axle swap so i move to a high pinion 3rd member adn helped a little but it's still a pretty extreme angle. only time i've ever had real bad vibrations/shake was when my shackle bolt loosen up. doesn't seem like this is the same type of vibration you have. are all your u joints greased up good? drive shaft bolts tightened tight? View Quote |
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Changed CV axles. No change in the vibration. I hate this fuckin thing right now.
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I have a 3rd gen runner with Sonoran Steel lift and 285s. Very similar to what you have. Calm down. Mine did the same at first, and I chased it all over the truck. Grease all the zerks in the u joints. The angle of the rear driveshaft is different. After lubing mine and putting a few miles on it, it smoothed out as good or better than it was before. I took the diff drop out. Saw no benefit at all to it.
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Just saw you had a new drive shaft. Aftemarket or factory? May not hurt to take it to a machine shop and have it balanced.No, you shouldn't have to, but...
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Just saw you had a new drive shaft. Aftemarket or factory? May not hurt to take it to a machine shop and have it balanced.No, you shouldn't have to, but... View Quote I'm ruling out the front driveshaft because these vibrations started immediately after I lifted it, and the lift shouldn't have changed anything in the front driveshaft. Does that make sense or is that a possibility? |
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Not rear pinion angle. I put about 500lb of sandbags in the back to squat the truck and got the pinion angle to about 3° with the driveshaft and no change in vibrations.
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I think it's the tires. I had them rotated and balanced a 4th time, and specifically asked them to check runout. They found one was high and "matched" it to the low spot in the wheel. I put matched in quotations because while it made the vibrations better, they're still pretty bad. I left it with them to have a tech drive it (not sure why they didn't do that today...) and balanced again tomorrow.
What's an unacceptable level of runout? These are worse than CHEAP mud tires I had on my last truck, and they cost twice as much. |
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What kind of tires ? Chuck them up on the wheel balancer and spin them with a straight edge at the tire face by hand and see what they have for runout. Do the same with the rim edges on both sides. The driveshaft angles at the transfer case in the front and the rear end need to be within a 1 degree here is the Spicer guide.http://spicerparts.com/anglemaster/measuring-angles
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What kind of tires ? Chuck them up on the wheel balancer and spin them with a straight edge at the tire face by hand and see what they have for runout. Do the same with the rim edges on both sides. The driveshaft angles at the transfer case in the front and the rear end need to be within a 1 degree here is the Spicer guide.http://spicerparts.com/anglemaster/measuring-angles View Quote |
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Definitely the tires. I had them balanced for a fourth time today, and it's significantly better. Not fixed, but better. It feels like new cheap mud tires now instead of paddle tires.
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Alignment good?
My coopers on FJ steelies were a bitch until they road forced em and spun 3/4 180* on the wheel. Much better afterwards. Not a T4R but a tacoma with lift. |
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If the balance helped then yeah, have them put on a road force balancer by someone who really know how to use it. That can be tough to find. We have 12 techs and about half of them really understand how to use the road force . 3 or 4 of them are really great with it. I run BFGs on factory wheels with Spidertrax 1.5 spacers in the front. It drives great. If they set the machine up for least vibration it will even tell you what corner to put what tire on. Its really pretty slick. I can balance with it, but if I need a road force I have one of the best techs do it.
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Alignment good? My coopers on FJ steelies were a bitch until they road forced em and spun 3/4 180* on the wheel. Much better afterwards. Not a T4R but a tacoma with lift. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Alignment good? My coopers on FJ steelies were a bitch until they road forced em and spun 3/4 180* on the wheel. Much better afterwards. Not a T4R but a tacoma with lift. Quoted:
If the balance helped then yeah, have them put on a road force balancer by someone who really know how to use it. That can be tough to find. We have 12 techs and about half of them really understand how to use the road force . 3 or 4 of them are really great with it. I run BFGs on factory wheels with Spidertrax 1.5 spacers in the front. It drives great. If they set the machine up for least vibration it will even tell you what corner to put what tire on. Its really pretty slick. I can balance with it, but if I need a road force I have one of the best techs do it. |
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BFGoodrich KO2s. I don't have a balancer, but the tire shop said one of them was out of round by 0.029". View Quote I just put stock size KO2's on my 2016 (no lift) and they are smooth on 99% of roads. Some roads seem to have waves in them that cause the steering wheel to shimmy a bit but my old Tahoe did that too. |
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I have seen it mentioned that their KO2's were replaced under warranty due to vibrations.
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I hate how it seems like all tires are shit now. Run-out, vibes, needing lots of weights, even on quality tires like BFG etc.
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I'm taking it back to the shop to try to get them to replace the tires today. I wasn't convinced that the pinion angle still wasn't causing some of the vibrations but I went back to Lowes and got another 600lbs of play sand, loaded the back of the 4R down and sagged the rear end by 2" (that's only 2.5" over the sagging stock springs), got pinion angle within 2.5° and it didn't help at all, so at this point it has to be the tires. I've changed everything else.
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Aaaaand it wasn't the tires. All 4 replaced this afternoon, vibrations are still there.
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Aaaaand it wasn't the tires. All 4 replaced this afternoon, vibrations are still there. View Quote |
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I have a very similar set up. Try this before going any further. Torque your wheels lug nuts while its off the ground, even if you can only do one at a time with your jack. I went round and round with this until one day a kid at the tire shop just mentioned out loud, "oh yea, 4Runners do that if you dont torque them in the air". View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Aaaaand it wasn't the tires. All 4 replaced this afternoon, vibrations are still there. How do you get the wheel to hold still while you apply torque? |
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Aaaaand it wasn't the tires. All 4 replaced this afternoon, vibrations are still there. View Quote eta were ther any vibrations at all before the lift? Did you have the tires before the lift or did you do it at the same time? If it started right after the lift I would wonder if it was installed correctly. What about shimming the rear axle? That seems to fix many 3" lift vibrations on Xterras. |
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Put it in 4hi while driving. If it goes away it's your front differential needle bearing. East coast gear supply should have a replacement kit for it.
ETA: Also, measure from the center of your hubs to the bottom of the fenders if they're stock and compare that to the stock measurements. What exact toytec kit did you get? |
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Replaced with KO2s or something different? eta were ther any vibrations at all before the lift? Did you have the tires before the lift or did you do it at the same time? If it started right after the lift I would wonder if it was installed correctly. What about shimming the rear axle? That seems to fix many 3" lift vibrations on Xterras. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Replaced with KO2s or something different? eta were ther any vibrations at all before the lift? Did you have the tires before the lift or did you do it at the same time? If it started right after the lift I would wonder if it was installed correctly. What about shimming the rear axle? That seems to fix many 3" lift vibrations on Xterras. Zero vibrations before the lift, but I had the tires put on as soon as I finished putting the lift on. I did the lift install, so I don't THINK I put it on incorrectly (not sure how you could other than the wrong spring on the wrong side), but you never know. I don't know how that would cause the vibrations like this. Mine's a 5 link rear, so I have to order adjustable upper control arms to adjust pinion angle. Quoted:
Put it in 4hi while driving. If it goes away it's your front differential needle bearing. East coast gear supply should have a replacement kit for it. ETA: Also, measure from the center of your hubs to the bottom of the fenders if they're stock and compare that to the stock measurements. What exact toytec kit did you get? I got the 3" Eibach kit (and added the adjustable panhard bar). I don't remember the measurements, but I ended up with 3.5" up front and 4.5" rear. Taller than I wanted but it clears 285s great! I've tested multiple sets! |
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Driveline vibe is most likely here imo. You may need to spacer your tcase down, or run a double CV driveshaft.
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Driveline vibe is most likely here imo. You may need to spacer your tcase down, or run a double CV driveshaft. View Quote |
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Have you checked for play in the output yoke at the transfer case?
I currently have the same issue on a lifted Explorer and discovered that the transfer case rear output bearing is worn, causing the output yoke to have in/out and up/down play, enough to cause an otherwise perfectly balanced and serviced double-cardan shaft to oscillate around 50-60 MPH.. It can be felt in the wheel but primarily you can feel the oscillation/vibration by putting your hand on the floor or center console just above where the TC is, which was what lead me to inspect the shafts at the TC. |
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KO2s. They were replaced under warranty. Zero vibrations before the lift, but I had the tires put on as soon as I finished putting the lift on. I did the lift install, so I don't THINK I put it on incorrectly (not sure how you could other than the wrong spring on the wrong side), but you never know. I don't know how that would cause the vibrations like this. Mine's a 5 link rear, so I have to order adjustable upper control arms to adjust pinion angle. 4hi at 55mph made the vibrations worse under throttle and no change from 2wd while coasting, which made me think it was the CV axles. I haven't tried it since the second time I had the tires balanced. I'm going to pull the front driveshaft in a little while and see if that changes anything, but I'm not hopeful it is going to make a difference. I got the 3" Eibach kit (and added the adjustable panhard bar). I don't remember the measurements, but I ended up with 3.5" up front and 4.5" rear. Taller than I wanted but it clears 285s great! I've tested multiple sets! View Quote since you got the same thing put on, you can't for sure say it's not the tires until you try something else on. |
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Have you checked for play in the output yoke at the transfer case? I currently have the same issue on a lifted Explorer and discovered that the transfer case rear output bearing is worn, causing the output yoke to have in/out and up/down play, enough to cause an otherwise perfectly balanced and serviced double-cardan shaft to oscillate around 50-60 MPH.. It can be felt in the wheel but primarily you can feel the oscillation/vibration by putting your hand on the floor or center console just above where the TC is, which was what lead me to inspect the shafts at the TC. View Quote |
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Know anyone who has stock wheels/tires that would let you try them on for a drive just to eliminate the tires? since you got the same thing put on, you can't for sure say it's not the tires until you try something else on. View Quote I will say that if this ends up being the tires, BFG needs to fire their entire design group. This is the 5th set of all terrains I've had (had KOs twice) and none of them rode like this. |
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Often times, I see people measuring angles, not knowing what their particular driveshaft requires as far as working angles. Can you take a pic of all u-joints and list the working angle for each?
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Anyone on the Taco forums in your AO who could meet up and swap wheels and tires with you for a bit to troubleshoot it?
It'd be worth a case of beer, I'd think. |
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Why don't you pull the rear drive shaft, put it in 4H and go drive it?
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Are they doing a proper road force; indexing the wheel and tire?
PSI? |
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