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IA, USA
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Posted: 12/13/2022 8:36:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: gastrap]
[#1]
I got my truck home just 9 days after I won it, amazed how fast it went.
It has what looks to be a brand new yellow label control box under the dash, with the old smart box version dirty and in the back seat. I'll have to tear it apart and see if it's ugly inside. Has a pair of Hawker batteries that charged fine, no bulges or leaks, and 4 years old. I changed engine oil and filter and fuel filter, topped off all the fluids and sent in an engine oil sample. Checked and adjusted one wheel bearing. Had to adjust the throttle cable, install an oil pressure gauge, install some mirrors, and clean a few light grounds. Starts instantly, everything works, and it drives great!  Looks like it was a 3ID truck, 3-69 G 3 11, so I guess It was at Fort Stewart. There was paperwork inside that showed it shipped from Rock Island to Red River Arsenal 3 years ago.  |
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Posted: 12/13/2022 9:02:27 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gastrap: I got my truck home just 9 days after I won it, amazed how fast it went. It has what looks to be a brand new yellow label control box under the dash, with the old smart box version dirty and in the back seat. I'll have to tear it apart and see if it's ugly inside. Has a pair of Hawker batteries that charged fine, no bulges or leaks, and 4 years old. I changed engine oil and filter and fuel filter, topped off all the fluids and sent in an engine oil sample. Checked and adjusted one wheel bearing. Had to adjust the throttle cable, install an oil pressure gauge, install some mirrors, and clean a few light grounds. Starts instantly, everything works, and it drives great! Looks like it was a 3ID truck, 3-69 G 3 11, so I guess It was at Fort Stewart. There was paperwork inside that showed it shipped from Rock Island to Red River Arsenal 3 years ago. https://i.imgur.com/IMLr1SJh.jpg Excellent. How is the engine and running gear? |
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IA, USA
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Posted: 12/13/2022 9:14:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: gastrap]
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By belted_guns: Excellent. How is the engine and running gear? |
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Posted: 12/13/2022 9:39:05 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gastrap: I got my truck home just 9 days after I won it, amazed how fast it went. It has what looks to be a brand new yellow label control box under the dash, with the old smart box version dirty and in the back seat. I'll have to tear it apart and see if it's ugly inside. Has a pair of Hawker batteries that charged fine, no bulges or leaks, and 4 years old. I changed engine oil and filter and fuel filter, topped off all the fluids and sent in an engine oil sample. Checked and adjusted one wheel bearing. Had to adjust the throttle cable, install an oil pressure gauge, install some mirrors, and clean a few light grounds. Starts instantly, everything works, and it drives great! Looks like it was a 3ID truck, 3-69 G 3 11, so I guess It was at Fort Stewart. There was paperwork inside that showed it shipped from Rock Island to Red River Arsenal 3 years ago. https://i.imgur.com/IMLr1SJh.jpg Awesome!  Now the real fun begins! 
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Posted: 12/22/2022 7:23:41 PM EDT
[#5]
Anyone out doing any winter driving in their HMMWV's?
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Posted: 12/22/2022 10:36:20 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: Anyone out doing any winter driving in their HMMWV's? I took mine out - we had about 3" - 4" of compacted snow on the roads (which today is ice). It does well going, not so well stopping.  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/22/2022 10:39:06 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mainsail: I took mine out - we had about 3" - 4" of compacted snow on the roads (which today is ice). It does well going, not so well stopping. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/171243/HV1_jpg-2645249.JPG Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mainsail: Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Anyone out doing any winter driving in their HMMWV's? I took mine out - we had about 3" - 4" of compacted snow on the roads (which today is ice). It does well going, not so well stopping. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/171243/HV1_jpg-2645249.JPG The MTs are not a great tire overall. They've always been pretty mediocre in the snow. |
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Posted: 12/30/2022 12:37:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Mainsail]
[#8]
Well, for the 2nd time in less than 6 months I was back changing the glow plugs. I swapped out the OEM ones that were failed for some I got off Erik's but after installation someone pointed out they were likely cheap chyna imports because they were 10mm instead of 3/8ths. I had hoped I would be able to use them until spring when it warmed up some, then swap in the proper NSN ones, but the truck was getting harder and harder to start until it finally wouldn't start at all (lots of white smoke says the GPs aren't working).
I sourced the correct ones from HPG and since it was warm and not raining, I figured it was a good day for it. Left side was easy coming up from underneath- had all four out in like 20 minutes. One was a little swollen and took some effort to remove. I hoped that none on the right side would be swollen since access is so tight. The right side was a nightmare. I started from the back through the doghouse and that one unscrewed easily (anti-seize when I put them in) but the tip was swollen and the plug didn't come out. I moved to the next forward one and it too was swollen, but came out with some wiggling- which is very difficult given how little room there is. The next one was much the same, and the forward-most one came out without drama. Back to the aft one and using a trim removal tool that had a slot just perfect to fit below the threads of the plug, and lots of prying, I managed to finally get it out. I wish I had the extractor tool! The right side took over three hours and my hands are hamburger. I had to remove the air intake hose and the cooling hoses (which drip nonstop). But it's finished and the truck starts easily again. The pic shows the plugs, all swollen to some degree. The one in the middle standing proud is the correct NSN new plug for comparison. Only one tested bad due to high resistance, the rest tested bad for being open circuit.  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/30/2022 8:32:21 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mainsail: Well, for the 2nd time in less than 6 months I was back changing the glow plugs. I swapped out the OEM ones that were failed for some I got off Erik's but after installation someone pointed out they were likely cheap chyna imports because they were 10mm instead of 3/8ths. I had hoped I would be able to use them until spring when it warmed up some, then swap in the proper NSN ones, but the truck was getting harder and harder to start until it finally wouldn't start at all (lots of white smoke says the GPs aren't working). I sourced the correct ones from HPG and since it was warm and not raining, I figured it was a good day for it. Left side was easy coming up from underneath- had all four out in like 20 minutes. One was a little swollen and took some effort to remove. I hoped that none on the right side would be swollen since access is so tight. The right side was a nightmare. I started from the back through the doghouse and that one unscrewed easily (anti-seize when I put them in) but the tip was swollen and the plug didn't come out. I moved to the next forward one and it too was swollen, but came out with some wiggling- which is very difficult given how little room there is. The next one was much the same, and the forward-most one came out without drama. Back to the aft one and using a trim removal tool that had a slot just perfect to fit below the threads of the plug, and lots of prying, I managed to finally get it out. I wish I had the extractor tool! The right side took over three hours and my hands are hamburger. I had to remove the air intake hose and the cooling hoses (which drip nonstop). But it's finished and the truck starts easily again. The pic shows the plugs, all swollen to some degree. The one in the middle standing proud is the correct NSN new plug for comparison. Only one tested bad due to high resistance, the rest tested bad for being open circuit. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/171243/BadGPs_jpg-2654043.JPG Interesting... I hadn't seen that "correct" style. Only ones I've used look like the rest. Good info! |
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Posted: 12/30/2022 9:06:40 PM EDT
[#10]
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Posted: 12/30/2022 9:30:57 PM EDT
[#11]
@Mainsail are those the blem glow plugs HPG has on sale or where they new ones? Any links and cost?
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Posted: 12/30/2022 11:13:19 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: @Mainsail are those the blem glow plugs HPG has on sale or where they new ones? Any links and cost? They weren't called blems when I ordered them, that's new. They were just under $80 then, and when they came they were just in a small ziplock bag. I sent them an email with a picture of the plugs looking less than new, mentioning that I thought I was buying new ones and they sent me out eight more, also used. At least now they're labeling them correctly. They all test good and the NSN are the proper plug so I'm not worried about them. It all started when I mentioned they were 10mm but the ones I pulled out of the engine were 3/8ths. Several people pointed out that the 10mm ones were junk. |
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Posted: 1/4/2023 8:36:14 PM EDT
[#13]
Just got my USMC 1151A1 EUC and the USMC 1114 approved. Now to get them shipped.
and if you ask, because two is one, and now i have spares to keep one running. Hey, they both have turbo 6.5, and Baja tires. I know. but once i started bidding... |
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Posted: 1/5/2023 3:06:44 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By belted_guns: Just got my USMC 1151A1 EUC and the USMC 1114 approved. Now to get them shipped. and if you ask, because two is one, and now i have spares to keep one running. Hey, they both have turbo 6.5, and Baja tires. I know. but once i started bidding... Congrats! Post up pics when they arrive! |
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Posted: 1/11/2023 4:00:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: belted_guns]
[#15]
The 1114 arrived today at my place and the.1151 arrived at retiredwarhorses for the makeover.
The 1114 oil was full and black, transmission fluid was full and purple, radiator was full and green, breaks were stiff and worked, engine fired on first crank, no blowby, no smoke. This evening I will pressure wash. It looks like it has been out to pasture for a while. It has 2018 inventory sticker on it.  Attached File Attached File Attached FileAnd it has a rear winch. Didn't see that previously. |
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Posted: 1/11/2023 4:54:43 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By belted_guns: The 1114 arrived today at my place and the.1151 arrived at retiredwarhorses for the makeover. The 1114 oil was full and black, transmission fluid was full and purple, radiator was full and green, breaks were stiff and worked, engine fired on first crank, no blowby, no smoke. This evening I will pressure wash. It looks like it has been out to pasture for a while. It has 2018 inventory sticker on it.https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/256915/20230111_115557_jpg-2668613.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/256915/20230111_120344_jpg-2668614.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/256915/20230111_110149_jpg-2668615.JPG And it has a rear winch. Didn't see that previously. Nice score on the rear winch! |
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Posted: 1/11/2023 6:51:57 PM EDT
[#17]
Very nice score. Can't wait to see you build it out.
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Posted: 1/12/2023 8:45:04 PM EDT
[#18]
after getting a good look at it, probably gonna remove the rear AC unit and convert it to a 4door soft top.
Anyone here remove those old AC units? Anyone here put a soft top on something like this? I cleaned it today, removed to seats and this weekend are the fluid changes and pressure wash |
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Posted: 1/12/2023 8:55:09 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By belted_guns: after getting a good look at it, probably gonna remove the rear AC unit and convert it to a 4door soft top. Anyone here remove those old AC units? Anyone here put a soft top on something like this? I cleaned it today, removed to seats and this weekend are the fluid changes and pressure wash Haven't removed the AC but, I have seen folks make those Red Dot units work with soft tops. If it still functions, I'd be pretty tempted to keep it unless you just want to free up the space it takes up. As for the soft top, there used to be Breton Industries who put out turn key kits to make a truck a 4 door soft top but they stopped direct sales. Not sure who is doing soft parts these days unfortunately. It's pretty straightforward though. You basically just need the B-pillar, C-pillar, side rails, bows, doors, top and rear curtain. The Breton kits had odds and ends like footman loops, IIRC. |
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Posted: 1/12/2023 9:58:55 PM EDT
[#20]
Mac Motors recently had 4 man soft tops for a good price and as Ryan said pretty easy as you just need the C pillar, b pillar, side rails, and windshield channel. There is also a guy on facebook selling soft tops in custom solid colors if you want to go that direction. A soft top ight now that is a lot cheaper than a hard top with turret and rear metal curtain.
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Posted: 1/12/2023 10:14:12 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: Mac Motors recently had 4 man soft tops for a good price and as Ryan said pretty easy as you just need the C pillar, b pillar, side rails, and windshield channel. There is also a guy on facebook selling soft tops in custom solid colors if you want to go that direction. A soft top ight now that is a lot cheaper than a hard top with turret and rear metal curtain. I knew I was forgetting something. 
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Posted: 1/12/2023 10:47:41 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: I knew I was forgetting something. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Mac Motors recently had 4 man soft tops for a good price and as Ryan said pretty easy as you just need the C pillar, b pillar, side rails, and windshield channel. There is also a guy on facebook selling soft tops in custom solid colors if you want to go that direction. A soft top ight now that is a lot cheaper than a hard top with turret and rear metal curtain. I knew I was forgetting something. nice. ok. didn't think about the windshield but guess the top needs to attach to something. :) may i ask what mac motors is? ah just googled it. very cool. I need parts, like seat belts since 3 of 4 are jammed. side mirrors, and engine parts. thanks for that referral. |
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Posted: 1/12/2023 11:08:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jake-cutter]
[#23]
Mac Motors and ebay are my usual go to for parts. I use the parts diagrams from various sites such as Kascar, Steel Soldiers, or from Ryan to search for the parts diagram and then look up the numbers. Other sites I have bought from are Kascar (watch for repo parts), Hummer Parts Guy, Equipment Parts Sales, and guys on the facebook groups that regularly have parts (greg and todd).
Oh and on the windshield, only need to change the seal on top from the hard top seal to the soft top channel. |
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Posted: 1/14/2023 10:25:08 PM EDT
[#24]
For those thinking about getting the newer style glow plugs, Hummer Parts Guy currently has them on sale for $65. At that price I ordered a set.
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Posted: 1/14/2023 10:31:56 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: For those thinking about getting the newer style glow plugs, Hummer Parts Guy currently has them on sale for $65. At that price I ordered a set. As did I.
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Posted: 1/14/2023 10:35:59 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By belted_guns: Anyone here put a soft top on something like this? My soft top was toast when it arrived. I got a replacement from Blue Ox. Better made than the gov version and the rear curtain has a large (usable) window.  Attached File |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 12:17:57 AM EDT
[#27]
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USA
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Posted: 1/25/2023 8:16:14 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryGen 1 NV? |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 8:38:42 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By H1-HUMMER: Gen 1 NV? No, cell phone night vision camera. |
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USA
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Posted: 2/4/2023 2:30:49 PM EDT
[#30]
Looks like my local NG just got them a HMMWV washing machine.
https://flic.kr/p/2ofbYmG |
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Posted: 2/4/2023 5:09:54 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By H1-HUMMER: Looks like my local NG just got them a HMMWV washing machine. https://flic.kr/p/2ofbYmG Neat! |
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Posted: 2/9/2023 11:29:35 PM EDT
[#32]
Since I started going down the rabbit hole of govplanet, I’ve also started looking at the cargo trailers. Anyone have one? What kind of plugs do they use for lights? Can they be converted to a normal 4 pin easily?
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Posted: 2/10/2023 12:26:39 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JAD762: Since I started going down the rabbit hole of govplanet, I’ve also started looking at the cargo trailers. Anyone have one? What kind of plugs do they use for lights? Can they be converted to a normal 4 pin easily? I've owned two M1101 trailers, both gov auction wins. The first was back in the govliqudation days. I paid $950 for it and loved it, but when I got married I needed the garage space so I sold it for $2100. I converted it to 7-pin round connector. There's a junction for the wiring about 1/3rd way back from the tongue- easy to separate it there and wire in whatever connector you want. You'll need some mil packard connectors to do it that way, but it allows you to revert back easily, and it's best for keeping the integrity of the wiring. This is the second one I won. I was watching the auction for a generator on a trailer but it went too high so I bailed. There were eight to ten M1101/1102 trailers that day and the people that wanted one bid and won, so the bidding slowed. I got this one for $750, sold the HMMWV wheels for $400, so basically paid $350 for a $9,000 trailer that needed nothing. I built a converter box for this one, and several year later am glad I did because I now have a HMMWV to pull it. LED bulbs work for 12v or 24v.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/10/2023 12:29:35 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JAD762: Since I started going down the rabbit hole of govplanet, I’ve also started looking at the cargo trailers. Anyone have one? What kind of plugs do they use for lights? Can they be converted to a normal 4 pin easily? I've got one of the 1101s (the 1102s are actually the same). They use a standard NATO 12 pin plug. It's not hard to convert them to a 4 pin and 12v lights. All the circuits are numbered and it's easy enough to attach the needed ones to a 4 pin. But, if you spend a little more, you can just get a 4 pin to NATO plug adapter and convert the trailer to LED (multivolt) lighting, if it doesn't have it already. This way you don't have to hack up the trailer wiring should you decide to sell it. With that you can tow it behind any civi vehicle you want with a pintle adapter. |
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Posted: 2/14/2023 12:40:08 PM EDT
[#35]
Thanks guys.
I don't think I appreciated how big they were until I saw mailsail's pic. That thing would look pretty comical behind my little Frontier. Kinda makes me want one more. |
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Posted: 2/14/2023 1:11:15 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JAD762: Thanks guys. I don't think I appreciated how big they were until I saw mailsail's pic. That thing would look pretty comical behind my little Frontier. Kinda makes me want one more. As big as they are, they're aluminum and very light weight. I can move mine around by myself no problem. |
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Posted: 2/14/2023 1:44:21 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: As big as they are, they're aluminum and very light weight. I can move mine around by myself no problem. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Originally Posted By JAD762: Thanks guys. I don't think I appreciated how big they were until I saw mailsail's pic. That thing would look pretty comical behind my little Frontier. Kinda makes me want one more. As big as they are, they're aluminum and very light weight. I can move mine around by myself no problem. They are bigger than most utility trailers you'll find on the civilian market, but far better. When I had the first one I lived in a townhouse and couldn't keep it outside, so it had to live in the garage. The trailer cleared the sides with about 5" on each side, too tight for me to back it in with the jeep, so I just got it close, disconnected, and used the landing gear wheel to push it in by hand. They're light for their size and easy to maneuver by hand. My Grand Cherokee isn't a large vehicle at all, probably considered a mid-size SUV, and while the trailer looks big, it doesn't look too big. It gets complements whenever I park it at home depot / lowes. Keep in mind the M1101 and M1102 are identical trailers, so despite what the dataplate says the max load is for the M1101, it's in reality the same as the M1102. The dataplate limits are for the towing vehicle as some HMMWs were not suited to pull the heavier load. With a half yard of gravel I can barely tell it's back there, although with a full yard (2900# maybe?) I can feel it and makes me appreciate the surge brakes. I've hauled a full pallet of retaining wall blocks in mine, close to 2200# as well. They don't dump, so keep that in mind. For the gravel it was better I didn't dump it, since it was much easier to rake it off the tailgate into the wheelbarrow than it would be to shovel it up off the ground. |
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USA
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Posted: 2/14/2023 6:39:00 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mainsail: They are bigger than most utility trailers you'll find on the civilian market, but far better. When I had the first one I lived in a townhouse and couldn't keep it outside, so it had to live in the garage. The trailer cleared the sides with about 5" on each side, too tight for me to back it in with the jeep, so I just got it close, disconnected, and used the landing gear wheel to push it in by hand. They're light for their size and easy to maneuver by hand. My Grand Cherokee isn't a large vehicle at all, probably considered a mid-size SUV, and while the trailer looks big, it doesn't look too big. It gets complements whenever I park it at home depot / lowes. Keep in mind the M1101 and M1102 are identical trailers, so despite what the dataplate says the max load is for the M1101, it's in reality the same as the M1102. The dataplate limits are for the towing vehicle as some HMMWs were not suited to pull the heavier load. With a half yard of gravel I can barely tell it's back there, although with a full yard (2900# maybe?) I can feel it and makes me appreciate the surge brakes. I've hauled a full pallet of retaining wall blocks in mine, close to 2200# as well. They don't dump, so keep that in mind. For the gravel it was better I didn't dump it, since it was much easier to rake it off the tailgate into the wheelbarrow than it would be to shovel it up off the ground. You realize most of the axles are rated at 5200-6000# and some instances 7000#. The company I use to work for we sold 100's of axles to a company called Drash in Huntsville, they make trailers that hold tents and hvac units for the military. We tried to R&D them into the 21 first century, but they loved hyd drum brakes and retarded Titan actuators from the 60's. |
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Posted: 2/15/2023 3:00:20 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By H1-HUMMER: You realize most of the axles are rated at 5200-6000# and some instances 7000#. The company I use to work for we sold 100's of axles to a company called Drash in Huntsville, they make trailers that hold tents and hvac units for the military. We tried to R&D them into the 21 first century, but they loved hyd drum brakes and retarded Titan actuators from the 60's. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By H1-HUMMER: Originally Posted By Mainsail: They are bigger than most utility trailers you'll find on the civilian market, but far better. When I had the first one I lived in a townhouse and couldn't keep it outside, so it had to live in the garage. The trailer cleared the sides with about 5" on each side, too tight for me to back it in with the jeep, so I just got it close, disconnected, and used the landing gear wheel to push it in by hand. They're light for their size and easy to maneuver by hand. My Grand Cherokee isn't a large vehicle at all, probably considered a mid-size SUV, and while the trailer looks big, it doesn't look too big. It gets complements whenever I park it at home depot / lowes. Keep in mind the M1101 and M1102 are identical trailers, so despite what the dataplate says the max load is for the M1101, it's in reality the same as the M1102. The dataplate limits are for the towing vehicle as some HMMWs were not suited to pull the heavier load. With a half yard of gravel I can barely tell it's back there, although with a full yard (2900# maybe?) I can feel it and makes me appreciate the surge brakes. I've hauled a full pallet of retaining wall blocks in mine, close to 2200# as well. They don't dump, so keep that in mind. For the gravel it was better I didn't dump it, since it was much easier to rake it off the tailgate into the wheelbarrow than it would be to shovel it up off the ground. You realize most of the axles are rated at 5200-6000# and some instances 7000#. The company I use to work for we sold 100's of axles to a company called Drash in Huntsville, they make trailers that hold tents and hvac units for the military. We tried to R&D them into the 21 first century, but they loved hyd drum brakes and retarded Titan actuators from the 60's. I didn't realize that but .... don't see the significance. The max payload of the M1101/M1102 is 2740# for a max vehicle weight rating of 4200# - that's the max the trailer is rated for, axle capacity notwithstanding. The weight capacity of the axle is only one component of the trailer's capacity. Drash couldn't use your suggestions because they signed a government contract to build the trailers to a drawing for a specified unit cost. So yeah, lots of better materials and components may be available, but the contract price is the contract price. |
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Posted: 2/15/2023 11:36:28 PM EDT
[#40]
I received the X-Doors from kentucky surplus. nice fiberglass doors. got them installed. now I need to get them painted. I tried painting one door with behr exterior paint, recommended by many folks who have painted their vehicles. anyway, it seemed to stick ok. i think i problaby should rough up the surface more though.
 Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/15/2023 11:39:59 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By belted_guns: I received the X-Doors from kentucky surplus. nice fiberglass doors. got them installed. now I need to get them painted. I tried painting one door with behr exterior paint, recommended by many folks who have painted their vehicles. anyway, it seemed to stick ok. i think i problaby should rough up the surface more though. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/256915/20230211_220004_jpg-2712753.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/256915/20230214_194732_jpg-2712754.JPG You're the first person I know of with these. You're going to have to give us an in depth review on the fit and finish.
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Posted: 2/19/2023 10:37:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: belted_guns]
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: You're the first person I know of with these. You're going to have to give us an in depth review on the fit and finish. Sure, I am presently painting the truck so the doors are off. 1) Kentucky has great customer service and easy purchase process. 2) doors come with a complete mounting kit, specific for each door position. 3) each door is probably 30-40lbs. Min 1/4in solid fiberglass. Windows are dot glass. They appear to be direct copy of the mil xdoor. All fittings are the same. 4) one thing I have a question to mil folks who used these vehicles with xdoors, are they hard to open with the latch? When the door is closed, the weather seal is compressed all around the door. This puts a fair amount of pressure on the latch. I am fine with the stiffness of the latch but my wife is unable to open the door. I have another week of painting before I put the doors back on. I will have a couple of ex mil folks try them as a comparison to what they remember. But the doors are solid and seal all around the frame.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/19/2023 11:45:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Ruck]
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By belted_guns: 4) one thing I have a question to mil folks who used these vehicles with xdoors, are they hard to open with the latch? When the door is closed, the weather seal is compressed all around the door. This puts a fair amount of pressure on the latch. I am fine with the stiffness of the latch but my wife is unable to open the door. I have new weather seal on my X-doors and aftermarket weather seal on the truck body. It makes a tight seal but, like you mention, makes it a bit tough to open the doors with the operating rod they're designed with. It helps to pull in on the door to take pressure off the latch. To fix your problem with just the door seals, you can try shimming the latch on the door inwards with washers slightly. Just be warned, the more you shim it inwards to make the door easier to open, the less the door seals. I'll try to remember to take a pic of mine tomorrow. Also, spend a lot of time aligning the doors and strikes. They are very sensitive to alignment. You wouldn't think so but it makes a big difference. I've tried to address my issue coming at it from a different angle. If you've seen the hard half doors, they have paddle handles on the insides like the outside ones.  Attached FileI've thought having paddle handles on the insides of the X-doors would make them easier to open but, I've looked for paddle handles that would fit the cross piece and there doesn't seem to be anything quite that thin. Closest I came was some Jeep half door paddle handles but even they were just a hair too wide. I think the only solution would be some custom cross pieces that could accommodate a regular size paddle handle. I just lack the ability to create a wider cross piece. (I really need to get my half doors painted and finished.  )
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Posted: 2/23/2023 8:44:27 PM EDT
[#44]
Anyone need some soft skin doors?
https://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/HMMWV-Parts-%2821%29-Assorted-HMMWV-Humvee-Doors-Arizona/8881488?h=345-22%2C88234 |
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Posted: 2/23/2023 10:47:02 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Stillnothere: Anyone need some soft skin doors? https://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/HMMWV-Parts-%2821%29-Assorted-HMMWV-Humvee-Doors-Arizona/8881488?h=345-22%2C88234 Decent deal for 21, even if they need some work. The 15% fee they have now doesn't help though. 
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Posted: 2/24/2023 12:38:21 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Decent deal for 21, even if they need some work. The 15% fee they have now doesn't help though. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Originally Posted By Stillnothere: Anyone need some soft skin doors? https://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/HMMWV-Parts-%2821%29-Assorted-HMMWV-Humvee-Doors-Arizona/8881488?h=345-22%2C88234 Decent deal for 21, even if they need some work. The 15% fee they have now doesn't help though. Looking at the NSNs they appear to be left side doors. |
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Posted: 2/24/2023 12:48:27 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mainsail: Looking at the NSNs they appear to be left side doors. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mainsail: Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Originally Posted By Stillnothere: Anyone need some soft skin doors? https://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/HMMWV-Parts-%2821%29-Assorted-HMMWV-Humvee-Doors-Arizona/8881488?h=345-22%2C88234 Decent deal for 21, even if they need some work. The 15% fee they have now doesn't help though. Looking at the NSNs they appear to be left side doors. Never trust GP.  It does look like most might be LH though. |
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Posted: 2/25/2023 2:55:12 AM EDT
[#48]
M1101/M1102 is penciiled into my project book. I have set of near new fiberglass M998 troop seats I want to mount in the center, facing outward, for Veterans to sit on during parades and such
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Posted: 2/25/2023 3:03:42 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: I have new weather seal on my X-doors and aftermarket weather seal on the truck body. It makes a tight seal but, like you mention, makes it a bit tough to open the doors with the operating rod they're designed with. It helps to pull in on the door to take pressure off the latch. To fix your problem with just the door seals, you can try shimming the latch on the door inwards with washers slightly. Just be warned, the more you shim it inwards to make the door easier to open, the less the door seals. I'll try to remember to take a pic of mine tomorrow. Also, spend a lot of time aligning the doors and strikes. They are very sensitive to alignment. You wouldn't think so but it makes a big difference. I've tried to address my issue coming at it from a different angle. If you've seen the hard half doors, they have paddle handles on the insides like the outside ones. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/102941/IMG_8709_jpg-2717887.JPG I've thought having paddle handles on the insides of the X-doors would make them easier to open but, I've looked for paddle handles that would fit the cross piece and there doesn't seem to be anything quite that thin. Closest I came was some Jeep half door paddle handles but even they were just a hair too wide. I think the only solution would be some custom cross pieces that could accommodate a regular size paddle handle. I just lack the ability to create a wider cross piece. (I really need to get my half doors painted and finished. ) Attached File |
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Posted: 2/25/2023 11:10:17 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By stoner63a: Some of the GMV had plate half doors with integral swing arm pintles: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/43902/DUMVEE_121_jpg-2724454.JPG Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By stoner63a: Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: I have new weather seal on my X-doors and aftermarket weather seal on the truck body. It makes a tight seal but, like you mention, makes it a bit tough to open the doors with the operating rod they're designed with. It helps to pull in on the door to take pressure off the latch. To fix your problem with just the door seals, you can try shimming the latch on the door inwards with washers slightly. Just be warned, the more you shim it inwards to make the door easier to open, the less the door seals. I'll try to remember to take a pic of mine tomorrow. Also, spend a lot of time aligning the doors and strikes. They are very sensitive to alignment. You wouldn't think so but it makes a big difference. I've tried to address my issue coming at it from a different angle. If you've seen the hard half doors, they have paddle handles on the insides like the outside ones. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/102941/IMG_8709_jpg-2717887.JPG I've thought having paddle handles on the insides of the X-doors would make them easier to open but, I've looked for paddle handles that would fit the cross piece and there doesn't seem to be anything quite that thin. Closest I came was some Jeep half door paddle handles but even they were just a hair too wide. I think the only solution would be some custom cross pieces that could accommodate a regular size paddle handle. I just lack the ability to create a wider cross piece. (I really need to get my half doors painted and finished. )https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/43902/DUMVEE_121_jpg-2724454.JPG Those are pretty interesting! Stoner always bringing the cool pics.
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