Posted: 9/21/2015 9:11:47 AM EDT
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Working on a 2003 chevy impala. Need help as I am running out of ideas.
Car just stopped running while the owner was driving at 45mph after just starting it and driving about 1.5 miles. She thought the car had run out of gas, so I came, put 2 gallons in and it would not start or attempt to crank. Tried jumping it and still no attempt to crank. With the key not in it the dashboard information screen flashes the low battery symbol every 10 seconds and somewhere under the dash something makes a series of 7 beeps then a one second pause and then 2 beeps. I checked the battery rundown protection relay and it functions normally but it was very hot. When you turn the key to the run position the dash information screen flashes battery, check engine, security, low fuel. The ODB2 port is not communicating at all to the 2 different scan tools I connected to it. Tested EVERY fuse in the car and replaced 2. Jumped the starter with a screw driver and it cranks. No spark with a spark tester when the cranking and the key in the run position. Put a new ignition switch in and no change. The ignition switch had just been replaced in May. I am reading things online that suggest it may be the body control module. However that part is $150 plus we would have to tow the car to a dealer so they can program it to that specific car. You can't just take the module to a dealer and have them test it. They want the whole car there. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. |
does this one have the side post battery under the back seat ? side post batteries have a issue where the terminal can break away from the inside of the battery and still look like its on there this can happen with the battery in any location but tends to happen more with the ones under the back seat ... also many of the side post batteries on gm vehicles have 2 eyelets on the positive side with a spacer in between them and can corrode and cause headaches . start cheap and easy ... take the battery out and have it tested and charged if needed and or replaced and clean the terminals and battery cables ends and make sure battery connection at jumpstart point is tight as well as at the fuse box . pic of the side post terminal I was talking about 
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Quoted:
does this one have the side post battery under the back seat ? side post batteries have a issue where the terminal can break away from the inside of the battery and still look like its on there this can happen with the battery in any location but tends to happen more with the ones under the back seat ... also many of the side post batteries on gm vehicles have 2 eyelets on the positive side with a spacer in between them and can corrode and cause headaches . start cheap and easy ... take the battery out and have it tested and charged if needed and or replaced and clean the terminals and battery cables ends and make sure battery connection at jumpstart point is tight as well as at the fuse box . pic of the side post terminal I was talking about http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v221/DeeGee/Sidepostdamage.jpg No. the battery is in the engine compartment. It isn't leaking and it had 12.2 volts. |
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Remove, FULLY charge, and LOAD-TEST the battery. ( it's probably junk ) . While the battery is OUT of the vehicle, remove the red and black vinyl battery terminal cover sleeves, and scrape, wire wheel, or file any hard corrosion off the metal ring terminals. Replace the battery terminal bolts, if the threads are damaged.
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A chevy dealer tech told me that the beeping noise from under the dash is not something from the factory. I am thinking maybe this car had an aftermarket alarm on it at some point and that is the problem. Should be easy to check. Look for a control module up under the dash. Could be an ignition immobilizer system which is losing communication with the ignition switch and activating. It would need to be pulled out. Why was the ignition switch replaced before? |
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Quoted:
Remove, FULLY charge, and LOAD-TEST the battery. ( it's probably junk ) . While the battery is OUT of the vehicle, remove the red and black vinyl battery terminal cover sleeves, and scrape, wire wheel, or file any hard corrosion off the metal ring terminals. Replace the battery terminal bolts, if the threads are damaged. He said he can jump the starter and get it to crank. |
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Quoted:
Should be easy to check. Look for a control module up under the dash. Could be an ignition immobilizer system which is losing communication with the ignition switch and activating. It would need to be pulled out. Why was the ignition switch replaced before? Quoted:
Quoted:
A chevy dealer tech told me that the beeping noise from under the dash is not something from the factory. I am thinking maybe this car had an aftermarket alarm on it at some point and that is the problem. Should be easy to check. Look for a control module up under the dash. Could be an ignition immobilizer system which is losing communication with the ignition switch and activating. It would need to be pulled out. Why was the ignition switch replaced before? Well I have the dash taken apart a good deal and I am not seeing a control module. That doesn't mean it is not buried further in. I am thinking maybe whatever is making the beeps is it but I can't find the damn thing. If I was absolutely certain that whatever is making the beeps is the problem then I'd take more stuff apart to find it. The ignition switch was replaced by me back in May because this car came from an auction where you don't get the keys (confiscated cars). So the only way to get a key for the ignition was to buy a new ignition switch and lock cylinder. Tried getting a key made at a dealer and that key only worked the doors and not the ignition. So a previous owner must have changed the lock. |
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Quoted:
Well I have the dash taken apart a good deal and I am not seeing a control module. That doesn't mean it is not buried further in. I am thinking maybe whatever is making the beeps is it but I can't find the damn thing. If I was absolutely certain that whatever is making the beeps is the problem then I'd take more stuff apart to find it. The ignition switch was replaced by me back in May because this car came from an auction where you don't get the keys (confiscated cars). So the only way to get a key for the ignition was to buy a new ignition switch and lock cylinder. Tried getting a key made at a dealer and that key only worked the doors and not the ignition. So a previous owner must have changed the lock. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
A chevy dealer tech told me that the beeping noise from under the dash is not something from the factory. I am thinking maybe this car had an aftermarket alarm on it at some point and that is the problem. Should be easy to check. Look for a control module up under the dash. Could be an ignition immobilizer system which is losing communication with the ignition switch and activating. It would need to be pulled out. Why was the ignition switch replaced before? Well I have the dash taken apart a good deal and I am not seeing a control module. That doesn't mean it is not buried further in. I am thinking maybe whatever is making the beeps is it but I can't find the damn thing. If I was absolutely certain that whatever is making the beeps is the problem then I'd take more stuff apart to find it. The ignition switch was replaced by me back in May because this car came from an auction where you don't get the keys (confiscated cars). So the only way to get a key for the ignition was to buy a new ignition switch and lock cylinder. Tried getting a key made at a dealer and that key only worked the doors and not the ignition. So a previous owner must have changed the lock. Hmm. This could even be a problem with the factory immobilizer. There are generally 2 types of OEM systems. One that has a chip in the key that communicates with the ignition module, and one that sends current through the ignition switch and through the key and checks for resistance. If your current setup is intermittantly failing it is possible it's the oem system, although the beeps do smell like aftermarket. Did you replace with a Chevy OEM ignition switch and key? |
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I replaced the lock cylinder and key with ones from a junk yard. The ignition switch was aftermarket bought in a parts store.
When I put the new ignition switch in back in May, the car's computer had to go thru a process to learn the new ignition switch and key. I had to turn the key to the run position, then the security light would light up on the dash and then I had to turn the car off and wait 10 minutes. I had to do this 3 times until the car's computer would let the car start. When I put the new ignition switch in this time, nothing changed. There was no security light on the dash. |
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Quoted:
I replaced the lock cylinder and key with ones from a junk yard. The ignition switch was aftermarket bought in a parts store. When I put the new ignition switch in back in May, the car's computer had to go thru a process to learn the new ignition switch and key. I had to turn the key to the run position, then the security light would light up on the dash and then I had to turn the car off and wait 10 minutes. I had to do this 3 times until the car's computer would let the car start. When I put the new ignition switch in this time, nothing changed. There was no security light on the dash. I would try relearning the key. I'm suspicious that either the switch went bad or it cause the computer to think it's being jacked. Other than that, if you can't find an aftermarket module, I'd replace the switch with a new one. Wouldn't be the first time that a new one suddenly went bad. |