Posted: 9/10/2015 2:22:40 AM EDT
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Working with a 1993 Chevrolet K1500. Drivers fender and hood was replaced during a repaint.
I am used to the hinge styles where you have up and down and left to right, all within the hood hinges itself. The hood hinge has a fixed pivot/bolt on a bracket on the cowl/upper fender area, and one fixed hole located in/on the fender. The brackets attach to the hood with 2 bolts each side, that are a little slotted for what I believed is front and back and left to right adjustment. Hood hinges were marked/traced prior to removal as well as bolt locations. I also went ahead and took measurements and replicated these as closely as I could on the new hood. The problem is that the gap appears to be correct at the sides/fender area. When the hood is down the drivers side fits fine, a little lower at back area/cowl. The passenger side front is several inches 2-3" away from closing at the supportl area. I have tried messing around with it and verified my measurements, but am having a hard time understanding how I can fix this issue with the limited adjustment provided by the hinges/brackets. The hood opens and shuts without binding. Anyone care to share a secret? At this point I am starting to chalk it up to a slightly low fender, or a poorly stamped hood. Thanks |
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With that design you use the hinges for height and fore/aft adjustment. The fixed pivot point on the hood hinge and fender determine your panel gap at the rear and that is what you are stuck with without a lot of extra work. So....if the gap is acceptable at the Passenger-side rear, then you loosen the fender bolts behind the grille and bumper to match the gap you already have at the rear of the fender/hood. You may have to loosen the wheelhouse blots as well.
If the gap at the rear of the hood and fender are ugly also, you are stuck cutting the welds to free the hinge from the hood and re-welding into the desired position. The problem you are having is a common one with those trucks and needs dealt with often whether using aftermarket or OEM parts. They are very inconsistent. Also realize that due to the fixed pivot points, if your fender is too far ahead, this will result in the hood sitting crooked/out of square. You may find you have to loosen and move the rad support around as well. |
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Quoted:
With that design you use the hinges for height and fore/aft adjustment. The fixed pivot point on the hood hinge and fender determine your panel gap at the rear and that is what you are stuck with without a lot of extra work. So....if the gap is acceptable at the Passenger-side rear, then you loosen the fender bolts behind the grille and bumper to match the gap you already have at the rear of the fender/hood. You may have to loosen the wheelhouse blots as well. If the gap at the rear of the hood and fender are ugly also, you are stuck cutting the welds to free the hinge from the hood and re-welding into the desired position. The problem you are having is a common one with those trucks and needs dealt with often whether using aftermarket or OEM parts. They are very inconsistent. Also realize that due to the fixed pivot points, if your fender is too far ahead, this will result in the hood sitting crooked/out of square. You may find you have to loosen and move the rad support around as well. Thanks for the info bud. I wasn't sure I was correctly understood this design, since it is so different from what I usually see haha. |