Posted: 1/12/2014 11:27:57 AM EDT
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Screw it. Ditching the car. Thanks for the responses guys.
The vehicle in question is a 1998 Nissan Altima. The symptoms are, it stopped running while being driven and would not restart. My wife killed the starter trying to get it started again before calling me. That's been replaced. It's not throwing any codes per the Actron AutoScanner Plus. It has spark. The fuel pressure as measured at the output side of the fuel filter is almost 48 (eta: key on, engine off and when cranking after a brief dip in pressure). Chart that came with the tester states 34-43 psi. What's the diagnosis? Faulty fuel pressure regulator? Any assistance is greatly appreciated. ETA Replaced the following: Starter Plugs Ignition rotor Distributor |
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Does it run off a single coil?
I recently had my accord give up the single coil in the distributor. It started to work again when I actually tested for spark, so I wrote off the coil. I got about 10 miles down the road and it died again and was done for good. If its a single coil system you may want to look deeper into the coil, mine going out also destroyed the cat. |
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I have diagnosed and replaced several distributors in the past on those. As a Nissan tech I've replaced dozens of distributors. Sometimes they throw a code, often they do not. Frequently once they cool down the engine will start and run for a bit. If it dies and you don't have spark replace the distributor. |
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Quoted:
As a Nissan tech I've replaced dozens of distributors. Sometimes they throw a code, often they do not. Frequently once they cool down the engine will start and run for a bit. If it dies and you don't have spark replace the distributor. Quoted:
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I have diagnosed and replaced several distributors in the past on those. As a Nissan tech I've replaced dozens of distributors. Sometimes they throw a code, often they do not. Frequently once they cool down the engine will start and run for a bit. If it dies and you don't have spark replace the distributor. I already replaced the plugs, distributor and ignition rotor. That didn't help. It has spark. I checked by pulling a plug wire, putting the old plug I change out in it and connecting the plug to the negative battery cable via a jumper cable. My co-worker recommended I use the Erase Codes option even though no codes where shown. I did tonight, then scanned it again and no codes came up but it's saying that a few modules changed from OK to Inc (inconclusive?). They are: Catalyst Mon Evap System Mon Oxygen Sys Mon EGR/VVT Sys Mon Any ideas? |
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When it won't start, are the sparkplugs gas fouled? On that engine it can be one of the signs that the timing chain has jumped time a couple teeth. Not enough to bend any valves but it will keep the engine from starting and it's enough that it won't fire.
It's possible to check the cam timing without tearing down the engine if you know what you're doing. Replacing the chain is not simple. |
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So could it be clogged injectors or malfunctioning pressure regulator(s)? Quoted:
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Your measured fuel pressure will not cause a 98 Altima not to start. Just because it has fuel pressure doesn't mean it is actually getting fuel injected. So could it be clogged injectors or malfunctioning pressure regulator(s)? Highly unlikely that all 4 injectors clogged at the same time. And the pressure regulator is on the return side of the fuel rail. Stuck open or closed it will not prevent fuel getting to the injectors. You can check the injector circuit operation with an inexpensive "noid light" available at most auto parts stores. It's possible that something happened to cause the fuse for the injectors to blow. They all share the same circuit for battery voltage source. |
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Highly unlikely that all 4 injectors clogged at the same time. And the pressure regulator is on the return side of the fuel rail. Stuck open or closed it will not prevent fuel getting to the injectors. You can check the injector circuit operation with an inexpensive "noid light" available at most auto parts stores. It's possible that something happened to cause the fuse for the injectors to blow. They all share the same circuit for battery voltage source. Quoted:
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So could it be clogged injectors or malfunctioning pressure regulator(s)? Highly unlikely that all 4 injectors clogged at the same time. And the pressure regulator is on the return side of the fuel rail. Stuck open or closed it will not prevent fuel getting to the injectors. You can check the injector circuit operation with an inexpensive "noid light" available at most auto parts stores. It's possible that something happened to cause the fuse for the injectors to blow. They all share the same circuit for battery voltage source. The injector fuse is fine. I checked that the first day. I checked pretty much every fuse in the vehicle including under the hood. |
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I already replaced the plugs, distributor and ignition rotor. That didn't help. It has spark. I checked by pulling a plug wire, putting the old plug I change out in it and connecting the plug to the negative battery cable via a jumper cable. My co-worker recommended I use the Erase Codes option even though no codes where shown. I did tonight, then scanned it again and no codes came up but it's saying that a few modules changed from OK to Inc (inconclusive?). They are: Catalyst Mon Evap System Mon Oxygen Sys Mon EGR/VVT Sys Mon Any ideas? Quoted:
Quoted:
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I have diagnosed and replaced several distributors in the past on those. As a Nissan tech I've replaced dozens of distributors. Sometimes they throw a code, often they do not. Frequently once they cool down the engine will start and run for a bit. If it dies and you don't have spark replace the distributor. I already replaced the plugs, distributor and ignition rotor. That didn't help. It has spark. I checked by pulling a plug wire, putting the old plug I change out in it and connecting the plug to the negative battery cable via a jumper cable. My co-worker recommended I use the Erase Codes option even though no codes where shown. I did tonight, then scanned it again and no codes came up but it's saying that a few modules changed from OK to Inc (inconclusive?). They are: Catalyst Mon Evap System Mon Oxygen Sys Mon EGR/VVT Sys Mon Any ideas? The monitors will automatically reset whenever you clear codes on any vehicle using OBD II protocol. They have no bearing on the problem you are experiencing. The first thing that comes to mind concerning your issue is fuel control, not pressure. MAF sensor (if equipped), coolant temp sensor readings should be looked at. I think you could have an issue where the ecm is commanding more fuel than it needs based on inputs it receives from various sensors. |