Posted: 10/9/2013 5:45:32 AM EDT
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Received several P0327 codes on my 02 suburban (L59).
It looks like this is a pain in the ass to change out, and a known issue with water penetration. How long can I wait, or is it a "part until fixed"? I've read that higher octane can help reduce knocking, buying me some time. What about E85? It's higher octane, and the vehicle is rated for it. Any reason not to (other than piss poor gas mileage)? |
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Quoted:
Have you noticed any driveability issues, like a loss of power? Nope. I did a bit more research today, and found that there should be 5v present at the connector. Sensors should read 97-107k ohms. I don't know how soon I'll have a spare minute, but I'll have to check those. Entirely possible the lead(s) are damaged. I did jiggle the wire, and reseat the connector earlier today. Topped off with E-85, and reset the MIL. Have a ~2 hour road trip later today, so if it's going to pop up again, I would imagine it would do it sometime on the trip. |
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Next question: is it ok to drive in the meantime? Only error right now is the P0327, Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input.
Might be able to replace this weekend. Looks like I have to take the whole intake off. I'll need a new set of gaskets,2 knock sensors, and probably the harness while I'm at it. The first time I read the procedure, it looked painful. But it looks less painful the more I read. |
| You will be pleasantly surprised once you tear into it. The GM LS motors are about the simplest automotive engine in history to work on. You can have the intake off in under 20 minutes if you don't mess around. Def replace the harness while you are in there. Also, unless the intake gaskets are damaged, they are reusable. |
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You will be pleasantly surprised once you tear into it. The GM LS motors are about the simplest automotive engine in history to work on. You can have the intake off in under 20 minutes if you don't mess around. Def replace the harness while you are in there. Also, unless the intake gaskets are damaged, they are reusable. Awesome. Sounds like I have a project for this weekend. Anything else in that same area I should replace while the intake is apart? Should I be parking it until it's fixed, or is it safe to drive assuming no hard/fast driving? ETA: One sensor is definitly toast. One reads 98k ohm, the other is in the megaohm range. |
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Awesome. Sounds like I have a project for this weekend. Anything else in that same area I should replace while the intake is apart? Should I be parking it until it's fixed, or is it safe to drive assuming no hard/fast driving? ETA: One sensor is definitly toast. One reads 98k ohm, the other is in the megaohm range. Quoted:
Quoted:
You will be pleasantly surprised once you tear into it. The GM LS motors are about the simplest automotive engine in history to work on. You can have the intake off in under 20 minutes if you don't mess around. Def replace the harness while you are in there. Also, unless the intake gaskets are damaged, they are reusable. Awesome. Sounds like I have a project for this weekend. Anything else in that same area I should replace while the intake is apart? Should I be parking it until it's fixed, or is it safe to drive assuming no hard/fast driving? ETA: One sensor is definitly toast. One reads 98k ohm, the other is in the megaohm range. The sensors detect knock and cause the ECM to pull timing. If your sensors get a false signal and the ECM retards timing unnecessarily, your motor will be down a bit on power and mileage may suffer as well. It will not cause damage though. Not really much else to be concerned about in there. |
| I had to change the intake gaskets on my 03 5.3, the knock sensor was right there. There was alot of crud that had to be carefully scraped and vacuumed up while plugging the head intakes with paper towels and using solvent to prep the heads for reassembly, that was the worst part. R&R with the cleanup took about 3 hours, once you can get to it the sensor will only be a few minutes. |
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I have also heard of people putting a bead of RTV silicon gasket maker around the perimeter of the knock sensor hole to make a sort of dam to prevent any water from getting in the hole. Not sure if it does any good, but it can't hurt I guess. Yep...that's the plan. http://www.autorepairinstructions.com/?tag=02-06-04-023a Going to be next weekend before I can fix it. No one in state seems to have the harness in stock, and while I have it ripped apart, I want to do both sensors, gaskets, and the harness. I can order online, but won't be here till monday or later. |
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Ok.... so...
I have the harness, two new sensors that both test good. New gasket (metallic, not the plastic). RTV. But I'm seeing some places say I have to replace the intake manifold bolts. It was mentioned that they use some sort of crush gasket, and need to be replaced each time. Yet, when I look up parts online, it appears to just use regular bolts. Thoughts? |
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I didn't replace the bolts, before you put it back together I would check the intake runner gasket surface with a straightedge or level deck, the plastic manifolds are prone to warping. Of course use new gaskets, mine were mashed pretty flat and tore up, probably from ethanol.
ETA: my gaskets were the plastic type, with molded in O rings, this would be a crush type gasket I guess. Mine were Fel-Pro. |
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I didn't replace the bolts, before you put it back together I would check the intake runner gasket surface with a straightedge or level deck, the plastic manifolds are prone to warping. Of course use new gaskets, mine were mashed pretty flat and tore up, probably from ethanol. ETA: my gaskets were the plastic type, with molded in O rings, this would be a crush type gasket I guess. Mine were Fel-Pro. They had two fel-pro kits. One was the plastic with molded O ring, the other was metal with some sort of rubberized seal. Also came with EGR gaskets. I've heard plenty of complaints about the plastic, so I paid the extra for metal. ETA: Here is the plastic one Here's the one I got. |
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Don't use the metal gasket.
After I got everything apart, I found out that the metal gasket requires removal of head bolts to secure it in place. Not sure that I want to do that. ETA: My upper half was so caked, that I could not tell that the metal gasket hangs OVER the bolts. I had to flush out the recess pretty well, then was finally able to get it to fit. All in all, took me about 4 hours. I'm not a car guy, but I can follow instructions. Took a little bit of manuvering. I think that was the hardest part. |