Posted: 1/14/2012 1:09:29 PM EDT
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Instead of buying something i think i want to build . One problem is ive never done it before . I want to do this for under 10 K
I found these rolling chassis From demons Demons Rolling Chassis Found these V engines on ebay . EVO ENGINES I will have the Frame , Gas tank , Fenders powder coated which will cost under 500 Dollars I will buy a cheap exhaust and use header wrap and chrome tips . My questions are following : What other parts would i need ? Do these V twin engines have 1 or 2 carbs ? What do i use as a ignition control and electrical ? How do these bikes charge the battery ? |
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Do not buy a demons roller, they are trash, Im also in Rhode Island Ive built a ton of them im me, Ill put you on the right path, I have a 300mm rear tire chopper 90% done on my lift rite now, lol... She going to be my bar hopper for this summer....
heres some pics , from when I had it marked up, its now painted and reeassembled, but the motor isnt back in yet... I had aci custom cycles paint it matte black, with a flat black frame, and white lettering.. 
as for your questions, by you asking these, shows me you will have many more.... What other parts would i need ? You need an engine {I recomend Ultima 100 inch, frame, front end, wheels and tires, brakes {calipers mounts discs and lines}, hand controls, foot controls, a seat, a battery, some wire, a headlight, taillight, blinker,s plate bracket, transmission {this will depend on which frame you choose and how many speeds you want but there cheep} a primary system {open or closed}, gas tank, fenders, oil tank, handlbars, mirrors, drive belt or chain depending on what you want, exhaust, ignition key system, paint, oil, tranny oil, shift linkage, and Im sure Im forgetting somthing... Thats just off the top of my head... Do these V twin engines have 1 or 2 carbs ? 1 carb on a Evolution twin engine {they sell dual setups, but there expensive and dont run well} What do i use as a ignition control and electrical ? the ignition control is in the right side of the engine cover, its a small module, that feeds the coil on the left side of the engine, that goes to each cylinder How do these bikes charge the battery ? under the left side engine cover there is a stator, that spins with the engine and charges the batter, there is a regulator that mounts in the front frame to regulate the voltage.. |
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I like Ultima motors because of there price, and there pretty reliable... The 100" IMO is a really nice motor, there all the same price, you pick the size you want, I believe its from 96-127".... But bigger is in no way better....
So start with the ultima driveline I get a good price on that stuff, that would be an el bruto engine from 100-127" , a speed trans, and a 3" belt drive open primary for around $4400 Next a frame and tins, what are you looking to build, long and low, high and tight? What size tire, skinny mid, chubby fat or steam roller???? I personally like Krafttech, great frames, Ive built 3 of them, not counting the one on the lift rite now.... You can go with a roller, if you do I suggest Malibu motorcycle works in FL, but they are more expensive that way, you can buy everything he gives you for less, and not pay the big shipping tag.... I suggest looking around, there are alot of projects around for short money, because people start and dont finish.... Im thinking you can do it for 10K, If you go all new, your probably going to be on spoke wheels with a lot of natural aluminum finish, not much chrome {chrome can be had cheap, but then you end up with flaking trail behind you.... So Im thinking if you go with something like this for low and streched with a 240-250mm rear tire http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHOPPER-250-TIRE-HARDTAIL-RIGID-ROLLING-CHASSIS-HARLEY-/120841992537?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c22be7959#ht_1406wt_821 or something with rear suspension shorter more comfy and ridable.. http://www.ebay.com/dsc/i.html?_nkw=krafttech+frame&_sacat=0&_odkw=krafttech+roller&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=1 So with the driveline and a roller your already around $7000, now you got 3000 for tins $400, Hand and foot controls $500, Brakes $500, Lights and mirrors $300, seat $100, exhaust $300, then belt, lines, electrical $500, thats around $2600 and you didnt paint it yet.... So its not impossible... A little shopping around and very little room for error... Where in RI are you? |
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I like Ultima motors because of there price, and there pretty reliable... The 100" IMO is a really nice motor, there all the same price, you pick the size you want, I believe its from 96-127".... But bigger is in no way better.... So start with the ultima driveline I get a good price on that stuff, that would be an el bruto engine from 100-127" , a speed trans, and a 3" belt drive open primary for around $4400 Next a frame and tins, what are you looking to build, long and low, high and tight? What size tire, skinny mid, chubby fat or steam roller???? I personally like Krafttech, great frames, Ive built 3 of them, not counting the one on the lift rite now.... You can go with a roller, if you do I suggest Malibu motorcycle works in FL, but they are more expensive that way, you can buy everything he gives you for less, and not pay the big shipping tag.... I suggest looking around, there are alot of projects around for short money, because people start and dont finish.... Im thinking you can do it for 10K, If you go all new, your probably going to be on spoke wheels with a lot of natural aluminum finish, not much chrome {chrome can be had cheap, but then you end up with flaking trail behind you.... Only thing i want chrome is the engine transmission and the front end . There is a Ultima Rigid frame on craigslist now what do you think of those ? |
| Powder coating is fine for the frame AFTER you've mocked up the entire bike and made sure you have all of your tabs/brackets welded where they need to be, but it's definitely not ideal for tanks and fenders. New gas/oil tanks, fenders, and related sheet metal are NEVER straight or smooth enough to just slap a coat of paint/powder coat on without using some sort of filler, which is generally a big no-no when powder coating. There are powder coat-compatible fillers, but you'll need to talk to your coater to see what they recommend. |
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... http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af107/turbobike1/ebayy001.jpg http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af107/turbobike1/ebayy003.jpg ... I'm not a huge chopper fan but I like that. It looks like it can actually be ridden. Granted, it wouldn't be a bike for 500+ mile days, but it looks like a very nice daily rider. I'd like to see the final pictures with it painted matte black. |
Ive never been a fan of anything but a croch rocket . I have a r6 / ninja 1000 / an older gixer . It wasnt untill a couple days ago when a buddy bought a Bobber for me to fix that ive ever rode anything else . I was riding this thing around town having a blast . Its a slightly raked out , very loud , cool looking bike . Now i want a chopper or a harley .
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My brother owns Bare Knuckle Choppers. They offer rollers in different stages. They can also custom make a frame package to about any specs you want. They have won numerous awards at the AMD World Championships, Easyriders, Daytona etc. etc, and have been on the covers of Easyriders, Hot Bike, Cycle Source, The Horse Backstreet Choppers and others.
Here is the link to the rollers. Here are some of the bikes he has built: 
Plus he is a gun guy and a conservative 
Give him a ring and I'm sure he can get you on your way. |
I don't know how much you are looking to spend or if you would consider one that is already built, but I know of a few very nice bikes for sale. They have been featured in a few magazines as well.   I couldn't find any of the completed pictures of this one, but here is what it looked like right before it was done.     |
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I think the hardest part is knowing which parts are compatible It's not about finding parts that are compatible, it's about buying the parts you like and making them all work together. With proper application of the blue wrench and the BFH, any part will fit anywhere. |
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Go visit clubchopper.com, lots of good info on this site.
If you really want to build a ground up make sure you are very aware of your states licensing laws and required equipment as you will need to go through a state patrol inspection at the end to get the bike titled. Good luck |
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My brother owns Bare Knuckle Choppers. They offer rollers in different stages. They can also custom make a frame package to about any specs you want. They have won numerous awards at the AMD World Championships, Easyriders, Daytona etc. etc, and have been on the covers of Easyriders, Hot Bike, Cycle Source, The Horse Backstreet Choppers and others. Here is the link to the rollers. Here are some of the bikes he has built: http://bareknucklechoppers.com/completes/killyourself/1.jpg http://bareknucklechoppers.com/completes/killyourself/9.jpg http://bareknucklechoppers.com/completes/haymaker/haymaker5.jpg http://bareknucklechoppers.com/completes/haymaker/haymaker11.jpg http://bareknucklechoppers.com/completes/helena/helena1.jpg http://bareknucklechoppers.com/completes/helena/helena5.jpg http://bareknucklechoppers.com/images/dc1.jpg Plus he is a gun guy and a conservative
Give him a ring and I'm sure he can get you on your way. Since no one else has mentioned it, I have one question about those bikes. Which stops faster, one of those bikes or a fully loaded 18 wheeler? Or is it a tie? 
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My brother owns Bare Knuckle Choppers. They offer rollers in different stages. They can also custom make a frame package to about any specs you want. They have won numerous awards at the AMD World Championships, Easyriders, Daytona etc. etc, and have been on the covers of Easyriders, Hot Bike, Cycle Source, The Horse Backstreet Choppers and others. Here is the link to the rollers. Here are some of the bikes he has built: http://bareknucklechoppers.com/completes/killyourself/1.jpg http://bareknucklechoppers.com/completes/killyourself/9.jpg http://bareknucklechoppers.com/completes/haymaker/haymaker5.jpg http://bareknucklechoppers.com/completes/haymaker/haymaker11.jpg http://bareknucklechoppers.com/completes/helena/helena1.jpg http://bareknucklechoppers.com/completes/helena/helena5.jpg http://bareknucklechoppers.com/images/dc1.jpg Plus he is a gun guy and a conservative
Give him a ring and I'm sure he can get you on your way. Since no one else has mentioned it, I have one question about those bikes. Which stops faster, one of those bikes or a fully loaded 18 wheeler? Or is it a tie?
Yeah no front brake isn't my thing but these are just some of the show bikes I posted. He pretty much makes everything in house and I was trying to show the craftsmanship.
Here are some pics of the 1949FL panhead that my brother built for my dad. And it handles and performs better than most bikes I've ridden. Also almost every part was built specifically for the bike, including the gas tank which was made from a piece of aluminum sheet and there is no body putty or filler anywhere. 
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Hey man, i owned a shop (Y Chrome) building choppers for a few years, did 10 of them. even with my dealership pricing, the cheapest one i built still cost me about $14K in parts for a rigid 250.
here's a few things to keep in mind: -be careful about pricing out the main 12 items and getting sticker shock when all the accessories add up. -be real careful about cheap components. one customer insisted on cheap forward controls, which fell apart on me going down I95 and forced me to shift by hand at the linkage. i had to use two tattoo -needles at the shop and a pair of pliers to get home. buy once, don't replace, don't die from crap parts. a couple grand more to get the decent stuff is money well spent, especially on brakes, etc. -i used several ultimas as well. decent engine and price, US-made, not that korean revtec crap. if you want cheap, just buy the HD 80" evo, inexpensive and very solid engine. if you want bigger, go -big enough to get the compression releases. i had two 96" ones, big enough to need CR, but didn't have them, weren't good starters. -the 127" ones go like hell, but don't go with too big of a pipe diameter or it suffocates the engine on those. -spoked rims are cheapest, though i prefer billet, powder coat is pretty inexpensive, flat black paint is cheap and easy -make sure you check your rake/trail on your front end so it handles decent -overall, you can build a bike w/o all the metal work i used to do on them, but don't fool yourself into thinking it's just nuts and bolts either. [/*] -make sure you check your local info so you can a) register it and b) insure it. see if you have to have things like blinkers, horn, etc. if you want, email me at [email protected] and i can send you an excel file that helps you go through identifying the basic properties of the bike you want. i also have a full BOM for some of the bikes i could provide that show back at that time what my cost in parts would've been to build some different types. I'll send you all that information and you can run with it if you want. I still have some of the dealerships, and i could put together a BOM and order the whole works for you too if you're interested. However, if you insist on cheap parts that are below my threshold for quality, you'll have to buy them elsewhere as i won't sell them. Feel free to hit me up if you want those references, i don't think i can attach those excel files on this post...can i? |
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Having built several from wrecks and from riders needing ca$h, it was far easier and cheaper to go buy one off the showroom and strip it.
Sure, NOTHING can alter the fact when you pop the kick stand over and look back, the pride in your soul that it was nothing till the blood out of your body pressed carbons together for a tru Work of Art. That said, as you even noted yourself, it will be your first build.... but really I find it unrealistic you can keep it under $10K UNLESS you find a used machine, or get a donor , and add hand built parts. You forgot to include electrical, starting systems (kicker? = cheaper), brakes, wheels / tires / bearings, and front end in the build BTW. Welding, painting, and electrical is EASY for a project unless you have NO Access to tools and No Knowledge on what needs to be done to pull it off. As Paul Senior was trying to figure out electrical systems, Jesse was playing with his dick, and Alren Ness (learn alot from him) just opened his shop in Oakland, when I finished my first build. If I had patent several hand-builts I did, instead of having my head in a bottle, I'd be a MIllionaire by the last century! Much Luck! |
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I think the hardest part is knowing which parts are compatible Do NOT think that way. You will find once you are in the thick of it, nothing is compatible. I've built 2 and could count on 1 hand how many parts just "bolted right on" as advertised. All B.S. aside, this ^^^^ bears repeating. A 4.5" grinder with a cut-off wheel and flap disk, and a decent mig welder will be your best friends during the build. Unless you buy a "bike-in-a-box", you need to go into it assuming nothing will bolt up, and be prepared to fabricate every single mounting bracket and tab. |