Posted: 8/30/2011 9:27:57 AM EDT
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So I need new shocks for my 05 GMC Sierra Z/71. Id like to have the best for ride comfort cause I don't do much offroading.
So my questions are.... Which brand should I look at? How easy are they to install myself? Will I need any special tools? (I have jack stands, a floor jack, and standard mechanic tools) Any other info is welcome. Thank you Cody |
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I recommend Bilstein shocks. You can get them at www.truckshocks.com.
Installing mine on my Ford Ranger was a pain in the ass, because the nuts/bolts on the original shocks were rusted in place. Took lots of Liquid Wrench, a breaker bar, and some skin and blood. Lots of people like Rancho shocks too. Not sure about the configuration on your truck. All I needed were deep well sockets in 15mm, 18mm and 19mm, a 6-inch socket extension, rubber mallet, etc. |
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HD Bilsteins They are a good monotube design with a high pressure charge. I've yet to find a twin-tube that I liked, I've always had OEM shocks fail within 1-3 years of easy driving. The compression damping is a bit too high and the rebound compression is also a bit too high IMHO, but it works out well. If I had to do anything to the Bilsteins is to reduce the compression and rebound damping so it rides a bit softer and tracks the road a bit better. |
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I just put a set of Rancho shocks on my F series pickemup This is the second pair, it's been 50,000 miles. As far a s special tools, my Ford uses 18 mm wrenches. With the nuts as rusted as they were, a sawzall and some 6" "torch" metal cutting blades came in handy.
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Will I need any special tools? (I have jack stands, a floor jack, and standard mechanic tools) Impact gun will make your life much easier, but not required. Take a week and hose down the nuts and bolts down everyday with Kroil or something like it. |
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Quoted: Bilsteins. Do NOT use "HD" rated one's, your HWY ride will suffer. If you do not need "HD" shocks, the regular one's are cheaper and will give you a smoother ride. I use HD Bilsteins on my cars and the highway ride is like gliding on a cloud as long as the road surface is smooth. Otherwise it feels like any other "sporty" car. |
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Special tools you will need (based on me installing Bilsteins on my Crown Vic in 2001 and on the GT in 2011): A metric hex wrench for the top stud on the Bilsteins, I forget the size A 17mm wrench for the top nylok nut - or 17mm socket with an impact ratchet/wrench. Blue threadlocker for the lower bolt I find that if you have room, it's easier to use a gear wrench (ratcheting box ended wrench) while holding the stud with the allen/hex wrench. Otherwise if you don't hold the stud/shaft, it will keep turning with the nylok nut. An impact wrench will overcome that though. |
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Will I need any special tools? (I have jack stands, a floor jack, and standard mechanic tools) Impact gun will make your life much easier, but not required. Take a week and hose down the nuts and bolts down everyday with Kroil or something like it. I prefer Kroil as well, but PBblaster will work too. Other than that, no special tools needed. I'll echo the sentiments for Bilstein shocks. Hard to go wrong with them. |
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Bilstein.
On your year of truck, the installation is VERY easy. I can take some picture to show you, if you want. The weight is held by the torsion bar; heck, if the shocks were worn enough I could replace them without even removing weight from the suspension. If you need pictures, I would be happy to run outside and snap a few for you, so you know what you're going to need to do. |
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Actually, it's so simple, I snapped some pictures anyway. My truck is lifted, but yours is the exact same setup, so nothing will be different (except less clearance, of course)
Use some PB Blaster to loosen the nuts. It is a 19mm (3/4") top and bottom, with the back big bolt being a 7/8", iirc. Loosen the bottom nut. 
Loosen and remove nut on the top of the shock tower. 
Lift on your frame, either here: 
...or here; if lifting from the crossmember, I recommend putting a 2x4 between it, since it's not a super-flat surface, and it could rock off: 
The suspension will droop, allowing you to compress it enough to pull the old shock out. Remove lower nut completely. Reverse the process to install. |
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Quoted:
Actually, it's so simple, I snapped some pictures anyway. My truck is lifted, but yours is the exact same setup, so nothing will be different (except less clearance, of course) Use some PB Blaster to loosen the nuts. It is a 19mm (3/4") top and bottom, with the back big bolt being a 7/8", iirc. Loosen the bottom nut. http://cmkore.com/images/share/shocks-1.jpg Loosen and remove nut on the top of the shock tower. http://cmkore.com/images/share/shocks-2.jpg Lift on your frame, either here: http://cmkore.com/images/share/shocks-4.jpg ...or here; if lifting from the crossmember, I recommend putting a 2x4 between it, since it's not a super-flat surface, and it could rock off: http://cmkore.com/images/share/shocks-5.jpg Thank you very much. This will be a lot of help. The suspension will droop, allowing you to compress it enough to pull the old shock out. Remove lower nut completely. Reverse the process to install. |