Posted: 1/16/2011 6:57:29 AM EDT
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Quoted:
sounds like a logical place to start. I recently had the drivers side wheel bearing crap the bed on my 08 Sierra 4x4. it made a grinding sound like metal on metal from worn brake pads.. Don't tell me they still have not figured out to make the wheel bearings last? |
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Quoted: Normal if the tires had good grip and were turning at different speeds. The front end build up stresses and it tends to release in pops and snapping noises. Check the CV boots, if they are good, it's likely there isn't anything wrong. Mine will bind in those conditions but it's never "popped" before. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Normal if the tires had good grip and were turning at different speeds. The front end build up stresses and it tends to release in pops and snapping noises. Check the CV boots, if they are good, it's likely there isn't anything wrong. Mine will bind in those conditions but it's never "popped" before. It'll pop if you turn very sharply, and when it binds, you continue on. Those stresses go somewhere and when they release, they pop, crack and snap as everything untwists or jumps back into correct alignment. |
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the reason it was popping and binding was that it was on the pavement and that sets up all kinds of binding due to all the tires getting great traction. my 97 does the same thing in the sand at the beach no issues at all. normal operation .
4WD While operating 4WD vehicles in the 2HI mode, they should perform similarly to an equivalent 2WD version of the vehicle. However there are still additional components on the vehicles and there may still be some slight differences in characteristics. Some Part-Time 4WD transfer cases may make a slight gear rattle type of noise when operated in 2HI at low engine speeds, similar to a manual transmission gear rattle type of noise. This can originate in the synchronizer assembly from engine harmonics. This noise will usually be reduced or eliminated while driving in a 4WD mode because the synchronizer assembly clearances will be taken up once engaged in 4WD. Operating the engine at a slightly higher rpm should reduce this noise. While a vehicle is traveling down the road, the tires rotate a certain number of times per mile depending on the true tire radius. If all the tires do not have the exact same true radius (due to load, tire pressure, wear, build variances...), they will turn at slightly different rates. Also, unless the vehicle is traveling in a perfectly straight line, the front and rear axles are traveling in a slightly different arc, which means the front and rear axles are traveling at slightly different average speeds. These systems either do not have a center differential or it has been bypassed (when used in 4HI or 4LO in Part-Time or Automatic systems, or 4HI Lock or 4LO Lock on Full-time 4WD), so the front and the rear propeller shafts will turn at the same speed, which leads to the front, and rear axles rotating at the same average speed. Using the 4WD modes (4HI, 4LO, 4HI Lock, 4LO Lock) will usually increase noise in the axles, transfer case and the rest of the driveline and is usually greater at higher speeds and will usually increase the more the vehicle is turned. As the vehicle turns, the front and rear axles follow a different arc. When this occurs, the only place to compensate for this binding is between the contact patch of the tires and the ground. This can feel like the vehicle is vibrating, crow hopping or grabbing. Even if the vehicle is driven in a straight line, there are slight differences in tire circumference that will cause some driveline binding. If a vehicle had the exact same size tires and was driven in a perfectly straight line, the fact that more parts are moving would mean that there would be more noise and possibly some feel of the system operating. Use of 4HI or 4LO and 4HI Lock or 4LO Lock on Full-time 4WD is intended for use on a low traction surface such as snow, ice, mud or sand. On a low traction surface, the differences in front and rear axle speeds will not have as much effect on binding because of the lower traction levels between the surface and the contact patch of the tires. On a high traction surface, the higher traction levels will create more binding and noise in the driveline. As a result, a small amount of noise or feel of the system operating can be expected when using 4HI or 4LO in Part-Time or Automatic systems, or 4HI Lock or 4LO Lock on Full-time 4WD. The noise and feel can vary depending on the transfer case type, GVW ratings (generally the higher the GVW the more noise it will make), vehicle build variations, gear ratios in the axles, axle type, tires, and importantly driving conditions. While the transfer case is in Neutral, with the engine running, some noise can be expected. When transfer case is shifted to 4LO (or any time through or from neutral, for example from 2HI to 4LO or back) with the engine running, or with the vehicle moving, some grinding noise can be expected. In some vehicles you may experience a slight bump as the shift to 4LO is completed. This occurs because the 4LO range is not synchronized and there may be a difference in transfer case input shaft and output shaft speeds, especially if the vehicle is moving or equipped with an automatic transmission (residual torque from the transmission may be driving the transfer case input shaft). To minimize this noise the shift may be completed at a stop and in an engine off, key on mode. However, there may be an increased chance of having a blocked shift (some models must have the engine restarted to complete the shift). Noise and bump levels will vary between vehicles and even between shifts on the same vehicle. As a reminder, if attempting to determine if noise or bump experienced in one vehicle is a characteristic, be sure to compare to similar make vehicles. For example the shift to 4LO in a Colorado or Canyon will usually have more noise and/or bump feel than in a Silverado or Sierra. When driving in 4LO, the extra gear reduction will make additional noise compared to driving in 4HI. The automatic transmission shift characteristics will also feel different while operating in 4LO. |
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Quoted: I'll have to try it..or not. Quoted: Quoted: Normal if the tires had good grip and were turning at different speeds. The front end build up stresses and it tends to release in pops and snapping noises. Check the CV boots, if they are good, it's likely there isn't anything wrong. Mine will bind in those conditions but it's never "popped" before. It'll pop if you turn very sharply, and when it binds, you continue on. Those stresses go somewhere and when they release, they pop, crack and snap as everything untwists or jumps back into correct alignment. My 08 is my first 4x4 with the independent front end. My last 3 had solid front axles. |

My 08 is my first 4x4 with the independent front end. My last 3 had solid front axles.