Film Developing & Scanning - Page 1

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Film Developing & Scanning

Posted: 9/2/2017 6:21:43 PM EDT

spurred by Jacketch in this thread https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Medium-Format-Cameras-/121-2024441/

I am setting out on developing my own film

starting out with B&W, and will go from there

ordering me a Paterson daylight tank to start,

not sure about what chemicals I'm going to go with. heard good things about both the Kodak and Ilford.
and they usually recommend going with the chemicals for your brand of film.

right now, I'm using Ultrafine Extreme 100 & 400, because it was cheap per roll
It's got good reviews and a lot of speculation as to its actual mfg.

Next I'll try some Ilford HP5+ and Fomapan Action 400 (seems you need to buy 10+ rolls to get a good price from what I'm seeing)

I'm also shopping around for a film scanner, if anyone has any input on those.
the Epson series seem to be popular.

anyway, I'd like to use this thread for everything Film... hook an ARFCOM brother (or sister) up

Posted: 9/2/2017 10:45:11 PM EDT

[#1]

Q: Developer. What I've seen recommended quite a bit for newbies, such as myself, is D-76 (Kodak) or ID-11 (Ilford).
both come in powder. packages of each to make a gallon or liter. The ID-10 can be had for a heckofalot cheaper at
the 'makes 5 liters' size. Can you mix just one gal/liter or do you have to use the entire contents once opened?

Posted: 9/3/2017 6:25:53 AM EDT

[#2]

get the Kodak HC110 developer and the ilford rapid fixer liquid concentrates. you can make one shot mixes instead of gallon/liter mixes.
That is what I do.

for HC110 Solution B - The working solution from concentrate for dilution B is 1 part HC110 concentrate + 31 parts water to make the total volume you need to process your film. 16 ounce tank = 473ml; 473/32=14.78ml. 8 oz tank = 237ml;
237/32= 7.4ml. (or 15ml for 16oz tank and 30ml for the 32oz tank)

for the fixer - 8 oz of fixer + 24 oz water if you are using a 32oz tank.

Stop bath can be water, or stop bath.
get some photoflo by Kodak for the wash after. one cap full of photoflo for the 32oz tank is plenty (more than enough), you don't have to mix that into gallon mixes.

you will also need syringe, I use a baby medicine syringe, it goes to 10ml.

developing times vary by film. Tmax/Tri-X is 68f for 6min. I get good results with HP5+ at 68f/6min also.
Can't wait to see your results!!

Posted: 9/3/2017 6:30:42 AM EDT

[#3]

forgot to add
get the "darkroom timer" app for your phone and you an set up the whole cycle and it will notify you when to agitate, pour, dump, etc

mine is set up as:
pre soak for 60 sec
develop for 6 min
stop for 30 sec
fix for 6 min
wash for 10 min
photoflo for 30 sec

Posted: 9/4/2017 1:54:10 AM EDT

[#4]

I've got 3 rolls of Ultrafine Extreme 100
Massive Dev sez to use HC-110 Dilution H and F for the other rolls I've got to shoot next. (UE 400)

the other stuff HP5+ and Fomopan 400 do have a B dilution formula.

what are your views on re-using developer or fixer?

I'm trying to figure out do I get the big bottle or medium ?

Posted: 9/4/2017 6:14:14 AM EDT

[#5]

I do not re-use, since I mix as a one shot, it gets dumped.
you could re-use the fixer a few times though.

Posted: 9/4/2017 4:04:39 PM EDT

[#6]

well the question behind the xtreme 100 is moot.. just dropped off 3 rolls for D&P... I was just giving my M645 a shakedown cruise.

by the time that all comes back, I'll be ready to develop my own.

Posted: 9/10/2017 11:47:52 PM EDT

[#7]

well, I got my film back, but not the chemicals..
now I also need to shoot some film...

I ordered the following:

Kodak DH-110
Kodak Foto Flo
Ilford Stopbath
Ilford Rapidfix
Patterson System 4 universal (35/110) tank
some graduated cyl.
empty bottles
stirrers

I've already set up a spreadsheet to keep track of the times and mixes required for each chemical,
just need to iron out the agitation and flip parts/sequence.

Posted: 9/29/2017 3:10:10 PM EDT

[#8]

I'm going to develop my first roll today or this weekend.

eta; and if that works okay, I've got about 6 rolls to do.

and on a related note...
I got a scanner yesterday, a CanoScan 9000F MkII, paid $80.
then I bought VueScan Pro software (works on linux, which I have (also mac and pc)) and successfully got it working, fairly easily.
This combination seems to be very popular over the very limited capabilities of the Canon Software.

Posted: 9/29/2017 3:37:19 PM EDT

[#9]

Quote History

Quoted:
...then I bought VueScan Pro software (works on linux, which I have (also mac and pc)) and successfully got it working, fairly easily.
This combination seems to be very popular over the very limited capabilities of the Canon Software.

View Quote

I've had VueScan for many years now. It works well, and they are constantly updating it. It's been a good investment, for me.

Posted: 9/29/2017 3:57:26 PM EDT

[#10]

I've been using his VuePrint app since the 90's.. still have it on my work computer. a fairly decent viewer.
I didn't hesitate to get VueScan, based upon the reviews and my/his/our history going back as far as it does.

Posted: 9/29/2017 6:12:43 PM EDT

[#11]

I ran one roll...

only "Mistake" was tossing the stop bath I planned on keeping.

film is hanging to dry, looks good, from what I can tell... I see things!

Posted: 9/29/2017 9:56:08 PM EDT

[#12]

Quote History

Quoted:

I've had VueScan for many years now. It works well, and they are constantly updating it. It's been a good investment, for me.

View Quote

how do you scan your negatives?

I have been scanning one strip to a .tif file,
then I can take it into Gimp and do one at a time, I'm thinking this will save time over individually selecting frames.. but what do I know?

Posted: 9/29/2017 10:07:17 PM EDT

[#13]

Quote History

Quoted:

how do you scan your negatives?

I have been scanning one strip to a .tif file,
then I can take it into Gimp and do one at a time, I'm thinking this will save time over individually selecting frames.. but what do I know?

View Quote

I don't, anymore. And I haven't shot film in a long time.

Back in the film days (maybe 12 or 15 years ago), I had a Canon negative/slide scanner. But it broke, so I threw it in the dumpster. Now, all I have is an old Epson flatbed scanner, that I use for various tasks. I did recently use it to scan a bunch of old prints from my days in the Navy. My squadron had an impromptu, mini-reunion a few months ago, and a few of us posted our old pictures on-line.

Posted: 9/29/2017 10:10:10 PM EDT

[#14]

I'm still waiting on the film negative digitizing attachment for the D850, when it finally arrives one of these weeks I'll shoot you a note. Send me a few strips and I'll send you back the negatives and the files. From the hype, it will convert negatives into positives at the full 45.7 megapixels in RAW and JPG.

My kid is doing a B&W photography and darkroom class at his high school, so I ordered it. I also have tons of old Kodachrome slides I want to try it on too, and shoeboxes full of old color negatives I've been saving for I don't know why. Hopefully it will be an easy way to get the good ones into the computer at high res.

Posted: 9/29/2017 10:14:20 PM EDT

[#15]

Quote History

Quoted:
I'm still waiting on the film negative digitizing attachment for the D850, when it finally arrives one of these weeks I'll shoot you a note. Send me a few strips and I'll send you back the negatives and the files. From the hype, it will convert negatives into positives at the full 45.7 megapixels in RAW and JPG.

My kid is doing a B&W photography and darkroom class at his high school, so I ordered it. I also have tons of old Kodachrome slides I want to try it on too, and shoeboxes full of old color negatives I've been saving for I don't know why. Hopefully it will be an easy way to get the good ones into the computer at high res.

View Quote

What lens do you have to use it with?