Posted: 3/4/2017 8:23:48 PM EDT
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I was wondering, do you use them?
I have seen a lot of options, so I was wondering your take on them and what scenarios do you use them. ETA: Can they be used as a replaceable way to keep the lense glass clean and scratch free like cheap insurance? |
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Quoted:
I was wondering, do you use them? I have seen a lot of options, so I was wondering your take on them and what scenarios do you use them. ETA: Can they be used as a replaceable way to keep the lense glass clean and scratch free like cheap insurance? In before the mod rage.  Zack and I have gone in circles on this one. 
It's really a hit and miss thing. If the conditions are bad enough to need it, yes they are useful. (Or in my case, I'm overly paranoid about my lenses) That said, the glass is very very durable and a tiny scratch won't really make any issues. On the other hand, in some conditions a screw in filter can save your lens. But if you are taking photos in blowing sand, you might have other issues as well. They do tend to add extra internal reflections to images at night btw. Depending on the filter, some can be very useful though. Everyone should have a CP and a set of ND filters IMO. Personally I think a screw in CP and then a conkin style (square drop in) set of ND filters is best, that way you can use graduated ND and color ND filters without dicking around too much. Conkin sets are kind of expensive though. |
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I'm not a big filter guy, but they can be useful at times. Sometimes I used a warming filter (81A) back during the film days. On rare occasion I might break out a polarizing filter. Aways wanted to try a graduated neutral density filter, but never quite seem to get around to it. That might be something I need to look in to.
Lots of people use a clear filter for lens protection. The higher quality filters probably wouldn't cause any image quality issues. I never have used them however, and so far haven't damaged any lenses. But there is still plenty of time left. 
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polarizing filters are one of the more common filters.
ND filters and graduated ND filters can be useful as well. I am working on modifying a dark welding lens to fit a 100mm filter holder for this summers solar eclipse. (or finding a dark enough ND filter to make it work.) |
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polarizing filters are one of the more common filters. ND filters and graduated ND filters can be useful as well. I am working on modifying a dark welding lens to fit a 100mm filter holder for this summers solar eclipse. (or finding a dark enough ND filter to make it work.) A 100mm ND10 will cost an arm, leg, and kidney IMO. We didn't even stock past 77mm in filters because they were so pricey. That said, I think a #10 glass is about a 13 stop ND filter and a #15 is about 20 stops worth of light. Since you are aiming at the sun, I'd try both and wing it. Can't imagine it is too hard to get a couple square inch chunk of welding glass of Amazon or something. They had 4x4" a #10 a while back for $12 or so. Just remember that welding glass has a heavy green tint to it, so you'll need to fix in post. |
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Quoted:
I was wondering, do you use them? I have seen a lot of options, so I was wondering your take on them and what scenarios do you use them. ETA: Can they be used as a replaceable way to keep the lense glass clean and scratch free like cheap insurance? Ask that question in a room full of photographers, sit back and see what happens.
I do not put "protective filters" on any of my lenses. I have a couple Tiffen? clear 77mm filters if I'm shooting in really dusty sandy crappy conditions. That hasn't happened yet. Up here 40mph sideways rain is the main problem. I use CPL filters in the appropriate conditions. I used to use ND filters until my ND filters got crushed in a move. At some point they'll get replaced. |
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A 100mm ND10 will cost an arm, leg, and kidney IMO. We didn't even stock past 77mm in filters because they were so pricey. That said, I think a #10 glass is about a 13 stop ND filter and a #15 is about 20 stops worth of light. Since you are aiming at the sun, I'd try both and wing it. Can't imagine it is too hard to get a couple square inch chunk of welding glass of Amazon or something. They had 4x4" a #10 a while back for $12 or so. Just remember that welding glass has a heavy green tint to it, so you'll need to fix in post. I played around with it a while ago, might do it again the week or so before the eclipse. I have a box if welding lenses shades 3-12, both glass and plastic, in green, gold, blue, and red (i like blue the best for welding). I am semi concerned about the optical quality of the glass though. I have a weld supply store down the road I might check out and see if they have a grey tint (I assume cameras auto correct for gray/black. still fairly new to the technology side of photography) |
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Quoted:
I was wondering, do you use them? I have seen a lot of options, so I was wondering your take on them and what scenarios do you use them. ETA: Can they be used as a replaceable way to keep the lens glass clean and scratch free like cheap insurance? Filters that actually affect your photography are very useful: polarizers, neutral density, gradient neutral density, colored, etc. "Protection" filters are a religious argument. The key question there is, protection from what? Most people do not need any "protection" filters. What they need to do use the lens hood for their lens, which will provide 99% of the protection 99% of the people need plus improve the images. Back when I shot film, all my lenses had UV or skylight filters. These filters actually did something photographically for the film, plus provided minor protection to the lenses since none of my lenses had hoods. Now I shoot digital. All the sensors have a built-in UV filter. All my lenses have hoods. I don't use any "protection" filters unless I am in a hazardous environment, which has yet to happen. I do have some "protective" UV filters for just such an emergency. Unfortunately, they are all cheap enough that I can tell the difference between images shot with and without these cheap UV filters. |
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I tend to take a lot of photos near water, so a polarizer is definitely worth having. Can really make a blown out mediocre photo in to something outstanding, and it's also one filter that is very very hard to replicate in post. It's not hard to fake a polarizer in the sky. Water is a different story entirely. That said, I just don't shoot that sort of thing much. I used to keep polarizers for every lens but seriously never used em. Regarding the UV as protection - the front element of your lens is a lot tougher than that UV filter is. Tony Northrup, Steve Perry, and others have done some testing not only on how much damage a front element can take before you notice it in your images, but also how much abuse the UV filters can handle (a lot less, actually) and also what they do to your image quality. In short, nothing you add to the lens will ever improve image quality, at best, you're hoping for a no change result, but usually you suffer a loss in one way or another. Also, the UV filter will fail long before the lens will, and often times the internal components will be damaged before the front element shows any signs, so the UV filter wouldn't have helped anyway. For me, no UV filter. I use lens hoods on the lenses that have them, and my 105mm has a recessed front element and didn't come with a hood, so it's beat up as fuck but still the glass is in good shape. |
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I used to be a die-hard fan of UV "protective" filters. Then I started reading up on things and realized the front element is tougher than the filter, a hood will protect (usually) as good or better than a filter, and the filter was probably affecting image quality.
Now none of my lenses have filters, and I have a whole pile of them in the closet. Effect filters (of which I have none) are useful, protective filters are snake oil. |
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I use a B+W Circular Polarizer , especially around water / glass
I also use Schneider rectangular graduated ND in Lee holder . I prefer physical grad ND vs lightroom / photoshop since its WYSISYG . Easier to once I get filter in position I want I can do HDR bracket . Trying to do in post seems bit laborious As far as filter used as protection , that has been debated to death on forums Most of my lenses don't have filter . Having said that, I do have B+W MRC Nano clear on couple of my lenses Typically my travel lens ( Nikon 24-120 F4 and 16-35 F4 ) . Reason is camera gets pulled in and out of bag non stop , and seldom has lens cap . Most often cleaned with t shirt I'm wearing or napkin when sight seeing . The MRC Nanos are very easy to clean This is the main reason I run clear filter on travel lens ...I can clean the spilled wine and beer off haphazardly I don't go on photography holidays, I go on holiday and take pictures once and a while . Not worried about any loss of sharpness etc that clear filter may introduce Constantly tossed in back of car all day long. I have on 3 occasions broken the clear filter. Weird thing was on two occasions didn't even realize when it broke Would the impact have even damaged the lens if I didn't have filter ....perhaps not . You can also argue that the shards of glass could have caused more damage than it prevented Sure lens hood offer protection but my Maxpedition Versa Pack that I use for vacation camera bag only fits camera if hood reversed . Also, not one of those people who always leaves on hood even when its not needed Bottom line , if you want piece of mind that you would rather scratch up filter than lens then just do it . I think more lenses are scratched with poor cleaning |
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Thank you for all the answers. I will be spending a lot of my time around water so a CP filter seems like a wise investment.
To the cleaning fight, I have a few different lense brushes, some spray cleaner, and the same paper they use on microscopes for cleaning. If I don't have that with me I always have zeiss lense wipes and one of those small towels that are made for scope glass. |
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Thank you for all the answers. I will be spending a lot of my time around water so a CP filter seems like a wise investment. To the cleaning fight, I have a few different lense brushes, some spray cleaner, and the same paper they use on microscopes for cleaning. If I don't have that with me I always have zeiss lense wipes and one of those small towels that are made for scope glass. A lens pen should do 99% of your cleaning. The big thing is to remember that the carbon end traps crud, so they have a shelf life. That way you don't accidentally scratch your lenses. Lens paper works okay, but I like to avoid it. Leaves a ton of fuzzies IMO. |
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For me, I always use a clear filter in front. IF I ever scratch it, I can just toss it, I would really cry is I had to repair a $800 lense. Many times if you have to repair something, you might as well buy a new one.
For most of my photo requirements, not that critical I take photos where the extra lens surface can't be seen. Now if you are shooting test pattern, I would take the filter off. I also use a polarizer when shooting outdoors, it seems to give me a new dimension in my photos. |