The top rail on my CTR is slightly separated from the receiver in the very front.  Will this cause me any issues when mounting a scope and using the gun?  Any reason to replace?

https://s26.postimg.org/533veyo5l/20170924_075908.jpg



The rest of the rail appears nice and snug.

is that a bolt on or a casted on rail? i wouldn't like it ether way.


as for messing with mounting the scope if the front rig mount is over the lifted area i would thing the mount would move all the time messing with zero.

Bolted on, the lifted area is in front of the first bolt.

Looks like somebody wrenched down the mirage bolt in the front of the rail

Usually, on a rail (base) there will be 2 screws in the front and 2 screws in the back.  IDEALLY, if you tighten only the front or rear pair with no screws in the other 2 holes, there should be (almost) no gap between the top of the receiver and the bottom of the rail.  If there IS any appreciable gap then you should probably consider bedding the rail.  The gap pictured is grand canyon scale in my limited experience.

What I would do is remove the rail completely and closely inspect and clean up the rail, the screws, and the receiver and then trial fit the rail with just the front pair of screws snugged (NO rear screws) and look at the back of the rail for a gap.  Then reverse the process with only the rear screws used/snugged (NO front screws) and look at the front of the rail for a gap.  If you can't see a gap, tap (firmly) on the end that could have gapped and listen for a "click" of metal contact.  If you can's see a gap but hear a click, there is a small gap - look closer with a light/bright background...    As I said, if you have any appreciable gap (> or = 0.010") on either end, you should consider bedding the rail.  If you have never done rail bedding, there is no shortage of YouTube videos on the subject...  watch a few and then try it, it isn't difficult.

Also note:  When you are snugging either the front pair or the rear pair of screws, BOTH screws should snug down individually securely holding the rail.  On the off chance that one of the screws is TOO LONG, it won't tighten down correctly.  This also needs to be fixed by either getting a shorter screw or shortening the screw you have.  This "long screw" problem happened to me when I was mounting a rail on my R700.

I think so too.  That very front bolt isn't threaded into the receiver to hold the rail on, it is there for a mirage strap.  Because it is threaded in the rail and not in the receiver, if it were tightened it could bend the rail upwards.

Try backing that very front screw off a bit or removing it.  That may fix the bend.  If it doesn't you might need to replace the rail as it's been bent irreversibly.

Yeah, that's what I think happened.  I removed the front bolt and the bend is still present, so it looks like a new rail is in order.

Thanks for the info guys!!!  

Now would be the time to put on a canted rail if you were so inclined.

I really wish Tikka had put a 20 MOA canted rail on at the factory.

Do you have a recommendation on a new rail?

Mine has similar gap, not as noticeable. Attached File

This. I've been searching for a steel Tikka 20 MOA rail and I have really only found that Warne produces one (of non-custom options).

As to the lift, I would've guessed it was the mirage bolt being torqued down and in, but I can clearly see light under it. Not sure, but I wouldn't want it on my own rail, as t could be a sign or stress where it is anchored.

I don't have any experience with canted rails for the T3.  I went the expensive route and kept the factory rail on mine, and used a Spuhr 20 MOA one piece mount for the scope.

This website has both aluminum and steel options that are canted.  They even machine in the Tikka opti-lock stud on their rails, which is a nice touch.

Just ordered one, thanks for the link.

Is this commom on ctr's?  I'm close to buying one.

For anyone wondering:

The front screw is not supposed to be tightened down like the rest, just turned in until it touches. I believe its for a mirage band, it's fine to leave it out unless you need it.


OP, mine did the same thing at one point, I just bent it back and you could never tell otherwise.