Posted: 1/15/2016 3:44:16 AM EDT
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I don't have a few thousand, or even a thousand to spend even on some glass, and so after doing an exhaustive search and talking to SWFA, this is what I ordered. Kind of confused though, as I'm going to use this for 168 FGMM initially until my supply is exhausted, then reload all the cases for SMK 175. What's confusing is all the information out there that seem's conflicting to me so far.
Reading mildot.com, I'm seeing this which look's to be the norm: 
Same for this with leading: 
But then while reading I see this and get confused: 
Is the first two for 168 SMK and the second needs to be re-zeroed at the top for 175 SMK? Please explain this to me like I'm a child, I'm a bit confused by that if my deduction is way off here. As for the rifle it's being mounted to, it's this: 
If that scope ring one piece from Aero is a no-go, then I have no issue using the ADM one here, which is 30mm also and mounted to my AR15 precision build: 
Correct me here please. |
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You're reading this wrong. I'll splain'...
The first image with the 2 dudes and the tire, that's an example of quick ranging using objects of ASSUMED size. In reality this is great for military purposes but not so much for most civilian purposes. The formulae they present are also needlessly complicated. It's much easier to do something like: 6ft = 2yrds so ((size in yards) * 1000 ) / (mils) = range which would be in this case 2*1000/5 = 400yrds. This also works if you do everything in meters (range and target size). The following is just like the above 5.5ft = 1.8yrds so 1.8*1000/4 = 450 Those are rules of thumb based on 2 specific heights. If the guy is 5'9" instead of 5'5" then your range will be off. If the 6' target is actually 6'3" you'll be off too. Not useful for non-military/police. The second image with the lead, that's based on a single ballistic calculation and is an example of how you might lead, not how much. The third image is showing how to use a mil-dot reticle as a sort of ad hoc BDC reticle by adjusting the part of the reticle that you use as your zero. You could actually zero at the top thick bar on the reticle at 100yrds (easier than a 500yrd zero done at 500yrds) and then use that system but, again it's just a rule of thumb. As air density changes so will the ranges associated with each position on the reticle. This is a great way for a military sniper to not have to fuddle with his dials while engaging man size targets from conversational distances out to approaching the far side of its effective range. Learn the formula for mil-rad ranging. Learn how big things in your AO are, then practice doing the math. Pro-Tip: bring a pocket calculator. The math is always harder behind the rifle without one. If you're trying to learn how to use a mil-rad reticle for ranging you're doing it right for a civilian. We'll typically know the target dimensions so we can get pretty tight with the range estimation. The second thing you should understand is range estimation is NOT range determination. Those are 2 very different things. Estimations can have quite a bit of slop. Determination does not. While a Army sniper might be able to use the crude BDC functionality of such a reticle he's not trying to hit a specific part of the target in that case but instead just trying to put a bullet into the target and convert the target to a non-combatant. Civilian shooters will generally demand more precision while military shooters will need simply to take someone out of the fight other than themselves and do it fast. Police snipers are a whole different story and use case. If you're trying to use a mil-rad reticle for a BDC as a civilian, you're using one possible feature of the reticle but not using it for what it's meant for. At short ranges, up to about 500m you can get away with using it as a BDC, I sometimes do. At longer ranges I'd really just get your dope dialed in the turrets. You'll probably have the time. If you're trying to get out of re-zeroing your rifle, you're SOL. Change loads, confirm zero. That's how it works. You can characterize your zeros though so you'll know the setting difference between your 168 load and your 175 load (at say 100yrds) and then when you switch between them, dial the difference and re-slip your turrets back to zero. Done. |