Tag for future refrence. If anyine knws how to to the reversion to the earlier version of programming SW let me know sine the only one I have is an M7100 and as far as I know it was hit with the later version RPM.... I would be interested in sending the radio out for "re-education"

I have ine of the M7100's and one of the Orion D2HHG7 models Which was billed as 136-174 but I think is actually 150-170. I THINK they can both be programed with programmer 17 but havens taken a swing at either yet  I get mixed messages about the 7100 being able to be done with that SW or not.
I get some references to the radio having to be powered to program or not also there dosent seem to be one compendium of knowledge on these.

The M7100 it would try to read then tell me "wrong radio type" and quit. The orion it read fine and I was able to put a 2m simplex personality into the radio no problem and it hasnt had any issues so far with lock errors or anything like that I will probably open it up an check the vco voltage's just to make sure its not high or low on TX or RX and balanced.
Where does the speaker plug into or connect up to on these I cant see any obvious connection.
And while the TX light comes on it does not appear to actually transmit  BUT  I am using the control head and cable from the M7100 so......

ITS ALIVE!!! -----ALIVE!!
The M7100 is up and running got a personality in 'er that works. The control head dosent seem to function all that well but that may be the head itself or a programming issue --buttons not setup etc but ...BUT she transmits and receives and opens repeaters. So If i can get the speaker working she'll be good to go. Antenna shopping time for the van.
this guy here has some great programming hints and kinks

http://longview.be/ericsson-orion-various-notes.html

The 50 AMP Jetstream power supply I ordered came in this week.
I hope to get some bench time in to get a few GE radios programmed this weekend.

Figured out pins 18 and 19 on the control head DB25  connector are audio output to the speaker. Bastardized an old printer cable to hook up the speaker and have 110w simplex comms on the roof j-pole. Nice, a sub $50, 100+ watt vhf radio. Between that and the Kenwood TK-690 Ihave 110 watts on 6m vhf and uhf from the top of the Laurel Highlands (3300ft) looking west. Gonna fit them in the new van tomorow and see what I can work form Laurel summit on 6m and 2m simplex. The uhf box will have to wait a little while

Instead of buying another power supply why not just add another PS in parallel?  DC is DC

Unless they have a paralleling circuit  they will not load share equally.

Its no problem --working ok now thanks to your help. I was just looking for the right connection for the speaker--that cable I did not get. I found a couple cables with db25 males but none had pins 18-19 wired. bastardized a serial db9-db25 and resoldered the wires to make an ad-hoc adapter till UPS arrives monday. In the process of finding that I went thru 20 years of electronicjunk I have managed to accumulate ----and not ONE parallel printer cable in the bunch. SO I started throwing crap in the dump truck just to start making room --wont get much for it at the scrap yard but who cares. I have about 20 hard drives of various vintage to scan and destroy --- one hopefully contains all my world trade center 9/11 site survey (post attack) and recovery photos.--amongst other things but alot of it is just dusty crap. Basically I got sidetracked cleaning up the basement.


On a side note I found my old CF-18 toughbook which contains alot of Moto SW/CPS for Astro/spectra/mototurbo/Saber/XTS radios--so theres that AND it still works running XP among a few other old laptops that still work might have to ebay those since people are looking for computers that can still program this stuff.

After losing a fuel bowl retainer part on my 1952 Massey tractor this morning while getting it ready for winter snow plowing,
I all the sudden found myself with some time on my hands today.

I had success so far with an M7100 136 - 174 Mhz MA-Com radio Model number MAHG-SHHXX, 110W.
I used Radio Personality Manager version 10B07 (Thanks Keith1980!)

So far I have been able to program, transmit and receive on 2 simplex channels 146.52000 and 146.55000.

I started off with the 2m capable M7100 that was the radio only, with a cover plate instead of a control head meant for mounting
in the trunk with remote mounted head. This was about $50 for the headless radio and a power cable and nothing else.

Next, I bought a brand new in the box 800Mhz M7100 model that had control head attached, and all the cables, mounting brackets, speaker etc all for $29 brand new plus shipping.
The cable I think is called the accessory cable, it has the speaker connector, ignition sense, what I am assuming to be the PA feed, a DB 9 and another larger connector.

800 Mhz radio used to canabalize all the good new parts:



Next I took the cover plate off the 2m radio, and put the control head off the 800 Mhz radio onto it.
There was a ribbon cable as part of the control head to hook up.
I hooked it up to my new Jetstream 50 AMP power supply and NOTHING!
Next I hooked up the yellow ignition sense wire to the + terminal on the power supply and BOOM, lights.
I read from the radio, saved this default configuration to my laptop then programmed the 2 simplex channels, wrote it to the radio.

So far so good, TEST Channel 2m 146.52000:



I also have no earthly idea about programming all the other buttons on the radio.

Ok next task is to get all the 2m simplex channels and area repeaters programmed in!

One other note, when you back up the tracking and feature data with the maintenance tool,
it puts the backups in C:\Users\Public\Documents\RadPersMgr

EDIT: I found a microscopic switch under the top cover and shield that disables the ignition sense.

I got all my repeaters programmed, I have about 3 nets tomorrow night and will use this radio.

thats the nice thing you can grab another radio thats 800 mhz or out of a useful band for peanuts and have al the parts/brackets/cables you need to complete the good radio and get a door stop at no extra cost. I have seen a few that were essentially NIB but useless for ham use. Too bad they wanted too much due to the pristine condition.

Is it not a DB37?  Nevermind, you are probably using the remote head with the DB25 accessory connector?

With the non-remote head I have the big complicated accessory cable just to hook up the speaker:


I need to do what you are doing to just connect the speaker,
I will need the DB37 since I have the non-remote head:

I think I have some DB25 connectors if someone needs one put together.

Just had my first few QSOs tonight with the M7100, 5x9 and full quieting into the repeater.
Also good in reverse. This radio will come in handy for the next ARES simplex exercise in my area.

The microphone is a brick and  the radio is a cinderblock!  

I just used a DB25 male and its pins 18 and 19 for audio output off the 25 pin accessory plug on the back of the control head.
I finally got a "systems" control head and all the buttons worked fine --surprising because it must have come from a "Mandatory Smoking" unit where coca-cola was misted thru the AC and heat blower 24/7 the gunk on this thing was .....there is no word. Anyhow I gave up a few pair of my precious nitrile gloves for the cause and took the head apart ---actually breaks down to components pretty easy--just take it easy on the ribbon cable connectors. I had all the boards and components out in about 5 mins and soaked the buttons and large plastic pieces in hot soapy water which quickly turned brown (eech!) but after a second bath and rinse a third bath and gentle brushing it actually looks very good the stripe on the power knob is visible again and the gunk is gone -display and backlit of the buttons is much much better. Have to source some new keycaps though. The gunk did a good job of protecting the factory finish ironically.
the accessory cables are out there but they seem elusive and pricey. Theirs some NOS ones but they want more than an entire radio sometimes.
The Mics
The mics are very heavy --largely due to the alloy weight that takes up most of the back of the cavity. The shell is pretty heavy duty compared to civvy or ham two way mics but the circuit board and wire conductors is par for the course the wire gauge is t-h-i-n very thin --hard to strip and re solder if a conductor breaks which the outer two conductors I have found are prone to do. Mostly the blue wire. These were largely subbed out to Shure and Hecho en Mehico. Thank You NAFTA! so YMMV. The cord is pretty heavy re-enforced rubber and the shell and cord protect the electronics pretty well. Hard to clean without bagging the board and the radio end and dipping in hot soapy water then wiping down with isopropal alcohol. Try to stay away from Windex and ammonia based cleaners ---ammonia is bad for copper and corrosive and unless you get all the residue off it can cause problems later. Most people clean their fridge and microwave with some kind of Windex and I end up charging them to replace the boards after the ammonia eats the board traces.After cleaning the mic shells typically look oxidized --and take on a white cast,probably due to UV,body oils,powdered sugar,coffee,stripper dust,blood,spit etc they have been exposed to over years of service. The plastic--probably ABS has aged so clean at your own risk. Cleaning these good may be a disappointment.  The control head boards are conformal coated so a little alcohol or some water wont really hurt anything if it gets on one but dry everything well and if possible blow them off gently with compressed air --lots of nooks and crannies for stuff to hide in. The back screws are captive. The first board (middle board?) in the front case is held in by tension --it snaps into the front board and is also connected by a ribbon connector but it just floats on grounding spring tabs. The back board is held by the two DB connector nuts and were so tight I worried about stripping or breaking them so it got left in --its just an interface from the DB connectors to the ribbon cable. If you want to disassemble the front button board you can the two screw nuts on the left then the 10-12 little torx screws on the shield and it comes right out --careful or button caps go everywhere-- and the +- rocker and 1-2 rocker lift out there is a rubber contact membrane that actually does the switching clean the crap off the front but dont be very aggressive on the back and contactors and make sure you line it and the board back up when you reinstall. The re-assembly is reverse of removal. The volume and channel pots come out by taking off nuts on the shafts you need to take the set screw out of the plastic knobs that go under the soft knobs that just pull off (they each have an alignment slot) That allows the front casing to be fully stripped of electronics and cleaned conventionally. The back I just went over with alcohol since the one board was still in place.
Anyway HTH --sorry I had 3 cups of coffee on the ride back tonite so ......

What functions/buttons do you get with the systems control head vs the scan control head?

instead of the four big buttons on the scan head --one seems to always be what I assume to be an emergency or man down button (orange trangle)
You have 16 smaller buttons and from what I can tell they are soft buttons configurable in SW for any number of uses one of mine is SQL or squelch button which allows you to turn squelch up and down via the 1-2 rocker switch the others were labeled "menu" 'SYS" "opt" "CLR" "home" and so on but a bunch of custom ones that were probaly dept specifc "car" "so25" "sqt" and various numbers It just gives you more options for soft function keys that I can tell and I guess a DTMF keypad?

Not my pic

Just for other's reference, the scan head close up, my rig:

Had some time to spend today programming the radio.
Wanted to be able to do simplex a lot easier and to adjust power levels on the fly.

Im stuck on 110w and when I key up all the TVs in the house go out  
as the 2m antenna and the TV antenna (not going to finance enemy propaganda through cable TV bills) are on the same mast.
Now I can cut power levels on the fly if the old lady is trying to watch TV.

The first thing I did is to create new systems as shown:


Works out to:

Repeaters High Power
Repeaters Low Power
Simplex High Power
Simplex Low Power
NOAA Weather

You set the TX power within each system.

Next you create the frequency sets, this example is the simplex frequency range of 146.400 -146.580 in 5 Khz steps, a total
of 37 frequencies.

Now that I think back, you create the frequency sets, then the systems, adding the frequency set to the system.


Below I am in simplex mode using high power:


So now I use the paddle to the left of the scan button to select simplex or repeater sets and high or low power sets, and the NOAA weather.
If you are in simplex mode, the selector knob below the volume knob now acts more like a conventional tuning knob.
You can have 1000 frequencies per set.

Does anyone have any other programming hints or tricks?

Well crap, in RPM if you go down to Options, Control Unit Keypad Options, then select scan control unit keys,
then you can map the emergency button or the Option button to just about anything including toggling TX power High and Low.

Hang tight, im taking screen shots and writing some instructions.

What you see under menu as far as TX power is read only, as is the version info etc..
You have to assign a key to the TXPOWER function to toggle power.

In Radio Personality Manager,
Under Options, Control Unit Keypad Options, program the keys like you want them
See I changed the Emergency key to now toggle TX Power

Now you have to save the keypad file using the save keypad file button. Then click OK.

Now when you hit Program in the menu to write to the radio...
Click the button that says mobile options...


And this window will pop up:

I have a scan keypad, but if you have the system keypad (the one with lots of keys) , check write system keypad file.
Next load the file back up you created and saved in options earlier, by clicking on
Load Saved Keypad data.

Now click ok to program the radio and set the keypad options.


So basically the keypad options have a separate file to keep track of.

I have my Emergency key has the TX power setting and the Options key as squelch.
I have the scan control head:

I'm really itching to map my Menu Key to "Public Address" so I can tell the idiots going slow in the left lane to get the hell out of the way!!

Can you post a screenshot?
We are using the same version of RPM Correct?
Or are you using Programmer?

Are you using the highlighted option?

OK I see.

I have Programmer and a Dxxxxx model radio, maybe I can mess with it over the weekend

I can do everything on Programmer right now but program since I don't have a proper radio hooked up.

When you click, Radio, then Program in the menu,

Are there any buttons or options in the Program window, right before you click to write to the radio?
Mobile options, anything?

M7100 2m High Power reading about 130 Watts




"Low Power" reading 60 Watts  

OK, here is the deal. With the DXXXXX Model Orion radios, it seems you cannot map TXPOWER to the keypad.
I can map SQUELCH all day long to EMER or OPTION1 keys but not TXPOWER.
I clicked on mobile options, then clicked on my keypad type and keys map no problem.
The solution is to create high power and low power systems on the Orion and just toggle between them,
like I showed before but did not really need to do on the newer M7100.

Today, Im using a D2HHXX 110W 150-174 MHz radio I remapped 6 MHz lower to 144-168 MHz with an SC4 file.
I used programmer at first and it told me my revision was not high enough.
I went to the Orion Groups.io found some firmware and instructions and I was able to regress the radio
back to Programmer 17 I had nothing to lose and it worked!!

The other radio I have, 2m MACOM Model 7100 can map the TXPOWER function to a key.

{sigh}
Guess I'll have to buy a few of these now......

once you start.....

I've been getting a lot of signal reports saying, for at least the M7100 MAHG-SHHXX (136-174Mhz) that it is crisp, clean, clear, and no background noise whatsoever!

As for the 2m converted GE Orion VHF (150-174Mhz) D2HHCX Radio, Amazon is bringing me a DB25 (it has the remote head) today so I can make a speaker cable and start getting on the air with it this week. One thing I learned about the conversion, you have to use the Programmer software, not RPM. RPM cant use sc4 files (used to shift frequency range of radio) that I can tell.
Conversion process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5V4A2CfN0pc

For 2m, I recommend the newer Harris Macom M7100 MAHG-SHHXX (136-174Mhz) as it is already in the 2m band.

Oh, I'm aware.
I used to own the old Maratrac's......

You do it at the system level MAX for maximum and 1 for minimum.





You create conventional Channel sets like in your picture, then you create the systems,
then assign the channel sets to systems here:

I'm working with Programmer 17 again tonight.

Another hint, In keypad options uncheck Hookswitch disable scan or scan wont work.
Check Ramp Wrap, that way the left paddle will wrap values instead of stopping at the end or beginning
of the "systems" you are scrolling through.