Posted: 3/14/2016 10:05:59 AM EDT
|
So i'm learning the code.... slowly. I think I could probably copy 5wpm at this point.
1. I don't have a key. Looks like I need one. Should I start with a straight key? If so do I go for something like an MFJ cheapie? Or spend a few bucks and get a nicer one like a Bencher RJ1? Or..? 2. Or should I just skip the straight key altogether and get some paddles and learn to send with those? I know folks like the SKCC really push to learn the manual keys. Is that a good idea to do first? Or should I skip right to paddles? What would you do? Is this akin to learning to drive a manual transmission first? Or is it just something that's not needed. 3. I have a 7200. How do you do side tone? It looks like a real pain to have to go 2 levels deep into the menu to select "no break in" match the side tone, then go back in and switch to Semi or full break in to communicate. I'm guessing a switch hooked into the accessory port is the common way to make a side tone easily? What do you use? Foot switch, hand switch? Thanks....looking forward to making my first CW contact....QRS QRS!! 
|
|
When I was about 10 (1967), my father suggested I learn CW using the straight key. But I was hard headed and didn't want anything to do with it. I started learning on a paddle, but didn't keep up with it and let it all slip away.
Fast forward 45 years. I finally got my amateur radio license and started learning CW again. Learned on a paddle again. Used it to earn DXCC and WAS on CW. Then, about 1 1/2 years ago, I got a straight key, and started learning how to use it. Since then, I've been participating in the SKCC sprints. I still use the paddle to chase DX. I think using the straight key has helped my CW ability. I like and use both. So, I say get both. For a nice straight key that doesn't cost too much, I would suggest a Speed-X (I also suggest getting the Navy knob). They have been around for years, and have withstood the test of time. As for a paddle, there are lots of options, but I like the "buy once, cry once" theory. Stick with Begali, N3ZN (what I have), or perhaps some other high end paddles, and you will be fine. If you can, try them out at a ham fest, to see which one you like best. |
|
BLUF: Paddle. I suppose it depends on your goal. If the goal is to learn a skill, with the primary enjoyment derived from learning the skill, and not necessarily producing something via that skill, then go straight key. It is harder to use. It offers you no help and demands regular practice and competence not just with the code as a series of sounds, but also as a mechanical process of sending. Pedagogically, I think there is a real benefit in practicing with a straight key, because it adds a physical element to the learning to reproduce the characters precisely. Further the straight key community is awesome for beginners. Tune your radio to 14.050 or 7.055 and listen to them slow way the heck down for a new operator. That community is deeply interested in CW as a craft and a means of communication. This might be the biggest performance benefit of a straight key, you set the speed internally, not via a menu setting. It makes adapting your speed to others obscenely simple. The paddle on the other hand is purpose built for ease of use. The key, and the keyer in your radio, do as much as they can to help you send correctly. They are also less intensive, in my opinion, to operate. The mechanical effort to operate the paddles is much lower than with a straight key. All of this adds up to ease of communication. Instead of worrying about how many dits a space should be, or the length of dahs relative to dits, you can send away. I chose to go with the paddles for my first key, but have every intention of adding a straight key to the collection soon. The SKCC community is too tempting. As someone who doesn't know R from K, I have found the paddle simplifies the process for me in a helpful way. However, I suspect had I started with a straight key, I would not have progressed slower or faster. Pick one and go. Better to be sending with something then nothing. Straight key suggestions: j-38 or speed-x. Simple, durable, easily found and will last longer than you need them to. Paddle suggestions: Arf suggested the kent double to me, and I think they were right to do so. That said, the lower priced Begali keys are not much more than that, and can be found on eBay and at hamfests if you are patient. |
For a straight key, I recommend the Nye Viking #322-001 (320-001 if you prefer nickle plating). The "Navy Knob" makes sending very comfortable. You can make one by placing a poker chip beneath the conventional knob of any key.
I use a Bencher BY-1 that I picked up used back in the '70s when I switched from my old Vibroplex bug. The old bug's back in the mix now because I prefer hand sent CW. I used to teach CW classes and recommend starting with a straight key to secure your timing and spacing skills, then add in paddles. Others start with paddles. Which ever way works best for you is the way to go. You can download W1AW CW practice files here. Record your sending and compare it with these files to check your timing and spacing.Becoming proficient at CW is like shooting. Practice, practice, practice, and the best practice is getting on the air and working folks. If you don't learn to use a straight key, you'll be missing out on a lot. Since CW is no longer required, many consider it an art form. As far as tuning in CW, it's done by ear. You don't have to match your tone to the sending station's exactly, and when there's a pile up, it's better to be slightly above or below (~ 50 to 100 Hz) the station you're calling. That way you stand out from the crowd. All those stations that are calling him "zero beat" create one continuous tone in his ears. Two CW groups worth looking into are FISTS and SKCC. |
|
I am also a noob but getting better. I am currently using a straight key from Taiwan that cost about 12 bucks. It's mounted on scrap piece of 2x4 because I wanted to make sure I liked this mode before I dropped any more money on a more expensive key. It works and I'm glad I got the straight key as the SKCC events are really fun and they are a good group of operators. The key is a bit stiff and the adjustments aren't really helpful, but I didn't spend that much and now I know what I'm looking for.
I like the straight key as the sending also helps my receiving. I don't know if you would get that from a paddle and keyer as the movement is going to be different. Eventually I might get paddles but for now I think I'll just get better at cw and then move to a sideswiper or more expensive straight key. You aren't going to check your side tone between every qso. Once you're into it you'll have an ear as to the side tone pitch and when it gets close you're close enough. I don't find the menu system all that cumbersome, ( I also have the 7200) and since I mainly do cw hitting and holding the menu button twice side tone is the one that usually comes up. Whatever you get I suggest taking a look, if not joining, the SKCC. http://www.skccgroup.com Lots of resources for a new operator. |
|
started out in 1993
I could never get good rhythm with a straight key rigged up a paddle and had success 
was able to get on the air enough to breeze thru my 2nd CW test (13wpm general & advanced) all these years later, I'd still suck at a straight key go to qrz and QTH classified and look for a used bencher, or better yet, kent paddle. most HF rigs will let you practice CW with the rig set to LBS/USB...you'll hear sidetone without actually transmitting a signal not sure on that icom the other thing you'll need to learn is how to " zero beat" a CW signal in other words, tune to his exact frequency if he's calling CQ, and you wanna answer, you need to " zero beat " to his freq if his filter is narrow, and you're off freq, he won't hear you CW is a bit of a challenge, but once you learn a bit, it's the best way to work DX working DX is easier than having a QSO, becuase it's just a quick & easy exchange if you can send.. your callsign your callsign and 5NN TU ( 599 thank you ) you can work serious DX |
|
OK, FWIW this is Piccolo and I suppose if you look around at everyone on this board it is a pretty safe bet you won''t find anyone on it that is as stubborn, different and difficult as I am when it comes to picking up a skill.
That being said, I start at ROCK BOTTOM and work my way up. My first key was made out of a hack saw blade, followed by the one (seldom used) Clansman key from the PRC 320 kit. The key I use now is a Chinese K-4. It is a bitch to get a rhythm but I have had a couple of DX QSOs say I'm at least readable. When I get good with the straight key I will then wade slowly into something else. I STILL can not read for shit, though. |
|
Quoted:
if you can send.. your callsign your callsign and 5NN TU ( 599 thank you ) you can work serious DX True story here. I just worked Gibraltar (An ATNO, by the way) yesterday on CW. I guess my CW made him curious to go to my QRZ page because he emailed me telling me my code was readable and he wants one of my certificates. 
|
|
In regards to your side tone question -
First and foremost if you can't match them 100% it isn't the end of the world, as long as you are close you can fine tune mid QSO if need be. There are a couple of ways to zero beat without messing around with your radio 1. Use a recording or a tone generator on your smartphone or computer, use a tone of 600 Hz and tune by ear 2. If you have your rig hooked up to your computer and have FLDIGI or a similar program you can center the other station on the 600 Hz line (I can attach a photo of this if you need) just make sure your radio is in CW mode so the offset is correct. |
|
Quoted:
2. If you have your rig hooked up to your computer and have FLDIGI or a similar program you can center the other station on the 600 Hz line (I can attach a photo of this if you need) just make sure your radio is in CW mode so the offset is correct. Could you go ahead and do this? I am trying to get this straight in my head and a visual would be awesome. |
|
Quoted:
working DX is easier than having a QSO, becuase it's just a quick & easy exchange if you can send.. your callsign your callsign and 5NN TU ( 599 thank you ) you can work serious DX Until they start asking you for your grid square or state or God knows what cause they need it. Then you'll be like 
I can only ragchew for maybe 30 minutes and then my brain is mush. |
|
Quoted:
First and foremost if you can't match them 100% it isn't the end of the world, as long as you are close you can fine tune mid QSO if need be. I would argue it isn't even desirable in some cases. I was calling DX stations last week and most were not running split. So there would be what amounted to a continuous tone on his freq when he called CQ as every caller was on that freq. Many were only answering callers just off freq to one side or the other and I found that worked for me as well. |
|
CW Academy recommends starting with a paddle, either single or double (they do not recommend any Iambic modes, discrete movements for every dit and dah).
I've done the beginner class and can tell you that you get what you put into it. So, if you want to learn CW, plan to spend AT LEAST 30 minutes on it every day - some sending, some receiving. And Farnsworth is your friend! |
|
In 93, to talk on 10meters, you had to pass a 5wpm test ( tech-plus license)
I used Gordon west tapes ( now on CDROM ) to learn, and passed My very first QSO was on 10meter SSB, talked to a ham in California. He sent me a QSL card that very same day. I tried to wing-it and pass the 13wpm, I passed the written ( General ) and failed the CW test My Elmers said - " go home and get on the air, call CQ every night and make 1-2 QSO's, you'll pass next time" I bought a beater paddle at the hamfest, rewired it and with my knees trembling, started calling CQ 
I found experienced hams would slow down, and help me along, with great patience. Here's on of my favorite cards.... 
I got on the air every night for about 30 mins when I walked into the test session, the VE said - " You're gonna pass tonight, I heard you on the air, you were going well over 13wpm " I passed the 13WPM test and the ADVANCED, and after a long wait, was issued a new 2x2 call.
|
|
Quoted:
Could you go ahead and do this? I am trying to get this straight in my head and a visual would be awesome. Quoted:
Quoted:
2. If you have your rig hooked up to your computer and have FLDIGI or a similar program you can center the other station on the 600 Hz line (I can attach a photo of this if you need) just make sure your radio is in CW mode so the offset is correct. Could you go ahead and do this? I am trying to get this straight in my head and a visual would be awesome. Sorry it took so long... here you go The RIGCAT frequency reading is correct. The sender was tuned to 7.05025 MHz (and presumably one of us had a slight drift in our reference oscillator) meaning in order for me to "zero beat" him I had to tune to 7.05026 MHz. I have cropped out most of the screen in order to get the file size smaller, but you get the idea. Put your radio in CW mode, center the other station on the 600 Hz tick mark highlighted with the red arrow and you're right there. Also, ignore the "7050.996" frequency in the logbook area, that's just where I had the cursor parked in the passband and is irrelevant here. 
|
|
The 7200 is a fine CW rig. Just set your rig to full break in and use fldigi or the like, as suggested. Usually a medium / 500 filter setting is appropriate.
Get yourself a straight key. Join the SKCC (free). Get on the air as soon as you have the characters down. If you show up on the SKCC "sked page" you'll pretty much have people falling all over themselves to give you a good first CW contact. Chuck, K7QO, just published a code course which you may be helpful. http://www.k7qo.net/k7qo-code-course.html |
|
Quoted:
What is the benefit of using FLDIGI while doing CW? I assume it mostly because it allows you to see the signal. Am I missing something? I can think of several. -in a contest environment, you can have fldigi open and your passband maxed out, and/or split turned on on the rig, and use the waterfall on fldigi to figure out the pattern of the DX station. -I use fldigi in crowded band conditions to give me a visual indication of where the encroaching QRM is (high or low) and I can dial the filtering only as much as needed to try to get rid of it. This does not always result in a copyable signal, but it is helpful in doing it quickly and I find it very effective. Even if the DX station sounds like crap with what is left of his signal...if you can hear him without QRM, then your odds go up. (admittedly, this is more of a SSB issue than CW) -surgical frequency agility...is that a new term? anyway, yes, I can hover the mouse on the frequency dial in fldigi on whatever digit I need to to quickly move to a specific frequency. Or I can use it to move off frequency by 10 or 20 to find a good spot to tune and easily and quickly move back on to the operating frequency. I never even touch the band buttons anymore...switching 20m to 40m takes mere seconds. -and lastly, fldigi does a passable job of decoding CW, assuming you have zero beat the station you want to work and have accurately matched his speed. |