Posted: 4/25/2014 9:31:15 PM EDT
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1. Wire up your paddles with 1/8" plugs then use 1/8 to 1/4 adapters if needed. (I uses the shorter ones).
This makes it easier to move between radios and the 1/8 to 1/4 adapters are smaller than the 1/4 to 1/8. 
2. When using a Moble radio (2 meter etc) as a base radio I cut a board about the same size as the radio and mount the mobile bracket to it; it makes a nice base for the radio to sit on your desk. |
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For new guys:
Don't try to reinvent the wheel. Popular radios and popular antenna designs are usually popular for a reason. That single band QRP kit that you are looking at is certainly inexpensive, but it may prove to be a frustrating experience when you try to get on the air. On the subject of antennas: Some people (both new and old to the hobby) can tend to make antenna choice sound like an overly complicated thing that will mean the end of the world if you make the wrong choice. Stick with a simple tried and true design and get on the air. You can and will make changes to your station later. The following picture sums up this idea nicely... 
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Quoted:
Don't try to reinvent the wheel. Popular radios and popular antenna designs are usually popular for a reason. On the subject of antennas: Stick with a simple tried and true design and get on the air. You can and will make changes to your station later. All well said! I will add, get a tuner. It will make life simpler. I have people tell me, "If you have a resonant antenna, you don't need a tuner." "Tuners have loss." Yes, but you can work more bands and more frequencies within each band with a tuner. Tuners do have loss, but it is minor if you are not trying to tune a really bad situation. There is no antenna that will work all bands, or even most of the popular bands without a tuner. One fan dipole or OCFD and a tuner will serve you as well as 8 or 10 antennas and no tuner. Wouldn't you rather spend more time on the air? The "all in one" or "shack in a box" rigs (HF + VHF + UHF) are not all they are cracked up to be. You are really better off spending the same amount of money on separate HF and VHF (or VHF/UHF) rigs. I was told that going in but had to learn it for myself. Better antenna is more effective than more power (amplifier), but you still may want an amp later for the 160 and 80/75 meter bands at night, which tend to have a high noise floor. If you are like many, work during the day, come home and want to get on some nets in the evening, then you will spend most of your time on 40, and 80/75 meters. An amp can be an aid on these bands. Don't rush into buying an amp. A good 100 w HF rig will certainly serve you well, and there are plenty to choose from, new or used. I will say that Noise Reduction (DSP) has come a long way in the last few years, and lower cost radios produced today may work better than a top-of-the-line rig from years past. Especially at first, listen a lot, operate a little. Stay off the air when there are a lot of contests, at least at first. Just listen. Dip your toe in the water on those days when it is not so frantic on the air. I'm going to suggest two bands for you to start off on. 40 meters - if you only have one antenna, a 40 m dipole or OCFD should be it. This band is active during the day and well into the evening. There are some good nets during the day, and this band tends to be more regional, covering a range of 500-1000 miles or so. If you keep it low, you can get closer in and work your own state. There are some good day time nets, and the operators on this band seem to be good people. 17 meters - a good daytime band, though it quits about an hour or two before dark. But there are no contesters on this "WARC" band. Like 40 meters, they tend to be nice people, and not in a rush to make another 75 contacts in the next hour. They have more time to give a newby some guidance. So, get your feet wet there, 40 and 17 meters. And enjoy ham radio! |
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All good advice above! I'll add,
Buy a bigger power supply than you think you need. eg: equipment draws 20A in TX, buy a 30A unit. Same is true for bench space. I build them as large as the room will allow regardless of how much equip I have on hand. It will fill up rapidly. 
Don't cheap out on coax, especially in the VHF/UHF bands. Fuse both positive and negative leads for DC powered equipment. Coax patch panels > coax switch. |
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Quoted:
The "all in one" or "shack in a box" rigs (HF + VHF + UHF) are not all they are cracked up to be. You are really better off spending the same amount of money on separate HF and VHF (or VHF/UHF) rigs. Quoted:
Quoted: The "all in one" or "shack in a box" rigs (HF + VHF + UHF) are not all they are cracked up to be. You are really better off spending the same amount of money on separate HF and VHF (or VHF/UHF) rigs. For general shack use this is good advice. However there are applications where they work well such as portable (not mobile) or where cost and space can be a factor. If it is your only rig then the all in one for HF and a cheap Baofeng HT to monitor the local 2m/440 repeaters can be useful but are a performance compromise on UHF/VHF and HF. I can hit most of my local repeaters with a 5w HT and the N9TAX Slim Jim. I can monitor local while I play on HF even with a shack in the box. You have to decide for yourself if the compromises are worth the trade off for your particular application. |