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I don't know how much better I can do than 47 cents per watt. If I figure it may need $100 in repairs, I'm still at only 56 cents per watt. Running a 220V outlet (which I'd need to do no matter what) $40 for the breaker, plug, and socket, then probably $60 for the wire, I'm up to $750 or 65 cents per watt.
Show me a legal limit amp that goes for 65cents a watt, shipped. ETA: $100 in repairs meaning new caps in the power supply. |
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Well,
On the breaker box... Depending on the mfg of the box, they make double breakers for 120v lines... Take two low load (preferred) 120v circuits and combine them...do this twice...then you'll have two open spaces... It's fairly easy to move loads around...there is usually plenty of room for extending or rerouting the black line(hot), neutral and ground can stay where they are... I had to do this at my old cabin , before I built a new one... Even a couple of reasons for extended or splices hot wires on electrical panels...my electrical at my new house is all automated...11 high voltage electrical panels...feed from two 320a mains... Bret |
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You've got to love the design and construction of the older amps and the 3-500Z tubes are SEXY!!! Take a close look at your existing circuit breaker box as earlier suggested. Unless it's an older, obscure box, there should be some options to add half height breakers in a couple of spots to ultimately allow you to install a double pole 220v breaker to run to your shack. Good luck and keep us all updated on your progress! |
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Quoted:
You've got to love the design and construction of the older amps and the 3-500Z tubes are SEXY!!! Take a close look at your existing circuit breaker box as earlier suggested. Unless it's an older, obscure box, there should be some options to add half height breakers in a couple of spots to ultimately allow you to install a double pole 220v breaker to run to your shack. Good luck and keep us all updated on your progress! I took a quick look this morning before I left for work... It looks like there's a single breaker that ONLY powers my doorbell and the post lamp in my front yard. So that's one. Just one more to go. |
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Quoted:
Well, it's now running on 240v. $134 later, I have a 20A 240v outlet in my radio room. Good job! How does it do? Have you cranked it up? Find any weak links in the antennas or perhaps devices susceptible to strong RF fields? When I got my first 600W amp I found things around the house that didn't like a lot of RF. |
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Well, I have cranked it up, and I have no issues on 80m even with 100W of drive (max drive I can give it.)
I just need a better wattmeter (this 500W one isn't gonna cut it) and a better tuner. Hopefully I won't melt any coax until I can get some RG213 to replace the rg8x run to the OFCD. |
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Nice!!! Way to adapt and overcome. I'm sure the Swan is happier on 220v than it was on 110v. Now you get to find the weak link(s) in your system. In the end, your shack will be more sound and efficient. It's hard to go wrong with the old boat anchors and your price per watt was very reasonable. |
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Speaking of weak links, my power supply just blew. (Pyramid PS-21KX)
Time to see if Pyramid really has a warranty. :( ETA: http://youtu.be/DZgTvYFlh00 |
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This may help you in tuning, and is applicable to most amps.
http://www.ameritron.com/helpvideos.php Also, SWR/Power meter... Daiwa. Tuners, two come to mind, the Ameritron ATR-15 and the Dentron Super Tuner. In general, the Dentron is cheaper and easier to find. These are older tuners but both are built like tanks. Look on QRZ.com, eHam.com, and QTH.com. Transceiver > Amp > Power Meter > Tuner > Antenna Don't discard your RG-8X. You can use that for Field Day or special event activities. |
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So, I had a friend come over with his 3kW power meter and a 2kW dummy load... It's putting out right at 2kW on sideband on the low end of 40m.
He showed me how to tune it up, and how I should be running it. This is going to be fun. Now I just need to figure out how much to put into it on each band to stay legal. |








and ligel limit