Posted: 5/25/2012 5:27:48 PM EDT
Holy crap that's a lot of parts. |
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If you need any pics or help let me know On the PA board, is R4 really a 2.2 ohm resistor? My bands are kinda hard to read but I was getting 2.16 +/- 1% Thanks for checking. I'll add one of those to the list of parts I need to buy that were missing from the kit. |
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Alright, let me see if I have this straight. You put the component in the correct holes, solder, then snip the leads? Does the soldering tip make contact at the far end of the leads so as to avoid melting the silicon? What silicon? Stick the component through the holes, bend the leads so it stays in place. Heat up the lead and the pad with the soldering iron for a few seconds, then touch the solder to the component (not the soldering iron). Solder will flow and fill the hole. Remove solder feed and then iron. Then snip away the excess lead. Techniques are different for some components (ICs don't need their leads snipped. Big metal connectors take a lot more heat and generally have to be heated in several places before solder will flow, or hit with a heat gun. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Alright, let me see if I have this straight. You put the component in the correct holes, solder, then snip the leads? Does the soldering tip make contact at the far end of the leads so as to avoid melting the silicon? What silicon? The green stuff. Doesn't sound too terribly bad, just very tedious. I guess the right equipment is crucial.
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Alright, let me see if I have this straight. You put the component in the correct holes, solder, then snip the leads? Does the soldering tip make contact at the far end of the leads so as to avoid melting the silicon? What silicon? The green stuff. Doesn't sound too terribly bad, just very tedious. I guess the right equipment is crucial. That's plastic. Circuit boards start out looking like this: 
It's a piece of plastic sandwiched between two layers of copper. The traces are transferred onto the copper in a variety of ways. The simplest way of doing it is with a black sharpie. But you can use special paper and a laser printer and an iron to transfer it onto the copper. Commercially produced boards use photo lithography. Once the pattern is traced onto the board, it is placed in an etchant bath - usually ferric chloride. It eats away all the copper that is still exposed - anything covered in ink will stay copper - and the plastic is exposed. After the chemical bath the ink is scrubbed off and the holes for components are drilled. In professionally made boards the holes have little metal "vias" for the component. Simple circuit boards just have one foil side. The radio I'm building has two-sided boards. Complicated circuits (think computer motherboards) may have 7 or more layers of copper. That manufacturing process is a lot more complicated. |
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Did this thing follow you home from Dayton??? Nice project!! if only my piggy bank wan't empty.... Nope, I bought it online while I was in Afghanistan and I'm just now getting around to putting it together. youkits.com |
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Quoted: I am a transformer and inductor winding BEAST. http://i.imgur.com/azmlc.jpg I think that's enough for tonight. I'm missing at least 3 Mica caps  I'd probably socket all the IC's as well. Makes it much easier if you have to replace them. Then again I am not sure what that might do for specific circuits where lead length could be an issue. Just a thought. |