[ARCHIVED THREAD] - IC-7000 problem... (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 5/30/2010 10:09:56 PM EDT
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Is the display estimated Watts?
If it is you are perhaps showing the proper output as the UHF for IC-7000 is 35 watts +/- and the VHF is 50 watts +/-, specially given the resolution off the small display. An example spec page can be found at http://universal-radio.com/catalog/hamhf/0700spec.html Do you have access to a good meter to measure your output? 73 Steve K9ZW |
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Check the SWR on both of the antennas. I sure want to, but the wattmeter I bought doesn't seem to work right either. I bought a like new AN/URM-120 at Dayton and when I hooked it up it wouldn't read SWR at all, and read very low on every radio I hooked it up to for watts out also. I'm frazzled because I don't know what to believe from any of my equipment.
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Yeah, switch the screen to meter mode where it shows SWR, ALC, etc. I really wish I could, but the IC-7000 only does internal SWR on HF, not VHF or UHF. Quoted:
Is the display estimated Watts? If it is you are perhaps showing the proper output as the UHF for IC-7000 is 35 watts +/- and the VHF is 50 watts +/-, specially given the resolution off the small display. An example spec page can be found at http://universal-radio.com/catalog/hamhf/0700spec.html Do you have access to a good meter to measure your output? 73 Steve K9ZW I wondered that too at first, but if the UHF is reading watts out instead of percentage of output from max, then that would mean that my VHF side is belting out 100 watts when it is only supposed to be 50 watts. I'm kind of lost here without any 100% known good rigs to base stuff off of. My wattmeter seems very screwy, and I don't know anyone around here with another one. I'd hate to have to buy another one already. I was really banking on this Struthers working right. I paid $260.00 bucks for it like new and everyone there (at dayton) said I got a great deal on it. Maybe not so great....
I'm hoping that it is either just me being ignorant and having some setting wrong somewhere or just my antennas being wrong (even that would suck–– I paid $100 bucks for the Comet antenna!). Hopefully someone with an IC-7000 will chime in on what the power meter/bar thingy means.
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Never rely on your radio's internal meter. You have about $1200 invested in your radio, so be wise and buy a swr/watt meter like this. http://www.kedaiscs.com/webshaper/pcm/pictures/accersories/sx600.jpg I still might break down and get another one. It sucks needing two meters to be sure one of them works.LOL Quoted:
Transmitter self-protection from high SWR is the most likely cause. I REALLY hope so!!! I bought this radio used "mint" from another ham on ebay (yeah, I know, but he gave his call and I looked him up on QRZ. He seems legit and communicated well). I need a local Elmer to shake his finger and say "the problem is right there, dummy".LOL |
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The Daiwa CN-801HP power / SWR meter has proven very useful to me, and came highly recommended by other hams:
http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/meters/2140.html |
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The Daiwa CN-801HP power / SWR meter has proven very useful to me, and came highly recommended by other hams: http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/meters/2140.html Unfortunately I'd have to buy two of those just to do what the Struthers is supposed to do. Those meters do HF-VHF, or VHF-UHF. I looked at them when I was at Dayton. I wanted a "rugged one does all rig". I saw that the Bird 43 was going to nickel and dime me to death buying slugs and then while I was up at Dayton I read GarandShooter's post about the AN/URM120A's and thought that would be just the ticket. I walked in and–– Presto! I found the only one I saw there in about 15 minutes of looking. It looks really sweet, now if it works??? I dunno.... I'l post piucs when I get back to a real camera/computer/etc... |
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You might want to invest in a dummy load also. RF Parts makes a DL30A with N-connector or a DL30A with a PL-259 connector. I'm not sure what your Icom has for a VHF/UHF connector, but the dummy load is good to 100 watts intermittent. This would present your radio with a proper load and your watt meter my give you an accurate reading. http://www.hamcity.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=83 |
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Well––- It looks like I'm hosed!!! I guess I should call Icom and send it to them??? Quoted:
You might want to invest in a dummy load also. RF Parts makes a DL30A with N-connector or a DL30A with a PL-259 connector. I'm not sure what your Icom has for a VHF/UHF connector, but the dummy load is good to 100 watts intermittent. This would present your radio with a proper load and your watt meter my give you an accurate reading. http://www.hamcity.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=83 Thank you for the tip Sir. I should have figured that out, but I was so bummed about my new toy that I didn't until you pointed it out for me. At least this takes the antenna and coax out of the loop. ARRGGHHHH!!!!!! I tried the dummy load on the HF side and using LSB and USB on the HF bands it looks like they are putting out ok as far as I can tell. I have no experience with this stuff at all, but I didn't see anything wrong on HF at least. |
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Have you checked the power out in any other mode other than FM on VHF/UHF?
Is the power out on FM VHF/UHF variable or is that just what you are getting at the max setting? ( In other words, can you turn it DOWN)? It's been a couple of years since I owned one, but it may allow you to store the power setting in a Memory Mode channel. Make sure you have the VHF/UHF power at max in VFO mode as a double check. You might also try a "hard reset" back to factory default settings. |
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Yep, I did that right away, but maybe I should try it again.
Have you checked the power out in any other mode other than FM on VHF/UHF? No, I have only tried FM. Should I try USB or something? I don't know if it'll do that (I'm at work right now). I'll look at the manual and try to use some other mode tomorrow. Is the power out on FM VHF/UHF variable or is that just what you are getting at the max setting? ( In other words, can you turn it DOWN)? Yes, it has a variable power setting. I have only tried 100% power level. I never tried to turn it down. It's been a couple of years since I owned one, but it may allow you to store the power setting in a Memory Mode channel. Make sure you have the VHF/UHF power at max in VFO mode as a double check. OK, I'll try that again. I wondered about that possibility too, but I did a hard reset when I installed it and was having the problem right off of the bat in VFO mode before I even figured out how to store a memory. I'll try it again tomorrow though, just to be sure. You might also try a "hard reset" back to factory default settings. P.S.–– Good screen name.
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Quoted: Have you checked the power out in any other mode other than FM on VHF/UHF? Is the power out on FM VHF/UHF variable or is that just what you are getting at the max setting? ( In other words, can you turn it DOWN)? It's been a couple of years since I owned one, but it may allow you to store the power setting in a Memory Mode channel. Make sure you have the VHF/UHF power at max in VFO mode as a double check. You might also try a "hard reset" back to factory default settings. I'd try that several times before I sent it in. Are you positive your power supply and antena tuning are in order? |
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Have you checked the power out in any other mode other than FM on VHF/UHF? Is the power out on FM VHF/UHF variable or is that just what you are getting at the max setting? ( In other words, can you turn it DOWN)? It's been a couple of years since I owned one, but it may allow you to store the power setting in a Memory Mode channel. Make sure you have the VHF/UHF power at max in VFO mode as a double check. You might also try a "hard reset" back to factory default settings. I'd try that several times before I sent it in. Are you positive your power supply and antena tuning are in order? I will try the hard reset again. As for the power and the antenna–– Power: 10 gauge braided hot and ground wires fed directly to the radio from the passenger side battery terminals of my truck's dual battery setup. They still seem to be good batteries–– no start up issues, etc. Grounding: Besides the direct ground from my radio's power plug to my negative battery terminal, I also have installed a 14 gauge braided ground wire from the rear ground lug of my radio's chassis to the cab sheet metal in the floor of my truck. I also installed a 14 gauge braided ground wire from my antenna mount (on the bed's top front rail) to the frame of the truck. I used ring terminals, star washers, and then coated the exterior ones with rubberized undercoating to prevent corrosion. Antenna: The IC-7000 won't give SWR readings on the VHF/UHF side, but I tried two different antennas. One was a Comet (62" CSB-790A 7/8ths wave 2M & three 5/8ths wave 440MHz in phase) using a Jerry Breedlove bedrail mount for pickups, and when I had no joy there I substituted my old magmount antenna (dual band 2M/440MHz of forgotten origin). I put the magmount in the center of the roof and nothing noticeably changed except I got crappier reception. I know the magmount worked at least somewhat, because it was fine with my old Kenwood TM-701A mobile. Still wishing it to be an antenna issue I then tried another piece of coax with my Comet antenna. I checked both pieces of coax for continuity, and both the one with my installed PL-259s and the store bought one worked the same. I then punted and ordered a Diamond DL-30A dummy load to eliminate any possible antenna/coax/swr issues. I still get the same reduced output that is in the pictures I posted up top. SWR: I bought a Struthers "RF Directional Wattmeter", but it reads low no matter what I do. It won't even move on SWR. The Struthers problems may well be totally operator related though, as I have no idea how to accurately use this thing. Hence the reason why I punted and went to a dummy load instead. If I can't figure anything new out soon, I'm going to send this thing in for repair/checkup just to have someone who knows what they are doing certify one component in my train wreck of parts as definitively "NOT" the problem.LOL
The real pisser is I have an SGC SG-230 autotuner and an AT-1011 antenna rig to hook up on the HF side once I ever get the VHF/UHF side sorted out. I thought the VHF/UHF was supposed to be the easy part.LOL!!! |
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Have you checked the power out in any other mode other than FM on VHF/UHF? Is the power out on FM VHF/UHF variable or is that just what you are getting at the max setting? ( In other words, can you turn it DOWN)? It's been a couple of years since I owned one, but it may allow you to store the power setting in a Memory Mode channel. Make sure you have the VHF/UHF power at max in VFO mode as a double check. You might also try a "hard reset" back to factory default settings. I'd try that several times before I sent it in. Are you positive your power supply and antena tuning are in order? I will try the hard reset again. As for the power and the antenna–– Power: 10 gauge braided hot and ground wires fed directly to the radio from the passenger side battery terminals of my truck's dual battery setup. They still seem to be good batteries–– no start up issues, etc. <edited out to save hourglassing> Are you doing this with different scenario's? I.E., truck running, truck idle, highway speed, lights on, wipers running? I've seen radio's (mostly hf) that really are voltage sensetive and will really shove the power back if the voltage drops a half a volt, and some failed to transmit. Might be food for thought. Install a volt meter at your power feed to your radio, or someplace along the line that convenient and put the display near your radio display. When you see this oddity again, check the power supply to it. Compare it to other times you are transmitting. Make sure your doing it and comparing it to similar situations. Going down the highway (don't get in a wreck), idle at a stop light, turned off in your driveway. Just my 2 cents. Do I get change? |
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Have you checked the power out in any other mode other than FM on VHF/UHF? Is the power out on FM VHF/UHF variable or is that just what you are getting at the max setting? ( In other words, can you turn it DOWN)? It's been a couple of years since I owned one, but it may allow you to store the power setting in a Memory Mode channel. Make sure you have the VHF/UHF power at max in VFO mode as a double check. You might also try a "hard reset" back to factory default settings. I'd try that several times before I sent it in. Are you positive your power supply and antena tuning are in order? I will try the hard reset again. As for the power and the antenna–– Power: 10 gauge braided hot and ground wires fed directly to the radio from the passenger side battery terminals of my truck's dual battery setup. They still seem to be good batteries–– no start up issues, etc. <edited out to save hourglassing> Are you doing this with different scenario's? I.E., truck running, truck idle, highway speed, lights on, wipers running? I've seen radio's (mostly hf) that really are voltage sensetive and will really shove the power back if the voltage drops a half a volt, and some failed to transmit. Might be food for thought. Install a volt meter at your power feed to your radio, or someplace along the line that convenient and put the display near your radio display. When you see this oddity again, check the power supply to it. Compare it to other times you are transmitting. Make sure your doing it and comparing it to similar situations. Going down the highway (don't get in a wreck), idle at a stop light, turned off in your driveway. Just my 2 cents. Do I get change? The problem has been consistent from the beginning. It does it going down the road, parked and running, lights on/off, engine on/off, etc. I didn't check the voltage, as I figured it couldn't get any hotter than a 10 gauge feed right off of the terminals, but I have a multimeter and I'll check that tomorrow too. There is one voltage issue, and that is when starting the truck. Diesels draw big amps to turn over, and the voltage drop off of the battreies will cause the radio to shut off sometimes if you leave it on when starting the truck. It restarts itself immediately, but I figured it wouldn't be good for it. From what I've read on the internet, that is a common issue and easily avoidable–– Don't have the radio on when cranking the starter.LOL It works so far. Good call on the voltage I reckon. I can't actually cancel it out if I haven't specifically checked it. |
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You'll like the SuperDuty. If it's a still stock 6.0L, leave it that way. No chips/tuners. HeeHee, hopefully mine doesn't blow up. I've been running a Spartan Phalanx tuner for about a year now. I only run the "Aggressive Street Economy" tune. I don't trust the other tuners, and Spartan wrote my strategy conservatively for my specific sytrategy code and mods. I've had zero issues so far. I've picked up about 140 hp (that I don't really dip into at all!) and about 1.5 mpg. I use to do launches, but I had too much axle wrap and had to replace a u-joint twice. I only putter now that I have gotten used to it. I still miss my 7.3, but this 6.0 has been real good to me so far. IC-7000 Link Thanks, I joined the group (after I figured out how... me-> ) and now I'm awaiting approval.
Link ARRGGHHH!!! The more I read about this, the more I'm thinking I may have bought the wrong radio... Maybe I should have bought a Yaesu instead. Oh well, I probably would have gotten a bum one of those too!
Link Since I have no warranty–– Should I pick this guy instead of Icom??? This radio is also pretty heat sensitive. Double check to see if the fan is running on transmit, however that shouldn't be specific to VHF/UHF. The fan does come on when I transmit, and stays on for a couple seconds after. The onboard temperature gauge never has read hot yet. I haven't hooked up any tuners or anything yet either, so that would eliminate one screwing with the reading. I mounted the radio on it's upside down bracket about one inch above the floorboard. It's under my rear seat to keep it out of the sunlight and it has about two inches of airspace above it and three inches to either side. It seems to get decent airflow from the air conditioning back there too. You can actually feel a decent amount of air going under the seat (to go out the rear cab vents I guess?). I had to remove the steel foldout "package shelf" thingie under the rear seat to put it there, but that left me a good amount of room to place it with air around it and minimal chances of it getting kicked/disturbed. I checked the voltage a while ago with the truck running in park, and it had 13.86 volts going into it on receive. The voltage read screwy on my multimeter when I transmitted (sometimes 15-16 volts???), but I have no idea what that means if anything. It still behaved the same. After "hard resetting" it a couple of times I noticed that it read a little higher going out on the power bar while on VFO at 430MHz. At 444.000 MHz it went back to it's original low self. I'm now pretty sure I'm in over my head with this radioLOL!!!
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Looking at the specs for your radio, it is only supposed to put out 50 watts on 2 meters, and 35 watts on 70 cm. So it looks like your radio is OK on 2 m. Perhaps it is as others have said, high SWR on 70 cm. Well it's kind of confusing what that "power bar" means, and the manual doesn't say squat. It reads in percent (%), so I'm guess on VHF when it says I'm getting 100%–– then that means I'm getting the whole 50 watts. Then on UHF when it says 20-30%, it means I'm getting way less than 35 watts. If it meant that I was getting 20-30 watts instead of 20-30%, then I'd be getting 100 watts on VHF instead of the 100% of 50 watts that it seems to indicate. I worried about the SWR with both antennas, but if that was the case then it should be fine with a dummy load though. Barring operator error with some arcane setting that I can't find in the manual (and which should have been wiped out during the multiple "hard resets"), then it should have worked just fine under the dummy load if it's problem had been previously externally induced by bad swr/coax/etc. Everyone else reading this thread: I figured that someone here would have one of these things??? If so: What does your's say when you transmit on 100% power in the different bands???
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OK....I just got where I could fiddle with mine. It seems that the power output can be set differently for HF, 2 meter, and 440. Each band seems to have it's own power setting. I checked this by setting the power out on HF @ 100%, 2 meter @ 25%, and 440 @ 75%, then cycling through the bands and checking the output. They remained where I had set them. I finally went through them and set each to 100%. The top right knob, (volume knob), press it. Press OTH menu (F1), set the power with the tuning knob. Repeat for each band. I didn't look to see if different emission types in the same band could have their own different power settings. It wouldn't suprise me if they could. Let us know if this helps. |
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OK....I just got where I could fiddle with mine. It seems that the power output can be set differently for HF, 2 meter, and 440. Each band seems to have it's own power setting. I checked this by setting the power out on HF @ 100%, 2 meter @ 25%, and 440 @ 75%, then cycling through the bands and checking the output. They remained where I had set them. I finally went through them and set each to 100%. The top right knob, (volume knob), press it. Press OTH menu (F1), set the power with the tuning knob. Repeat for each band. I didn't look to see if different emission types in the same band could have their own different power settings. It wouldn't suprise me if they could. Let us know if this helps. Well, if I press the top left knob (volume) I get "set mode" menu. Then pushing F1 "QS" I get RF power. This is already defaulted to 100% from the hard reset. Dialing "RF Power" down to 50% nets me about 24% power actually indicated on the power bar when transmitting on 430MHz. Dialing up to 444MHz at 50% power–– Indicates 0% power when transmitting, and then there is a little splash up on the bar to about 10% when I unkey the mike. Turning the power back up to 100% indicates about 28%-30% power on the bar on 444MHz, and about 60% power at 430MHz. From 433MHz on up the indicated % of power out just comes down incrementally until it hits the low of about 28% power. I'd say I'm just hosed, and I'll have to send it in. I'll also check up on the Yahoo group, etc. Thanks for all of the help anyway guys! I gotta get this sucker fixed so I can complete Frankenrig and try to reach you guys on HF. If Big Daddy is busy pinging all over the planet on 5 watts, I gotta at least try to reach him from my mobile shack!LOL Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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I have no idea how I caused this dupli-mess. I was trying to post on my crackberry and it said that "communications could not be established" or some crap like that. The really weird part is that I posted it early this morning––- Not this evening???
Sorry for the thread splatter!!! ![]()
Maybe I should stay away from all electronics at this rate!!! |




) and now I'm awaiting approval.