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Link Posted: 10/30/2021 7:15:05 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 10/30/2021 7:17:37 PM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 10/31/2021 11:41:50 AM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



It's browning out going into dormancy but does it actually look a little thicker than it was?  Or are you just not showing the thin spots?

Have you noticed any change in the lawn itself, or in the ground? One test you can do is pick a few areas, take a throwaway screwdriver, and shove it into the ground. See how easily it goes in. You can either put "Could only get 2" in" or... If it goes all the way in, label the ease from 1 to 10. Write that in your lawn journal with the date.  

After some more treatments, try it again.  Label the ease with which it goes in.  It's an objective way to see how your soil is opening up, or if it IS even changing.   If the screwdriver goes in more easily, so will water and air (major simplification here, but somewhat true).

Maybe you can find a better source for dolomitic lime over the winter.  What a shame that the staff wasn't more helpful.



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it does seem thicker.
Link Posted: 10/31/2021 11:59:22 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Don't know if any of these stores are within reasonable driving distance, but I would expect a wider selection and a more knowledgeable staff at one of them.  Not that I'm a fan of site one. But they do tend to know their business.

Site One Landscape Supply houses in Georgia

ETA:  There are a bunch more in Georgia than those three with the big balloons.  You gotta click the "view all" to see them.

[/qu]

the augusta store is not for from me, I'll check them out in the spring.
Link Posted: 11/7/2021 11:31:29 AM EDT
[#5]
Put down 16 oz. per /2k sq feet of Air-8 today.

The problem to tackle next spring ...tying in my gutter downspots and redoing the two french drains the builder put in.. nothing but moss and runoff...

the green moss looks black like mold but thats because i hadnt watered in the Air8 yet.

What's a good product to nuke moss until I fix this? I have moss around some fence posts in the backyard plus some other random spots that don't drain well. Scraping it off and removing dirt with a shovel is what I've been doing.


Water runs down into this low point from the left side of the backyard, the right side of my neighbor's front yard and pools at this point.


It then is crappily drained and pushed out to the street with a bit of V shaped grade and gravel.





Link Posted: 11/7/2021 7:32:28 PM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 11/8/2021 2:28:46 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


The answer to the moss is twofold.

Iron-based products are generally used to kill moss.  HOWEVER, the moss will come back, because the moss is telling you about a problem in your yard.  You know already what the  problem is.   Poor drainage.  

I tell my clients that it is best to correct the drainage problem, and the moss will likely go away on its own.   However if it doesn't, I can always kill it.

So you're saying that area by that gate and along the fence there is a low spot and collects water from two or three different directions?  

Some surface drainage  basins might help, but you have to move the water out of there and I'm not sure how easy that would be.  No idea how hard it is to take a pipe to daylight on your property.

Also, depending on what you are calling a french drain, it might be a very bad idea to tie your gutters into those. Basically you need to take the water in the gutters AWAY from the house foundation, in hard pipe (or  whatever solid pipe you choose. I prefer hard pipe over corrugated).     If your french drains use perforated pipe, I strongly suggest NOT tying the gutters into those.




View Quote
I would rather kill the moss for now.

Yes, water collects at that low point before a gravel only drain helps take it out to the road. I have gravel on one side and corrugated with 3 inlets on the other side.

As to everything else, this video is essentially what I'll be doing. His pipe and all.

How to Bury Downspouts the Complete Guide Start to Finish 2023

Link Posted: 11/8/2021 8:48:24 PM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 11/18/2021 12:38:13 AM EDT
[#9]
Link Posted: 11/20/2021 6:10:37 PM EDT
[#10]


Good sunset lawn is definitly thicker and holding more green while more slowly going dormant it seems than last year with similiar temps.

low 40s high 30s at night. mid 60s during the day.  soil temp isnt probabky super low yet.
Link Posted: 11/22/2021 9:53:46 PM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 12/5/2021 8:03:50 AM EDT
[#12]
Lawn is sleeping. Turf care was by and added 37 lbs lime over 3700 sq ft evidently while I was out of town this week.

ALL THE SOIL BALANCES FOR LE SPRINGTIME
Link Posted: 12/6/2021 12:20:43 AM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 12/11/2021 4:48:33 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



So they added 10 lbs of lime per thousand?

Yeah...that's not enough.

More in spring!

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Quoted:
Quoted:
Lawn is sleeping. Turf care was by and added 37 lbs lime over 3700 sq ft evidently while I was out of town this week.

ALL THE SOIL BALANCES FOR LE SPRINGTIME



So they added 10 lbs of lime per thousand?

Yeah...that's not enough.

More in spring!

All the limes. I need to out down some of the moss stuff i got tomorrow.
Link Posted: 12/12/2021 9:35:48 PM EDT
[#15]
Link Posted: 1/29/2022 8:39:46 PM EDT
[#16]
Link Posted: 3/25/2022 10:56:54 PM EDT
[#17]
Link Posted: 3/26/2022 6:31:12 AM EDT
[#18]
Georgia can't make up its mind temperature wise. late freeze nuked my flowers. ill be needing help with some front bed ideas. some patches are starting to green but its still 90% dormant.

I'll be putting down more lime next week.  and i need to spray some moss spots. should i wait to do the spring scalping when it greens up? no idea what my soil temp currently is. if i had to guess mid 50s.
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 7:51:14 PM EDT
[#19]
Spring update. I need some suggestions for my front beds.

I have an Ewing Irrigation store nearby. I plan on picking up 120 lbs. of non pelletized lime for the lawn, and then mulch (and sand? help drainage? / potting soil)) to freshen up these beds that haven't seen any love other than weeding since the builder put in the plants and pine straw in late 2019.

This is the first bed. I plan on keeping the ornamentals and Japanese holly for the time being. The problems with this bed include moss spots that grow on top the clay due to the lack of good drainage from this bed to lower elevation parts of the lawn and mulch washing onto the sidewalk after a heavy rain. I will be scraping out all the old 2019 pine straw and rocks, etc. along with considering taking the bed clay down an inch or so to stop the mulch washing off during a rain storm. I like the look of black mulch, but need recommendations here. I do not want to do stone, and would rather have larger mulch pieces that do not wash away easily. Question 1: what is the type of mulch I should use? Question 2: Should I lay down sand to help drainage first? Question 3: Should I put down a weed fabric? I am primarily concerned with dealing with visible moss and weed growth until I can plumb drains for this bed under the sidewalk into the lower lawn. This will be de-weeded obviously (I haven't touched this bed since last fall).



Also, I would like to remove the orange clay stains on the facade stone. Any chemicals that work with some scrubbing without pressure cleaning?



This is the bed that I want to replace the plants that are currently there. The bladed plants send runners everywhere that are hard to keep under control. I would like to refill this bed with an edible/medical plant/plants that grow primarily upward instead of spreading out. I was considering fennel or chokeberry. I would like to keep the plants/bushes trimmed and productive under 1-2 feet in order to allow my front doorbell camera to see the entire lawn. Suggestions? I will be taking all these current plants out.





What mulch for my red maple trees? I plan on buying a manual half moon edging tool to get these redefined.



Random backyard section that has seen the benefit of closer denser spraying of chemicals due to its close border with my porch (trying to minimize overspray). What's interesting is that the runner tips are pure black. Nutrient overload? I have another section of the lawn that has this "black " look to it from the condensed area of spraying of extra nutrients ( sprayer tip closer to the ground, tighter spray pattern, etc.)





Thanks again for the continued advice. @Kitties-with-Sigs
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 8:00:20 PM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


The answer to the moss is twofold.

Iron-based products are generally used to kill moss.  HOWEVER, the moss will come back, because the moss is telling you about a problem in your yard.  You know already what the  problem is.   Poor drainage.  

I tell my clients that it is best to correct the drainage problem, and the moss will likely go away on its own.   However if it doesn't, I can always kill it.

So you're saying that area by that gate and along the fence there is a low spot and collects water from two or three different directions?  

Some surface drainage  basins might help, but you have to move the water out of there and I'm not sure how easy that would be.  No idea how hard it is to take a pipe to daylight on your property.

Also, depending on what you are calling a french drain, it might be a very bad idea to tie your gutters into those. Basically you need to take the water in the gutters AWAY from the house foundation, in hard pipe (or  whatever solid pipe you choose. I prefer hard pipe over corrugated).     If your french drains use perforated pipe, I strongly suggest NOT tying the gutters into those.




View Quote
When I get to this, it will be with products from The French Drain Man. He has a robust Youtube channel and the pipe he uses is vastly superior to regular 'ole black corregated. I need to collect all the runoff and dump it out of two big pop ups down by my curb. His channel. Is legit.
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 8:14:24 PM EDT
[#21]
I got a new job last year and a good raise. Never really cared about how my centipede yard looked because it was always ok but after the raise I wanted to try a lawn service to get a great looking yard. Long story short.after a year and 500 dollars later my yard looks worse than it ever has. Bald spots all over the place. Weeds everywhere. I swear they sprayed a combination of roundup and weed seed. Called the rep out to my house and asked him to explain himself. He couldn't but advised me they couldn't treat my lawn anymore. Asshole.
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 8:15:19 PM EDT
[#22]
Mange.
Link Posted: 4/7/2022 9:02:12 PM EDT
[#23]
First cut of the year today. Grass hasn't totally woken up, but it's on the way. I put down 150 lbs of this lime over 4k sq. feet:



Project for this weekend is to clean out the two flower beds. I need to profile the big bed to allow better drainage. There are three sprinklers in this bed. I have two turned down, but the last one i need to put a lower flow insert  as it still dumps wayyy too much water that just sits in this bed. They are Hunter spray heads, so I'm assuming I can swap in lower flow insert. Unfortunately, the two beds are on the same zone as the entire side of my house. I need to figure out a way to split the beds off on their own zone, as they dont need to run for as long and flood the bed every time. The pic below zone was on for not even 10 minutes and there is too much standing water.




eta: would love to hear some ideas for medicinal or edible shrubs that I can plant in these beds instead of these imo pointless orinmental plants.


Link Posted: 4/7/2022 9:41:37 PM EDT
[#24]
Link Posted: 4/7/2022 9:49:17 PM EDT
[#25]
Link Posted: 4/7/2022 9:53:32 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


What that means is something different than may be at first obvious, though.

The plants in the beds generally need more water--  water that goes deeper.  The trouble is...if you're watering the same time you are watering the lawn, and it's standing in the bed, your beds are compacted and hydrophobic, same as your lawn was.

You need to start treating the beds to solve the compaction issue, and to improve the soil there.

Yes, you certainly need to solve the drainage issue, cuz the sidewalk creates a swimming pool.  But unless you are dumping many gallons of water on those beds in a short time, the soil isn't percolating there, and you need to use the tools in your arsenal to treat it so it will not just drain away from the house (which it should) but perc into the root zone of the shrubs, which is generally deeper than the root zone of grass.

Not sure if I've helped, because I'm kinda shooting at a target that I can't completely see. (not safe, right?)

ETA: I predict your lawn is going to have a better year and look better than last year.  

Have you scalped it yet?

Once you do that, start putting down RGS and Air-8 once a week, alternating, as it greens up.  Let's drive some roots.

Great job on applying lime.
View Quote

I scalped it today to 1". My mower doesn't go to .5". It was almost 5 55g bags taking it down from 2 2.5" .

I did buy a manual aeration tool. So I will at a minimum stomp lots of holes in the flower beds this weekend. Your deeper root zone concept does make sense. My OCD just hates seeing mulch on my sidewalk lol. I will probably scrape off an inch or 2 of clay out of these beds. I may put down some sand or topsoil before the mulch, but i dont know what i should put down. Landscape fabric is a no go after reading.

I will start the RGS and Air8 rotation. I will also spray all the moss next week.
Link Posted: 4/7/2022 10:03:17 PM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I got a new job last year and a good raise. Never really cared about how my centipede yard looked because it was always ok but after the raise I wanted to try a lawn service to get a great looking yard. Long story short.after a year and 500 dollars later my yard looks worse than it ever has. Bald spots all over the place. Weeds everywhere. I swear they sprayed a combination of roundup and weed seed. Called the rep out to my house and asked him to explain himself. He couldn't but advised me they couldn't treat my lawn anymore. Asshole.
View Quote


If you can, check out the Southern Lawn Syndicate group on FB. Someone might be able to help and give you guidance. Dead spots can be anything from disease, fungus, debris under the soil, insect/pest damage, etc.
Link Posted: 4/7/2022 10:47:02 PM EDT
[#28]
Link Posted: 4/7/2022 10:52:00 PM EDT
[#29]
Link Posted: 4/7/2022 11:12:34 PM EDT
[#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Use compost, not sand.  I somehow missed your earlier post. Found it tonight and tried to answer.  See if it makes sense.

Why does the deeper root zone for shrubs than grass not make sense?

Bigger plants, roots grow deeper.  

What is not clear so I can make it make sense?
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Quoted:
Quoted:

I scalped it today to 1". My mower doesn't go to .5". It was almost 5 55g bags taking it down from 2 2.5" .

I did buy a manual aeration tool. So I will at a minimum stomp lots of holes in the flower beds this weekend. Your deeper root zone concept does make sense. My OCD just hates seeing mulch on my sidewalk lol. I will probably scrape off an inch or 2 of clay out of these beds. I may put down some sand or topsoil before the mulch, but i dont know what i should put down. Landscape fabric is a no go after reading.

I will start the RGS and Air8 rotation. I will also spray all the moss next week.


Use compost, not sand.  I somehow missed your earlier post. Found it tonight and tried to answer.  See if it makes sense.

Why does the deeper root zone for shrubs than grass not make sense?

Bigger plants, roots grow deeper.  

What is not clear so I can make it make sense?
It does make sense. thanks for taking the time to respond to my posts. I already bought black mulch so I will run with pine nuggets next year. The mulch I got is Scotts weed control stuff that was pine bark shreds and about $1 per bag more than the rest of the stuff at Lowes.

I really do want to change the plants in the beds to plants that have a use. the color is nice, but doesnt give me something to chew on or aloe for the cut on my finger. I eventually want all useful plants and trees.
Link Posted: 4/7/2022 11:16:56 PM EDT
[#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I somehow missed this one. Saw the tag but went to the next post rather than this one.

Let's see if I can address some of these questions.





No, not sand.  Unless you dig it in.  And even then it should not be ALL sand. My choice would be compost of some sort.  Something spongy like peat moss if no compost is available, but basically, getting some larger particles into what I suspect is heavy clay just like the rest of your yard.  I seriously doubt they put good soil in those beds, and crap soil on the rest of the yard. It's all the same garbage soil that you need to build up so your beds perform well...those shrubs have bigger, deeper roots, and whatever is there is tough as hell, or would be dead by now.    You likely need to lime those beds, too.  Maybe not as much as you lime your grass, but you need to be giving those beds some humic acid, air-8, RGS, and lime when you give that to your grass.   Whatever you put there you are going to need to dig in, at least a little bit.  Work it into the top layer of soil with some kind of light cultivation. This will help break up that hydrophobic top layer of clay (which is part of what's causing the beds to not drain--that's not ALL of the reason, but it is a factor) as well as providing some organic matter and just plan loosening up that heavy clay.

This is the first bed. I plan on keeping the ornamentals   (you mean those things with the pink blooms?) and Japanese holly for the time being. The problems with this bed include moss spots that grow on top the clay due to the lack of good drainage from this bed to lower elevation parts of the lawn and mulch washing onto the sidewalk after a heavy rain. I will be scraping out all the old 2019 pine straw and rocks, etc. along with considering taking the bed clay down an inch or so to stop the mulch washing off during a rain storm. I like the look of black mulch, but need recommendations here. I do not want to do stone, and would rather have larger mulch pieces that do not wash away easily. Question 1: what is the type of mulch I should use? Question 2: Should I lay down sand to help drainage first? Question 3: Should I put down a weed fabric? I am primarily concerned with dealing with visible moss and weed growth until I can plumb drains for this bed under the sidewalk into the lower lawn. This will be de-weeded obviously (I haven't touched this bed since last fall).

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220329_182455-2331039.jpg



I hate painted mulch, so know that going in.  I'm prejudiced.  Black mulch is painted and I think it looks completely unnatural.

If you want a good-looking mulch and can afford it, I suggest pine bark nuggets--biggest nuggets you can get.  If you don't have huge bed spaces, you can buy this bagged.  If you need a trailer load, you can get that too, but in my experience it is more expensive that way unless you can install it yourself. The labor/delivery cost for trailer/truck loads of mulch far outweighs the cost of the bags you can do yourself, unless you can go, fetch, haul, and spread the trailer-load without paying somebody else to do that.  If you can, just go to your local mulch place, pick the biggest pine bark nugget mulch they sell, schedule the delivery and installation and write a check.

I will tell you that mini-pine-bark nuggets is the best-looking mulch installation (and the most expensive) I've ever done.  The customers who can afford to drop the money for that have gorgeous properties, and the mulch is a big part of it (along with the professionally edged beds, which you SOUND like you know how to do, since you are going to buy the edger to edge your maples.  That same edge (about 4" deep) should go around all your landscape beds that do not have borders created by hardscape like sidewalks or other concrete/paved surfaces.






Not on your beds, no.  Compost, worked into the soil, is what I suggest.





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I've limed these beds as well. I include them in the alternating treatments as well.

Peat moss instead of sand, got it.

Pine nugget mulch will be next year, as I already bought the sq footage of black pine mulch I needed.

Link Posted: 4/8/2022 3:52:27 PM EDT
[#32]
Link Posted: 4/8/2022 6:36:31 PM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Okay, it's going to look good no matter what you do for mulch.  The black mulch is like having black carpet.  Every little blade of grass or piece of leaf on it shows, which is part of what bothers me.  Some people love it, but it drives me nuts.  Just because I don't like it, doesn't mean you shouldn't. :0)

Be sure to include the Air-8 and other biostimulants in those beds.  With the black mulch, there won't be staining of the mulch that shows, which is a nice thing.

OH! ETA:  Don't use ground up peat moss.  If you're going to go peat, you need whole peat.  You're after adding bulk to the soil.  Compost is the best choice.  Sphagnum peat if you can find bales of it. But the stuff you get at Lowes and Home Depot in bales is ground up into powder.  That's not what you want.    Compost is the best thing you can use.

@Thrustmystoma
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Noted. Thanks!
Link Posted: 4/9/2022 9:43:23 PM EDT
[#34]
some pics from mulching two beds today. gonna mulch n reprofile the two tree beds tomorrow.


















btw fuck clay lol.
Link Posted: 4/12/2022 2:56:47 PM EDT
[#35]
Link Posted: 4/12/2022 5:46:36 PM EDT
[#36]
Get some sand, dry it on the driveway and shovel it into your spreader to walk around the yard.  Aeration first is preferred

I did this at a prior house that had essentially sod on top of clay and was having a similar issue with my grass (only my yard looked a lot thinner and not as heAlthy as yours).  The grass took off like crazy. I’d hit it again each spring with more, alternating between sand and top soil. It was one of the better lawns on the street when we moved.
Link Posted: 4/12/2022 7:19:32 PM EDT
[#37]
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Quoted:


Clay has its positives.

But you want to loosen it up.  Which brings me to "whatcha doin' with that tamper?"


Excellent job on the edges. That's not easy in clay soil.  Nice looking edge.  Glad you are doing it around the inside of the sidewalk too, as that helps the mulch stay off the sidewalk a bit.
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Quoted:


Clay has its positives.

But you want to loosen it up.  Which brings me to "whatcha doin' with that tamper?"


Excellent job on the edges. That's not easy in clay soil.  Nice looking edge.  Glad you are doing it around the inside of the sidewalk too, as that helps the mulch stay off the sidewalk a bit.
the tamper i was reusing the clay from the dug out edges to fill in low spots and level the beds. i tried to only pack it enough to hold the pieces.
Link Posted: 4/12/2022 7:20:28 PM EDT
[#38]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Get some sand, dry it on the driveway and shovel it into your spreader to walk around the yard.  Aeration first is preferred

I did this at a prior house that had essentially sod on top of clay and was having a similar issue with my grass (only my yard looked a lot thinner and not as heAlthy as yours).  The grass took off like crazy. I'd hit it again each spring with more, alternating between sand and top soil. It was one of the better lawns on the street when we moved.
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good points. i didnt consider using my spreader to spread soil and sand. i still need to aerate and decide how much i care about leveling my yard right now.
Link Posted: 4/14/2022 12:25:41 AM EDT
[#39]
Link Posted: 4/18/2022 9:54:07 AM EDT
[#40]
Hey Kitties I hope you’re doing well! You helped me a couple of years ago and now I’m back to ask for further assistance I know you don’t deal with warm season grasses but maybe you can point me in the right direction.
Not sure if this is a fix everyone’s lawn thread or I need to start my own.

I’m in a new build near Houston Texas. St Augustine sod laid in January 2022. The ground is what we call gumbo which is a sticky wet clay, then a couple of inches of sand/clay mix and then the sod was laid on top. So the only soil/nutrients are in the sod.

Everything for the most part is green besides some pieces of sod that never took, and random dead spots where I’m finding builders treasures that were buried. I was told not to put any pre emergent down for the first year on new sod so I’m coming to seek advice for post emergent stuff.

I’ve for sure got the following weeds and probably some more: henbit deadnettle, poa annua, spiny snowthistle, marsh parsley, lesser swinecress, scarlet pimpernel, Common mugwort, common carpet grass, Virginia plantain, chickweed, and garden sorrel.

My research so far has lead me to believe that Celsius and Certainty make for a good combo for post emergent with my current weeds and warmer temps.

I’ve got an irrigation system to water deep in the morning before sunrise.

This past weekend was my 3rd mow and I applied Lesco 20-5-10 fert afterwards and watered in.

Also, the guys who laid the sod did a great job of spacing the pieces out by an inch or 2 instead of touching them so I’ve got a lot of unevenness and divots. Would it make sense to get some masonry sand and try to level things out next month once things get growing more?

Sorry for all the questions at once, I’ve been meaning to post here a little at a time but getting settled into a new house takes all of my free time

ETA: I have not had a soil test done. With it being sod, sand and clay, should I still get one done or wait until next year?
Link Posted: 4/18/2022 8:53:43 PM EDT
[#41]
Link Posted: 4/18/2022 9:19:47 PM EDT
[#42]
Sorry I didn’t see the other thread, I’ll copy my message over there
Link Posted: 4/18/2022 9:50:12 PM EDT
[#43]
Link Posted: 4/22/2022 3:54:36 PM EDT
[#44]
grass sure is waking up slow this year I want to see green
Link Posted: 4/22/2022 4:38:39 PM EDT
[#45]
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Quoted:
grass sure is waking up slow this year I want to see green
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Same here. My backyard zoysia is taking forever, it’s looking rough since I scalped it a couple weeks ago. Hope it wasn’t too early.
Link Posted: 4/25/2022 1:16:43 AM EDT
[#46]
Link Posted: 4/27/2022 5:19:46 PM EDT
[#47]
Quoted:



Same here.  Trees are waking up slow here too.

Like they KNOW something we don't.

Like it's gonna freeze on Mother's Day weekend again or something.

[/qute]

would not surprise me. yard is still half brown here. seems really late compared to last year.
Link Posted: 4/27/2022 5:24:18 PM EDT
[#48]
finally knocked out the rest of the mulch beds. couldnt be lazy too much longer as today was probably one of the last days in the 70s.







I really need to decide on a fruit tree replacement for my two red maples. something dwarfish that wont get much bigger than 15 20 feet tall and 10ish feet wide.  leaning towards 1 pear tree and 1 tree that bears some kind of fruit that is hard and travels well versus a softer fruit. ideas?
Link Posted: 4/29/2022 2:40:46 PM EDT
[#49]
Sprayed a heavy dose of some Moss Out on my perptually shadey moss growth spots yesterday. I need to do this in the fall and over the winter.

Put down some Flagship 24-0-6 magic beans today from the lawn care nut at the recommended rate of 3lb/1k feet.




Link Posted: 4/29/2022 4:19:25 PM EDT
[#50]
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Quoted:
Put down some Flagship 24-0-6 magic beans today from the lawn care nut at the recommened rate of 3lb/1k feet.
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Nice! I used that stuff last season with good results but switched to their 17-7-6 this year (soil is a bit low on phos). Your mulch beds with the natural edge looks great.

Just finished a mow of the front and sprayed a foliar iron app. Planning to fert tomorrow.

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