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Quoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20211030_154916-2148907.jpghttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20211030_154827-2148906.jpghttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20211030_154842-2148905.jpg I do want to swap out that maple for a hard pear tree that wont get super big. I have 1 maple in the front and 1 in the back. I want to get rid of both for fruit. View Quote It's browning out going into dormancy but does it actually look a little thicker than it was? Or are you just not showing the thin spots? Have you noticed any change in the lawn itself, or in the ground? One test you can do is pick a few areas, take a throwaway screwdriver, and shove it into the ground. See how easily it goes in. You can either put "Could only get 2" in" or... If it goes all the way in, label the ease from 1 to 10. Write that in your lawn journal with the date. After some more treatments, try it again. Label the ease with which it goes in. It's an objective way to see how your soil is opening up, or if it IS even changing. If the screwdriver goes in more easily, so will water and air (major simplification here, but somewhat true). Maybe you can find a better source for dolomitic lime over the winter. What a shame that the staff wasn't more helpful. |
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Don't know if any of these stores are within reasonable driving distance, but I would expect a wider selection and a more knowledgeable staff at one of them. Not that I'm a fan of site one. But they do tend to know their business.
Site One Landscape Supply houses in Georgia ETA: There are a bunch more in Georgia than those three with the big balloons. You gotta click the "view all" to see them. |
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Quoted: It's browning out going into dormancy but does it actually look a little thicker than it was? Or are you just not showing the thin spots? Have you noticed any change in the lawn itself, or in the ground? One test you can do is pick a few areas, take a throwaway screwdriver, and shove it into the ground. See how easily it goes in. You can either put "Could only get 2" in" or... If it goes all the way in, label the ease from 1 to 10. Write that in your lawn journal with the date. After some more treatments, try it again. Label the ease with which it goes in. It's an objective way to see how your soil is opening up, or if it IS even changing. If the screwdriver goes in more easily, so will water and air (major simplification here, but somewhat true). Maybe you can find a better source for dolomitic lime over the winter. What a shame that the staff wasn't more helpful. View Quote |
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Quoted:
Don't know if any of these stores are within reasonable driving distance, but I would expect a wider selection and a more knowledgeable staff at one of them. Not that I'm a fan of site one. But they do tend to know their business. Site One Landscape Supply houses in Georgia ETA: There are a bunch more in Georgia than those three with the big balloons. You gotta click the "view all" to see them. [/qu] the augusta store is not for from me, I'll check them out in the spring. |
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Quoted: Put down 16 oz. per /2k sq feet of Air-8 today. The problem to tackle next spring ...tying in my gutter downspots and redoing the two french drains the builder put in.. nothing but moss and runoff... the green moss looks black like mold but thats because i hadnt watered in the Air8 yet. What's a good product to nuke moss until I fix this? I have moss around some fence posts in the backyard plus some other random spots that don't drain well. Scraping it off and removing dirt with a shovel is what I've been doing. Water runs down into this low point from the left side of the backyard, the right side of my neighbor's front yard and pools at this point. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20211107_102604-2158033.jpg It then is crappily drained and pushed out to the street with a bit of V shaped grade and gravel. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20211107_102614-2158034.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20211107_103212-2158037.jpg View Quote The answer to the moss is twofold. Iron-based products are generally used to kill moss. HOWEVER, the moss will come back, because the moss is telling you about a problem in your yard. You know already what the problem is. Poor drainage. I tell my clients that it is best to correct the drainage problem, and the moss will likely go away on its own. However if it doesn't, I can always kill it. So you're saying that area by that gate and along the fence there is a low spot and collects water from two or three different directions? Some surface drainage basins might help, but you have to move the water out of there and I'm not sure how easy that would be. No idea how hard it is to take a pipe to daylight on your property. Also, depending on what you are calling a french drain, it might be a very bad idea to tie your gutters into those. Basically you need to take the water in the gutters AWAY from the house foundation, in hard pipe (or whatever solid pipe you choose. I prefer hard pipe over corrugated). If your french drains use perforated pipe, I strongly suggest NOT tying the gutters into those. |
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Quoted: The answer to the moss is twofold. Iron-based products are generally used to kill moss. HOWEVER, the moss will come back, because the moss is telling you about a problem in your yard. You know already what the problem is. Poor drainage. I tell my clients that it is best to correct the drainage problem, and the moss will likely go away on its own. However if it doesn't, I can always kill it. So you're saying that area by that gate and along the fence there is a low spot and collects water from two or three different directions? Some surface drainage basins might help, but you have to move the water out of there and I'm not sure how easy that would be. No idea how hard it is to take a pipe to daylight on your property. Also, depending on what you are calling a french drain, it might be a very bad idea to tie your gutters into those. Basically you need to take the water in the gutters AWAY from the house foundation, in hard pipe (or whatever solid pipe you choose. I prefer hard pipe over corrugated). If your french drains use perforated pipe, I strongly suggest NOT tying the gutters into those. View Quote Yes, water collects at that low point before a gravel only drain helps take it out to the road. I have gravel on one side and corrugated with 3 inlets on the other side. As to everything else, this video is essentially what I'll be doing. His pipe and all. How to Bury Downspouts the Complete Guide Start to Finish 2023 |
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Okay then I would get something like this:
Moss-out for lawns from the Zon Lily Miller Moss Out for Lawns--here is the label) Get the gallon. The Ready-to-Spray units don't go very far, and you're going to have to repeat this. You can use it in your hose-end sprayer. You will have to repeat it until you correct a-your pH, and b-your drainage. Moss likes a damp, acidic environment. You've got both, in spades, right there. Toss a bit of extra lime down on that part of the lawn when you lime. |
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Bump for updates?
It's about to get cold where I am, but probably not cold enough to stop much of anything where you are. |
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Quoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20211120_170831-2174724.jpg Good sunset lawn is definitly thicker and holding more green while more slowly going dormant it seems than last year with similiar temps. low 40s high 30s at night. mid 60s during the day. soil temp isnt probabky super low yet. View Quote This is good news! |
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Lawn is sleeping. Turf care was by and added 37 lbs lime over 3700 sq ft evidently while I was out of town this week.
ALL THE SOIL BALANCES FOR LE SPRINGTIME |
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Quoted: So they added 10 lbs of lime per thousand? Yeah...that's not enough. More in spring! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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I'd be interested to know what they charge you for putting down 37 lbs of lime.
Oh and..did you tell them you put down twice that earlier? |
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Bump
@Thrustmystoma I wanna know how your lawn is looking. I know it's not out of dormancy yet, but it might be showing signs of life. |
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Georgia can't make up its mind temperature wise. late freeze nuked my flowers. ill be needing help with some front bed ideas. some patches are starting to green but its still 90% dormant.
I'll be putting down more lime next week. and i need to spray some moss spots. should i wait to do the spring scalping when it greens up? no idea what my soil temp currently is. if i had to guess mid 50s. |
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Quoted: The answer to the moss is twofold. Iron-based products are generally used to kill moss. HOWEVER, the moss will come back, because the moss is telling you about a problem in your yard. You know already what the problem is. Poor drainage. I tell my clients that it is best to correct the drainage problem, and the moss will likely go away on its own. However if it doesn't, I can always kill it. So you're saying that area by that gate and along the fence there is a low spot and collects water from two or three different directions? Some surface drainage basins might help, but you have to move the water out of there and I'm not sure how easy that would be. No idea how hard it is to take a pipe to daylight on your property. Also, depending on what you are calling a french drain, it might be a very bad idea to tie your gutters into those. Basically you need to take the water in the gutters AWAY from the house foundation, in hard pipe (or whatever solid pipe you choose. I prefer hard pipe over corrugated). If your french drains use perforated pipe, I strongly suggest NOT tying the gutters into those. View Quote |
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I got a new job last year and a good raise. Never really cared about how my centipede yard looked because it was always ok but after the raise I wanted to try a lawn service to get a great looking yard. Long story short.after a year and 500 dollars later my yard looks worse than it ever has. Bald spots all over the place. Weeds everywhere. I swear they sprayed a combination of roundup and weed seed. Called the rep out to my house and asked him to explain himself. He couldn't but advised me they couldn't treat my lawn anymore. Asshole.
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Quoted: First cut of the year today. Grass hasn't totally woken up, but it's on the way. I put down 150 lbs of this lime over 4k sq. feet: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220407_175923-2341494.jpg Project for this weekend is to clean out the two flower beds. I need to profile the big bed to allow better drainage. There are three sprinklers in this bed. I have two turned down, but the last one i need to put a lower flow insert as it still dumps wayyy too much water that just sits in this bed. They are Hunter spray heads, so I'm assuming I can swap in lower flow insert. Unfortunately, the two beds are on the same zone as the entire side of my house. I need to figure out a way to split the beds off on their own zone, as they dont need to run for as long and flood the bed every time. The pic below zone was on for not even 10 minutes and there is too much standing water. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220407_190544-2341509.jpg View Quote What that means is something different than may be at first obvious, though. The plants in the beds generally need more water-- water that goes deeper. The trouble is...if you're watering the same time you are watering the lawn, and it's standing in the bed, your beds are compacted and hydrophobic, same as your lawn was. You need to start treating the beds to solve the compaction issue, and to improve the soil there. Yes, you certainly need to solve the drainage issue, cuz the sidewalk creates a swimming pool. But unless you are dumping many gallons of water on those beds in a short time, the soil isn't percolating there, and you need to use the tools in your arsenal to treat it so it will not just drain away from the house (which it should) but perc into the root zone of the shrubs, which is generally deeper than the root zone of grass. Not sure if I've helped, because I'm kinda shooting at a target that I can't completely see. (not safe, right?) ETA: I predict your lawn is going to have a better year and look better than last year. Have you scalped it yet? Once you do that, start putting down RGS and Air-8 once a week, alternating, as it greens up. Let's drive some roots. Great job on applying lime. |
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Quoted: I got a new job last year and a good raise. Never really cared about how my centipede yard looked because it was always ok but after the raise I wanted to try a lawn service to get a great looking yard. Long story short.after a year and 500 dollars later my yard looks worse than it ever has. Bald spots all over the place. Weeds everywhere. I swear they sprayed a combination of roundup and weed seed. Called the rep out to my house and asked him to explain himself. He couldn't but advised me they couldn't treat my lawn anymore. Asshole. View Quote @badeffect10 That's a horrible story. I won't lie to you. I know ZERO about centipede, and it's one of the more difficult grasses to manage. If you want to IM me your city I will see if I know someone in that area. If you want to take it on yourself, I can suggest some education and give general suggestions about how to proceed, but unlike the Bermudagrass that @Thrustmystoma has, I am basically useless for any real help at problem solving. |
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Quoted: What that means is something different than may be at first obvious, though. The plants in the beds generally need more water-- water that goes deeper. The trouble is...if you're watering the same time you are watering the lawn, and it's standing in the bed, your beds are compacted and hydrophobic, same as your lawn was. You need to start treating the beds to solve the compaction issue, and to improve the soil there. Yes, you certainly need to solve the drainage issue, cuz the sidewalk creates a swimming pool. But unless you are dumping many gallons of water on those beds in a short time, the soil isn't percolating there, and you need to use the tools in your arsenal to treat it so it will not just drain away from the house (which it should) but perc into the root zone of the shrubs, which is generally deeper than the root zone of grass. Not sure if I've helped, because I'm kinda shooting at a target that I can't completely see. (not safe, right?) ETA: I predict your lawn is going to have a better year and look better than last year. Have you scalped it yet? Once you do that, start putting down RGS and Air-8 once a week, alternating, as it greens up. Let's drive some roots. Great job on applying lime. View Quote I scalped it today to 1". My mower doesn't go to .5". It was almost 5 55g bags taking it down from 2 2.5" . I did buy a manual aeration tool. So I will at a minimum stomp lots of holes in the flower beds this weekend. Your deeper root zone concept does make sense. My OCD just hates seeing mulch on my sidewalk lol. I will probably scrape off an inch or 2 of clay out of these beds. I may put down some sand or topsoil before the mulch, but i dont know what i should put down. Landscape fabric is a no go after reading. I will start the RGS and Air8 rotation. I will also spray all the moss next week. |
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Quoted: I got a new job last year and a good raise. Never really cared about how my centipede yard looked because it was always ok but after the raise I wanted to try a lawn service to get a great looking yard. Long story short.after a year and 500 dollars later my yard looks worse than it ever has. Bald spots all over the place. Weeds everywhere. I swear they sprayed a combination of roundup and weed seed. Called the rep out to my house and asked him to explain himself. He couldn't but advised me they couldn't treat my lawn anymore. Asshole. View Quote If you can, check out the Southern Lawn Syndicate group on FB. Someone might be able to help and give you guidance. Dead spots can be anything from disease, fungus, debris under the soil, insect/pest damage, etc. |
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I somehow missed this one. Saw the tag but went to the next post rather than this one.
Let's see if I can address some of these questions. Quoted: Spring update. I need some suggestions for my front beds. I have an Ewing Irrigation store nearby. I plan on picking up 120 lbs. of non pelletized lime for the lawn, and then mulch (and sand? help drainage? / potting soil)) to freshen up these beds that haven't seen any love other than weeding since the builder put in the plants and pine straw in late 2019. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Spring update. I need some suggestions for my front beds. I have an Ewing Irrigation store nearby. I plan on picking up 120 lbs. of non pelletized lime for the lawn, and then mulch (and sand? help drainage? / potting soil)) to freshen up these beds that haven't seen any love other than weeding since the builder put in the plants and pine straw in late 2019. No, not sand. Unless you dig it in. And even then it should not be ALL sand. My choice would be compost of some sort. Something spongy like peat moss if no compost is available, but basically, getting some larger particles into what I suspect is heavy clay just like the rest of your yard. I seriously doubt they put good soil in those beds, and crap soil on the rest of the yard. It's all the same garbage soil that you need to build up so your beds perform well...those shrubs have bigger, deeper roots, and whatever is there is tough as hell, or would be dead by now. You likely need to lime those beds, too. Maybe not as much as you lime your grass, but you need to be giving those beds some humic acid, air-8, RGS, and lime when you give that to your grass. Whatever you put there you are going to need to dig in, at least a little bit. Work it into the top layer of soil with some kind of light cultivation. This will help break up that hydrophobic top layer of clay (which is part of what's causing the beds to not drain--that's not ALL of the reason, but it is a factor) as well as providing some organic matter and just plan loosening up that heavy clay. This is the first bed. I plan on keeping the ornamentals (you mean those things with the pink blooms?) and Japanese holly for the time being. The problems with this bed include moss spots that grow on top the clay due to the lack of good drainage from this bed to lower elevation parts of the lawn and mulch washing onto the sidewalk after a heavy rain. I will be scraping out all the old 2019 pine straw and rocks, etc. along with considering taking the bed clay down an inch or so to stop the mulch washing off during a rain storm. I like the look of black mulch, but need recommendations here. I do not want to do stone, and would rather have larger mulch pieces that do not wash away easily. Question 1: what is the type of mulch I should use? Question 2: Should I lay down sand to help drainage first? Question 3: Should I put down a weed fabric? I am primarily concerned with dealing with visible moss and weed growth until I can plumb drains for this bed under the sidewalk into the lower lawn. This will be de-weeded obviously (I haven't touched this bed since last fall). https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220329_182455-2331039.jpg Question 1: what is the type of mulch I should use? I hate painted mulch, so know that going in. I'm prejudiced. Black mulch is painted and I think it looks completely unnatural. If you want a good-looking mulch and can afford it, I suggest pine bark nuggets--biggest nuggets you can get. If you don't have huge bed spaces, you can buy this bagged. If you need a trailer load, you can get that too, but in my experience it is more expensive that way unless you can install it yourself. The labor/delivery cost for trailer/truck loads of mulch far outweighs the cost of the bags you can do yourself, unless you can go, fetch, haul, and spread the trailer-load without paying somebody else to do that. If you can, just go to your local mulch place, pick the biggest pine bark nugget mulch they sell, schedule the delivery and installation and write a check. I will tell you that mini-pine-bark nuggets is the best-looking mulch installation (and the most expensive) I've ever done. The customers who can afford to drop the money for that have gorgeous properties, and the mulch is a big part of it (along with the professionally edged beds, which you SOUND like you know how to do, since you are going to buy the edger to edge your maples. That same edge (about 4" deep) should go around all your landscape beds that do not have borders created by hardscape like sidewalks or other concrete/paved surfaces. Question 2: Should I lay down sand to help drainage first? Not on your beds, no. Compost, worked into the soil, is what I suggest. Question 3: Should I put down a weed fabric? I am primarily concerned with dealing with visible moss and weed growth until I can plumb drains for this bed under the sidewalk into the lower lawn. This will be de-weeded obviously (I haven't touched this bed since last fall). [j/quote] Weed fabric is a good thing generally, but in your situation, I would NOT put that down right now IF you are willing to purchase and apply a weed control product (easy--I'm talking about sprinkling Preen every three months) because I think for you at this point, the better focus is on improving that soil. Weed control fabric is fine, BUT...it doesn't stop all weeds, and a lot of weeds just germinate on top of it. In particular, because you have bermudagrass, there's no such thing as total weed control in your beds without chems. If you want something better than Preen, more like what I use for weed control in ornamental beds, those chemicals are available, but they are NOT cheap. Also, I would like to remove the orange clay stains on the facade stone. Any chemicals that work with some scrubbing without pressure cleaning? I've never done this any way other than pressure washing, and have no idea how to get that off with chemicals that won't hurt your soil/plants. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220329_182502-2331041.jpg This is the bed that I want to replace the plants that are currently there. The bladed plants send runners everywhere that are hard to keep under control. I would like to refill this bed with an edible/medical plant/plants that grow primarily upward instead of spreading out. I was considering fennel or chokeberry. I would like to keep the plants/bushes trimmed and productive under 1-2 feet in order to allow my front doorbell camera to see the entire lawn. Suggestions? I will be taking all these current plants out. This is in your front yard? I'm hearing two things. 1-I want plants that grow upward rather than spread. 2-I want plants that stay short. That's a rough combination of requests. Also, since it sounds like it's your front yard, you might want them to also be pretty. My suggestion would be to grow medicinal/edible/herb-type plants in the back. Most of those sorts of plants look really weedy most of the time. If this is your front yard, make it pretty. Keep that holly and plant some annuals in there, cuz those don't get very tall, and will give you nice color. If you don't want annuals, get some low-growing junipers like blue rug (I'm only guessing those will grow where you are) which grow EXTREMELY slowly and are easy to prune lightly once a year to keep in bounds. So yeah, they spread, but they spread like a sloth moves. Super slow. Feel absolutely free to say "screw that I want Food/medicine/herbs there out front" and at that point we can talk about options. Not sure your HOA will like that, but I don't know that situation so maybe they don't care. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220329_182525-2331047.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220329_182518-2331048.jpg What mulch for my red maple trees? I plan on buying a manual half moon edging tool to get these redefined. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220329_182321-2331055.jpg I would do the same kind of mulch around the trees as I put in the beds, for a nice finished look. It is serving the same purpose, looks better all the same, and is generally simpler to just do one mulch. Random backyard section that has seen the benefit of closer denser spraying of chemicals due to its close border with my porch (trying to minimize overspray). What's interesting is that the runner tips are pure black. Nutrient overload? I have another section of the lawn that has this "black " look to it from the condensed area of spraying of extra nutrients ( sprayer tip closer to the ground, tighter spray pattern, etc.) Almost certainly not nutrient overload, but maybe an imbalance of some sort, which would not surprise me given the soil test. I DON'T KNOW what is causing that, or if it is a problem. Are you sure it's BLACK and not just compacted reddish color like new stems? Let me do some looking either way. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220329_182248-2331088.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220329_184720-2331061.jpg Thanks again for the continued advice. @Kitties-with-Sigs |
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Quoted: I scalped it today to 1". My mower doesn't go to .5". It was almost 5 55g bags taking it down from 2 2.5" . I did buy a manual aeration tool. So I will at a minimum stomp lots of holes in the flower beds this weekend. Your deeper root zone concept does make sense. My OCD just hates seeing mulch on my sidewalk lol. I will probably scrape off an inch or 2 of clay out of these beds. I may put down some sand or topsoil before the mulch, but i dont know what i should put down. Landscape fabric is a no go after reading. I will start the RGS and Air8 rotation. I will also spray all the moss next week. View Quote Use compost, not sand. I somehow missed your earlier post. Found it tonight and tried to answer. See if it makes sense. Why does the deeper root zone for shrubs than grass not make sense? Bigger plants, roots grow deeper. What is not clear so I can make it make sense? |
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Quoted: Use compost, not sand. I somehow missed your earlier post. Found it tonight and tried to answer. See if it makes sense. Why does the deeper root zone for shrubs than grass not make sense? Bigger plants, roots grow deeper. What is not clear so I can make it make sense? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I scalped it today to 1". My mower doesn't go to .5". It was almost 5 55g bags taking it down from 2 2.5" . I did buy a manual aeration tool. So I will at a minimum stomp lots of holes in the flower beds this weekend. Your deeper root zone concept does make sense. My OCD just hates seeing mulch on my sidewalk lol. I will probably scrape off an inch or 2 of clay out of these beds. I may put down some sand or topsoil before the mulch, but i dont know what i should put down. Landscape fabric is a no go after reading. I will start the RGS and Air8 rotation. I will also spray all the moss next week. Use compost, not sand. I somehow missed your earlier post. Found it tonight and tried to answer. See if it makes sense. Why does the deeper root zone for shrubs than grass not make sense? Bigger plants, roots grow deeper. What is not clear so I can make it make sense? I really do want to change the plants in the beds to plants that have a use. the color is nice, but doesnt give me something to chew on or aloe for the cut on my finger. I eventually want all useful plants and trees. |
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Quoted: I somehow missed this one. Saw the tag but went to the next post rather than this one. Let's see if I can address some of these questions. No, not sand. Unless you dig it in. And even then it should not be ALL sand. My choice would be compost of some sort. Something spongy like peat moss if no compost is available, but basically, getting some larger particles into what I suspect is heavy clay just like the rest of your yard. I seriously doubt they put good soil in those beds, and crap soil on the rest of the yard. It's all the same garbage soil that you need to build up so your beds perform well...those shrubs have bigger, deeper roots, and whatever is there is tough as hell, or would be dead by now. You likely need to lime those beds, too. Maybe not as much as you lime your grass, but you need to be giving those beds some humic acid, air-8, RGS, and lime when you give that to your grass. Whatever you put there you are going to need to dig in, at least a little bit. Work it into the top layer of soil with some kind of light cultivation. This will help break up that hydrophobic top layer of clay (which is part of what's causing the beds to not drain--that's not ALL of the reason, but it is a factor) as well as providing some organic matter and just plan loosening up that heavy clay. This is the first bed. I plan on keeping the ornamentals (you mean those things with the pink blooms?) and Japanese holly for the time being. The problems with this bed include moss spots that grow on top the clay due to the lack of good drainage from this bed to lower elevation parts of the lawn and mulch washing onto the sidewalk after a heavy rain. I will be scraping out all the old 2019 pine straw and rocks, etc. along with considering taking the bed clay down an inch or so to stop the mulch washing off during a rain storm. I like the look of black mulch, but need recommendations here. I do not want to do stone, and would rather have larger mulch pieces that do not wash away easily. Question 1: what is the type of mulch I should use? Question 2: Should I lay down sand to help drainage first? Question 3: Should I put down a weed fabric? I am primarily concerned with dealing with visible moss and weed growth until I can plumb drains for this bed under the sidewalk into the lower lawn. This will be de-weeded obviously (I haven't touched this bed since last fall). https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220329_182455-2331039.jpg I hate painted mulch, so know that going in. I'm prejudiced. Black mulch is painted and I think it looks completely unnatural. If you want a good-looking mulch and can afford it, I suggest pine bark nuggets--biggest nuggets you can get. If you don't have huge bed spaces, you can buy this bagged. If you need a trailer load, you can get that too, but in my experience it is more expensive that way unless you can install it yourself. The labor/delivery cost for trailer/truck loads of mulch far outweighs the cost of the bags you can do yourself, unless you can go, fetch, haul, and spread the trailer-load without paying somebody else to do that. If you can, just go to your local mulch place, pick the biggest pine bark nugget mulch they sell, schedule the delivery and installation and write a check. I will tell you that mini-pine-bark nuggets is the best-looking mulch installation (and the most expensive) I've ever done. The customers who can afford to drop the money for that have gorgeous properties, and the mulch is a big part of it (along with the professionally edged beds, which you SOUND like you know how to do, since you are going to buy the edger to edge your maples. That same edge (about 4" deep) should go around all your landscape beds that do not have borders created by hardscape like sidewalks or other concrete/paved surfaces. Not on your beds, no. Compost, worked into the soil, is what I suggest. View Quote Peat moss instead of sand, got it. Pine nugget mulch will be next year, as I already bought the sq footage of black pine mulch I needed. |
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Quoted: I've limed these beds as well. I include them in the alternating treatments as well. Peat moss instead of sand, got it. Pine nugget mulch will be next year, as I already bought the sq footage of black pine mulch I needed. View Quote Okay, it's going to look good no matter what you do for mulch. The black mulch is like having black carpet. Every little blade of grass or piece of leaf on it shows, which is part of what bothers me. Some people love it, but it drives me nuts. Just because I don't like it, doesn't mean you shouldn't. :0) Be sure to include the Air-8 and other biostimulants in those beds. With the black mulch, there won't be staining of the mulch that shows, which is a nice thing. OH! ETA: Don't use ground up peat moss. If you're going to go peat, you need whole peat. You're after adding bulk to the soil. Compost is the best choice. Sphagnum peat if you can find bales of it. But the stuff you get at Lowes and Home Depot in bales is ground up into powder. That's not what you want. Compost is the best thing you can use. @Thrustmystoma |
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Quoted: Okay, it's going to look good no matter what you do for mulch. The black mulch is like having black carpet. Every little blade of grass or piece of leaf on it shows, which is part of what bothers me. Some people love it, but it drives me nuts. Just because I don't like it, doesn't mean you shouldn't. :0) Be sure to include the Air-8 and other biostimulants in those beds. With the black mulch, there won't be staining of the mulch that shows, which is a nice thing. OH! ETA: Don't use ground up peat moss. If you're going to go peat, you need whole peat. You're after adding bulk to the soil. Compost is the best choice. Sphagnum peat if you can find bales of it. But the stuff you get at Lowes and Home Depot in bales is ground up into powder. That's not what you want. Compost is the best thing you can use. @Thrustmystoma View Quote |
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Get some sand, dry it on the driveway and shovel it into your spreader to walk around the yard. Aeration first is preferred
I did this at a prior house that had essentially sod on top of clay and was having a similar issue with my grass (only my yard looked a lot thinner and not as heAlthy as yours). The grass took off like crazy. I’d hit it again each spring with more, alternating between sand and top soil. It was one of the better lawns on the street when we moved. |
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Quoted: Clay has its positives. But you want to loosen it up. Which brings me to "whatcha doin' with that tamper?" Excellent job on the edges. That's not easy in clay soil. Nice looking edge. Glad you are doing it around the inside of the sidewalk too, as that helps the mulch stay off the sidewalk a bit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: some pics from mulching two beds today. gonna mulch n reprofile the two tree beds tomorrow. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220409_120727-2343804.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220409_120737-2343808.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220409_131059-2343806.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220409_143820-2343810.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220409_143802-2343811.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/20220409_143854-2343814.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/signal-2022-04-09-12-22-11-472-2343815.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435747/signal-2022-04-09-14-08-09-644-2343823.jpg btw fuck clay lol. Clay has its positives. But you want to loosen it up. Which brings me to "whatcha doin' with that tamper?" Excellent job on the edges. That's not easy in clay soil. Nice looking edge. Glad you are doing it around the inside of the sidewalk too, as that helps the mulch stay off the sidewalk a bit. |
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Quoted: Get some sand, dry it on the driveway and shovel it into your spreader to walk around the yard. Aeration first is preferred I did this at a prior house that had essentially sod on top of clay and was having a similar issue with my grass (only my yard looked a lot thinner and not as heAlthy as yours). The grass took off like crazy. I'd hit it again each spring with more, alternating between sand and top soil. It was one of the better lawns on the street when we moved. View Quote |
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Hey Kitties I hope you’re doing well! You helped me a couple of years ago and now I’m back to ask for further assistance I know you don’t deal with warm season grasses but maybe you can point me in the right direction.
Not sure if this is a fix everyone’s lawn thread or I need to start my own. I’m in a new build near Houston Texas. St Augustine sod laid in January 2022. The ground is what we call gumbo which is a sticky wet clay, then a couple of inches of sand/clay mix and then the sod was laid on top. So the only soil/nutrients are in the sod. Everything for the most part is green besides some pieces of sod that never took, and random dead spots where I’m finding builders treasures that were buried. I was told not to put any pre emergent down for the first year on new sod so I’m coming to seek advice for post emergent stuff. I’ve for sure got the following weeds and probably some more: henbit deadnettle, poa annua, spiny snowthistle, marsh parsley, lesser swinecress, scarlet pimpernel, Common mugwort, common carpet grass, Virginia plantain, chickweed, and garden sorrel. My research so far has lead me to believe that Celsius and Certainty make for a good combo for post emergent with my current weeds and warmer temps. I’ve got an irrigation system to water deep in the morning before sunrise. This past weekend was my 3rd mow and I applied Lesco 20-5-10 fert afterwards and watered in. Also, the guys who laid the sod did a great job of spacing the pieces out by an inch or 2 instead of touching them so I’ve got a lot of unevenness and divots. Would it make sense to get some masonry sand and try to level things out next month once things get growing more? Sorry for all the questions at once, I’ve been meaning to post here a little at a time but getting settled into a new house takes all of my free time ETA: I have not had a soil test done. With it being sod, sand and clay, should I still get one done or wait until next year? |
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Quoted: Hey Kitties I hope you’re doing well! You helped me a couple of years ago and now I’m back to ask for further assistance I know you don’t deal with warm season grasses but maybe you can point me in the right direction. Not sure if this is a fix everyone’s lawn thread or I need to start my own. I’m in a new build near Houston Texas. St Augustine sod laid in January 2022. The ground is what we call gumbo which is a sticky wet clay, then a couple of inches of sand/clay mix and then the sod was laid on top. So the only soil/nutrients are in the sod. Everything for the most part is green besides some pieces of sod that never took, and random dead spots where I’m finding builders treasures that were buried. I was told not to put any pre emergent down for the first year on new sod so I’m coming to seek advice for post emergent stuff. I’ve for sure got the following weeds and probably some more: henbit deadnettle, poa annua, spiny snowthistle, marsh parsley, lesser swinecress, scarlet pimpernel, Common mugwort, common carpet grass, Virginia plantain, chickweed, and garden sorrel. My research so far has lead me to believe that Celsius and Certainty make for a good combo for post emergent with my current weeds and warmer temps. I’ve got an irrigation system to water deep in the morning before sunrise. This past weekend was my 3rd mow and I applied Lesco 20-5-10 fert afterwards and watered in. Also, the guys who laid the sod did a great job of spacing the pieces out by an inch or 2 instead of touching them so I’ve got a lot of unevenness and divots. Would it make sense to get some masonry sand and try to level things out next month once things get growing more? Sorry for all the questions at once, I’ve been meaning to post here a little at a time but getting settled into a new house takes all of my free time ETA: I have not had a soil test done. With it being sod, sand and clay, should I still get one done or wait until next year? View Quote I did start a lawn care thread somewhere. I have not kept it up. This would be a good post to bump it. Would you mind if I move the question there so we don't jack OP's thread? I'll do my best to help with the parts I can answer. Or would you rather move it? What do you think? ~Kitties ETA: Here is the official homestead lawn care thread |
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Sorry I didn’t see the other thread, I’ll copy my message over there
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Quoted:
Same here. Trees are waking up slow here too. Like they KNOW something we don't. Like it's gonna freeze on Mother's Day weekend again or something. [/qute] would not surprise me. yard is still half brown here. seems really late compared to last year. |
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