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Posted: 6/22/2021 12:01:27 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Can I just say, the girl at Tractor Supply.... I said, "I'm looking for Mystik grease. Are you familiar with that?" Her: Oh yes. Me: Specifically JT6 #2. Her: They made us switch to Valvoline (she inserted some number here) and we also have (Imperial or something blah blah blah numbers I don't understand yet). *I'm saying she didn't even look at a computer or hesitate. This chick knew which grease she had on the damn shelf* Me: Okay, I don't know anything about those. A trusted friend told me to go after the Mystik. Her: Yeah, that's good grease. From my experience with my six tractors, we have had very good results with (she named a brand they don't carry and one they do.) Me: You know, I'm female, so this is going to come out sounding SO wrong, but...I am impressed by talking to a woman who knows about grease. Usually when I call, I get passed over to somebody else, who is OFTEN male, and OFTEN, nobody in the store actually knows what I'm asking for, when it is anything more than, "do you have shovels?" Her: LAUGHS OUT LOUD. Oh honey. The guys in this store...they just move sacks of feed. Me:  Okey Dokey. Good to know! I was impressed with chick from Tractor supply. Current president of ILMA - independent lubricants manufacturers association - is female. Lots of females high up in my end of the oil industry. |
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Posted: 6/22/2021 12:07:23 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs]
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Current president of ILMA - independent lubricants manufacturers association - is female. Lots of females high up in my end of the oil industry. Undoubtedly! But a female on the ground in a retail store who knows about grease....that was a good day. Actually that TSC has always been good overall. It is the same store where (years back) the manager told me to "go to X place in Bowling Green" rather than buy a trailer from him. There are several go-to people there who have helped me in the past. It's a small town store, and I guess their manager's hiring philosophy is "hire people who know what the hell they are talking about." In your industry I would expect anybody, male or female, to know about grease, because that's your bread and butter. But the chick who answers the phone at the local TSC? That was a good surprise. 
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Posted: 7/18/2021 2:36:43 PM EDT
[#3]
Bumping cuz...it's a good grease thread.
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Posted: 7/28/2021 10:38:19 PM EDT
[#4]
I’ve been asked by several members - mostly in General discussions - to just do an AMA thread about fuels / lubricants. Kind of consolidation for “Hey fox, what do you think about XYZ” - I don’t particularly want to do it in GD.
I’m not super active in cars and bikes. But there’s a lot not a ton of info out there easy to get to cross reference lubricants for tractors / equipment / etc. and this is sort of my area of expertise… as I have everything from 1940s tractors and bulldozers to brand new equipment. I’m open to doing it in this forum because I’m active here. Thoughts? |
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Posted: 7/28/2021 10:45:18 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: I’ve been asked by several members - mostly in General discussions - to just do an AMA thread about fuels / lubricants. Kind of consolidation for “Hey fox, what do you think about XYZ” - I don’t particularly want to do it in GD. I’m not super active in cars and bikes. But there’s a lot not a ton of info out there easy to get to cross reference lubricants for tractors / equipment / etc. and this is sort of my area of expertise… as I have everything from 1940s tractors and bulldozers to brand new equipment. I’m open to doing it in this forum because I’m active here. Thoughts? A lot of what you just said I don't completely understand. But yes. If you think I should retitle this and edit the first post and you want to put it here, we can certainly do that. But if you'd like to do a "Official Arfcom Grease tutorial" or some such.....it would be welcome here. FYI: Every thread, event he popular ones, have dearths...just the timing of when people are on or not on, busy or not busy. This sounds like a great resource, however you do it. You will have to bump it, due to the erratic happenings with the archiving system (which I hope will be fixed at some point, but I have no timeline or even guarantee that it will be). I hope you do this in some form or another. Just...teach us all about grease. I love having you in this thread, but I think if you do one, and help us all in terms we can understand, this one will become obsolete, and that's okay. 
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Posted: 7/30/2021 2:58:30 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: A lot of what you just said I don't completely understand. But yes. If you think I should retitle this and edit the first post and you want to put it here, we can certainly do that. But if you'd like to do a "Official Arfcom Grease tutorial" or some such.....it would be welcome here. FYI: Every thread, event he popular ones, have dearths...just the timing of when people are on or not on, busy or not busy. This sounds like a great resource, however you do it. You will have to bump it, due to the erratic happenings with the archiving system (which I hope will be fixed at some point, but I have no timeline or even guarantee that it will be). I hope you do this in some form or another. Just...teach us all about grease. I love having you in this thread, but I think if you do one, and help us all in terms we can understand, this one will become obsolete, and that's okay. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: I’ve been asked by several members - mostly in General discussions - to just do an AMA thread about fuels / lubricants. Kind of consolidation for “Hey fox, what do you think about XYZ” - I don’t particularly want to do it in GD. I’m not super active in cars and bikes. But there’s a lot not a ton of info out there easy to get to cross reference lubricants for tractors / equipment / etc. and this is sort of my area of expertise… as I have everything from 1940s tractors and bulldozers to brand new equipment. I’m open to doing it in this forum because I’m active here. Thoughts? A lot of what you just said I don't completely understand. But yes. If you think I should retitle this and edit the first post and you want to put it here, we can certainly do that. But if you'd like to do a "Official Arfcom Grease tutorial" or some such.....it would be welcome here. FYI: Every thread, event he popular ones, have dearths...just the timing of when people are on or not on, busy or not busy. This sounds like a great resource, however you do it. You will have to bump it, due to the erratic happenings with the archiving system (which I hope will be fixed at some point, but I have no timeline or even guarantee that it will be). I hope you do this in some form or another. Just...teach us all about grease. I love having you in this thread, but I think if you do one, and help us all in terms we can understand, this one will become obsolete, and that's okay. @Foxtrot8 ditto to the above post that’s a great idea, I’d be interested. I already now own tubes of Mystik JT6 High Temp grease and a Milwaukee cordless grease gun because of you.
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Posted: 7/30/2021 7:36:48 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cpn_Ron: @Foxtrot8 ditto to the above post that’s a great idea, I’d be interested. I already now own tubes of Mystik JT6 High Temp grease and a Milwaukee cordless grease gun because of you. Ditto on the Mystik. After the foxtrot recommendation, I picked up a half dozen tubes the next time I was at my local farm and home for all purpose farm grease. |
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Posted: 8/29/2021 11:51:50 PM EDT
[#8]
Bumping cuz this was a really cool thread.
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Posted: 8/30/2021 12:15:39 PM EDT
[#9]
@foxtrot08
I’ve been using the Green Grease brand as my general purpose grease. Would it be worth it to switch to the Mystik JT6 HT #2 you mentioned? If so are they compatible to mix? I don’t think I could clean out many of the areas I use. Right now I’m using it on the tractor/loader implements, Jeep suspension and drive shaft, mower spindles. I have a decent manual gun but I’ve been looking at the dewalt for awhile. If I were to switch this would be a good time. I just don’t want to run into compatibility issues etc. |
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Posted: 8/30/2021 2:57:21 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mc556: @foxtrot08 I’ve been using the Green Grease brand as my general purpose grease. Would it be worth it to switch to the Mystik JT6 HT #2 you mentioned? If so are they compatible to mix? I don’t think I could clean out many of the areas I use. Right now I’m using it on the tractor/loader implements, Jeep suspension and drive shaft, mower spindles. I have a decent manual gun but I’ve been looking at the dewalt for awhile. If I were to switch this would be a good time. I just don’t want to run into compatibility issues etc. They "claim" it's compatible with Lithium greases. Grease testing is expensive and hard to do... Which is why people don't to grease analysis often. JT6 HT should be compatible with it. Green Grease is NOT GC-LB rated... So it is absolutely not good for high speed bearings and such. |
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Posted: 8/30/2021 4:01:18 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: They "claim" it's compatible with Lithium greases. Grease testing is expensive and hard to do... Which is why people don't to grease analysis often. JT6 HT should be compatible with it. Green Grease is NOT GC-LB rated... So it is absolutely not good for high speed bearings and such. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By mc556: @foxtrot08 I’ve been using the Green Grease brand as my general purpose grease. Would it be worth it to switch to the Mystik JT6 HT #2 you mentioned? If so are they compatible to mix? I don’t think I could clean out many of the areas I use. Right now I’m using it on the tractor/loader implements, Jeep suspension and drive shaft, mower spindles. I have a decent manual gun but I’ve been looking at the dewalt for awhile. If I were to switch this would be a good time. I just don’t want to run into compatibility issues etc. They "claim" it's compatible with Lithium greases. Grease testing is expensive and hard to do... Which is why people don't to grease analysis often. JT6 HT should be compatible with it. Green Grease is NOT GC-LB rated... So it is absolutely not good for high speed bearings and such. I had a feeling the Green Grease was hype, but I started using it before I became suspicious. Thanks for the quick reply |
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Posted: 8/30/2021 8:23:09 PM EDT
[#12]
@Foxtrot08
I have an oil question rather than grease. I recently bought a 2013 bobcat e50 mini excavator and was wondering what oil you would recommend. I was considering Rotella synthetic because it’s easy to find locally but wanted to get your input. Thanks. |
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Posted: 8/30/2021 10:22:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs]
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: They "claim" it's compatible with Lithium greases. Grease testing is expensive and hard to do... Which is why people don't to grease analysis often. JT6 HT should be compatible with it. Green Grease is NOT GC-LB rated... So it is absolutely not good for high speed bearings and such. Holy crap, so mower spindles would definitely fall in that category, right? My Exmark blade tip speed is just under 19,000 fpm. I cannot even imagine the heat in those spindles. |
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Posted: 8/31/2021 1:50:38 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ebrokie: @Foxtrot08 I have an oil question rather than grease. I recently bought a 2013 bobcat e50 mini excavator and was wondering what oil you would recommend. I was considering Rotella synthetic because it’s easy to find locally but wanted to get your input. Thanks. Rotella t6 5w40 is fine. Rotella T3 / T4 you have to watch. Rotella has a tendency to shear early. So just stick to regular drain intervals. I’m personally a fan of Kendall products. But they’re hard to find at times unless you have a good local distributor. |
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Posted: 8/31/2021 1:50:50 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Holy crap, so mower spindles would definitely fall in that category, right? My Exmark blade tip speed is just under 19,000 fpm. I cannot even imagine the heat in those spindles. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: They "claim" it's compatible with Lithium greases. Grease testing is expensive and hard to do... Which is why people don't to grease analysis often. JT6 HT should be compatible with it. Green Grease is NOT GC-LB rated... So it is absolutely not good for high speed bearings and such. Holy crap, so mower spindles would definitely fall in that category, right? My Exmark blade tip speed is just under 19,000 fpm. I cannot even imagine the heat in those spindles. Yep. |
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Posted: 8/31/2021 5:17:50 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Rotella t6 5w40 is fine. Rotella T3 / T4 you have to watch. Rotella has a tendency to shear early. So just stick to regular drain intervals. I’m personally a fan of Kendall products. But they’re hard to find at times unless you have a good local distributor. Thanks. I switched to Kendall for my truck on your recommendation, but I have to order it online as I can't find it locally. Was hoping to be able to pick up oil for the mini excavator rather than ordering. |
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KS, USA
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Posted: 8/31/2021 8:48:45 PM EDT
[#17]
How's the john deer polyurea grease compare to the mystic jt6ht. I have a dewalt battery grease gun, but rarely use it do to lack of feel on filling some bearings. Some places it really does save on the hand cramps using the dewalt.
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Posted: 9/1/2021 9:00:30 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By farmer-dave: How's the john deer polyurea grease compare to the mystic jt6ht. I have a dewalt battery grease gun, but rarely use it do to lack of feel on filling some bearings. Some places it really does save on the hand cramps using the dewalt. Polyurea greases are great. But very expensive. If you’re running it, don’t change unless you want to save some money. Even then I probably wouldn’t change. Just save money elsewhere. Polyurea greases could start becoming pretty rare now. |
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Posted: 9/2/2021 10:33:16 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Polyurea greases are great. But very expensive. If you’re running it, don’t change unless you want to save some money. Even then I probably wouldn’t change. Just save money elsewhere. Polyurea greases could start becoming pretty rare now. Why? |
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Posted: 9/2/2021 10:58:09 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Why? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Polyurea greases are great. But very expensive. If you’re running it, don’t change unless you want to save some money. Even then I probably wouldn’t change. Just save money elsewhere. Polyurea greases could start becoming pretty rare now. Why? The largest producer of grease in the US burned down. And they were the primary supplier for polyurea grease in the US. About 40% of total grease capacity in the US. |
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Posted: 9/2/2021 11:08:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs]
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: The largest producer of grease in the US burned down. And they were the primary supplier for polyurea grease in the US. About 40% of total grease capacity in the US. Holy crap! So....what should we buy a case of, so we have what we need? Like..WHY might we need the polyurea grease? Is it good for everything? Better than most other greases? The pinnacle of grease? Has it been long enough since the fire that it's a moot point? The supply chain is already feeling it? ETA: Jeez-0-Flip, I just looked it up. It's like the Alpha grease. It does not mention high-temperature applications in the two articles I read. But CV joints get pretty damn hot, I'm guessing. |
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Posted: 9/2/2021 11:21:53 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Holy crap! So....what should we buy a case of, so we have what we need? Like..WHY might we need the polyurea grease? Is it good for everything? Better than most other greases? The pinnacle of grease? Has it been long enough since the fire that it's a moot point? The supply chain is already feeling it? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: The largest producer of grease in the US burned down. And they were the primary supplier for polyurea grease in the US. About 40% of total grease capacity in the US. Holy crap! So....what should we buy a case of, so we have what we need? Like..WHY might we need the polyurea grease? Is it good for everything? Better than most other greases? The pinnacle of grease? Has it been long enough since the fire that it's a moot point? The supply chain is already feeling it? So the Mystik grease isn’t made by them. Don’t sweat it. Polyurea greases are extremely popular in two applications: Sealed for life. (Automotive, commercial, light duty, etc. ) Electric motors. (It has some natural dielectric properties.) John Deere uses it because: 1. Most people who buy Deere green, aren’t price concerned. 2. It’s very flexible in application. Meaning its for a wide temperature range, it can be used in most applications. 3. Once people start using it, they normally don’t want to switch (loss of sale) because of the complexity of grease. Pinnacle of grease? Eh. Maybe on the commercial side. Hard to really say. There’s some interesting technology there. But it’s just different. We’re seeing a lot of fall out still. Inventory is still being worked through. But there’s been some major shortages of greases - especially in bulk uses. (Steel mills, aluminum extrusion, etc.) and you’ll see a lot of “off brands” or store brands just disappear. If you buy a polyurea grease already - Id probably stock some up. I’m waiting to hear what my supplier is going to do. But other wise I wouldn’t sweat it if you’re on a lithium grease in tubes. |
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Posted: 9/2/2021 11:26:57 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: So the Mystik grease isn’t made by them. Don’t sweat it. Polyurea greases are extremely popular in two applications: Sealed for life. (Automotive, commercial, light duty, etc. ) Electric motors. (It has some natural dielectric properties.) John Deere uses it because: 1. Most people who buy Deere green, aren’t price concerned. 2. It’s very flexible in application. Meaning its for a wide temperature range, it can be used in most applications. 3. Once people start using it, they normally don’t want to switch (loss of sale) because of the complexity of grease. Pinnacle of grease? Eh. Maybe on the commercial side. Hard to really say. There’s some interesting technology there. But it’s just different. We’re seeing a lot of fall out still. Inventory is still being worked through. But there’s been some major shortages of greases - especially in bulk uses. (Steel mills, aluminum extrusion, etc.) and you’ll see a lot of “off brands” or store brands just disappear. If you buy a polyurea grease already - Id probably stock some up. I’m waiting to hear what my supplier is going to do. But other wise I wouldn’t sweat it if you’re on a lithium grease in tubes. Your world is interesting, and like all specialty worlds, has a lot of subtleties, which I find fascinating (writer here )One of my mowers has spindles that require no grease, so "greased for life" I suppose. This suggests that the manufacturer may have issues, and if I bust a spindle, it *might* be more expensive hereafter. Interesting. |
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Posted: 9/3/2021 12:24:05 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Your world is interesting, and like all specialty worlds, has a lot of subtleties, which I find fascinating (writer here )One of my mowers has spindles that require no grease, so "greased for life" I suppose. This suggests that the manufacturer may have issues, and if I bust a spindle, it *might* be more expensive hereafter. Interesting. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: So the Mystik grease isn’t made by them. Don’t sweat it. Polyurea greases are extremely popular in two applications: Sealed for life. (Automotive, commercial, light duty, etc. ) Electric motors. (It has some natural dielectric properties.) John Deere uses it because: 1. Most people who buy Deere green, aren’t price concerned. 2. It’s very flexible in application. Meaning its for a wide temperature range, it can be used in most applications. 3. Once people start using it, they normally don’t want to switch (loss of sale) because of the complexity of grease. Pinnacle of grease? Eh. Maybe on the commercial side. Hard to really say. There’s some interesting technology there. But it’s just different. We’re seeing a lot of fall out still. Inventory is still being worked through. But there’s been some major shortages of greases - especially in bulk uses. (Steel mills, aluminum extrusion, etc.) and you’ll see a lot of “off brands” or store brands just disappear. If you buy a polyurea grease already - Id probably stock some up. I’m waiting to hear what my supplier is going to do. But other wise I wouldn’t sweat it if you’re on a lithium grease in tubes. Your world is interesting, and like all specialty worlds, has a lot of subtleties, which I find fascinating (writer here )One of my mowers has spindles that require no grease, so "greased for life" I suppose. This suggests that the manufacturer may have issues, and if I bust a spindle, it *might* be more expensive hereafter. Interesting. Oem manufacturing is certainly facing grease shortages. And general product shortages. The same facility made a lot of metal working fluids and metal working fluid additives. There’s actually be a huge crunch this entire year so far on oil products. |
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Posted: 9/12/2021 11:33:32 AM EDT
[#25]
I couldn’t find the Mystic locally so hopefully my substitute isn’t bad. I ended up with Shell Rotella red HD and will load this in my new dewalt grease gun. I believe this the first time I’ve ever been excited about any maintenance. I will hit the bush hog and mower spindles first.
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Posted: 9/12/2021 2:00:39 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: I've been asked by several members - mostly in General discussions - to just do an AMA thread about fuels / lubricants. Kind of consolidation for "Hey fox, what do you think about XYZ" - I don't particularly want to do it in GD. I'm not super active in cars and bikes. But there's a lot not a ton of info out there easy to get to cross reference lubricants for tractors / equipment / etc. and this is sort of my area of expertise as I have everything from 1940s tractors and bulldozers to brand new equipment. I'm open to doing it in this forum because I'm active here. Thoughts? Plus this is kind of an OST.
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Posted: 9/16/2021 8:49:30 AM EDT
[#27]
@Foxtrot08
What are your thoughts on amsoil products. On a different form I visit it is mentioned in hushed, reverent tones. Thanks |
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Posted: 9/16/2021 3:29:55 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Deuskid: @Foxtrot08 What are your thoughts on amsoil products. On a different form I visit it is mentioned in hushed, reverent tones. Thanks Meh. There's nothing really 'bad' about their products. I had a number of meetings with their industrial side, however their full synthetic industrial products don't do anything that my other brands I already carry do. So I would have 0 volume with them, plus in the industrial world - Summit/Klubber, Quaker-Houghton, etc. are better known. On the passenger car / retail side of things... Amsoil is just another blender, but with a 'sorta' well known brand. Their products are fine. But their method of going to market is... bad. This is why I call it 'scamsoil' - It's a pyramid scheme. IF you buy 10 cases YOU TOOO CAN BECOME A DISTRIBUTOR! SAVE MONEY! SELL TO YOUR FRIENDS! Yeah, it's the same sort of scheme you see the suburban house wives getting into with LEVL or whatever make up of the month... Just for men. So, I don't support them because of that. Not because they have bad products. |
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Posted: 9/16/2021 4:40:07 PM EDT
[#29]
^
Thanks, good to know. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 9/24/2021 8:48:19 PM EDT
[#30]
If this is the Foxtrot08 AMA thread, then howabout break-in oils?
I saw this test: https://www.speediagnostix.com/totalseal and was wondering which oil you would recommend for a rebuilt big block mopar with a flat tappet solid lifter cam and low tension rings. Also, would a break-in oil help for a new generator? Thanks |
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Posted: 9/24/2021 9:49:02 PM EDT
[#31]
@foxtrot08
A couple weeks ago, I needed grease and bought Mystik JT6 because I remember you recommending it. Although I couldn’t remember which one you recommended at the time. I thought I was doing good by buying the synthetic blend JT6. Since then, there was the GD thread about the base oil viscosity and then I found this thread. The synthetic blend JT6 has a base oil viscosity of only 70. Is this a trash product for general purpose grease for things like auto chassis, u joints, lawn mower, etc? |
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Posted: 9/24/2021 10:02:05 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BossMaverick: @foxtrot08 A couple weeks ago, I needed grease and bought Mystik JT6 because I remember you recommending it. Although I couldn’t remember which one you recommended at the time. I thought I was doing good by buying the synthetic blend JT6. Since then, there was the GD thread about the base oil viscosity and then I found this thread. The synthetic blend JT6 has a base oil viscosity of only 70. Is this a trash product for general purpose grease for things like auto chassis, u joints, lawn mower, etc? Absolutely, it will be fine. It’s still GC-LB rated for automotive bearings. The synthetic blend base oil will stay thicker, longer essentially. It has more of a curve in the viscosity chart. That being said, that grease is designed for cold weather performance. So it’s naturally better in northern states. But for everything you described, it will be fine. Especially if you grease regularly. If you were using it in a jackhammer on an excavator- not so much. |
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Posted: 9/24/2021 10:04:19 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TemperMental: If this is the Foxtrot08 AMA thread, then howabout break-in oils? I saw this test: https://www.speediagnostix.com/totalseal and was wondering which oil you would recommend for a rebuilt big block mopar with a flat tappet solid lifter cam and low tension rings. Also, would a break-in oil help for a new generator? Thanks For the rebuilt big block - assuming it’s not got a super charger strapped on to it or such - Redline racing oil - 10w30 probably would be my flavor of choice. Or 5w30. Break in oil for generator - nah. Run it for a few hours, change the oil. That’s all I’ve ever done. No need to put an actual break in oil additive or specialty break in oil at first anymore. Just run it for 5-10 hours. Change it. |
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Posted: 9/24/2021 10:48:57 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Absolutely, it will be fine. It’s still GC-LB rated for automotive bearings. The synthetic blend base oil will stay thicker, longer essentially. It has more of a curve in the viscosity chart. That being said, that grease is designed for cold weather performance. So it’s naturally better in northern states. But for everything you described, it will be fine. Especially if you grease regularly. If you were using it in a jackhammer on an excavator- not so much. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By BossMaverick: @foxtrot08 A couple weeks ago, I needed grease and bought Mystik JT6 because I remember you recommending it. Although I couldn’t remember which one you recommended at the time. I thought I was doing good by buying the synthetic blend JT6. Since then, there was the GD thread about the base oil viscosity and then I found this thread. The synthetic blend JT6 has a base oil viscosity of only 70. Is this a trash product for general purpose grease for things like auto chassis, u joints, lawn mower, etc? Absolutely, it will be fine. It’s still GC-LB rated for automotive bearings. The synthetic blend base oil will stay thicker, longer essentially. It has more of a curve in the viscosity chart. That being said, that grease is designed for cold weather performance. So it’s naturally better in northern states. But for everything you described, it will be fine. Especially if you grease regularly. If you were using it in a jackhammer on an excavator- not so much. Thanks for the response. I live in the frozen north and grease often, so I’ll stick with it until I run out. That’s unless it turns my grease guns into the Exxon Valdez like Mobil 1 grease does. I’m not putting up with that anymore. |
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Posted: 9/24/2021 10:50:44 PM EDT
[#35]
Linking my thread in GD as it is relevant and not everyone here may know about it. That's how I found out about this thread.
https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Importance-of-base-oil-viscosity-in-grease/5-2490240/?r=-1&page=1&anc=95003432#i95003432 |
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Posted: 9/25/2021 5:41:58 PM EDT
[#36]
I'll have you guys know, y'all are a bunch of bad influencers.
Especially @Kitties-with-Sigs, she absolutely cannot be trusted under any circumstances. Now I need to explain to my wife why I spent the moolah on the Ryobi One+ grease gun. |
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Posted: 9/25/2021 7:42:23 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cucamelsmd15: I'll have you guys know, y'all are a bunch of bad influencers. Especially @Kitties-with-Sigs, she absolutely cannot be trusted under any circumstances. Now I need to explain to my wife why I spent the moolah on the Ryobi One+ grease gun. Ya this thread caused me to buy a dewalt gun since that’s already the system I was using. For the first time ever greasing the tractor and implements was fun. I even went and hit all the zerks on the Jeep. |
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Posted: 9/25/2021 9:28:54 PM EDT
[#38]
I bought a $40 grease coupling that practically jumps on and off the alemite and doesn’t leak or seep…it’s amazing. I still can’t believe I paid that for it. My hands are clean and no grease gets blasted all around the fitting…
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074WKSS8L?tag=arfcom00-20 |
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Posted: 10/6/2021 10:02:00 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cucamelsmd15: I'll have you guys know, y'all are a bunch of bad influencers. Especially @Kitties-with-Sigs, she absolutely cannot be trusted under any circumstances. Now I need to explain to my wife why I spent the moolah on the Ryobi One+ grease gun. |
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Posted: 10/6/2021 10:13:12 PM EDT
[#40]
Put a LockNLube grease fitting coupler on all your grease guns. I have several grease guns from Harbor Freight and all now have a LockNLube coupler. No more problems loosing prime or getting a new cartridge started.
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Posted: 10/7/2021 11:38:52 AM EDT
[#41]
@Foxtrot08
I just bought a Roxor and it calls for 80-90 gl-4 for some of the gear boxes and gl-5 for some of the others. Is there that much difference? Is it possible to standardize and just buy one gl? Thanks |
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Posted: 10/7/2021 12:16:43 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Deuskid: @Foxtrot08 I just bought a Roxor and it calls for 80-90 gl-4 for some of the gear boxes and gl-5 for some of the others. Is there that much difference? Is it possible to standardize and just buy one gl? Thanks This is really the lubrication question of the decade really. So the back story: GL5 has approximately 100% more EP additive than GL4. However, GL4 is “yellow metal” safe - bronze, brass, etc. and GL5 - sometimes - is not. There are “yellow metal” safe GL5s - supposedly. There are absolutely some applications where you have to use GL4 because there’s some other specifications. Like for example some tractor hydraulic oils are GL4. Manual transmission fluids are often time 80w90 GL4s. So your differential is probably GL5. Your manual transmission is probably GL4. In which case I’d use different products. |
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Posted: 10/7/2021 12:44:28 PM EDT
[#43]
To add to what Foxtrot said (because I see the used oil side of things), a lot of synchro/manual gearboxes are still made with brass synchros and brass engagement cones. Not to mention bearings. It manifests itself in analysis as copper, and to a lesser extent tin and lead.
EP in GL5 liberates copper from brass at a rate that increases with temperature. In almost every case, and I'm looking at one analysis report right now, GL5 EP oil causes brass components to corrode and in turn causes high copper and aforementioned lead and tin readings to be elevated. Subsequently, one of the first questions to the customer our analysts ask is to verify the oil type at time of sample. Gearbox gears are subject to magnitudes less torque and pressure than a differential gearset is, which is by design. I am not shy about changing viscosity on engine oil (which is another entire topic in and of itself) but gearboxes are more fickle and IMO, one place you should absolutely stick with manufacturers spec. |
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Posted: 10/7/2021 5:24:06 PM EDT
[#44]
^
Thanks to you both. Very helpful to have your expertise.  |
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Posted: 10/7/2021 7:37:39 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Deuskid: ^ Thanks to you both. Very helpful to have your expertise. To add to what Foxtrot0 and cucamelsmd15, I'll share my anecdotal experience. I have a manual transmission car and changed the gear oil with synthetic of the correct weight and specification. Shortly after I noticed that I was having some minor issues with shifts not being as smooth as before, almost felt like a "clanking" if you will. I drained that and used the manufacturer's gear oil and after a short time the issues went away. I don't know if the synthetic was too good at lubricating and the syncros didn't get enough "bite" or what happened, but obviously the manufacturer's gear oil didn't have those issues. My point is, if the manufacturer sells a gear oil I'd use that every time based on my own experience. If they don't then definitely what they specify including if they recommend synthetic or against it. |
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Posted: 10/7/2021 9:48:34 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By A_G: To add to what Foxtrot0 and cucamelsmd15, I'll share my anecdotal experience. I have a manual transmission car and changed the gear oil with synthetic of the correct weight and specification. Shortly after I noticed that I was having some minor issues with shifts not being as smooth as before, almost felt like a "clanking" if you will. I drained that and used the manufacturer's gear oil and after a short time the issues went away. I don't know if the synthetic was too good at lubricating and the syncros didn't get enough "bite" or what happened, but obviously the manufacturer's gear oil didn't have those issues. My point is, if the manufacturer sells a gear oil I'd use that every time based on my own experience. If they don't then definitely what they specify including if they recommend synthetic or against it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By A_G: Originally Posted By Deuskid: ^ Thanks to you both. Very helpful to have your expertise. To add to what Foxtrot0 and cucamelsmd15, I'll share my anecdotal experience. I have a manual transmission car and changed the gear oil with synthetic of the correct weight and specification. Shortly after I noticed that I was having some minor issues with shifts not being as smooth as before, almost felt like a "clanking" if you will. I drained that and used the manufacturer's gear oil and after a short time the issues went away. I don't know if the synthetic was too good at lubricating and the syncros didn't get enough "bite" or what happened, but obviously the manufacturer's gear oil didn't have those issues. My point is, if the manufacturer sells a gear oil I'd use that every time based on my own experience. If they don't then definitely what they specify including if they recommend synthetic or against it. Nah. Base oils won’t do that. Friction modifiers will. Chances are the synthetic that you used didn’t have the proper friction modifier additive package in it. Typically because gear oils are designed for diffs that don’t need the friction modifiers. Manual transmission fluids will have them as they’re needed. This is why for example, redline has separate diff fluids and manual transmission fluids. A lot of the new heavy duty transmission fluids, are spec’d specifically. Like the new Eaton 40w. |
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Posted: 10/7/2021 10:48:11 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Nah. Base oils won’t do that. Friction modifiers will. Chances are the synthetic that you used didn’t have the proper friction modifier additive package in it. Typically because gear oils are designed for diffs that don’t need the friction modifiers. Manual transmission fluids will have them as they’re needed. This is why for example, redline has separate diff fluids and manual transmission fluids. A lot of the new heavy duty transmission fluids, are spec’d specifically. Like the new Eaton 40w. Following along just for the education.. So.... Does the oil SAY ON IT what you just said...about having different friction modifiers or not? (meaning you can read the container and understand what you need to know?) Or is it on the consumer to figure this stuff out, as the poster here is doing? |
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Posted: 10/7/2021 10:49:24 PM EDT
[#48]
Tempted to change the title to
"Foxtrot answers the lubrication question of the decade!!!!!" Okay I won't.
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Posted: 10/7/2021 11:06:17 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: No. Needle grease heads are literally... a needle. Button heads look like a button. So...the chainsaw bar grease fitting... That tiny dot on the end of the bar that doesn't seem like anything, but is in fact something important.... Yeah. It demands a little syringe that seems to attach to nothing and empty grease into a black-hole-like chasm. There is usually NO visible result or end to the greasing, so you never know for sure you have greased the thing sufficiently. (One time....ONE time....I saw grease coming out the little gear thingy in the end of the chainsaw bar. I thought I had crossed into the Grey Havens.) So...is there a way to use a battery greaser for this? Should we? Is there a better way than the little plastic syringe that costs a freaking (relative) fortune? (And is filled with grease in some mystic way so you must buy another little plastic syringe that costs a fortune once you run the first one dry cuz you annot refill)????? |
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Posted: 10/7/2021 11:38:23 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Nah. Base oils won’t do that. Friction modifiers will. Chances are the synthetic that you used didn’t have the proper friction modifier additive package in it. Typically because gear oils are designed for diffs that don’t need the friction modifiers. Manual transmission fluids will have them as they’re needed. This is why for example, redline has separate diff fluids and manual transmission fluids. A lot of the new heavy duty transmission fluids, are spec’d specifically. Like the new Eaton 40w. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By A_G: Originally Posted By Deuskid: ^ Thanks to you both. Very helpful to have your expertise. To add to what Foxtrot0 and cucamelsmd15, I'll share my anecdotal experience. I have a manual transmission car and changed the gear oil with synthetic of the correct weight and specification. Shortly after I noticed that I was having some minor issues with shifts not being as smooth as before, almost felt like a "clanking" if you will. I drained that and used the manufacturer's gear oil and after a short time the issues went away. I don't know if the synthetic was too good at lubricating and the syncros didn't get enough "bite" or what happened, but obviously the manufacturer's gear oil didn't have those issues. My point is, if the manufacturer sells a gear oil I'd use that every time based on my own experience. If they don't then definitely what they specify including if they recommend synthetic or against it. Nah. Base oils won’t do that. Friction modifiers will. Chances are the synthetic that you used didn’t have the proper friction modifier additive package in it. Typically because gear oils are designed for diffs that don’t need the friction modifiers. Manual transmission fluids will have them as they’re needed. This is why for example, redline has separate diff fluids and manual transmission fluids. A lot of the new heavy duty transmission fluids, are spec’d specifically. Like the new Eaton 40w. The part in red, exactly. It has been over 10 years since that experience and I forgot that the friction modifiers were the issue. In any event, I may pay more, but I'll go with the OEM oil in a transmission any time (I'm talking manual here, but even more so an automatic but not like modern automatics allow fluid changes). I did use Mobil 1 gear oil in my limited slip rear differential and didn't see any issues with that. In truth, this is all moot because I doubt I'll have a manual transmission car after this one, and like I said modern automatics don't even let the owner change the fluid. PEHV or full on electric will probably be my future. 
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