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The front discharge concrete trucks, they're faster. The driver can nose right in and point the truck exactly where the chute is going to go without having to back up to the jobsite. Makes "in and out" quicker. When that means both money in gas, wages for the driver etc. and against the ticking clock on the concrete setting. The downside to front-discharge trucks is that they generally need a much more custom-made body, frame, the rear cab for the engine etc. is all different and as such more expensive because there's less economy of scale. Rear discharge "traditional" cement trucks are cheaper because all the mixer barrel and chute gear etc. can just be bolted onto a standard truck body. View Quote |
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What is it with those concrete trucks? I saw those in KY and TN this summer, they are backwards from every truck I've seen in Texas where it unloads in the back. Is it just a regional thing or is there a legitimate reason why they use those there? View Quote I don't know how the drivers watched the discharge when it was at the rear actually. Kevin kept his eyes on AFC CONSTANTLY. It was like a symphony, with AFC as conductor, using his hands to signal when he wanted more or less, but it was so very subtle. Kevin caught every nuance. He never took his eyes off of AFC except when he was moving his truck. It was amazing. ETA: I got the sense that for Kevin, it was a challenge. Can I get to that? Hell I'm gonna get to that. Hell yeah, I'm gonna get to that. And he did. |
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The front discharge trucks I've used are also all wheel drive. View Quote I learned this from the gravel dump truck driver who was whining about having to back into my site. He was all like, "yeah the concrete guy did it but he has six-wheel drive"...grumble grumble grumble.. |
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We use them in Ohio due to them being way more useful. I can get a front discharge mixer to do just about anything. Rear discharge mixers have alot of limitations.
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Have you tried to price rough sawn planking from a local sawmill? This would be fresh cut and not kiln dried, so you would need to stack it and dry it for a while. Might be cheaper than other options. Other option would be to get a load of pine logs and hire someone with a portable bandsaw mill to come in and saw the logs into planks, again you have to air dry them.
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Have you tried to price rough sawn planking from a local sawmill? This would be fresh cut and not kiln dried, so you would need to stack it and dry it for a while. Might be cheaper than other options. Other option would be to get a load of pine logs and hire someone with a portable bandsaw mill to come in and saw the logs into planks, again you have to air dry them. View Quote It's a good idea and I think I will look into this. We have some Amish right down the road. They have portable mills. I wonder if they would do it. Hmmm...I wonder what kind of bug issues I might get into (if any) with this. Maybe no more than barnwood. |
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Coming along nicely.
You have a lot of fixtures there. More than I have in the basement of the new house |
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I may have missed it, but is the shed done, much further along than they posts, or are the updates nearly real time?
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I may have missed it, but is the shed done, much further along than they posts, or are the updates nearly real time? View Quote I posted that last late and I was tired. I see I got the wrong photo in there at a spot or two. I'll correct that when I get some time. I have one more post with the forms for the tub box and shower pan installed, but at that point, rain was coming, so I shoveled as much gravel as I could before dark, trying to keep the dirt from moving under the pipes and wrecking my slope, and there it sits. My yard is shin-deep mud right now. Won't be getting concrete this week because it keeps raining. |
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All these long posts have been catch up. They will now be shorter and more in real-time. I posted that last late and I was tired. I see I got the wrong photo in there at a spot or two. I'll correct that when I get some time. I have one more post with the forms for the tub box and shower pan installed, but at that point, rain was coming, so I shoveled as much gravel as I could before dark, trying to keep the dirt from moving under the pipes and wrecking my slope, and there it sits. My yard is shin-deep mud right now. Won't be getting concrete this week because it keeps raining. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I may have missed it, but is the shed done, much further along than they posts, or are the updates nearly real time? I posted that last late and I was tired. I see I got the wrong photo in there at a spot or two. I'll correct that when I get some time. I have one more post with the forms for the tub box and shower pan installed, but at that point, rain was coming, so I shoveled as much gravel as I could before dark, trying to keep the dirt from moving under the pipes and wrecking my slope, and there it sits. My yard is shin-deep mud right now. Won't be getting concrete this week because it keeps raining. |
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A little rock dust to go with your gravel will help you fine tune your angles. And rent a small skid steer to piss ant stuff around for a month or two. They are excellent when it comes time to landscape when your done. Other than that your looking great. Steel plumbers tape also helps to hold stuff with a strategic 2X4 and some sheet metal screws.
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Coming along nicely. You have a lot of fixtures there. More than I have in the basement of the new house View Quote Basically I'm building the infrastructure into the drain system so that I can do anything I want with this building in the future. the plumbing includes Toilet of course nice-size shower leg tub lavatory sink in a little kitchenette (mostly because I have this awesome sink with a drainboard that we pulled out of this olde house when we bought it. I've wanted it somewhere forever, so I'm putting it in for an "art sink" and making it a little kitchenette for guests, so they can make coffee, wash a coffee cup...be comfortable and have what they need.) washer stand pipe (with trap in wall) utility sink dog tub (this is basically an old cast iron tub (which I also pulled out of this house) built up on concrete blocks. We've always had a lot of animals, and baths in a regular tub break your back. I've wanted a dog tub forever. Now's my chance to build in the plumbing, though the dog tub may never actually happen.) Not all of that will go in immediately. Some of it may NEVER go in. But pvc is cheap, and since "OMG CONCRETE" there ain't no later, in my world. I have no plan to bust up this slab. |
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A little rock dust to go with your gravel will help you fine tune your angles. And rent a small skid steer to piss ant stuff around for a month or two. They are excellent when it comes time to landscape when your done. Other than that your looking great. Steel plumbers tape also helps to hold stuff with a strategic 2X4 and some sheet metal screws. View Quote Explain the 2 X 4 as stabilizer? ARe you saying drive a 2 X into the ground and use plumber's strapping and screws to hold the system in place? I can certainly see how that could be more stable than what I'm doing. Right now I'm using rebar and duck tape. But that only does so much. I've had a hell of a time with that long run over to the tub. It helped a little that I had to move where it met the bigger pipe, so I ended up with a coupler in the middle, which actually helped with the sag a little. But I've still had to build it up on "hard things"--pieces of concrete block, etc. I couldn't take my normal route of just shoving the drain end up higher because I was already fudging my contractor's orders to leave him 4" plus an inch of gravel, for 5" total, above the horizontal runs. So I was juggling a-needing to keep this as high as possible so that I don't have to lift to get to the septic. b-needing to keep it low enough that he has what he needs c-needing to get enough slope that even with a little settling in some spots, the system will still run. Rookie rough-in plumbers, raise your hand!!! *raises hand* |
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OH! @Rat_Patrol
I should add on the fixtures...it looks like a little more than it is maybe because I hard vent everything. I do not web vent. I do not fudge on the vents AT ALL. My shower was like two feet from my main stack. But I vented it. It's WAY overkill, but every house I've plumbed this way runs. It doesn't burp. It doesn't run slow. It doesn't back up. It runs like a freaking tank. I like plumbing that runs, so I do what has always worked for me. Not as cheap or quick, but there's usually a way to do it, so I do. Every fixture has its own vent. I'm a little worried about the tub vent, actually. It's basically level. Water COULD back up into it, and there would go my drain, since that fixture is far away from any other vent. But I don't have the height to raise the vent stub out, or I will be in the 4" pad. |
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I feel your pain on the rain. I was knee deep in mud and water in half of the trench when I was laying septic pipe from all the rains. So much fun.. View Quote I was looking at that, but I would have to go all the way up to six inch, then back down to meet the schedule 40 going into my septic, so it didn't make sense over the span of a hundred feet. I've never used the green. |
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@SparkyD .. Explain the 2 X 4 as stabilizer? ARe you saying drive a 2 X into the ground and use plumber's strapping and screws to hold the system in place? I can certainly see how that could be more stable than what I'm doing. Right now I'm using rebar and duck tape. But that only does so much. I've had a hell of a time with that long run over to the tub. It helped a little that I had to move where it met the bigger pipe, so I ended up with a coupler in the middle, which actually helped with the sag a little. But I've still had to build it up on "hard things"--pieces of concrete block, etc. I couldn't take my normal route of just shoving the drain end up higher because I was already fudging my contractor's orders to leave him 4" plus an inch of gravel, for 5" total, above the horizontal runs. So I was juggling a-needing to keep this as high as possible so that I don't have to lift to get to the septic. b-needing to keep it low enough that he has what he needs c-needing to get enough slope that even with a little settling in some spots, the system will still run. Rookie rough-in plumbers, raise your hand!!! *raises hand* View Quote |
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Does the green pipe go in the same way as schedule 40? I was looking at that, but I would have to go all the way up to six inch, then back down to meet the schedule 40 going into my septic, so it didn't make sense over the span of a hundred feet. I've never used the green. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I feel your pain on the rain. I was knee deep in mud and water in half of the trench when I was laying septic pipe from all the rains. So much fun.. I was looking at that, but I would have to go all the way up to six inch, then back down to meet the schedule 40 going into my septic, so it didn't make sense over the span of a hundred feet. I've never used the green. |
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It's been a long week. You're gonna have to type a little more. Where and what for? @ar-jedi View Quote 10 feet of 3/4" conduit is what, $2.60 a length at home depot? (link) you already are elbow deep in solvent cement so no extra cost there. power, security video, alarm wiring, etc etc just star run it out from your mechanical/electrical meeting point. stub it up, tape it off, pour your mud, and wait for a rainy day 6 months later... |
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in 6 months you are going to think to yourself, "damn, i wish i had feature X at location Y." 10 feet of 3/4" conduit is what, $2.60 a length at home depot? (link) you already are elbow deep in solvent cement so no extra cost there. power, security video, alarm wiring, etc etc just star run it out from your mechanical/electrical meeting point. stub it up, tape it off, pour your mud, and wait for a rainy day 6 months later... http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/32013-1/DSCN7230.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/32028-1/DSCN7233.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/31908-1/DSCN7254.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/31943-1/DSCN7258.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/31887-1/DSCN7260.JPG View Quote The photo with the pipes sticking up out of the concrete.. Explain what that's for? I am still at the point of saying, "How the eff am I going to get electric to this building?" So although all the things you've mentioned have crossed my mind, I have no plan. If I need to put it in before the concrete, I have exactly two days to get my shit together. Explain it to your four year old. That'll help at this point. I'm going...it's plastic conduit...how will I get whatever I want through it???? Do I run fish tape through it NOW, and leave it sticking out each end? Or waht??? |
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vacuum, plastic bag to pull string through later.
and it depends on if electric will be buried or above ground. you can always run coduit up the outside in to a panel, its just uglier. edit. If your footings are already in not so easy |
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okay, so if that's the stage you are at, you could put bent conduit in from the outside to where you electrical panel is to avoid having an exterior run, and put a couple extra for data etc.
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Thanks!!! Regarding the conduit. It's nice to have it under the slab if you have a long run from the panel box to the far end of the building. In some cases, the ceiling joists are perpendicular to where we want to run the wire so it can save a lot of drilling of the joists. It's also nice if there are high vaulted ceilings so the wire doesn't have to be run up to the peak and back down. Saves on wire, labor and maybe some voltage drop, depends on the building. Congrats getting the plumbing done. It's going to feel good when they pour the slab. |
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It's pretty cool. When I was taught that I was in awe! Regarding the conduit. It's nice to have it under the slab if you have a long run from the panel box to the far end of the building. In some cases, the ceiling joists are perpendicular to where we want to run the wire so it can save a lot of drilling of the joists. It's also nice if there are high vaulted ceilings so the wire doesn't have to be run up to the peak and back down. Saves on wire, labor and maybe some voltage drop, depends on the building. Congrats getting the plumbing done. It's going to feel good when they pour the slab. View Quote |
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I'm hoping you come up with some great value engineered siding options. My garage project gets house wrapped next week and I need ideas It's probably going to sit that way until spring. View Quote Did your garage get wrapped? Or have y'all had too much rain? (We've had rain. And rain. Aaaaand rain.) |
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KwS, got your IM, i thought i'd answer here since others might be interested, but at the same time i'm hesitant to clutter up your thread. "Begin at the beginning," the King said, very gravely, "and go on till you come to the end: then stop." for any outbuilding there are a variety of utilities which may be routed in. these might include power, water, networking, etc. and, as you have already plumbed, for any water going in you need to handle the reverse direction as well. in my case the outbuilding is a 1930's carriage house converted to a garage with a "bonus room" upstairs. when i arrived on the scene it had only power and cold water supplied to it, and the latter was leaking underground due to the use of cast iron pipe and insufficient burial depth. meanwhile, there was actually no grey or black water sewer piping anywhere to be found. trouble here in the northeast starts because building code for a water supply is 42" below grade. in practice, anything less than about 36" and you are risking not having water in February and a leaking pipe in March. hence a supply pipe run between the house and the garage has to be pretty deep, and it has to come into the structure through the foundation and into a space which will not drop below 32'F. meanwhile i also needed a sewer route back out, because i wanted more than just a sink upstairs in the loft room. all of this utility work was intermingled with the pouring of a new floor area. the way the carriage house was constructed, there was only flatwork (a slab) under 2/3'rds of the building. the remaining 1/3 had a plank wood floor laid on 2x6 (nominal) joists which in turn supported was by hope and dreams. i've left out the parts which had me thinking of an "accidental" structural fire -- namely, about 87 million termites. luckily, they had drilled horizontally across the plank flooring, compromising the floor joists but leaving the studs and such in pretty good shape. so the entirety of the wooden floor mess went into a dumpster. the Termite Terminator man came and did his thing, with extreme prejudice. in the middle of the first floor of this structure, which by your mind should mean "near the back of the garage", is a mechanical room. it houses a small natural gas furnace and that's about it. this mechanical room was a natural place to terminate all of the piping and new wiring coming into the building. it's tight, as it is wedged somewhat under the stairs that take you up to the loft. there is a separate, existing 100A power feed in dedicated conduit. i did not have to touch this, nor did i need to. so, from the prospective of power, i was done before i started. but, i needed water in, conduit in, and sewer out. the three 1" dia pieces of conduit would carry a mix of a) FIOS [coax], b) CAT6 LAN/alarm, and c) spare tbd. the water, the water. i needed water, true. i also wanted hot water. did i mention the shower upstairs? so the initial plan was to bring a cold supply, and then heat it up. there are two good ways to do that: a) natural gas fired water heater, or b) on-demand electric water heater heater (Bosch etc). the former would require a new vent and a new hole in the roof (which was two stories up). the latter requires a lot of current from the electrical panel in the house, and it's a ~40 foot run. neither of the above solutions are all that inexpensive. the more i thought about it, the more i thought that it wasn't *that* far... ~40 feet between the house water heater and the garage mechanical room, and then another 10-12' feet up to the shower. if my carriage house overnight guests could wait 30-45 seconds for hot water i could save at least $1000 in capital expenditures and in the case of the water heater solution i would not be keeping 30(?) gallons of water hot 24x7. i researched insulated PEX just for the hell of it. people with outdoor wood-fired boilers use it all the time. it's not cheap, in fact it's like $12/ft. i have a brother in law who is a master plumber. i tell him my idea about running hot water from the house. he says it will work. i tell him there is this expensive insulated PEX. he says that's overkill. he says what he would do it put 1-1/2" black poly pipe in end-to-end as a "conduit", and then reeve 3/4" PEX through it. the air gap will provide some insulation, and well if anything goes wrong you can always pull the PEX back out and put a new length in. i liked this plan then and i like it even more now. so, coming from the house to the garage/carriage house, in vertical order from shallowest to deepest, grass topsoil backfill red marker tape sand 3 x 1" conduit sand 4" sewer line sand 2 x 1-1/2" black poly 200psi pipe (this is down 42") sand trench bottom each of these passes through the foundation wall well below grade. in the carriage house, it comes in horizontally where the wooden floor was taken out, and was supported for the pour. the concrete work finished, the studs for the mechanical room were stood up and the pipes magically appear stubbed up in the right place. the furnace "latent heat" keeps the mechanical room toasty during the winter months (the garage area itself is unheated but insulated; only the living area upstairs is heated.) a couple of notes for you: -- aesthetics-wise, bringing the electrical conduit in through the foundation wall and up & into the structure via conduit looks much better than using conduit and an LB on an exterior wall. this is one reason i suggested putting NM conduit in your slab. -- always run spare conduit in a trench. conduit is so cheap, while digging is expensive and hard and messy. run spare conduit. it's $2.50 per 10 feet! even if you leave the ends sealed and buried near the house, it's always there waiting for you. -- if the house is reasonably close, you don't need a separate water heater in the outbuilding. you may have to wait an extra 10 seconds for hot water. you could also plumb a hot water circulation loop, but IMHO that is gross overkill. -- when you penetrate the foundation you must sleeve the penetration with a length of schedule 80 PVC. mortar the sleeve in place, put the conduit, pipe, or whatever through, and then use plenty of silicone caulk on both ends. i could go on and on but only you know what you want/need/etc. ps i will feel better if you give me credit for a) saving the old dutch door, and b) swapping the hinge side. i could not save the old green door, however. ar-jedi http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/31196-1/DSCN7145.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/31146-1/DSCN7152.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/32013-1/DSCN7230.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/31918-1/DSCN7243.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/31928-1/DSCN7251.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/31913-1/DSCN7259.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/33093-1/DSCN7322.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/32978-1/DSCN7346.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/33013-1/DSCN7345.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/33753-1/DSCN7449.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/33818-1/DSCN7450.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/33623-1/DSCN7453.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/33941-1/DSCN7510.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/33948-1/DSCN7511.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34431-1/DSCN7653.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34688-1/DSCN7752.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/35135-1/DSCN7870.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/35177-1/DSCN7873.JPG ps http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36436-1/DSCN8094.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36439-1/DSCN8082.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36738-1/DSCN8173.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36935-1/DSCN8223.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36944-1/DSCN8226.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/40391-2/DSCN8614.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/40501-2/IMG_0355.JPG http://ziva.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/40383-2/DSCN8619.JPG View Quote The blue tape makes me ask this. I'm assuming you just applied the finish. ETA: Nothing you post of this sort will EVER be considered as clutter in one of MY threads. Thank you. |
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@Handydave Did your garage get wrapped? Or have y'all had too much rain? (We've had rain. And rain. Aaaaand rain.) View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I'm hoping you come up with some great value engineered siding options. My garage project gets house wrapped next week and I need ideas It's probably going to sit that way until spring. Did your garage get wrapped? Or have y'all had too much rain? (We've had rain. And rain. Aaaaand rain.) I noticed a few places where the nails were badly overdriven & others where the osb is bulging a little where fasteners were missed. If the place is just wrapped by my insulation company I'll have to deal with those issues by removing the wrap when the time comes to install siding. If I go ahead with my siding the siding guys correct any framing issues as they go. I saved a ton of money on the framing so the small issues are worth it, and I could wrap the thing 10 times and still come out ahead cost wise, but still trying to economize as best as possible. Thank you for asking. |
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It's been raining for the past five days. My back yard is a mud pit. I think we didn't get any rain today (I was out of town) but it will take a bit for the yard to dry out, which means NO concrete this week. But.. AFC called last week and said, "hey, I need to ask a favor. I've got this load of concrete I could bring to you for fill instead of taking it to the dump." Me: OH HELLZ TO THE YEAH. I'd just paid $430 for a load of gravel. I'd like to not do that as a regular thing, yaknow? So later that evening, I heard some crashing and banging in the back yard. He was dumping this. http://www.fototime.com/2827A62C16A1C94/standard.jpg It was part of a driveway he'd torn out as part of a contract to correct a drainage issue (as in, water was draining into a person's house instead of the other direction) I would actually like to have two MORE loads of it, and know how to use the trackhoe, because I would take those pieces and turn them into landscaping. a-an awesome path through the yard to the new "barn" b-the most awesome terraced walls in the universe. Yup. But I'm not getting any of that. He will bust that up and put it inside the block walls for fill, so I don't have to buy so much gravel. View Quote See if you can get any washout from the concrete yard. My local concrete yard separates the washout into 2 piles. One pile is what they call the good stuff, which resembles crush and run. The other pile they call fill, which is all the fines. If it's been rainy a lot, it's mostly like pudding and will actually flow in a ditch and won't grade at all. If it's fairly dry, it's more like dirt. The wet stuff will eventually setup but takes weeks. You have to take some of the fill to get the good stuff but it saved me a lot of $$ on my job. I just had to pay hauling at $80 hr which averaged about $50 per load of fill/ gravel over 30 trucks or so. |
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Seeing you post the gravel costs reminded me about what my hauling guy turned me onto. See if you can get any washout from the concrete yard. My local concrete yard separates the washout into 2 piles. One pile is what they call the good stuff, which resembles crush and run. The other pile they call fill, which is all the fines. If it's been rainy a lot, it's mostly like pudding and will actually flow in a ditch and won't grade at all. If it's fairly dry, it's more like dirt. The wet stuff will eventually setup but takes weeks. You have to take some of the fill to get the good stuff but it saved me a lot of $ on my job. I just had to pay hauling at $80 hr which averaged about $50 per load of fill/ gravel over 30 trucks or so. View Quote |
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Did you build the new door (to replace the green door) yourself? The blue tape makes me ask this. I'm assuming you just applied the finish. ETA: Nothing you post of this sort will EVER be considered as clutter in one of MY threads. Thank you. View Quote the company involved is one of the premier custom wood door builders here on the east coast. if you don't do anything stupid, that door will last >100 years. production finishing is quite expensive due to many factors; application requires a lot of dust-free floorspace, a lot of time, the EPA, etc. hence i elected to finish the door on site. Sikkens Cetol 1 + 2/3 in natural was selected, and i killed a fair amount of brain cells in the process of setting it down. this was actually my third door finishing job (there are matching doors on my mini workshop/shed building), so i was already nearly out of brain cells. to your other question regarding the conduit routing... somewhere you are going to bring power (and perhaps coax and CAT5/6) into the structure. (you can't run them in the same conduit btw). from that point, lay some conduit in before you pour, and just "fan out" the conduit to a few places which it might come in handy to have power or coax or lan or whatever. it will be much much much easier to pull the wire through the under-slab conduit in 12 months versus trying to fish it through finished walls. ar-jedi |
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No underground bunker/bomb shelter? . How do you hide your ICBM in case you have to take on the Norks on your own?
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My dad is having his concrete driveway replaced. It's all cracked up, but still in big chunks. He's gonna take it up in pieces with his tractor and bring it to work, plenty good enough to park tractors, trailers on. Bases for smaller gravel driveway areas.
Plastic conduit is cheap. Make a basic plan and stub it in now. Leave a string in it so you can pull wire later. Always go bigger. I let my dad talk me into laying two 1/2 inch lines for 2 - 200ft burial cat5e lines because we had tons of 1/2 inch line laying around. I wanted one 2 inch. Now If I have to do anything else, we will have to dig it again. |
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Plastic conduit is cheap. Make a basic plan and stub it in now. Leave a string in it so you can pull wire later. Always go bigger. I let my dad talk me into laying two 1/2 inch lines for 2 - 200ft burial cat5e lines because we had tons of 1/2 inch line laying around. I wanted one 2 inch. Now If I have to do anything else, we will have to dig it again. View Quote |
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the door itself was built by professionals. the company involved is one of the premier custom wood door builders here on the east coast. if you don't do anything stupid, that door will last >100 years. production finishing is quite expensive due to many factors; application requires a lot of dust-free floorspace, a lot of time, the EPA, etc. hence i elected to finish the door on site. Sikkens Cetol 1 + 2/3 in natural was selected, and i killed a fair amount of brain cells in the process of setting it down. this was actually my third door finishing job (there are matching doors on my mini workshop/shed building), so i was already nearly out of brain cells. to your other question regarding the conduit routing... somewhere you are going to bring power (and perhaps coax and CAT5/6) into the structure. (you can't run them in the same conduit btw). from that point, lay some conduit in before you pour, and just "fan out" the conduit to a few places which it might come in handy to have power or coax or lan or whatever. it will be much much much easier to pull the wire through the under-slab conduit in 12 months versus trying to fish it through finished walls. ar-jedi View Quote Actually I was worried I couldn't even bury power and data in the same ditch. What is your knowledge of the shielding provided by conduit, and how far should the data lines be from the power cables? |
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