Posted: 6/17/2013 4:41:20 PM EDT
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I started my first garden from mostly lawn three years ago. I took pretty good care to measure my soil for pH level and N/P/K using one of the Rapitest kits. The first two years I got pH levels in the light green/pale yellow range which is right around 6.5 pH according to their scale.
At the end of last summer, I bought a probe type soil tester called a KCB-300. I used it in the fall but don't recall the readings now. I broke it out again this spring and in about 20 different areas in my garden I got soil pH levels around 4-5!! I figured that can't be right so I broke out the Rapitest pH kit and tested 3 spots and again got light green/pale yellow for around a 6.5 pH. Because the readings weren't agreeing, I bought some fresh pH capsules for the Rapitest kit and while I was at the store, I figured I'd pick up a different probe tester, also by Rapitest. The Rapitest probe tester gave reading between 6.3 and 7.0 in the numerous areas I tested, which coincides with the fresh capsule in the pH test kit. So I guess the lesson here is caveat emptor with the soil probes. Does anyone else care to share how they test soil for pH and/or nutrients? These two methods are all I know and I'd love to know if there are better ways to do it. Here is a pic with the two probes together: 
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| Going to try this out for the first time myself. Also I'm curious if there's a way to test for prior use of herbicides. My wife and I just bought a house and the area we want to use is currently just grass, so I'm wondering if there's a way I can test the soil to see if any weed killers were used so I don't put a bunch of plants in the ground and have them die because the previous owners used weed n' feed on the lawn. |
| Michigan State University will run your soil samples through their Soils Lab for $25. Just order their Soil Test Kit. Not sure if they do it for non-residents, but they probably do. One of the Minnesota universities may have a similar program too. |
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Pretty sure the UofM (Minnesota) has an office that'll do it but not sure the cost. I am primarily doing the self test kits to see if I can improve the general soil health myself for a few years and then I'll get one done at the U.
As far as testing for pesticides/herbicides no clue if any universities would do that. My pH has remained fairly constant outside of that bad probe tester and I've added a TON (more, literally) of organic material to loosen my slightly clay-leaning soil. Also, the self test kit said i was deficient in N/P/K the first year but it's now moved up a notch or two on their scale. I also can't dig more than an inch r two down without finding worms. |
| Your county agent can fix you up, or direct you to the right place ( nearest land grant college) . I have a very small commercial operation ( 10 acres) I have my chemical supplier conduct foliar and soil tests so I get it right. It costs me about 50 bucks a season to get this done. The tests go to a contracted lab, check who does it in your area. |
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Quoted:
no one tests their soil?? 
edit for spelling I asked about these probes earlier this spring I believe and didn't get much of a response. I didn't buy one as a result. I think I'll just guess at my pH for now... Quoted:
Going to try this out for the first time myself. Also I'm curious if there's a way to test for prior use of herbicides. My wife and I just bought a house and the area we want to use is currently just grass, so I'm wondering if there's a way I can test the soil to see if any weed killers were used so I don't put a bunch of plants in the ground and have them die because the previous owners used weed n' feed on the lawn. Most residuals (pesticides that kill via residue left in the soil) break down within a year or two (often times even faster than that). They also are much less effective on established plants. You should likely be good to go with anything but you may want to plant nursery plants the first year if you're worried. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
no one tests their soil??
edit for spelling I asked about these probes earlier this spring I believe and didn't get much of a response. I didn't buy one as a result. I think I'll just guess at my pH for now... Quoted:
Going to try this out for the first time myself. Also I'm curious if there's a way to test for prior use of herbicides. My wife and I just bought a house and the area we want to use is currently just grass, so I'm wondering if there's a way I can test the soil to see if any weed killers were used so I don't put a bunch of plants in the ground and have them die because the previous owners used weed n' feed on the lawn. Most residuals (pesticides that kill via residue left in the soil) break down within a year or two (often times even faster than that). They also are much less effective on established plants. You should likely be good to go with anything but you may want to plant nursery plants the first year if you're worried. Some of the longer acting chemicals like Atrazine and the like are good for a growing season or less. The most commonly used chemical at a home site is Roundup ( glyposate) which has a strong affinity to the soil / it bonds at a molecular level. Two days after using it you are good to plant. It specifically states this on the label . If there is grass growing you are good to go. |