Posted: 2/22/2009 3:13:22 PM EDT
|
I am looking to possibly raise either rabbits or chickens. Apparently rabbits produce a lot more meat, but obviously with chickens you get eggs. I don't have a whole lot of space, so that is an issue. I have heard chickens are loud, dirty and catch fleas (I have a dog that comes inside, so I don't want fleas).
Which would make more sense? I have no idea how dirty rabbits are or how much time it takes to care for either animal. Just looking for opinons and some good advice. Thanks. |
|
if space is an issue, you may not want rabbits, as their reproduction may get out of hand... any animal group that you have confined to a small space will get dirty/pest ridden with overcrowding, as you won't be able to keep up with the cleanliness of their quarters.
BUT if you plan on adding rabbit to your diet now, they do have the benefit of pelts. fresh eggs every morning sure is nice, though... also keep in mind that while you can eat egg chickens, there's a difference between them and "meat chickens." (yes, they all lay eggs and all give meat, but there are specializations...) read this about the various breeds and read this about keeping chickens good read about raising rabbits |
|
I am barely ahead of you. I am getting rabbits first, and possibly chickens later. I already have some rabbit cages put together, and almost all of the accoutrements. Get Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits and Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens. Both books will give you a better understanding of what you are about to undertake.
http://www.amazon.com/Storeys-Guide-Raising-Rabbits-Facilities/dp/1580172601/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1235358357&sr=1-1 Don't get a giant breed because they are leaner, and don't have a good meat to bone ratio. Get a large breed like New Zealand, Californian, Champagne D'Argent or even Standard Rex. The Champagne apparently has the highest meat to bone ratio. The Rex fur is a little nicer though. You are supposed to be able to get 4 or 5 pound broilers at about 8 to 10 weeks. I still have to get a few more minor things before I buy bunnies. The rabbit waste is great compost too... |
|
Quoted:
I am barely ahead of you. I am getting rabbits first, and possibly chickens later. I already have some rabbit cages put together, and almost all of the accoutrements. Get Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits and Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens. Both books will give you a better understanding of what you are about to undertake. http://www.amazon.com/Storeys-Guide-Raising-Rabbits-Facilities/dp/1580172601/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1235358357&sr=1-1 Don't get a giant breed because they are leaner, and don't have a good meat to bone ratio. Get a large breed like New Zealand, Californian, Champagne D'Argent or even Standard Rex. The Champagne apparently has the highest meat to bone ratio. The Rex fur is a little nicer though. You are supposed to be able to get 4 or 5 pound broilers at about 8 to 10 weeks. I still have to get a few more minor things before I buy bunnies. The rabbit waste is great compost too... Yeah, I was thinking about getting some New Zealand reds. I have an area for a raised hutch and could give them an additional 50 or 60 square ft of ground to run around on. I don't have a whole lot of time, so I would probably start with just one breeding pair and butcher and freeze the bunnies when they were 6-8 lbs. I still have some planning to do. Can you sell the fur anywhere? |
|
I'll speak up for the chickens.
I have 9 layers and spend about 15 minutes a day tending to them. I get about 7 eggs per day. The meat chickens might take a little more time depending on how many you are feeding. They eat, drink and poop a lot more than the layers. They are ready to eat in about 8 weeks and will dress out at 5 pounds. You can feed them a little longer and get an extra pound or 2 of meat but it takes too much feed at that point. YMMV backyardchickens.com is a great resource. I spent a lot of time there before I bought my first chickens. Unfortunately I wasn't born with this knowledge. Sounds like you wern't either. 
Do a little more research and see what fits your needs Shane |
|
Quoted:
if space is an issue, you may not want rabbits, as their reproduction may get out of hand... any animal group that you have confined to a small space will get dirty/pest ridden with overcrowding, as you won't be able to keep up with the cleanliness of their quarters. Ummm... You don't leave a buck in with the doe all the time - for a number of reasons. There will not be any uncontrolled breeding. You raise them in a wire cage about 3' off the ground. The pellets drop through the cage floor and you shovel them as needed. Try to avoid drafts in the rabbit barn, but don't let ammonia build up either. Periodically, take a propane torch and burn the excess rabbit hair off of the cage. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
if space is an issue, you may not want rabbits, as their reproduction may get out of hand... any animal group that you have confined to a small space will get dirty/pest ridden with overcrowding, as you won't be able to keep up with the cleanliness of their quarters. Ummm... You don't leave a buck in with the doe all the time - for a number of reasons. There will not be any uncontrolled breeding. You raise them in a wire cage about 3' off the ground. The pellets drop through the cage floor and you shovel them as needed. Try to avoid drafts in the rabbit barn, but don't let ammonia build up either. Periodically, take a propane torch and burn the excess rabbit hair off of the cage. true about bucks that you know are sexually mature, but young ones can mature faster than expected, especially if someone's new to bunnies. |
|
We never butchered Guineas, so I can't comment on their meat quality.
We did usually keep some around because they were nice to look at, were almost as good as a watchdog for making noise, and we thought they ate ticks. The eating ticks thing may have been an old wives tale. They also will sometimes kill snakes and will at least raise an alarm over it. ETA: Picture of Guinea for those who haven't seen one: 
|
|
Quoted:
We never butchered Guineas, so I can't comment on their meat quality. We did usually keep some around because they were nice to look at, were almost as good as a watchdog for making noise, and we thought they ate ticks. The eating ticks thing may have been an old wives tale. They also will sometimes kill snakes and will at least raise an alarm over it. ETA: Picture of Guinea for those who haven't seen one: http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh20/ignaci787/2007_guineas_chickens_052.jpg These are the ticket! Love them, best watchdogs and they will keep snakes away! |
|
I've had some African Grey geese in the past, and those things are great watchdogs. The ganders take no shit from anything or anyone.
We also had a sort of billy goat watchdog too. We ended up eating him though. He'd try to headbutt you everytime you went out to feed the other animals. It got tiresome. He challenged evrything. A big goat could ruin your day if you didn't know what to expect... We had free range chickens when I was growing up, but the local wildlife is hard on chickens. Snakes, raccoons, possums, hawks, feral dogs, etc. all love chickens too. Since I live in the city now, I don't have to contend with most of those things anymore (but there are coyotes in my neighborhood. and probably a fox or two). But, I can't hardly raise anyhting either. I'd love to have some pigs again... Rabbits are the way to go in the suburbs. |
|
I decided to start with chickens I ordered 28 one day old pullet from http://www.ideal-poultry.com/ they are scheduled to ship tomorrow.
5 Danish Brown Leghorn 6 Black Australorp 6 Amerucana 5 Blue Andalusian 6 Silver Kraienkoppe I assume I'll lose some before they start laying so I'm building a tractor dragable coop sized for 18-20 hens or maybe two chicken tractors sized for 10, they will be primarily free range but I plan on making feed available. I found plenty of good information on http://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/index.php good luck whatever you choose. |
|
Quoted:
I decided to start with chickens I ordered 28 one day old pullet from http://www.ideal-poultry.com/ they are scheduled to ship tomorrow. 5 Danish Brown Leghorn 6 Black Australorp 6 Amerucana 5 Blue Andalusian 6 Silver Kraienkoppe I assume I'll lose some before they start laying so I'm building a tractor dragable coop sized for 18-20 hens or maybe two chicken tractors sized for 10, they will be primarily free range but I plan on making feed available. I found plenty of good information on http://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/index.php good luck whatever you choose. That's a nice assortment there. You'll have a pretty big tractor if you build just one.......figuring 4 sq. ft. for each mature hen. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
I decided to start with chickens I ordered 28 one day old pullet from http://www.ideal-poultry.com/ they are scheduled to ship tomorrow. 5 Danish Brown Leghorn 6 Black Australorp 6 Amerucana 5 Blue Andalusian 6 Silver Kraienkoppe I assume I'll lose some before they start laying so I'm building a tractor dragable coop sized for 18-20 hens or maybe two chicken tractors sized for 10, they will be primarily free range but I plan on making feed available. I found plenty of good information on http://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/index.php good luck whatever you choose. That's a nice assortment there. You'll have a pretty big tractor if you build just one.......figuring 4 sq. ft. for each mature hen.  I was going with 3 sq. ft. per bird which is what seems to be the norm, either one 6' x 10' or two 4' x 8' with small runs attached. Either way the plan is to use my tractor to move the coop around my property so the hens can free range.
|
|
Quoted:
I was going with 3 sq. ft. per bird which is what seems to be the norm, either one 6' x 10' or two 4' x 8' with small runs attached. Either way the plan is to use my tractor to move the coop around my property so the hens can free range.Sorry, it's 4 sq. ft for large breeds......and that's just in the coop. Where are you getting 3 sq. ft? |
|
Quoted:
The book 'Backyard Livestock' for starters but I have seen it online as well, I've seen everything from 1.5' to 4' and figured I was safe following the book. You're not that far off in any case. If the chickens start to show signs of overcrowding, you can always build another tractor. 
|
|
Between Rabbits and Chickens......... I see it as two things.
A) Housing and care requirements B) Butchering/processing requirements Can anyone address part B? I had a bunch of chickens and recently sold/butchered them so we wouldn't have that maintenance while the spouse was pregnant and in preparation of newborn care (didn't want to neglect the birds so we sold and ate them). Rabbits sounds like a great alternative to chickens but aside from the daily care (feed/water) they require that chickens don't, what about butchering time? It was no problem at all wacking off the head of a stupid chicken, but is the "cute little bunny" thing hard to get past when it's killin time? |
|
to kill a rabbit u can hold it and snap its neck or hold it down and hit it with a board/bat. u have to think of them as food. when shtf u will be glade to have a food supply. to me rabbits seam a lot easyer to butcher then chickens. no plucking. and u get the hide to make things out of
stuck |
|
Quoted:
to kill a rabbit u can hold it and snap its neck or hold it down and hit it with a board/bat. u have to think of them as food. when shtf u will be glade to have a food supply. to me rabbits seam a lot easyer to butcher then chickens. no plucking. and u get the hide to make things out of stuck We didn't pluck the birds, just pulled them out of their Suit. My wife and I seem to find attachments to our mammals, but our birds.... We ate one of our ducks just because he was an overly horny devil and our ratio was not correct. I *think* I could get past the cute-n-furry but it's the daily feed care that won't let me buy any rabbits. If I had a very, very low cost automated system where they were basically worry free but for checking in on them once or twice a week, I'd buy in to it. |
|
I either hold the rabbit by the scruff and whack it on top the head with a stick, or just hold it by the back feet in my right hand, thumb and forefinger of left hand upside down at base of skull (rest back of skull on web of hand) while lifting up on feet and pushing down on head.l (you'll feel spine/skull pop)
Then I just make a small slit across the back, between shoulder blades (blade up) and insert two fingers from either hand under skin, and peel both back.Cut feet at joints, tail at base, head at neck.( I do it diffrently if saving pelt) Then pinch and lift belly skin, insert knife, again point up, and cut up clean thru ribs, turn and down towards vent.Then I nick diaphragm on eitehr side, insert two fingers, one on either side of entrails (head down) , and pull down. Then reinsert knife and cut from between legs thru to one side or the other of anus, and pop out the last little stub. Drop in cold water, and repeat. Took me WAY longer to type it than to do it. I usually do a couple litters at a time, then freeze in pack of 2. In another recent post I mentioned how I do chickens-both take only a minute or two, tops |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
We never butchered Guineas, so I can't comment on their meat quality. We did usually keep some around because they were nice to look at, were almost as good as a watchdog for making noise, and we thought they ate ticks. The eating ticks thing may have been an old wives tale. They also will sometimes kill snakes and will at least raise an alarm over it. ETA: Picture of Guinea for those who haven't seen one: http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh20/ignaci787/2007_guineas_chickens_052.jpg These are the ticket! Love them, best watchdogs and they will keep snakes away! We never had any luck keeping them on our property. In fact, the saying around here goes, "If you want to have Guineas on your land, raise them on your neighbor's land" |
|
id advise against meat chickens. you can eat layers and your not gonna save that much money raising meat birds.
id go with regular chickens. –––––– 28 chickens is a big fookin tractor. better make it two. also figure your gonna kill all but one of the roosters. aside from that. as far as free ranging goes. if they nest in the tractor, theyll go back in at night. especially if it has a roosting bar, which should be at least 4 ft off the ground. |
|
Quoted:
I decided to start with chickens I ordered 28 one day old pullet from http://www.ideal-poultry.com/ they are scheduled to ship tomorrow. 5 Danish Brown Leghorn 6 Black Australorp 6 Amerucana 5 Blue Andalusian 6 Silver Kraienkoppe I assume I'll lose some before they start laying so I'm building a tractor dragable coop sized for 18-20 hens or maybe two chicken tractors sized for 10, they will be primarily free range but I plan on making feed available. I found plenty of good information on http://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/index.php good luck whatever you choose. Here's what I use and I'm only carrying 7 (1 rooster and 6 hens). I've since added another cattle panel to make it longer and replaced the 2X4 with 4x4 for better support. You might considered building two for that many birds 
|
|
I'm less experienced with rabbits than some folks here, but I'll share what experience I have. Having done both, I think chickens are much easier (I've a right good bit of experience raising chickens), and I can't kill the cute fuzzy bunnies. Once I get attached to something soft and furry, it's no longer food for me, unfortunately. I've been away from the real farm for too long, and I've gotten soft. Even there, I had "my" cow, and she never took the last ride, ya know? Chickens are extremely low maintenance if you set them up right, and they're great producers for what they cost. With a dozen chickens and two of us, I can actually sell enough eggs to pay for my feed. And in a pinch, chickens will eat table scraps. Rabbits are a little harder in that way. Keeping a rabbit pen clean was always a problem for me. In theory it should work, but in practice, I found that they tended to want to use one corner of their hutch, consistently, for a bathroom, and the rabbit droppings would eventually stick to the wire and build up––turning into a big mess before I got time to do the cleanup. BUT it may be that there are better choices for flooring now. The "poop drops through" thing never worked really well for me. The more experienced rabbit producers here can speak to that better than I can. All that said, if your wife and you get attached to mammals, beware. It's a hard thing to get past. I know I CAN do it, but I don't enjoy it, and in fact I hate it. And following that, I don't enjoy "hating" something I have to do that often, feeding them every day and dreading the end and what's coming, yadda yadda. So I end up putting it off. I'd just prefer to eat something I'm not attached to, unless circumstances force me into it. Kitties |