Posted: 12/11/2012 8:25:54 AM EDT
| How many of you guys on here reload their own ammunition? I was wondering if it was cheaper to reload? I know you can really fine tune your powder and what not reloading your own, but is there a significant cost savings? I mean is it cheaper to just buy ammo in bulk or make your own in bulk? |
|
Oh boy this will be fun!
First suggestion: post in the relaoding forum and you'll get more responses. Yes, I reload as do thousands of others. Depending on how much you reload, it can be significantly cheaper than factory ammo. If you don't reload a lot, you'll probably never cover the investment in reloading equipment. You can start with a single stage press and one or two die sets for not much money then grow into better equipment if you find the need/desire. Plan on spending a few hundred dollars just for the basic equipment. There are probably reloaders in your area that would help with setup and initial training. |
|
Stop multiposting.
See reloading forum. Same post, different section... |
|
The intial cost to reload in quantity is a kick right in the ass.
After that you have to source components, usually they are only a great deal if you buy in bulk. Brass, once you have it is what makes the whole deal worth it, you can reload it 5 or so times and you don't have to continually keep buying more. A friend of mine got set up to reload .223 in bulk. It was very costly for everything, and prepping the necked cases is very time consuming, but in the long run a reloaded case comes in at about half of what it costs new, thats 100% more ammo for the same monetary cost. It is fun to do, but I keep going full circle on it and coming to conclusion that I could just work a few extra hours, and then take that money and buy ammo that is ready to rock and roll, then stockpile the brass to use at my friends house. I do want to get a hand press for myself though so I can reload my less used calibers, and I wish I could find a hand press for shotgun hulls because buying steel shot for waterfowl is way overpriced. |
|
17 years here for me and I've paid off my equipment a long time ago. I've got components stockpiled, going back that far, so match grade rifle rounds are probably at 35%-40% of factory, pistol stuff, about 25%-50%, depending on what bullets I'm using.
If you live a sloppy life, you're forgetful, you can't take direction and/or you're easily distracted, take up bowling, instead. Chris |
|
What are you using to reload? Progressive or single stage? I want to stockpile in bulk and have it and I think also that having the option to go and make some more rounds is always a good option.
Quoted:
17 years here for me and I've paid off my equipment a long time ago. I've got components stockpiled, going back that far, so match grade rifle rounds are probably at 35%-40% of factory, pistol stuff, about 25%-50%, depending on what bullets I'm using. If you live a sloppy life, you're forgetful, you can't take direction and/or you're easily distracted, take up bowling, instead. Chris |
|
Quoted:
What are you using to reload? Progressive or single stage? I want to stockpile in bulk and have it and I think also that having the option to go and make some more rounds is always a good option. Quoted:
17 years here for me and I've paid off my equipment a long time ago. I've got components stockpiled, going back that far, so match grade rifle rounds are probably at 35%-40% of factory, pistol stuff, about 25%-50%, depending on what bullets I'm using. If you live a sloppy life, you're forgetful, you can't take direction and/or you're easily distracted, take up bowling, instead. Chris I started off with the Dillon 550b, Speer and Nosler manuals, articles from HANDGUNS magazine and no Internet and I still have all of my fingers and teeth! Except for 22LR and and a box of Chicom steel core, I haven't bought factory ammo since the mid 90s. Chris |
I find that for common calibers like 9mm & 5.56, for most people it's cheaper to buy. I can still save about 30-40 % over factory, but I don't spew out 1000's of rounds on a progressive...yet  For not so common calibers that I shoot a lot of, like 10mm, I can save a pile of $$$. The real difference for me comes in custom tuning a specific round for a specific gun. Then again, almost every one of my rifles will out shoot me.
|
|
My cost to reload 9mm is $9.40 per 50. Not much savings. Same price for .40 S&W and .45acp, so more savings there.
For .223, its about $5 per 20. That's ' for high -end varmint rounds. The big saver is loading 7.5 Swiss for my K-31, for less than the cost of .308 surplus. |
|
Quoted:
My cost to reload 9mm is $9.40 per 50. Not much savings. Same price for .40 S&W and .45acp, so more savings there. For .223, its about $5 per 20. That's ' for high -end varmint rounds. The big saver is loading 7.5 Swiss for my K-31, for less than the cost of .308 surplus. That's where reloading pays off. The cost per quality, qc as advanced as you have patience for, tunability, and obscure calibers are all great reasons to reload. |
|
Remember also, that reloading one's ammo is a hobby within a hobby (shooting). It's a way to pass some time and to fine tune ammo to one's weapons, thereby increasing accuracy.
There's the initial start up cost for equipment and components, there's the time factor and there's finally, the enjoyment derived from the process. It's like taking care of your yard and garden. Some people enjoy the process and some don't, paying for others to do the work for them. As I said above, if time is scarce, or if you're a sloppy person by nature, or if you have plenty of money, buying factory ammo might be the best path to travel. For me, even with all of the grunt work involved with reloading, I enjoy building my own ammo...for others, there might not be that 'enjoyment' to make it worthwhile. We're all different on this account. Chris |
|
Quoted:
My cost to reload 9mm is $9.40 per 50. Not much savings. Same price for .40 S&W and .45acp, so more savings there. For .223, its about $5 per 20. That's ' for high -end varmint rounds. The big saver is loading 7.5 Swiss for my K-31, for less than the cost of .308 surplus. What bullet are you loading? |
|
Quoted:
My cost to reload 9mm is $9.40 per 50. Not much savings. Same price for .40 S&W and .45acp, so more savings there. For .223, its about $5 per 20. That's ' for high -end varmint rounds. The big saver is loading 7.5 Swiss for my K-31, for less than the cost of .308 surplus. I am reloading 9mm for 13 cents each. |
|
Quoted:
My cost to reload 9mm is $9.40 per 50. Not much savings. Same price for .40 S&W and .45acp, so more savings there. For .223, its about $5 per 20. That's ' for high -end varmint rounds. The big saver is loading 7.5 Swiss for my K-31, for less than the cost of .308 surplus. You are doing it wrong then as I load 9mm for $5.45/50rds. You have to buy in bulk for powder, primers, and bullets but you can save A LOT of money even on 9mm. That is using Hodgdon Universal, Winchester WSP primers, and 124gr Precision Delta jacketed bullets. Lead would be even cheaper but I don't want to mess with it right now. OP: Get a progressive press (Dillon 550B, Dillon 650B, or Hornady LNL AP), a powered trimmer (Dillon or Giraud), and buy components in bulk and you will "save" money. I use a Dillon RL550B and while sometimes a case feeder would be nice I can still load pistol pretty quickly as well as rifle. |
|
I am strongly considering getting the Hornady loader but I am going to read a book or two and see if I want to take this on.
Quoted:
Quoted:
My cost to reload 9mm is $9.40 per 50. Not much savings. Same price for .40 S&W and .45acp, so more savings there. For .223, its about $5 per 20. That's ' for high -end varmint rounds. The big saver is loading 7.5 Swiss for my K-31, for less than the cost of .308 surplus. You are doing it wrong then as I load 9mm for $5.45/50rds. You have to buy in bulk for powder, primers, and bullets but you can save A LOT of money even on 9mm. That is using Hodgdon Universal, Winchester WSP primers, and 124gr Precision Delta jacketed bullets. Lead would be even cheaper but I don't want to mess with it right now. OP: Get a progressive press (Dillon 550B, Dillon 650B, or Hornady LNL AP), a powered trimmer (Dillon or Giraud), and buy components in bulk and you will "save" money. I use a Dillon RL550B and while sometimes a case feeder would be nice I can still load pistol pretty quickly as well as rifle. |
|
If you are just starting out I would find a cheap single stage "O" press such as a Hornady Classic (sometimes you can find them for $75 used) and get a Dillon RL550B. I say the 550B because it can load virtually every cartridge on Earth (except 50BMG) and is simple to use without much tinkering required. It is a manually indexed press (so you must advance it) but you get used to that quickly and it becomes second nature. If you aren't going to get a case feeder I feel that the LNL AP and XL650 aren't set up to be used efficiently without the case feeder while the 550B seems better suited to doing so.
I would steer clear of turret presses as after watching my brother struggle to get the production rates he wanted with his Lee Classic Cast Turret he got a 550B is is MUCH, MUCH happier. The 550B and the LNL AP cost about the same as do caliber conversions while the XL650 will run you about $45 more per caliber and about $100 more for the press over the other two choices. As much as I want to get an XL650 I like the 550B too much to part with it as it can make very accurate ammunition very quickly and for a relatively cheap entry price. Use the extra $100+ to get a Giruad (if using a 550B or a press without a case feeder) or a Dillon (if using a case feeder on the XL650 or LNL AP) trimmer and start loading. The Dillon Super Swage is also a very nice tool when processing military brass with crimped primers and worth every penny of the $100 price. |
|
Quoted:
If you are just starting out I would find a cheap single stage "O" press such as a Hornady Classic (sometimes you can find them for $75 used) and get a Dillon RL550B. I say the 550B because it can load virtually every cartridge on Earth (except 50BMG) and is simple to use without much tinkering required. It is a manually indexed press (so you must advance it) but you get used to that quickly and it becomes second nature. If you aren't going to get a case feeder I feel that the LNL AP and XL650 aren't set up to be used efficiently without the case feeder while the 550B seems better suited to doing so. I would steer clear of turret presses as after watching my brother struggle to get the production rates he wanted with his Lee Classic Cast Turret he got a 550B is is MUCH, MUCH happier. The 550B and the LNL AP cost about the same as do caliber conversions while the XL650 will run you about $45 more per caliber and about $100 more for the press over the other two choices. As much as I want to get an XL650 I like the 550B too much to part with it as it can make very accurate ammunition very quickly and for a relatively cheap entry price. Use the extra $100+ to get a Giruad (if using a 550B or a press without a case feeder) or a Dillon (if using a case feeder on the XL650 or LNL AP) trimmer and start loading. The Dillon Super Swage is also a very nice tool when processing military brass with crimped primers and worth every penny of the $100 price. Most of this I agree with. I've been hand loading or reloading for almost 20 years. People see the elaborate setups of folks that have been loading a long time and think they have to buy everything they see. I have 6 presses and a bunch of other stuff that I did not buy all at once. It was acquired over an extended period of time. Reloading does not necessarily "save" you money. What it does do for sure is allow you to shoot more for the same money. A single stage press of good quality is the most valueable piece you can invest in. Yes, I have 3 Dillons but I also have a couple of RCBS Rockchuckers that I cranked my match grade ammo out on when I was competing in Highpower. Progressive presses are a convenience, not a necessity. A good press, scale and multiple reloading manuals are your best bang for the buck. Case gauges are also very helpful. There are a number of small items that make the whole process come together but the initial outlay of cash does not have to break the bank to get going. You have gotten a lot of good advice so far and that includes visiting the reloading forum. Read as much as you can, ask as many questions as you need. We'll be here for you. All I ask is that you keep us informed of your progress. That includes mistakes. We all make them. Pay attention when you reload. It's important. Good luck! 
|
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
My cost to reload 9mm is $9.40 per 50. Not much savings. Same price for .40 S&W and .45acp, so more savings there. For .223, its about $5 per 20. That's ' for high -end varmint rounds. The big saver is loading 7.5 Swiss for my K-31, for less than the cost of .308 surplus. You are doing it wrong then as I load 9mm for $5.45/50rds. You have to buy in bulk for powder, primers, and bullets but you can save A LOT of money even on 9mm. That is using Hodgdon Universal, Winchester WSP primers, and 124gr Precision Delta jacketed bullets. Lead would be even cheaper but I don't want to mess with it right now. I'm using Berry's plated bullets. Full retail, small lots. Yup, if you buy in bulk you can drive cost down a bunch. The bullet is the biggest cost in reloading. If you cast lead bullets, cost comes down even more. I don't cast. Yet. |
|
Quoted:
the initial outlay of cash does not have to break the bank to get going. This! I started reloading 30+ years ago, using a $15 Lee set. Even these are still CHEAP, and you'd be surprised what quality ammo you can crank out, albeit slowly, on them. Just unnerving, at first, using a hammer to reload. 
"Progressed" to a Lee Challenger kit some years later (I think it was $69, on sale),and it had everything you needed, less powder,cases,primers,and bullets. I have a numer of presses nowdays, but still use the old single stages a good bit. Pains me to buy components these days. Last batch of primers I bought was in '95; they were $70/10,000
Stockpile is about out 
Heck, bullets these days cost about what factory fresh ammo was at that time.
I do shoot a LOT more rimfire these days, due to costs. And reloading doesn't "save" you money: just lets you shoot more, LOL! |
|
This is why you sometimes post a question like this here.
I've been doing guns and around guns for half a century. 8 out of 10 people I've met who have reloading presses, they're just taking up space in their basement gathering dust. The real reason to reload is you can match the loading to your rifle and shooting style and if you spend the time and effort have ammunition that will rival the very best match ammunition. Eventually if you stock up on components, which most of us in the Survival forum tend to do, it can be quite the cost saver. I'm loading 55 fmj for about $150 a hundred, which btw by buying ahead ten years ago of surplus ammunition, I have been shooting at that cost level for fmj, well, way over ten years now. What I'm getting at here is understanding what is a temporary fad in your life, what it is not, and planning accordingly is very important to reloading cost analysis. Most reloading forums will have you go out and buy the progressive press from hell like you were going into the reloading business and most of them will end up collecting dust. I'm not kidding. If there was some national reloading equipment yard sale, the entire market would crash. There's stages where one breaks even in reloading. The gear is the easiest to figure, a press cost this much, calipers that much, trimmer that much, etc. The big one really is having used brass. Buying brass even used, reduces your initial financial payback. What I'm saying is, before you even buy a press, collect your brass. You'll not only save money but get a good idea of how much you shoot and what reloading equipment best fits your needs. Most shooters a simple low cost single stage is all they need and even most AR shooters a simple index turret press is all they need. Keep in mind, (this will not be a popular response) you shouldn't trim brass until after you sized it and seeing the entire idea of saving money is you use used brass, that kind of is totally against the grain of a progressive press which is one piece flow go as fast as you can, which are intended for putting new components together. The critical feature on .223 brass sizing is the case length. In a 5.56mm chamber, if it goes over 1.772" , it can bottom out and the rifle see a 10,000 psi pressure spike. Now you know why many rifle manufacturers void their warranty if reloads are used. Its not because reloads are inherently bad. Its because people are inherently lazy. Now if you follow all this, then maybe you are right for reloading, however if you can't work on a car, you probably can't safely load ammunition. It does require a degree of mechanical aptitude to do it right and the more knowledge you have on manufacturing processes and QC techniques the better you will do. Sorry I can't be more positive. Most people who start reloading just to save money simply get discouraged and after a couple years a few at most, there's one more press sitting in a basement collecting dust. Buy the right gear to match your shooting and care about the quality of what you load, the endeavor becomes worthwhile. Eventually everyone tires of just plinking, throwing ammo down range and starts wanting to thread the needle. TJ |
|
as leafinthewind and others have commented about reloading for specific performance or cartridges.... I got into reloading to support my competition shooting habits... first metallic silhouette, and there were no factory 7TCU produced, then a wildcat 7x51RMS (I'm the S)... when I got into USPSA it was the need for an economical volume, but also the need for a temperature consistent cartridge that made power factor... and one that did not smoke...for the Chevy STC we shot a ton of 12ga for practice...as my equipment progressed so did my age, and I'm not nearly as competitive as I once was, but still like to play... a switch from .45 to 9mm produced a need for an accurate 9mm projectile (147grain)
bottom line... for me has been the friends I've met in the last 30 years of shooting the gun games, particularly USPSA and in the last 15 or so 3 gun...I would not have been able to do it without reloading... FWIW, the first year I had my Dillon 450 (pre550) I was casting 200grain SWC... I cast, sized, loaded and shot 34,000 rounds of .45 |
|
It is a hobby to me, so I don't look at the actual costs much. Don't get me wrong, I still search for the best deal. Buy your equipment like you would a good power tool, and immediately forget the cost. Let it go. Feel the freedom! Reloading doesn't save you money, because you end up shooting more for the same amount you would have spent for shooting less. JUST DO IT! |
|
In the long run it is cheaper but you need to shoot alot to make it worth it. Remember the only thing you are saving is the cost of the Brass and the Labor. On average i can reload for half the cost of new factory ammo. Also if you ever need brass just go to a shooting range during the off hours and bring a large range bag, some dont allow you to keep brass but others do, ive fill a bag with so much brass i could barely lift it. I then sorted out the calibers i used and sold the rest in zip lock bags to friends and on gun broker.
It really is a fun hobby however it is time consuming, you can waste away a whole evening without even realizing it, great if you have nothing better to do, terrible if you dont have free time. |
|
Quoted:
Thank you for all the replies to my thread. I am going to read a few books before I even buy any reloading presses, I want to be as informed as possible. Read and find a buddy who can get your through the learning curve. I'm reloading 223 for .15.... 9mm for .11 40 and 45 about .15 308 .32. Huge savings if you shoot a lot. |
|
You using a progressive or a single stage reloader?
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thank you for all the replies to my thread. I am going to read a few books before I even buy any reloading presses, I want to be as informed as possible. Read and find a buddy who can get your through the learning curve. I'm reloading 223 for .15.... 9mm for .11 40 and 45 about .15 308 .32. Huge savings if you shoot a lot. |
The main reason I have not started reloading is because there are several 5.56 mm's in the family. All are sighted in for typical 55gr. Find a loaded mag under the truck seat, in a shoting bag, or wherever it will shoot correctly in any gun. I knew if I started reloading I would have many varities that I could potentially mix up. But, I have been saving brass forever and accumulating reloading equipment for the day that I run out of things to do.
|
|
my last batch of compnents had me reloading .223 for twelve cents (not counting brass, which I had)
that's boollits, primers & powder. My gear is old, bought on close out (RCBS single stage); there's surplus boolits for a nickle, bulk surplus powder for around $10 a pound (new similar is now +$25.00 lb) some guys swear off reloads from others or for their personal "Zombie final apocylpse shootout for life" stash, but it's like if you work on your own car; do you trust yourself? I'd do it if you're not all hung up on being to the penny efficent; for necked ctgs all the work is case prep; It's what I do in the workshop on long winter nights. If you take up IPSC, 3-gun or whatever, maybe a Dillon is what you need; I've been doing this for +40 years on a single stage and haven't missed a beat. YMMV,,,,good luck, and yes go read the stickys & FAQ's in the reloading forum, then lurk a while |
|
Quoted:
You using a progressive or a single stage reloader? Quoted:
Quoted:
Thank you for all the replies to my thread. I am going to read a few books before I even buy any reloading presses, I want to be as informed as possible. Read and find a buddy who can get your through the learning curve. I'm reloading 223 for .15.... 9mm for .11 40 and 45 about .15 308 .32. Huge savings if you shoot a lot. Dillon 550....Go blue, you won't be sorry. |
|
After loading 400rds of .45 on a single stage press there is ZERO chance that I would still be reloading if I didn't have the 550B now. I don't really "enjoy" reloading it is more of a necessary evil to me. If you really think of it as a second hobby then a single stage will be fine but I find it to be more of a chore than a hobby.
I have loaded about 10K rounds thus far on the 550B and still have to take a break from it sometimes as it just isn't that entertaining to me. Brass prep for .223 is the worst which is why I own a Giraud and a Dillon Super Swage 600
ETA: My 550B is worth $100 more than what I paid for it 5 years ago. |
|
Reloading will change your outlook on guns and shooting--for the better, I think. I can't really explain it in this post, but you will understand once you begin loading. Aside from the practical benefits, I just love doing it. Lurk around the reloading forum and the reloading boards on other gun sites, and just soak up the information. That's what I've done over the last 3-4 years, and I have gained a lot from it.
With reloading you must remember that informed, safe, consistent practice is essential. |
|
Quoted: The intial cost to reload in quantity is a kick right in the ass. After that you have to source components, usually they are only a great deal if you buy in bulk. Brass, once you have it is what makes the whole deal worth it, you can reload it 5 or so times and you don't have to continually keep buying more. A friend of mine got set up to reload .223 in bulk. It was very costly for everything, and prepping the necked cases is very time consuming, but in the long run a reloaded case comes in at about half of what it costs new, thats 100% more ammo for the same monetary cost. It is fun to do, but I keep going full circle on it and coming to conclusion that I could just work a few extra hours, and then take that money and buy ammo that is ready to rock and roll, then stockpile the brass to use at my friends house. I do want to get a hand press for myself though so I can reload my less used calibers, and I wish I could find a hand press for shotgun hulls because buying steel shot for waterfowl is way overpriced. The increase in accuracy realized by reloading you own rifle ammo would be worth it....even if the cost wasn't less than half. Having the ability to custom match your loads to each individual rifles barrel harmonics will decrease your group size by half. If you're into precision...it's the only way to go. I don't fuck with reloading pistol ammo though. Not enough possibility to increase accuracy to make it worth the hassle to me. The principle is the same and I have dies and components for pistol ammo...but it's for shtf. |