Posted: 5/2/2015 10:45:27 PM EDT
| Today I started digging with an auger ( Irwin hand.) I'm down 11' ran out of daylight and pipe. Right now there's about 3' feet of water in the bottom of my hole. Should I drop a 3" PVC casing in and finish by driving my sand point on down another 10' or so. Or keep augering after church? The last dirt I pulled up was clay. |
| Checked my hole this morning 6 feet of water. After church I'm going to try and drain the hole and keep augering another 10 feet or so. In poking at the bottom with my auger I can feel / hear gravel. If the auger doesn't work I'm gonna drop in the 3" PVC casing and drive the sand point another 10-12 feet. Any advice welcome will check for input after church. |
| After church I augered down to watery gravel at 14 feet. It was about the size of ping pong balls and smaller and just wouldn't auger out well . Dropped in a PVC casing 3". The water was surprisingly clear and cold. Put my sandpoint on 20. Feet of 1 1/4 galv pipe and started driving at 17 feet I'm only getting a couple of inches in 30 minutes of driving, don't want to damage the point but really wanted at least 20 feet in the ground. Have covered everything up for the nite and start again after work on Monday. Open to any ideas |
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After church I augered down to watery gravel at 14 feet. It was about the size of ping pong balls and smaller and just wouldn't auger out well . Dropped in a PVC casing 3". The water was surprisingly clear and cold. Put my sandpoint on 20. Feet of 1 1/4 galv pipe and started driving at 17 feet I'm only getting a couple of inches in 30 minutes of driving, don't want to damage the point but really wanted at least 20 feet in the ground. Have covered everything up for the nite and start again after work on Monday. Open to any ideas Get a bigger hammer and bust on thru... Maybe a fence post driver with some extra weight on it. Need MOAR pix... |
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Poured my concrete this weekend. Is there a link to post pics for a tech challenged arfcomer? Click on the 4th button from the right an icon of a jagged mtn on a white background. Then paste the URL for your picture in the line that is presented. Did you get a bigger hammer? |
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Quoted: Click on the 4th button from the right an icon of a jagged mtn on a white background. Then paste the URL for your picture in the line that is presented. Did you get a bigger hammer? Quoted: Quoted: Poured my concrete this weekend. Is there a link to post pics for a tech challenged arfcomer? Click on the 4th button from the right an icon of a jagged mtn on a white background. Then paste the URL for your picture in the line that is presented. Did you get a bigger hammer? |
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I wouldn't think a point would help in the bottom of what you already dug. Points are meant to operate in sand and be swapped out.
I would dig as deep as you can go, then fill the bottom with a couple inches of crushed stone. I would just dig as deep as you can stand to go and leave it at that. Unless you have a fairly high water table my guess is that's ground water, that could change with seasons. Hope you get lucky and have water year round though! In most cases its best to run casing to bedrock and get your fresh water from there. Obviously not possible by hand. My dad once dug a shallow well with an excavator, he used a large culvert for casing. It was as deep as the excavator would go. It was not good to drink though. Fine for flushing toilets and washing hands though. Of course my personal experience comes from my AO. Sounds like a fun project! In for pics. |
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We run a couple of shallow wells on our place. If you are going to run much volume through the well don't use a sand point. As long as your water table is fairly stable I think several feet of water would be fine. Use a "foot valve" at the end of the pipe inside of a casing and raise it a foot or two off the bottom of the well.
Sand points clog too easily. If you insist on a point make sure to leave a straight run to the bottom so the point can be cleaned. To clean it take the cap off the end and fire a 22lr down the pipe. The shock of the round hitting the water will force water back out of the screen to clear the pipe. |
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We run a couple of shallow wells on our place. If you are going to run much volume through the well don't use a sand point. As long as your water table is fairly stable I think several feet of water would be fine. Use a "foot valve" at the end of the pipe inside of a casing and raise it a foot or two off the bottom of the well. Sand points clog too easily. If you insist on a point make sure to leave a straight run to the bottom so the point can be cleaned. To clean it take the cap off the end and fire a 22lr down the pipe. The shock of the round hitting the water will force water back out of the screen to clear the pipe. But but wouldn't that put lead in your water? 
Just kiddin, don't sweat it. |
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We run a couple of shallow wells on our place. If you are going to run much volume through the well don't use a sand point. As long as your water table is fairly stable I think several feet of water would be fine. Use a "foot valve" at the end of the pipe inside of a casing and raise it a foot or two off the bottom of the well. Sand points clog too easily. If you insist on a point make sure to leave a straight run to the bottom so the point can be cleaned. To clean it take the cap off the end and fire a 22lr down the pipe. The shock of the round hitting the water will force water back out of the screen to clear the pipe. My dad said that was how my grandfather did it too. Mounted my pump today pumped about 40-45 gals before it quit. 30 later pumped another 30-40 gal. My pea gravel that I back filled around the casing had a lot of red clay residue in it should I take my hose and back flush it to clear it up? |
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My dad said that was how my grandfather did it too. Mounted my pump today pumped about 40-45 gals before it quit. 30 later pumped another 30-40 gal. My pea gravel that I back filled around the casing had a lot of red clay residue in it should I take my hose and back flush it to clear it up? Quoted:
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We run a couple of shallow wells on our place. If you are going to run much volume through the well don't use a sand point. As long as your water table is fairly stable I think several feet of water would be fine. Use a "foot valve" at the end of the pipe inside of a casing and raise it a foot or two off the bottom of the well. Sand points clog too easily. If you insist on a point make sure to leave a straight run to the bottom so the point can be cleaned. To clean it take the cap off the end and fire a 22lr down the pipe. The shock of the round hitting the water will force water back out of the screen to clear the pipe. My dad said that was how my grandfather did it too. Mounted my pump today pumped about 40-45 gals before it quit. 30 later pumped another 30-40 gal. My pea gravel that I back filled around the casing had a lot of red clay residue in it should I take my hose and back flush it to clear it up? How would that prevent the clay from 'returning'? |
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Quoted: How would that prevent the clay from 'returning'? Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: We run a couple of shallow wells on our place. If you are going to run much volume through the well don't use a sand point. As long as your water table is fairly stable I think several feet of water would be fine. Use a "foot valve" at the end of the pipe inside of a casing and raise it a foot or two off the bottom of the well. Sand points clog too easily. If you insist on a point make sure to leave a straight run to the bottom so the point can be cleaned. To clean it take the cap off the end and fire a 22lr down the pipe. The shock of the round hitting the water will force water back out of the screen to clear the pipe. My dad said that was how my grandfather did it too. Mounted my pump today pumped about 40-45 gals before it quit. 30 later pumped another 30-40 gal. My pea gravel that I back filled around the casing had a lot of red clay residue in it should I take my hose and back flush it to clear it up? How would that prevent the clay from 'returning'? |
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If you 'cleaned' the pipe, would the clay not settle out over time? Do that a few times and the clay is mostly out of the immediate are of your well? Just speculation. Quoted:
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We run a couple of shallow wells on our place. If you are going to run much volume through the well don't use a sand point. As long as your water table is fairly stable I think several feet of water would be fine. Use a "foot valve" at the end of the pipe inside of a casing and raise it a foot or two off the bottom of the well. Sand points clog too easily. If you insist on a point make sure to leave a straight run to the bottom so the point can be cleaned. To clean it take the cap off the end and fire a 22lr down the pipe. The shock of the round hitting the water will force water back out of the screen to clear the pipe. My dad said that was how my grandfather did it too. Mounted my pump today pumped about 40-45 gals before it quit. 30 later pumped another 30-40 gal. My pea gravel that I back filled around the casing had a lot of red clay residue in it should I take my hose and back flush it to clear it up? How would that prevent the clay from 'returning'? Doesn't OP mean the material he used to put between his well casing and the surrounding soil had some red clay mixed in it? If it isn't in the well proper, and just between the casing and the surrounding soil, it might not hurt anything, as the surrounding soil will likely 'compact' around and seal the casing over its length. If I understand what's going on correctly... OP, for a quickly driven/dug well, the water available is really good! |
| My water has cleared up nicely! Gonna have it tested Ina couple of weeks. Don't know if it's because of 3 days in a row of rain but I couldn't pump it down today . Really happy with the results so far. We all know how much room water storage takes. Can anyone tell me if this well is gonna be prone to freeze here in W.Tenn? |