Posted: 11/6/2014 1:43:28 AM EDT
I'd like to pick up a set in advance of this year's winter. Between the ice we had that shut down Atlanta last year  and the potential need to go get my FIL now that he lives alone and is a little shaky driving, I'd like to have a little insurance above and beyond my diff locking 4WD.
However, it IS Georgia and it snows like 1/2 day per year, so I know nothing about what brand or kind to get, and where to shop (Amazon is my go to for everything unless told otherwise). Suggestions? (FWIW, I've never had chains nor ridden in/driven a car or truck with chains in 45 years, and will likely never use these so I'm not looking to spend a ton) ETA - I left this in the SF in case there are other SHTF/preparedness recommendations for car/truck kit. |
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I bought these but have not had to use them in the last 5 years. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BTDKLG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Make sure you have clearance, drive slow. Like 4x4, it is supposed to get you there, but it's not getting you there in a hurry. |
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and it snows like 1/2 day per year Back in the day, when I would go skiing, I could buy some snow chains (actually the wire kind) and get a refund if I didn't use them. I lived in Southern California, and had little use for them except when I went to the mountains. |
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Are chains tire size-specific? It seems some are, and others are just "car" or "light truck/SUV". The tires on my truck on a bit taller/wider than normal.
What about specific tools needed to install them that should go in my toolbox? What are the differences in the different styles? Some seem to go across the tire in a basic "H" pattern, while others are in more of an "X" pattern. |
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Quoted:
Are chains tire size-specific? It seems some are, and others are just "car" or "light truck/SUV". The tires on my truck on a bit taller/wider than normal. What about specific tools needed to install them that should go in my toolbox? What are the differences in the different styles? Some seem to go across the tire in a basic "H" pattern, while others are in more of an "X" pattern. I used chains for an entire winter on my old 2wd CK1500. They were old double studded chains from before I was around. That was the only time I ever got them out. The Tools I used were Pliers and bailing wire (to wire the ends of the chains together as a fail safe should the chains come apart at the attachment and to wire cross ways over the hub to take out slack) 2 9/16" wrenches. Chains were bolted together. Get a pair of mechanix gloves and keep them in your pickup. Its damn near impossible to work tools in 0 degrees. |
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Dj, sane situation as you for the same reason. I got a set (4) of the wire type. Chains aren't needed around here and the amount of time you will use it the cheaper wires are fine.
I work for a local utility and that is what they put on their trucks. And they are the people you want out when the power goes out. I was stuck downtown for work during the time before snowpacolyse and they took me home. They said they all switched to the wire type from the chains. Chains just aren't necessary for us. They changed their entire fleet to wire type |
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www.tirechain.com for all of your tire chain needs. For your situation a set of cable chains would be fine. If you go with snow/ice chains I prefer the ones with the cam adjusters. Tire chains are sized by tire size, they must fit properly or you'll damage your vehicle. |
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Quoted:
Are chains tire size-specific? It seems some are, and others are just "car" or "light truck/SUV". The tires on my truck on a bit taller/wider than normal. What about specific tools needed to install them that should go in my toolbox? What are the differences in the different styles? Some seem to go across the tire in a basic "H" pattern, while others are in more of an "X" pattern. If you want it to be really easy get an extra set of wheels and tires and just leave the chains on them, change when necessary. |
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What about specific tools needed to install them that should go in my toolbox? snip I carry a small floor jack in my truck during winter driving. Makes installation much easier. - Jack the wheel off the ground - throw the chains over tire - tighten them as much as possible - spin the wheel (while off the ground) gravity will cause the chains to sag to one side - tighten, spin the wheel, tighten ... repeat as needed - drop the jack drive off. |
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Quoted:
If you want it to be really easy get an extra set of wheels and tires and just leave the chains on them, change when necessary. Quoted:
Quoted:
Are chains tire size-specific? It seems some are, and others are just "car" or "light truck/SUV". The tires on my truck on a bit taller/wider than normal. What about specific tools needed to install them that should go in my toolbox? What are the differences in the different styles? Some seem to go across the tire in a basic "H" pattern, while others are in more of an "X" pattern. If you want it to be really easy get an extra set of wheels and tires and just leave the chains on them, change when necessary. I would never consider it easier to change tires than put on chains, c'mon, it takes two minutes. Tom |
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Thanks for all the feedback. I work from home, so going out into the weather to get somewhere or someone would be very deliberate and I can throw these on in my garage with my floor jack if needed.
Cheaper sets look to be $30+ for 2, while better sets start around $95 for a pair. How closely are they sized? My truck has 285/70/17 A/T's while my Xterra has 285/75/16 M/T's. That's nearly the same tire dimension and I'm assuming a set that would fit one would fit the other. 
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The link to the tire chain store should explain some of the sizing options. Something to really pay attention to is clearance on the vehicle. I always pick on a lot of stock tire sizes looking small on a vehicle, basically you can buy one size larger tires and mount them up and not hit anything in doing this. Those tire chains like clearance. So on the stock size tires you probably have clearance. If you modified the truck, put em on and look closely. People rip off brake lines, massage tire wheel well edges, and sometimes hit other stuff as well like aftermarket bumpers they installed and did not clearance. I kind of want to buy a set of the cable for all 4 wheels of my jeep. But I am happy with the jeep wrangler and tire size I have so I am close to just buying 4 chains. In doing some reading you get into where people chain up 2 wheels or 4 wheels or buy this or that and set it and never adjust it again. I don't really plan to do it this winter since I won't be going north for the winter, but if my plans hold up by next winter I will want 4 real chains, v-bar seems ok in doing some reading, and enough stuff to handle tieing down a broken chain or replacing one perhaps and what not. As it is, if I am at work and can't make it home I probably can't leave work since we run 24/7/365 and if no one came in to relieve me of post I stay. If I am at home and can't get to work, I will drive home or leave jeep in ditch if I can't get out and walk home and call into work. I almost bought some never used tire chains at the 2nd hand store but in doing reading and looking things over it came down to a game of what do you expect to need. For this winter I don't really need to go out. Next winter, gonna have to go out. So cables would work ok for this winter but the added cost of real chains and all equipment has me planning on figuring out what I want/need and watching for a sale as winter ends perhaps. |
| The cable version and buy and use a set of 4 . . Make sure you have clearance and inspect them after driving a few miles to make sure they have not loosened up. As others said watch your clearance . also take them off as soon as you are on dry pavement . you can wear them out fast . Taken care of they will last many years . As a bonus you can use them in the mud |
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Cables are lighter, easier to put on, ride better, do less damage when they come undone, and can be operated a little faster, while offering almost as good traction.
Diamond pattern chains offer better lateral traction, than typical cross-links, not a valid concern for many people. You should be able to find some that will fit both your rigs, you should also consider some tensioners or a few rubber tarp straps as readjusting in traffic, and slush is unpleasant. IMO Trygg makes the very best chains, but more than most people need, and geared more toward commercial applications. Our local PD has gone to SCC chains and preferably cables, which by our vetting process means they are the cheapest ones we could find that aren't garbage. Personally I wouldn't bother, in fact I haven't, I fail to comprehend the need in the South, I live in the foothills of the Appalachians and drive a FWD car, RWD car, and 4x4 truck. They take up little space though so buy the cheapest you can find that aren't some gimmicky one size fits all "emergency" tire chain if you want them. Any auto parts store and probably most tire outfits should be able to special order them, get your order in now, last year when our inventory was depleted it took 4 months to get any in, from anywhere, they go on national back order anytime any region has a little abnormal winter weather. In 15 years of driving in AK I threw chains on a light vehicle twice, once to get back up onto the main road from a powerline right of way through 2.5' of snow, and once to get down a 3000' hill after freezing rain without ending up backwards. Didn't have any in MI or here. I have thrown chains a bunch on 18 wheelers, but that's a bit different. |
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Tire chains fit a group of tire sizes per chain size.
Be sure that you have bungee cords or the rubber spiders (of the correct size) to keep them tight. Practice installing them, I'm sure youtube will help there. Be sure all of the sharp parts of the chains( were the laterals meet the circumference chains) that the wrap/crimp ends do not rub the tires. secure the INSIDE first, then the outside. Make them both as TIGHT as possible, some chains use special wrenches. Then add the bungees to the outside to ensure tightness. PUT THEM ON YOUR DRIVE WHEELS. CHECK THE CLEARANCE to the wheelwell. Cables suck. keep the appropriate sized quick links (those little chain link things that have the screw on so you can add them to repair/complete a chain) in your truck. The cross links can and do break. They can be repaired (temporarily is the preference) with a quicklink. This is another reason to not buy cables. |
I always start with the chains on the front tires. Stopping and turning are important 
Also, the extra traction is enough to get moving even tho it's usually one one tire providing the traction vs 2 tires if you chained up the drivers. In GA, I would get diamond pattern vs. bars. A little smoother on the pavement, not quite the same pull... |
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Whatever you get, cables or chains, PRACTICE putting them on ahead of time. Lay them out, drive onto them, pick up the ends, hang over the wheel, lock and tighten. Then PRACTICE again, with gloves. Then PRACTICE when it gets cold. Use the rubber bungee type tensioners. And finally, put them on BEFORE you get stuck. Putting chains on while in a ditch, or even stuck in a driveway, really sucks. And I'll be quite happy if I never have to 'sling iron' again. |
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I've honestly never used chains. Damn near everywhere I've ever lived it's either:
(A) You only need them if you DO NOT have 4WD, or (B) They're outright illegal because of what they do to the roads But I've been in a shitton of snow. A good 4x4, a good driver... you don't need them unless there's some kinda checkpoint that won't let you past without them. Georgia? Look, we all remember last year... You can't fix people who can't drive, and that's what that was. |
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Looking at your vehicles, so long as the tires are decent, I wouldn't even bother wasting money on them. If it's for the 1/2 a day per year it snows, than it's likely to be the other asshats on the road that prevent you from getting somewhere, not the capability--or lack thereof--of your vehicles.
Here we get considerably more than 1/2 day of snow per year, and I've yet to need tire chains, especially with 4by. Even heading west where it opens up to prairies (meaning more blowing snow/ice) simply driving sane and within your capabilities will handle all you need. Just my 2cents, (though I live 15 miles from town in northern Mimnesota, off 5 miles of dirt the township gets around to plowing 24-36 hours AFTER the storm, don't use chains, and still try to keep the truck parked and drive my 94 dodge spirit unless it's 6 inches or more )
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D_J How much does your bumper cost on that Toyota? A pair of "good" chains cost about $105 plus shipping.
I bought the diamond type "flat link" chains for our Tundra. Rear only. Tried them on, but the Wife hasn't had to use them yet. They don't cost anything to keep in the garage in the Summer and carry in the truck in the Winter. Toyota says to only chain the rear tires on our Tundra. I grew up with the regular link chains, either regular or V (ice breakers) and I like them much more than the cable type. I had a F350 2x and the first time I put cable chains on and put a little power to the wheels I had a few broken cables. I carry cable chains year around in my commuter car, just in case. PIA to put on when the wheel wells are full of snow. When the weather is getting bad I drive my Tacoma TRD. Studs on all 4. Regular link chains for the rear and cable chains for the front. In the 16 years I've worked where I do...middle of nowhere...I've only had to do the full chain up twice. There are conditions that require chains. No chains, no go. Drive slow! If you don't have to go, don't. Edit: You might be able to go and stop, but the guy that thinks he only needs skill, without the proper equipment, to drive on ice/snow may run into you. I often see those guys in the ditch in the Winter. Don't be "that guy". |
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Quoted: www.tirechain.com for all of your tire chain needs. For your situation a set of cable chains would be fine. If you go with snow/ice chains I prefer the ones with the cam adjusters. Tire chains are sized by tire size, they must fit properly or you'll damage your vehicle. Nice web site.... WTF with Colorado, they have all kinds of laws.....glad I don't live there  COLORADO
ALERT New Chain Law Fines up to $1313.00 |
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Quoted: Nice web site.... Quoted: Nice web site.... WTF with Colorado, they have all kinds of laws.....glad I don't live there COLORADO ALERT New Chain Law Fines up to $1313.00 As several people have pointed out a 4x4 and good tires will get you most places you need to go in snow, however when it comes to ice, chains or studded tires are the only way to go. I carry chains year round in my P/U and on my big truck but they get used for mud way more than snow or ice, I spend a lot of time working off road. If the roads/highways are bad enough for chains I'd rather shut down and wait it out. |
| I recently bought chains for my cars too. Both of my cars have 4 or awd but that doesn't do much on ice. I bought these Peerless auto trac because they got good reviews and seemed easy to install. They auto tighten so no jacking or stopping and starting to install. I found them cheaper at sport chalet then amazon. Walmart has them the cheapest if they have your size. Most of the complaints I've seen revolve around correct sizing so you may want to contact Peerless to confirm your size. |
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Thanks for all the advice!
I hear you guys who say you've never needed them, and I've never needed them either. When it snows/ices here, we just stay inside (I work from home anyhow). No plans to go out in bad weather needlessly. That being said, I figure they are (very) cheap insurance against getting stuck if I have to go out. And while I agree that you really only need 4WD for snow in all but the most extreme conditions, there are just too many people who haven't experienced the kind of ice we get here. Because we have so few true winter vehicles and so few road maintenance vehicles, we often get a slick-as-glass sheet of ice over the road with no snow, gravel or salt on top of it to create any traction. When that happens, a 4WD with front and rear lockers engaged is not much better than a basic FWD unless you have something to dig in the ice. That's the only condition I worry about, and then only when I might need to go rescue and recover someone. So, I fully expect that anything I buy will probably get inherited by my kids, having never been used - but I have a lot of other preps I hope to never need either. 
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Thanks for all the advice! I hear you guys who say you've never needed them, and I've never needed them either. When it snows/ices here, we just stay inside (I work from home anyhow). No plans to go out in bad weather needlessly. That being said, I figure they are (very) cheap insurance against getting stuck if I have to go out. And while I agree that you really only need 4WD for snow in all but the most extreme conditions, there are just too many people who haven't experienced the kind of ice we get here. Because we have so few true winter vehicles and so few road maintenance vehicles, we often get a slick-as-glass sheet of ice over the road with no snow, gravel or salt on top of it to create any traction. When that happens, a 4WD with front and rear lockers engaged is not much better than a basic FWD unless you have something to dig in the ice. That's the only condition I worry about, and then only when I might need to go rescue and recover someone. So, I fully expect that anything I buy will probably get inherited by my kids, having never been used - but I have a lot of other preps I hope to never need either. My little brother broke his arm (compound fracture) and the only reason we made it to the hospital was my dad had chains I always keep cables for all 4 tires on my Ridgeline just in case I hope I never need them. |
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Quoted: Dj, sane situation as you for the same reason. I got a set (4) of the wire type. Chains aren't needed around here and the amount of time you will use it the cheaper wires are fine. I work for a local utility and that is what they put on their trucks. And they are the people you want out when the power goes out. I was stuck downtown for work during the time before snowpacolyse and they took me home. They said they all switched to the wire type from the chains. Chains just aren't necessary for us. They changed their entire fleet to wire type |
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Gotta disagree. We had ice last year, not snow. We have rolling topography, and virtually no equipment dedicated to de-icing or plowing. Quoted:
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There is not enough snow and ice in Atlanta to stop a 4x4 Toyota.... Gotta disagree. We had ice last year, not snow. We have rolling topography, and virtually no equipment dedicated to de-icing or plowing. it's one of those things you will use 1 or 2 days every 3-4 years at best. but they will be pricelss those couple of days. |
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If you are at all handy And you better be if you are going to run chains EVER. Stop at a Truck or trailer repair shop Not a Truck stop Like a TA or A Petro or a loves, GO in and ask them if they have any broken semi truck broken chains. You can make a damn nice set for near nothing if you do it right. Most of the time it is just shortning up the length or fixing a broken link..
Have fun Jaime |
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We use chains every year. I've used them lots of years of my life, even made a set for an MG1100 years ago and it had front wheel drive and it was amazing what it could do with a set, [Until it got high centered on it's flat underbelly
Sometimes for mud. Sometimes on all wheels. We have them ready for this year and will be carrying one set in the vehicle and have another in the barn. I've posted here of a tricky way to put them on. Here's HomeSlices's thread a couple years ago... Chains |
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Here's one how to repurpose chains and where to find them cheap...
Chains Quote... Since the snow is going to be here, I was wondering abt snow chains for ATVs. Called the dealer and size "A" cost $70 and size "C" cost $80. The good news is my SO has been buying chains at the thrift stores over the years. She said 'look behind that shelf' and OMG there were about 10 boxes of chain sets. She paid a few bucks per set. So I laid out several pieces out of different boxes to compare, and lay around ATV tires. The common chains for 14 inch tires are one cross shy for a 25 x 8 x 12 tire, but look to be usable easily with the addition of another cross chain. The 25 x 11 x 10 tire seems to be...Etc, Etc.... |
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That tirechains.com outfit carries some pretty good stuff. I ordered irons from them for my skid steer I plow with and they've held up pretty darn good over the last 2 years, IIRC I've only broken one crosslink. As that time of year is approaching I need to get them out and check them, I think they may have been about ready for some hairdfacing to build them back up. They aren't the true square 'pewag' chain, when it comes time to rebuild these that will most definatley be ordered and used, absolutely cannot beat it!
But for a light pickup, which I need to order some to fit my new outfit's tires, I would just go with the square-link that they offer. Cam adjusters are nice, but bungies do a decent job too especially for automotive / light truck. For our dump trucks the cam adjusters are pretty much a the only way to go though. |
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That's the only condition I worry about, and then only when I might need to go rescue and recover someone. So, I fully expect that anything I buy will probably get inherited by my kids, having never been used - but I have a lot of other preps I hope to never need either. Tire chains aren't just for ice and snow. They used to be used a lot in the tropics and are still used a lot in summers for logging etc. I think they are a good thing to have on hand year round. I've always been a big proponent of them though I hate puting them on and taking them off.
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Tire chains aren't just for ice and snow. They used to be used a lot in the tropics and are still used a lot in summers for logging etc. I think they are a good thing to have on hand year round. I've always been a big proponent of them though I hate puting them on and taking them off. Quoted:
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That's the only condition I worry about, and then only when I might need to go rescue and recover someone. So, I fully expect that anything I buy will probably get inherited by my kids, having never been used - but I have a lot of other preps I hope to never need either. Tire chains aren't just for ice and snow. They used to be used a lot in the tropics and are still used a lot in summers for logging etc. I think they are a good thing to have on hand year round. I've always been a big proponent of them though I hate puting them on and taking them off. Good point and I didn't mean to marginalize their use - I was just speaking of my most likely need. |
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The biggest thing you can do to maintain control of your vehicle is slow down. Limit your top speed. 10 to 15 on glare ice, 30 on icy frozen roads with a little road texture still there. Let off the gas 1/4 to 1/2 mile before you need to stop. Let the car coast to slow down. Quadruple or more your normal braking distance. Take it real easy when starting.
Add chains without doing these things and you will still wind up in a ditch. ETA, we get both ice and snow here, yes the county puts a little sand down within 10 feet of the stop signs at major intersections, but other than that, there isn't enough heat to melt the roads from mid Jan to March. You could literally ice skate from where ever to town and back without damaging the blades if you so choose. I limit speeds, and my little FWD car and minivan don't have a problem getting there without chains. |
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I personally wouldn't bother with chains for ice unless -
- they were required - I expected to have to go off-pavement (drive across medians, etc) - there were hills that could not be avoided On level ground the ice simply isn't a big deal. Add in hills or high winds, then you might have problems. Even with properly adjusted chains there is a small risk of vehicle damage. Quoted:
WTF with Colorado, they have all kinds of laws.....glad I don't live there
COLORADO ALERT New Chain Law Fines up to $1313.00 You live near a mountain pass at all? Mandatory chaining up/carrying chains is for bad weather on roads that are virtually impassable for vehicles that aren't 4x4 or AWD if you don't have chains. If you get a few hundred people stuck in the middle of a snowstorm in the mountains because you're too dumb to have the right equipment, then a $1300 fine would be getting off lightly. |
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Quoted: Cables are lighter, easier to put on, ride better, do less damage when they come undone, and can be operated a little faster, while offering almost as good traction. Diamond pattern chains offer better lateral traction, than typical cross-links, not a valid concern for many people. You should be able to find some that will fit both your rigs, you should also consider some tensioners or a few rubber tarp straps as readjusting in traffic, and slush is unpleasant. IMO Trygg makes the very best chains, but more than most people need, and geared more toward commercial applications. Our local PD has gone to SCC chains and preferably cables, which by our vetting process means they are the cheapest ones we could find that aren't garbage. Personally I wouldn't bother, in fact I haven't, I fail to comprehend the need in the South, I live in the foothills of the Appalachians and drive a FWD car, RWD car, and 4x4 truck. They take up little space though so buy the cheapest you can find that aren't some gimmicky one size fits all "emergency" tire chain if you want them. Any auto parts store and probably most tire outfits should be able to special order them, get your order in now, last year when our inventory was depleted it took 4 months to get any in, from anywhere, they go on national back order anytime any region has a little abnormal winter weather. In 15 years of driving in AK I threw chains on a light vehicle twice, once to get back up onto the main road from a powerline right of way through 2.5' of snow, and once to get down a 3000' hill after freezing rain without ending up backwards. Didn't have any in MI or here. I have thrown chains a bunch on 18 wheelers, but that's a bit different. 4 years now on contract w/ county roads for snow/ice and I have chained up for 2 storms, one of which I pulled the chains off after a hour. Other storm was 1/4"+ of ice on everything so the chains stayed on for most of it, but really I had more problems with downed trees then the ice on the road  |
Chain up or air down...
We get some pretty serious snow and ice here for 5 months a year. I have never really bothered with chains on a 4x4 unless I was in an off road type situation involving ice and significant amounts of snow. Now when I owned a rear wheel drive truck I always had a set of chains behind the seat. I used them for seasonal roads but never needed them for pavement. Studded snows on the rear worked well and what would hang that truck up on pavement was deep snow. Off pavement in winter and ice conditions is tough with a 2wd truck. I tore one set of chains to hell one time trying to make it up a hill to our hunting camp. Reality is though, 2wd truck had no business doing what I was making it do. When I had a FWD car I kept a set of chains in it for the winter as well but never needed them. I have a 4x4 now and I could use them to get up my driveway during ice storms but for its easier to just park at the bottom and walk to my house vs. chaining up for the driveway. Unless your driveway looks like this 4~5 months a year I probably wouldn't bother with chains for a good 4x4. If you run a 2wd vehicle I would recommend it. 
Also for those running chains up front watch your brake lines. I would air down to 15 or so psi if the roads were solid ice/snow was having trouble and had to keep driving. ETA/ I always bought my chains here: http://www.etrailer.com/ |
