Posted: 1/8/2014 6:22:14 PM EDT
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Insulation, insulation, and insulation, for the oven section for max fuel conservation.
I was thinking abt buying one of the apartment sized propane stoves/ovens that are about 20 inches wide. For SHTF, the insulation in the oven is key for fuel management. The camping ones are likely to be poorly insulated. The dorm/apartment sized stoves use very little fuel for the oven, abt 15,000 BTU's if I remember correctly. There cost is about $350 and up, so starting roughly twice the cost of the camping stove's regular price. I'd set it up to run off a 20# BBQ cylinder and should run it for a year for as little as we'd use it in the barn. Even tho I've got a 120 gallon tank right beside it. I'd look for one that didn't need 120 vac to fire up the burners... This one is only 20 inches wide. 
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I've used a dutch oven to make Chicago pizza recently. The sky is really the limit with those whether over a camp fire, in an oven, etc...
I'm not sure but you might also be able to bake in a tandoori pot. Never tried a solar oven. If you can bake with it, that might come in handy! -Emt1581 |
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I have a sun oven:
Global Sun Oven I also have volcano collapsible grill with the propane attachment, heat hood, and dutch oven: Volcano Grill My good old Weber Grill, which gets hot enough to bake bread in especially if you use a stone and a cast iron dutch oven. Then I have a coleman single bi-fuel for a backup |
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A dutch oven will cook anything you want it to. I've made bread, pizza, pineapple upside down cake, honey ham, and more in them. Heck, you can even broil steaks with a dutch oven by only using coals on the lid, or give food a smoke by putting a tin foil cup of soaked chips inside with your meat around it.
Also dutch ovens work over propane burners, though its still nice to put some heat on the lid with coals. |
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A dutch oven will cook anything you want it to. I've made bread, pizza, pineapple upside down cake, honey ham, and more in them. Heck, you can even broil steaks with a dutch oven by only using coals on the lid, or give food a smoke by putting a tin foil cup of soaked chips inside with your meat around it. Also dutch ovens work over propane burners, though its still nice to put some heat on the lid with coals. I think I'll pick up a Dutch oven, they're cheap enough, but I've never cooked with one. My main concern is keeping the heat even, especially over an outdoor propane burner. Is this a problem? Easier with charcoal? Seems like it'd be real easy to burn the bottom of a loaf of bread while the top is still undercooked. |
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Whats wrong with the oven in the RV? The stovetop works but oven doesn't. Pilot light works and bar ignites but goes out after a couple minutes. Thinking thermostat but not terribly interested in replacing parts until I figure out what's wrong with it. I'd rather have an outdoor solution I can take with me after the RV. I do all of my brewing and canning outside, gets too hot inside. |
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The stovetop works but oven doesn't. Pilot light works and bar ignites but goes out after a couple minutes. Thinking thermostat but not terribly interested in replacing parts until I figure out what's wrong with it. I'd rather have an outdoor solution I can take with me after the RV. I do all of my brewing and canning outside, gets too hot inside. Quoted:
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Whats wrong with the oven in the RV? The stovetop works but oven doesn't. Pilot light works and bar ignites but goes out after a couple minutes. Thinking thermostat but not terribly interested in replacing parts until I figure out what's wrong with it. I'd rather have an outdoor solution I can take with me after the RV. I do all of my brewing and canning outside, gets too hot inside. Bad thermocouple... 
Or control board, in a lot of RV's. |
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The nice thing about cast iron is that once it heats it tends to evenly heat. So a nice thick dutch oven will heat pretty evenly for the most part. There are lots of articles and sites about cast iron cooking and what not so you can read up on what you want to buy. For instance, using one with legs outside is what I prefer but the inside use dutch oven has no little legs on it so it sits right no the burner or whatever is right over the burner. Since that oven in the camper is taking up space I would still read up on what it takes to see if the termostate is bad or the board someone mentioned. Might not be hard to fix, and probably not expensive if you can do it yourself. |
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Quoted: Bad thermocouple... Or control board, in a lot of RV's. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Whats wrong with the oven in the RV? The stovetop works but oven doesn't. Pilot light works and bar ignites but goes out after a couple minutes. Thinking thermostat but not terribly interested in replacing parts until I figure out what's wrong with it. I'd rather have an outdoor solution I can take with me after the RV. I do all of my brewing and canning outside, gets too hot inside. Bad thermocouple... Or control board, in a lot of RV's. IMHO, in the $$ you will spend getting a stove as good as what you already have, fix the one you've got or replace it. Hit craig's list for a GRTO even.
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| Make your own reflector over to use by the campfire: http://www.kayak2go.com/reflectoroven.PDF |
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Thanks for all the suggestions, guys, lots of options. At this point I think I'm going to start with a Dutch oven (been wanting one anyway), and maybe build a solar oven. I'm already too reliant on propane, be nice to find an option that didn't require propane.
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I would look into fixing it before you buy something else. Usually RV oven/stoves are crazy simple. Some older ones don't even have a thermocouple! Turn the oven on and look at the flame. What color is it? Is there no flame until after the flame spreader? (as in a gap. This means not enough air). Line blockage? (I've had this happen in propane stuff before). IMHO, in the $$ you will spend getting a stove as good as what you already have, fix the one you've got or replace it. Hit craig's list for a GRTO even. Quoted:
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Whats wrong with the oven in the RV? The stovetop works but oven doesn't. Pilot light works and bar ignites but goes out after a couple minutes. Thinking thermostat but not terribly interested in replacing parts until I figure out what's wrong with it. I'd rather have an outdoor solution I can take with me after the RV. I do all of my brewing and canning outside, gets too hot inside. Bad thermocouple...
Or control board, in a lot of RV's. IMHO, in the $$ you will spend getting a stove as good as what you already have, fix the one you've got or replace it. Hit craig's list for a GRTO even. No thermocouple in mine as far as I can tell, I have a parts list and it just lists a thermostat (same thing?). I've researched fixing it, came across one guy who had the same problem as I have and replaced every single replaceable part on his oven. Didn't fix it. He was persistent, at least. I don't really care that much about the RV oven, like I said, I want to be able to bake outside. It's too hot to bake inside for a good chunk of the year. RV has AC, but since I'm off-grid I can't really run it. |
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Quoted: No thermocouple in mine as far as I can tell, I have a parts list and it just lists a thermostat (same thing?). I've researched fixing it, came across one guy who had the same problem as I have and replaced every single replaceable part on his oven. Didn't fix it. He was persistent, at least. I don't really care that much about the RV oven, like I said, I want to be able to bake outside. It's too hot to bake inside for a good chunk of the year. RV has AC, but since I'm off-grid I can't really run it. The thermocouple is a safety device. It cuts off the propane if there is not enough heat to indicate that it is burning. They have been on them for a very long time. It should be located just above the pilot. |
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The thermocouple is a safety device. It cuts off the propane if there is not enough heat to indicate that it is burning. They have been on them for a very long time. It should be located just above the pilot. Quoted:
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No thermocouple in mine as far as I can tell, I have a parts list and it just lists a thermostat (same thing?). I've researched fixing it, came across one guy who had the same problem as I have and replaced every single replaceable part on his oven. Didn't fix it. He was persistent, at least. I don't really care that much about the RV oven, like I said, I want to be able to bake outside. It's too hot to bake inside for a good chunk of the year. RV has AC, but since I'm off-grid I can't really run it. The thermocouple is a safety device. It cuts off the propane if there is not enough heat to indicate that it is burning. They have been on them for a very long time. It should be located just above the pilot. I believe they call it a safety valve on the parts list. |
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Quoted: I believe they call it a safety valve on the parts list. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: No thermocouple in mine as far as I can tell, I have a parts list and it just lists a thermostat (same thing?). I've researched fixing it, came across one guy who had the same problem as I have and replaced every single replaceable part on his oven. Didn't fix it. He was persistent, at least. I don't really care that much about the RV oven, like I said, I want to be able to bake outside. It's too hot to bake inside for a good chunk of the year. RV has AC, but since I'm off-grid I can't really run it. The thermocouple is a safety device. It cuts off the propane if there is not enough heat to indicate that it is burning. They have been on them for a very long time. It should be located just above the pilot. I believe they call it a safety valve on the parts list. It is not a valve. |
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This one is only 20 inches wide.
http://img2.appliancesconnection.com/product/original/0c647d80d7c6cb2b86132e347ceb02e2.jpg I endorse this. We've been using the electric version over at the cabin for more than 25 years, before that I used it for about 2 years and before that it belonged to a great aunt who passed away.It will probably be there when I die. |
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It is not a valve. Quoted:
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No thermocouple in mine as far as I can tell, I have a parts list and it just lists a thermostat (same thing?). I've researched fixing it, came across one guy who had the same problem as I have and replaced every single replaceable part on his oven. Didn't fix it. He was persistent, at least. I don't really care that much about the RV oven, like I said, I want to be able to bake outside. It's too hot to bake inside for a good chunk of the year. RV has AC, but since I'm off-grid I can't really run it. The thermocouple is a safety device. It cuts off the propane if there is not enough heat to indicate that it is burning. They have been on them for a very long time. It should be located just above the pilot. I believe they call it a safety valve on the parts list. It is not a valve. There's no thermocouple listed on the parts list, I have the original paperwork. This range is original to the 1996 RV. I just priced the thermostat and the safety valve and they're both $80+. For the price it would cost to fix the oven I could buy a Dutch oven and maybe the materials to build a solar oven. Or buy the Camp Chef in my OP. All of which would be far more useful to me than an old RV oven that will be sold with the RV in a year or so. |
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Quoted: There's no thermocouple listed on the parts list, I have the original paperwork. This range is original to the 1996 RV. I just priced the thermostat and the safety valve and they're both $80+. For the price it would cost to fix the oven I could buy a Dutch oven and maybe the materials to build a solar oven. Or buy the Camp Chef in my OP. All of which would be far more useful to me than an old RV oven that will be sold with the RV in a year or so. I guarantee there is a thermocouple it is a failsafe device. It may have a different name, but could deadly without it. |
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I guarantee there is a thermocouple it is a failsafe device. It may have a different name, but could deadly without it. Quoted:
I guarantee there is a thermocouple it is a failsafe device. It may have a different name, but could deadly without it. I'm pretty sure some RV ovens don't have them. Here's an explanation of how they work, conforms with what I've read previously when researching my oven problem: typically after the thermostat calls for heat, here is what happens; assuming the pilot flame is already lit in the oven, when the thermostat is set to any temperature setting the oven pilot should become slightly larger or elongated, (this is also called the extended pilot or high fire), and begins to heat the thermal bulb (it’s not a thermocouple) attached to the safety valve. This thermal bulb, (see photo), when heated by the extended pilot flame, expands a bellows and opens a pathway in the safety valve and allows the LP to flow from the oven thermostat through the safety valve and on to the main burner where it is ignited by the pilot flame.
http://www.rvdoctor.com/2009/10/no-oven-operation.html |
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Quoted: I'm pretty sure some RV ovens don't have them. Here's an explanation of how they work, conforms with what I've read previously when researching my oven problem: Quoted: Quoted: I guarantee there is a thermocouple it is a failsafe device. It may have a different name, but could deadly without it. I'm pretty sure some RV ovens don't have them. Here's an explanation of how they work, conforms with what I've read previously when researching my oven problem: typically after the thermostat calls for heat, here is what happens; assuming the pilot flame is already lit in the oven, when the thermostat is set to any temperature setting the oven pilot should become slightly larger or elongated, (this is also called the extended pilot or high fire), and begins to heat the thermal bulb (it’s not a thermocouple) attached to the safety valve. This thermal bulb, (see photo), when heated by the extended pilot flame, expands a bellows and opens a pathway in the safety valve and allows the LP to flow from the oven thermostat through the safety valve and on to the main burner where it is ignited by the pilot flame. http://www.rvdoctor.com/2009/10/no-oven-operation.html Go outside and take a pic of the outside of the unit and post it. take a pic inside the oven of the pilot area. A thermocouple can be mechanical. Detects the proper heat and allows a valve to open. Not enough heat and the valve closes. It will fail closed for safety. |
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Go outside and take a pic of the outside of the unit and post it. take a pic inside the oven of the pilot area. A thermocouple can be mechanical. Detects the proper heat and allows a valve to open. Not enough heat and the valve closes. It will fail closed for safety. Quoted:
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I guarantee there is a thermocouple it is a failsafe device. It may have a different name, but could deadly without it. I'm pretty sure some RV ovens don't have them. Here's an explanation of how they work, conforms with what I've read previously when researching my oven problem: typically after the thermostat calls for heat, here is what happens; assuming the pilot flame is already lit in the oven, when the thermostat is set to any temperature setting the oven pilot should become slightly larger or elongated, (this is also called the extended pilot or high fire), and begins to heat the thermal bulb (it’s not a thermocouple) attached to the safety valve. This thermal bulb, (see photo), when heated by the extended pilot flame, expands a bellows and opens a pathway in the safety valve and allows the LP to flow from the oven thermostat through the safety valve and on to the main burner where it is ignited by the pilot flame.
http://www.rvdoctor.com/2009/10/no-oven-operation.html Go outside and take a pic of the outside of the unit and post it. take a pic inside the oven of the pilot area. A thermocouple can be mechanical. Detects the proper heat and allows a valve to open. Not enough heat and the valve closes. It will fail closed for safety. ^^THIS. In a way.......it is technically a valve. I cannot see a 'propane appliance' that new NOT have a thermocouple. Some of the smarter guy like EXPY may come along and correct me, but I just cannot see it. |
Y'all are welcome to google RV ovens. Mine is an Atwood Wedgewood R-1736. If you can find a thermocouple, you'll win a prize 
My original question was about off-grid baking OUTSIDE, like where it wouldn't cook the inside of the RV as well as the ham. I have zero interest in spending a single penny on fixing the current oven. It makes no financial sense for me, and it would be less functional than something I can cook OUTSIDE with. Did I mention I wanted something for baking outside? 
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Quoted: Y'all are welcome to google RV ovens. Mine is an Atwood Wedgewood R-1736. If you can find a thermocouple, you'll win a prize My original question was about off-grid baking OUTSIDE, like where it wouldn't cook the inside of the RV as well as the ham. I have zero interest in spending a single penny on fixing the current oven. It makes no financial sense for me, and it would be less functional than something I can cook OUTSIDE with. Did I mention I wanted something for baking outside? I aked you to take a picture of the Pilot area. Why are you not doing this? There are no ovens in RV's without a flame detection/shutdown device, at least since the 50s. |
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I've used all the propane and cast iron/wood/charcoal options mentioned. Currently, I'm using the Camp Chef Camping Outdoor Oven with 2 Burner Camping Stove from Amazon. Going on 4 years. I built a 10'/20' cook shed/porch off the front of my RV for cooking and storage when temps rise. The oven works great but is small and requires a smaller set of baking pans/dishes and is limited on size you can bake. Very light on fuel consumption.
Still, the best solution I've found between a wood fire and the expensive dorm style ovens. Go to Amazon and read the reviews and specifications to see if it is a fit. |
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OP- Several options I'd recommend for portability:
cast iron dutch oven- bought mine 20 years ago. the Camp Chef Camp oven- bought from Walmart.com on closeout for ~$140. Plus bought a propane tree, longer hose, and re-purposed a folding table from a junk pile. an old RV range/oven modified to make portable- free from Craigslist, but I offered the guy $20 to hold it for me for ~ three months until I got back to the area. Plus, two 3/8" brass flare nuts ~$3, ~ 4' of 3/8 copper that I had on hand for years, and a propane hose and male fitting I had on hand that cost me about ~$12. So I have ~ $35 bucks in it. Oops, added 4 pieces of quarry tile on the fixed shelf to smooth out the hot spots in the oven. All are susceptible to wind. esp cooking on top of the propane appliance. I have cooked many things on each one and feel comfortable cooking almost anything, albeit smaller portions in the Camp Chef oven. |
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I've used all the propane and cast iron/wood/charcoal options mentioned. Currently, I'm using the Camp Chef Camping Outdoor Oven with 2 Burner Camping Stove from Amazon. Going on 4 years. I built a 10'/20' cook shed/porch off the front of my RV for cooking and storage when temps rise. The oven works great but is small and requires a smaller set of baking pans/dishes and is limited on size you can bake. Very light on fuel consumption. Still, the best solution I've found between a wood fire and the expensive dorm style ovens. Go to Amazon and read the reviews and specifications to see if it is a fit. Thanks for the info on the Camp Chef. I imagine it's much more convenient to use than a Dutch oven if you're using it regularly. I did look at the interior specs and of course my little pizza pan won't fit. |
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I aked you to take a picture of the Pilot area. Why are you not doing this? There are no ovens in RV's without a flame detection/shutdown device, at least since the 50s. Quoted:
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Y'all are welcome to google RV ovens. Mine is an Atwood Wedgewood R-1736. If you can find a thermocouple, you'll win a prize
My original question was about off-grid baking OUTSIDE, like where it wouldn't cook the inside of the RV as well as the ham. I have zero interest in spending a single penny on fixing the current oven. It makes no financial sense for me, and it would be less functional than something I can cook OUTSIDE with. Did I mention I wanted something for baking outside?
I aked you to take a picture of the Pilot area. Why are you not doing this? There are no ovens in RV's without a flame detection/shutdown device, at least since the 50s. He posted the model of his stove. The manual with illustrations is easily found via a Google search. 10 seconds. Doing so shows an "expansion" [hydraulic] bulb connected to the gas valve and in the pilot flame, similar in fit to a standard thermocouple. But NOT a thermocouple, according to the manual. So his stove has a pilot proofing safety. I'm not sure if the 'expansion' bulb can be replaced without replacing the entire gas valve, but IIRC I think the entire valve asm has to be replaced. IDK. A call to an RV place would give the answer. The expansion bulb fitting at the gas valve looks similar to a standard hex nut of a thermocouple, but I haven't looked any further into this. |
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Thanks for the info on the Camp Chef. I imagine it's much more convenient to use than a Dutch oven if you're using it regularly. I did look at the interior specs and of course my little pizza pan won't fit. Quoted:
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I've used all the propane and cast iron/wood/charcoal options mentioned. Currently, I'm using the Camp Chef Camping Outdoor Oven with 2 Burner Camping Stove from Amazon. Going on 4 years. I built a 10'/20' cook shed/porch off the front of my RV for cooking and storage when temps rise. The oven works great but is small and requires a smaller set of baking pans/dishes and is limited on size you can bake. Very light on fuel consumption. Still, the best solution I've found between a wood fire and the expensive dorm style ovens. Go to Amazon and read the reviews and specifications to see if it is a fit. Thanks for the info on the Camp Chef. I imagine it's much more convenient to use than a Dutch oven if you're using it regularly. I did look at the interior specs and of course my little pizza pan won't fit. I do use my Dutch ovens for lots of stuff. Stews, pot roast, scrambled eggs, upside down cake ect.... but it sure is nice to have some muffins or pie or bread without having to fire up the charcoal. Just by luck I found a small, rectangular pizza stone at a yard sale in Oregon City that fits my Camp Chef. I bet it was hellish expensive new, but used stuff is out there. Probably for an RV oven but I can cook a small pizza or a large pizza in three pieces. 6 Biscuits instead of 8. You get the idea. It's just another tool. But it's a pretty nice one to have and it isn't that expensive. |
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Quoted: He posted the model of his stove. The manual with illustrations is easily found via a Google search. 10 seconds. Doing so shows an "expansion" [hydraulic] bulb connected to the gas valve and in the pilot flame, similar in fit to a standard thermocouple. But NOT a thermocouple, according to the manual. So his stove has a pilot proofing safety. I'm not sure if the 'expansion' bulb can be replaced without replacing the entire gas valve, but IIRC I think the entire valve asm has to be replaced. IDK. A call to an RV place would give the answer. The expansion bulb fitting at the gas valve looks similar to a standard hex nut of a thermocouple, but I haven't looked any further into this. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Y'all are welcome to google RV ovens. Mine is an Atwood Wedgewood R-1736. If you can find a thermocouple, you'll win a prize My original question was about off-grid baking OUTSIDE, like where it wouldn't cook the inside of the RV as well as the ham. I have zero interest in spending a single penny on fixing the current oven. It makes no financial sense for me, and it would be less functional than something I can cook OUTSIDE with. Did I mention I wanted something for baking outside? I aked you to take a picture of the Pilot area. Why are you not doing this? There are no ovens in RV's without a flame detection/shutdown device, at least since the 50s. He posted the model of his stove. The manual with illustrations is easily found via a Google search. 10 seconds. Doing so shows an "expansion" [hydraulic] bulb connected to the gas valve and in the pilot flame, similar in fit to a standard thermocouple. But NOT a thermocouple, according to the manual. So his stove has a pilot proofing safety. I'm not sure if the 'expansion' bulb can be replaced without replacing the entire gas valve, but IIRC I think the entire valve asm has to be replaced. IDK. A call to an RV place would give the answer. The expansion bulb fitting at the gas valve looks similar to a standard hex nut of a thermocouple, but I haven't looked any further into this. Thermo couple is a temperature sensor that activates a valve. The expansion valve is a thermo couple. I was waiting for him to quite playing semantics but alas I give up as he would admit he was wrong. I believe it is a "sealed" unit and appears it would need to be changed along with the valve. |
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Jeez dude, let it go. I couldn't give two shits about “winning” an argument with you about thermocouples. Why are you so obsessed with this? If I admit the broken oven has a thermocouple will you shut up about it? You were right, I was wrong, there you win. Collect your prize at the door.
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Thermo couple is a temperature sensor that activates a valve. The expansion valve is a thermo couple. I was waiting for him to quite playing semantics but alas I give up as he would admit he was wrong. I believe it is a "sealed" unit and appears it would need to be changed along with the valve. Quoted:
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Y'all are welcome to google RV ovens. Mine is an Atwood Wedgewood R-1736. If you can find a thermocouple, you'll win a prize
My original question was about off-grid baking OUTSIDE, like where it wouldn't cook the inside of the RV as well as the ham. I have zero interest in spending a single penny on fixing the current oven. It makes no financial sense for me, and it would be less functional than something I can cook OUTSIDE with. Did I mention I wanted something for baking outside?
I aked you to take a picture of the Pilot area. Why are you not doing this? There are no ovens in RV's without a flame detection/shutdown device, at least since the 50s. He posted the model of his stove. The manual with illustrations is easily found via a Google search. 10 seconds. Doing so shows an "expansion" [hydraulic] bulb connected to the gas valve and in the pilot flame, similar in fit to a standard thermocouple. But NOT a thermocouple, according to the manual. So his stove has a pilot proofing safety. I'm not sure if the 'expansion' bulb can be replaced without replacing the entire gas valve, but IIRC I think the entire valve asm has to be replaced. IDK. A call to an RV place would give the answer. The expansion bulb fitting at the gas valve looks similar to a standard hex nut of a thermocouple, but I haven't looked any further into this. Thermo couple is a temperature sensor that activates a valve. The expansion valve is a thermo couple. I was waiting for him to quite playing semantics but alas I give up as he would admit he was wrong. I believe it is a "sealed" unit and appears it would need to be changed along with the valve. I'm not trying to disagree with you, but I think its important for others here to have the info in the event they have the motivation and interest to get an understanding of the operation of some gas valves. I realize that most would rather admire themselves in their Christmas Kirafu survival jacket in the mirror. 
The single junction thermocouple doesn't by itself 'activate' anything. The single junction thermocouples don't generate enough "energy" or force in the magnetic coil they are connected to ---to actually MOVE anything. The thermocouple's job is to HOLD the safety armature SEALED MAGNETICALLY against the coil and the gas valve open ----ONCE the gas valve is moved by finger pressure/plunger or a stronger solenoid ---to the ON position In other words, the thermocouple and the electromagnet its connected to, needs MECHANICAL ASSISTANCE to do its job. Once the pilot safety armature is moved to ON to allow PILOT gas to flow, caused by [finger pressure or by a more powerful electrical solenoid force] against a plunger... The pilot is lit and the thermocouple consequently heated to produce enough juice to cause the electromagnet to hold the gas valve open. If the pilot goes out, the electromagnet to armature magnetic 'SEAL' is lost ---and the armature moves by spring force, and allows the gas valve to close. I will point out the following to preclude a confusing back and forth distraction... There ARE 'thermocouples' -sometimes called PowerPiles' or whatever, that are used in MILLIVOLT systems that have multiple thermocouple junctions inside them, and produce outputs of 1/2 to 3/4 volts... With sufficient energy to ACTUALLY MOVE A GAS VALVE piston. They are physically LARGER than the thermal device illustrated in the oven manual, to pretty much rule out their use in the oven application. Plus the manual describes the thermal device used in a manner to rule out a Millivolt device. Millivolt systems are commonly found on furnaces where they are used with remote thermostats and don't require any sort of outside power to operate the gas valve. Very nice inexpensive systems for what they can do. Hope this helps. |
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Quoted: Jeez dude, let it go. I couldn't give two shits about "winning” an argument with you about thermocouples. Why are you so obsessed with this? If I admit the broken oven has a thermocouple will you shut up about it? You were right, I was wrong, there you win. Collect your prize at the door. |
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To bad you argue with people trying to help you, Quoted:
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Jeez dude, let it go. I couldn't give two shits about "winning” an argument with you about thermocouples. Why are you so obsessed with this? If I admit the broken oven has a thermocouple will you shut up about it? You were right, I was wrong, there you win. Collect your prize at the door. If you want to help me with my original question instead of arguing an unrelated technical point, you can share your experiences with Dutch oven cooking. Charcoal, wood, propane burner? With or without feet? Vintage Griswold or new Lodge? What size? I'm really liking this 8 qt Lodge, and I have a gift card from REI that would cover some of the price: 
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Quoted: If you want to help me with my original question instead of arguing an unrelated technical point, you can share your experiences with Dutch oven cooking. Charcoal, wood, propane burner? With or without feet? Vintage Griswold or new Lodge? What size? I'm really liking this 8 qt Lodge, and I have a gift card from REI that would cover some of the price: http://www.rei.com/zoom/714247_9996Lrg.jpg/440 Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Jeez dude, let it go. I couldn't give two shits about "winning” an argument with you about thermocouples. Why are you so obsessed with this? If I admit the broken oven has a thermocouple will you shut up about it? You were right, I was wrong, there you win. Collect your prize at the door. If you want to help me with my original question instead of arguing an unrelated technical point, you can share your experiences with Dutch oven cooking. Charcoal, wood, propane burner? With or without feet? Vintage Griswold or new Lodge? What size? I'm really liking this 8 qt Lodge, and I have a gift card from REI that would cover some of the price: http://www.rei.com/zoom/714247_9996Lrg.jpg/440 |
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Quoted: Thanks for all your helpful comments. They've kept this thread right on track Quoted: Quoted: You posted a picture of a camp oven and I commented on it. Go back and read. Thanks for all your helpful comments. They've kept this thread right on track You are welcome |
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I don't know if it counts as baking but I have used a "Dakota Hole" with good effect. You could use a dutch oven over it to cook your bread and such.
I used a cast iron skillet over mine. The video below shows the hole http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXDlSjZ5fgQ |
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I use the Dutch oven all the time, including in the house for normal bread.
The volcano grill with the heat hood works great with a Dutch oven. I also use one in my weber for baking. I haven't tried it in the solar oven, but it's actually recommended. The heavy cast iron retains the heat and buffers out and temporary drops in temp, like when clouds pass over. |