Posted: 10/2/2012 9:29:39 PM EDT
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Hey guys, since hurricane season just ended here in florida I think it's time for me to buy a chainsaw to add to the garage collection since my house backs up to a nature reserve and backyard has a few oak trees. I've worked with a borrowed chainsaw here and there and normally it's been a stihl or husqvarna but I've never really had to buy one. Now the questions I have are this, do I buy new or used (yes used is cheaper but how do I tell if a chainsaw is past it's service life ) , what brands do you recommend as I've only worked with stihl and husqvarna . What bar length would be good for use in florida and just occasional use ( read : around the house and storm clearing ), any specific things or parts to check on a saw when buying a used one ? I'd like it to be a buy one and be done type purchase instead of having one of those tiny starter chainsaws that you get at Home Depot , probably $250-300 is where I'm comfortable since it will be sitting most of the time.
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| this one is on CL near me but don't know how to price it and/or a good model ? Seems to be a pawn shop http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/3261921929.html |
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Quoted: Stihl! When I bought mine the local power tools shop said get an ECHO but I had always used Stihl so I bought a ms250. I wish i would have listened and got the echo. Everytime I take the Stihl out the handle comes apart at the bottom of the saw and stargs flopping around. Aggravating as hell when you are out in the woods and have to drive 30 minutes to get it repaired. Anyways the bottom part of the handle is attached with a plastic nut that just pops out and is impossible to find, to date I have bought four. Get the echo. |
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this one is on CL near me but don't know how to price it and/or a good model ? Seems to be a pawn shop http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/3261921929.html That's a small, homeowner grade chainsaw. Not sure what they are new, but I know they aren't much more than they are asking for that one and it looks like it's been used a lot (but appears to be well taken care of)... I would say keep looking... how large of tree do you anticipate you'll need to cut worst case scenario? You'll want a bar at least 1/2 that size plus a few inches for "cushion". Example, you plan to cut a 3' diameter tree worst case scenario, I would recommend a 20" bar minimum. The MS250 is not going to pull a 20" bar and chain very well. Stihl is a great brand, but another one I would check into (can get good saws for cheap if you keep your eye out) is the used Home Depot rentals. Their rentals are Makita (Dolmar in blue & gray). Dolmar is one of the top 3 chainsaw manufacturers (with Stihl and Husky) and you will be well served by a used Dolmar. I got my Makita 6401from Home Depot for just over $200. It's a professional grade saw, 64cc that can be upgraded to OEM 73cc or 79cc or aftermarket 84cc bigbore kit if you need more power. A 64cc saw will easily pull a chain on a 25" bar if you don't push the saw hard. I think that would be a great low-cost alternative to buying a new, or even used Stihl. Stihls command a premium price in the used market; they hold their resale value very well. if you want a saw to sit in the garage for occasional use, you don't have to have a Stihl. I have an MS170 that I muffler modded & carb-modded to boost performance, and I have my Makita 6401 and those 2 saws will do anything I would ever want to do... and I burn wood for primary heat in my house... Quoted:
When I bought mine the local power tools shop said get an ECHO but I had always used Stihl so I bought a ms250. I wish i would have listened and got the echo. Everytime I take the Stihl out the handle comes apart at the bottom of the saw and stargs flopping around. Aggravating as hell when you are out in the woods and have to drive 30 minutes to get it repaired. Anyways the bottom part of the handle is attached with a plastic nut that just pops out and is impossible to find, to date I have bought four. Get the echo. That is a homeowner grade saw... the handles/hardware aren't as good as the mid-grade or professional grade. That being said, something is wrong here. You either have something else that is broken that is causing this, the replacements aren't being installed properly, or you aren't using the saw properly. You should not have to "pry" with the rear handle. If I'm thinking of the right part it isn't a part that's meant to carry a high load, it's only a vibration damper. A properly sharpened chain will let the saw sink through the wood with no prying. If you aren't touching up your chain after every tank or 2 of gas then you aren't keeping your chain sharp enough.... JMO |
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If you are interested in Husqvarna at all the 350/450 and 460 are the best in the landowner/homeowner series, skip over the 455.
If you have a little more money, anything in the XP lineup will be bullet proof for you. They are professional saws and made to be completely rebuilt if required, find a shop that deals in them, go in tell them what you want and ask for a free tune up after 10 hours, they will likely hook you up. |
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I know all the hard core Stihl guys will hate this comment.......
But I picked up one of the Poulan Pro 50cc saws (made by Husky) for $199 at Lowe's about a year ago.......and I've used the crap out of it, and it's been a VERY good saw. No problems at all, cuts great, and for $200......I'd definitely buy another one. Not saying that it's better than a $500 saw....but it's been a great saw for me. The smaller Poulan Pro's are not the manufactured in the Husky facility like the 50cc model (at least that's what I've read on all of the chainsaw forums). |
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I bought a Stihl farmboss with an 18" bar. Went with a non-safety low-kickback chain. Eats logs. Eats them.
Replaced a 7 year old craftsman that lived a good life, used 1-2 times a year....and this spring when it came out of the barn for some cleanup, it melted down in my lawn when I fired it up and walked away for 5 minutes to let it warm up and idle down. I'm betting that 7 years from now I won't have an issue with the Stihl melting down on my lawn. |
The right answer I think is to buy the brand with the best dealer support in your area. For obvious reasons that will vary from location to location. My first saw was an Echo CS-346 and it's a good little saw. When I wanted something bigger, I looked around my area to see who had the best local dealer support, and I ended up with a Stihl MS-261 
The Stihl is more saw than I'll ever need, but parts are readily available and it can be rebuilt. I'd rather error on the side of quality. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
| ANother vote for Stihl. I have a MS 361, since replaced by the 362. 20" bar. Great all around saw. Never can have too much saw (ok, you don't need a 660 to cut down a sapling). And a few chains so you can rotate them and keep them sharp. A quick pass using a hand sharpening kit before each use makes a huge difference. and don't forget your safety equip: Chaps or pants with the protective pads, good boots, helmet, good eye protection and gloves. Chainsaws and guns get my utmost respect. |
| I love my husqavarnas, just what ever you get remember to store them properly when putting them up for long term storage or you'll be having to repair/rebuild carbs and cleaning out the fuel systems. Gasoline doesn't store well at all and even worse when it's mixed with 2 stroke oil. So if you want it to start when needed run ou or siphon out the gas before storing and run some fogging spray through it and clean and protect the outside and you'll be good to go! Also chains are super important to getting the job done with out wearing yourself out and cursing your saw. Keep me sharp and clean. There are carbide tipped chains now that while pricey seem to stay sharp a really long time. I recommend sharpening regular chains by hand with a file and a file guide instead of machine sharpening. Using the file doesn't take that much longer than a machine and the edge seems to last longer than when done but a grinder, I'm guessing maybe a loss of temper due to the temps of the grinding bit or wheel, at least that's been my experience. But for SHTF storage get a repair manual, some extra chains a couple of carb rebuild kits( they are cheap) extra filters and plugs, plenty of stabilized gas, two stroke oil and bar and chain oil. Tools you'll want are the chain adjuster scrench which is the screwdriver and wrench combo, the files to sharpen it a rat tail and a flat bastard cut with the guides, and a way to grease your chain bar (such as the little push grease injector or a grease gun with a needle fitting). I keep all my stuff in one of the plastic chainsaw boxes so its a grab and go situation with extra stuff put up to replenish what get used out of the box. Eye and ear pro are a must along with good gloves and boots safety are a good idea for your boots. Some people use the chainsaw helmets with integrated face screen and ear pro and the leather chaps but that depends on what your doing, such as over head cutting etc. |
| here is the deal with chainsaws. same as guns, buy once cry once. When I was looking to buy all new yard equipment, I looked at what the landscapers had in their trucks and trailers....Honda, Stihl and Echo. there is a reason why. At my place of employment, we have a ton of chainsaws.....all stihl....they just work....and work and work, and we abuse the shit out of them.....badly |
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The right answer I think is to buy the brand with the best dealer support in your area. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile This. I have a Stihl MS-362 and an MS-261 with 3/8" chain. They run great, but I bought them because there is a good Stihl dealership nearby that has parts and service available. Also, as others have said, the Stihl FarmBoss is a great saw. If I could have just one saw on a budget, this would be it. It is the 870 of saws. [ As it is, I maintain a mile+ wooded driveway, so I have two saws. There always seems to be a tree down in the road. ] |
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this one is on CL near me but don't know how to price it and/or a good model ? Seems to be a pawn shop http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/3261921929.html That's a small, homeowner grade chainsaw. Not sure what they are new, but I know they aren't much more than they are asking for that one and it looks like it's been used a lot (but appears to be well taken care of)... I would say keep looking... how large of tree do you anticipate you'll need to cut worst case scenario? You'll want a bar at least 1/2 that size plus a few inches for "cushion". Example, you plan to cut a 3' diameter tree worst case scenario, I would recommend a 20" bar minimum. The MS250 is not going to pull a 20" bar and chain very well. Stihl is a great brand, but another one I would check into (can get good saws for cheap if you keep your eye out) is the used Home Depot rentals. Their rentals are Makita (Dolmar in blue & gray). Dolmar is one of the top 3 chainsaw manufacturers (with Stihl and Husky) and you will be well served by a used Dolmar. I got my Makita 6401from Home Depot for just over $200. It's a professional grade saw, 64cc that can be upgraded to OEM 73cc or 79cc or aftermarket 84cc bigbore kit if you need more power. A 64cc saw will easily pull a chain on a 25" bar if you don't push the saw hard. I think that would be a great low-cost alternative to buying a new, or even used Stihl. Stihls command a premium price in the used market; they hold their resale value very well. if you want a saw to sit in the garage for occasional use, you don't have to have a Stihl. I have an MS170 that I muffler modded & carb-modded to boost performance, and I have my Makita 6401 and those 2 saws will do anything I would ever want to do... and I burn wood for primary heat in my house... Quoted:
When I bought mine the local power tools shop said get an ECHO but I had always used Stihl so I bought a ms250. I wish i would have listened and got the echo. Everytime I take the Stihl out the handle comes apart at the bottom of the saw and stargs flopping around. Aggravating as hell when you are out in the woods and have to drive 30 minutes to get it repaired. Anyways the bottom part of the handle is attached with a plastic nut that just pops out and is impossible to find, to date I have bought four. Get the echo. That is a homeowner grade saw... the handles/hardware aren't as good as the mid-grade or professional grade. That being said, something is wrong here. You either have something else that is broken that is causing this, the replacements aren't being installed properly, or you aren't using the saw properly. You should not have to "pry" with the rear handle. If I'm thinking of the right part it isn't a part that's meant to carry a high load, it's only a vibration damper. A properly sharpened chain will let the saw sink through the wood with no prying. If you aren't touching up your chain after every tank or 2 of gas then you aren't keeping your chain sharp enough.... JMO Dayum. That's a heck of a deal. Do you know if they ever have the Makita equivalent of the Dolmar 5105 for sale? Same horsepower as the Farm Boss and nearly 2 pounds lighter. |
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I just bought an Echo CS-310. It's a 14 inch bar and a really nice saw. I've been using it to trim up trees on my property and it's awesome! I'm going to eventually get a bigger saw with an 18 inch bar and a bigger engine because the small Echo bogs down on larger trees. However, it works perfectly for normal trimming needs....like you would have after a hurricane.
I like having a couple of saws. A big one for big cutting needs and the smaller one for trimming and such. You'll find that you actually use the smaller saw more often. It's just SO much handier than a bigger saw. If you cut wood for heat and can only have one saw, then you want a bigger one. If however, you want a saw for trimming storm damage, the smaller saw is SO much handier. I paid $199 for it. WELL worth the money IMO. I think Echo has the best warranty out there....5 years for homeowner use. |
| Stihl farmboss 290 with a 18" bar. I heat my house totally on wood and after going through 5 or 6 cheaper saws this is the one that I settled on. Buy once,cry once. $375 plus or minus and worth twice that. I keep an OLD Craftsman with a 16" bar for small stuff and as a spare. TJR |
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Stihl MS 290 farm boss. Most come with a 18"bar. Mine came with a 16 and its a beast with that bar length. I started with a homelite saw and used the heck out of it, to the point that i needed a good saw. I heat with wood, so its needed now. If I were you, buy one of those $150 homelites (new) and you will be fine for the occasional around the house chore. Buy an aggresive chain for it and you will be set up. So what if it takes you more time to cut a tree or two after a storm, at least you wont have 300 bucks tied up in a saw you MIGHT use. |
| I have used a 24" Husqvarna, 20" Stihl , a 20" Shindawa, and several other brands to cut a lot of wood (my family heats our entire house (10,000 sq ft) with a wood burner). IMHO, the Husqvarna is the best chainsaw I have ever used. Next, is the Shindawa, but I'm not sure it's made any longer. The Stihl is okay, but that's it. I think a 16" or 18" saw would be fine for home use. |
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Dayum. That's a heck of a deal. Do you know if they ever have the Makita equivalent of the Dolmar 5105 for sale? Same horsepower as the Farm Boss and nearly 2 pounds lighter. Unless things have changed the Makita 6401 is the only rental saw they carry that is worth purchasing used. The pricing varies a bit depending on saw age and # of rentals; different stores in different regions seem to have different pricing policies. The rental dept can look up the "data" on the saw before you buy it. Mine was 2 years old and had almost 100 rentals on it. Some people have reported getting saws that were 5-6 years old, but only 10-15 rentals for less than $200. But I suspect those deals will be very rare, probably only found in areas where people don't rent saws much at all. My saw came with a new bar & chain when I bought it, but they couldn't find the "scrench" for it. My saw has been great; it has a nice "throaty" growl when bearing down in wood, just like you would expect from a professional grade saw. |
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Stihl! When I bought mine the local power tools shop said get an ECHO but I had always used Stihl so I bought a ms250. I wish i would have listened and got the echo. Everytime I take the Stihl out the handle comes apart at the bottom of the saw and stargs flopping around. Aggravating as hell when you are out in the woods and have to drive 30 minutes to get it repaired. Anyways the bottom part of the handle is attached with a plastic nut that just pops out and is impossible to find, to date I have bought four. Get the echo. you are reassembling it incorrectly or otherwise not doing something right. there are 87 bajillion 021/023/025 (older series) and ms210/ms230/ms250 saws out in the world, and they all use the same handle hardware. i have a (purchased new) circa 1992 stihl 021 which i use for pruning/trimming and it has a million miles on it. i have done the rings twice, some bits here and there including carb diaphragms and the fuel filter, but the thing just runs. i don't have any issues whatsoever with "the handle coming apart". stihl's clamshell saws are easy to take apart, easy to maintain, and my experience has been that they will last a really long time when fed 50:1 stihl synthetic pre-mix. ar-jedi 
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A Stihl Boat Anchor (aka MS290/Farmboss) would fit the bill nicely. lol, yes the MS290 is heavy and it's power-to-weight ratio is not all that great. the newer MS291 alleviates this somewhat and gets stihl back competitive in the 50cc class. http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ ar-jedi |
| When I moved to the mountains of Montana 20-some years ago I bought a Husky. When I moved to Texas 2 years ago the chain saw was still running fine, and I sold it for about 1/2 of what I paid for it new. All I ever had to do was buy a couple of new chains. I cut trees, most about 10"-12" in diameter and sawed up several cords into stove size pieces with it every year and it never once failed. I'd buy new, it will last forever if maintained properly, and will still be worth a lot when old. Can't remember for sure, but think mine was about 21", and just right for all-around ranch use. We used wood heat almost exclusively, so we cut a lot of wood over the years. |
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Quoted: Quoted: A Stihl Boat Anchor (aka MS290/Farmboss) would fit the bill nicely. lol, yes the MS290 is heavy and it's power-to-weight ratio is not all that great. the newer MS291 alleviates this somewhat and gets stihl back competitive in the 50cc class. http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ ar-jedi I'll take a pound of extra weight and keep over 100 bucks in my pocket. |
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A Stihl Boat Anchor (aka MS290/Farmboss) would fit the bill nicely. lol, yes the MS290 is heavy and it's power-to-weight ratio is not all that great. the newer MS291 alleviates this somewhat and gets stihl back competitive in the 50cc class. http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ ar-jedi I'll take a pound of extra weight and keep over 100 bucks in my pocket. If you don't use the saw much, that's not a bad decision. However, if you use the saw a lot, that extra weight is very noticeable very quickly. That said, professional grade saws from either Stihl or Husqvarna are IMHO vastly superior compared to consumer grade saws like the Stihl MS290/291 Farmboss or any consumer grade Huskie. For example, Husqvarna's 346XP is the same HP as the 290 Farmboss, but it's over 2 lbs lighter (11 lbs vs. 13 lbs). The 13.4 pound 71cc Husqvarna 372XP is rated at 5.4 HP and it weighs only .4 lbs more than the 3.8 HP Farmboss. With the power and RPM to turn higher performance 3/8" chain, the 372 easily cuts twice as fast as the Stihl 290 (actually it's probably 3-4x faster). I have a Husqvarna 372XP ($800), a Stihl 290 Farmboss ($400), and regular access to a Husqvarna 346XP ($500) which I run frequently so I speak from experience. I plan on listing the 290 farmboss on craigslist soon and putting the proceeds toward another Husqvarna 346XP. All things considered, the Stihl 290/291 is the best saw for around $400. However, unless you rarely use the saw, the pro grade saws are definitely worth the money. Here's what I personally like the best in three popular sizes: 50cc range: Husqvarna 346XP, 18" ($500ish, awesome smaller saw that can handle small and mid-sized jobs) 60cc range: Stihl MS362, 20" ($700ish, awesome jack-of-all-trades saw) 70cc range: Husqvarna 372XP, 20" - 24" ($800ish, absolutely rips without being prohibitively heavy) |
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why has the website for the husky refurbs? i bought one and love it. Really good deals most people seem to love the ones they bought, and they have a warranty. plus all sizes of saws.
Husqvarna 435 16-Inch 40.9cc | Refurbished Chainsaw regular $269.00 referb $172.00 http://www.vminnovations.com/Product_5048/Husqvarna-435-16-Inch-40-9cc-Refurbished-Chainsaw.html |
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All things considered, the Stihl 290/291 is the best saw for around $400. However, unless you rarely use the saw, the pro grade saws are definitely worth the money. Here's what I personally like the best in three popular sizes: 50cc range: Husqvarna 346XP, 18" ($500ish, awesome smaller saw that can handle small and mid-sized jobs) http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=MKA+DCS510+18&catID= ar-jedi |
| I've used big industrial sized units down to little electric 10" units and for occasional use around the house, I think maybe you should at least consider some of the smaller saws. I went with the husky 240 which is about 38cc with a 16" blade and it chews thru trees up to a foot with no problem and is a joy to use. I got mine for 200 bucks at tractor supply. Mine starts 2nd or 3rd pull and other than the occasional adjustment on the chain, it has bee rock solid. |
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A Stihl Boat Anchor (aka MS290/Farmboss) would fit the bill nicely. lol, yes the MS290 is heavy and it's power-to-weight ratio is not all that great. the newer MS291 alleviates this somewhat and gets stihl back competitive in the 50cc class. http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ ar-jedi I'll take a pound of extra weight and keep over 100 bucks in my pocket. If you don't use the saw much, that's not a bad decision. However, if you use the saw a lot, that extra weight is very noticeable very quickly. That said, professional grade saws from either Stihl or Husqvarna are IMHO vastly superior compared to consumer grade saws like the Stihl MS290/291 Farmboss or any consumer grade Huskie. For example, Husqvarna's 346XP is the same HP as the 290 Farmboss, but it's over 2 lbs lighter (11 lbs vs. 13 lbs). The 13.4 pound 71cc Husqvarna 372XP is rated at 5.4 HP and it weighs only .4 lbs more than the 3.8 HP Farmboss. With the power and RPM to turn higher performance 3/8" chain, the 372 easily cuts twice as fast as the Stihl 290 (actually it's probably 3-4x faster). I have a Husqvarna 372XP ($800), a Stihl 290 Farmboss ($400), and regular access to a Husqvarna 346XP ($500) which I run frequently so I speak from experience. I plan on listing the 290 farmboss on craigslist soon and putting the proceeds toward another Husqvarna 346XP. All things considered, the Stihl 290/291 is the best saw for around $400. However, unless you rarely use the saw, the pro grade saws are definitely worth the money. Here's what I personally like the best in three popular sizes: 50cc range: Husqvarna 346XP, 18" ($500ish, awesome smaller saw that can handle small and mid-sized jobs) 60cc range: Stihl MS362, 20" ($700ish, awesome jack-of-all-trades saw) 70cc range: Husqvarna 372XP, 20" - 24" ($800ish, absolutely rips without being prohibitively heavy) All the pulp cutters up here use huskies in the 72 cc range 20" bar and it gets it done. The tractor supply jobs are made of lower quality materials and will not stand up to the abuse of daily choppin. But the little 36 I just got with a long enough bar would be a sweet limber. |