Posted: 4/10/2012 7:32:23 AM EDT
| anyone know if the company has a phone number in the US I bought an E01 about 6 months ago used it twice and now it does not work. Tried several batteries and nothing. Cleaned the contacts. I bought it online for $15.00 not a big loss but thought I might call the company and check on their customer service, before I replace it. |
| http://www.fenixlight.com/snen.asp no number but this will tell you if you still have a warranty. |
|
Quoted:
anyone know if the company has a phone number in the US I bought an E01 about 6 months ago used it twice and now it does not work. Tried several batteries and nothing. Cleaned the contacts. I bought it online for $15.00 not a big loss but thought I might call the company and check on their customer service, before I replace it. Likely you didn't clean the right surface. I've seen this happen a number of times w/ mine. Try cleaning the face of the body on both ends. Rub on anything rough. Then clean the PCB where the body contacts the PC bd in the head. Put a battery in and short across the neg battery end to the housing to verify all the front contact surfaces are clean and the head works. Usually you can quickly diagnose or fix the problem this way. If that doesn't fix, take just the head and battery and contact the + term of the battery to the head and connect the - end of the battery to the PC bd. This will determine if the head works. Easy! |
|
Quoted:
anyone know if the company has a phone number in the US I bought an E01 about 6 months ago used it twice and now it does not work. Tried several batteries and nothing. Cleaned the contacts. I bought it online for $15.00 not a big loss but thought I might call the company and check on their customer service, before I replace it. I've bought two Fennix lights in the past 3 years (>$75 lights each) and experienced problems such as yours with both. Your mileage may vary, but my next will probably be a Surefire. |
|
Quoted:
check for continuity between the neg spring and the threads with a DMM. Yes, that will indicate if the switch is bad or not. Cycle the sw. I rarely have troubles with my Fenixs, I use them a LOT and have more than several. I won't buy Surefire anymore unless there's a mighty good reason. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
anyone know if the company has a phone number in the US I bought an E01 about 6 months ago used it twice and now it does not work. Tried several batteries and nothing. Cleaned the contacts. I bought it online for $15.00 not a big loss but thought I might call the company and check on their customer service, before I replace it. I've bought two Fennix lights in the past 3 years (>$75 lights each) and experienced problems such as yours with both. Your mileage may vary, but my next will probably be a Surefire. did you bother to contact fenix about repair? if you still have them you can send them to me. i will gladly take them. i wouldnt pay the price for surefire since you're getting out of date technology and paying a premium for it. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
check for continuity between the neg spring and the threads with a DMM. Yes, that will indicate if the switch is bad or not. Cycle the sw. I rarely have troubles with my Fenixs, I use them a LOT and have more than several. I won't buy Surefire anymore unless there's a mighty good reason. the E01 is a twist head but the spring may have become dislodged and not making contact with the base for some reason. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
check for continuity between the neg spring and the threads with a DMM. Yes, that will indicate if the switch is bad or not. Cycle the sw. I rarely have troubles with my Fenixs, I use them a LOT and have more than several. I won't buy Surefire anymore unless there's a mighty good reason. the E01 is a twist head but the spring may have become dislodged and not making contact with the base for some reason. My bad, can't keep up w/ all the models. 
I carry 2 of the CR123 single cell twisties always and once in a while I have to brighten the housing edge where it contacts the PCB and also gently scrape the PCB where it touches the housing edge. I'll bet 80% chance that's what the OP needs to do. Really not much else to go wrong. [Surefire wants ~$36 for a pack of 12 batteries now in the stores! Few yrs ago a box of 12 was $19] |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
check for continuity between the neg spring and the threads with a DMM. Yes, that will indicate if the switch is bad or not. Cycle the sw. I rarely have troubles with my Fenixs, I use them a LOT and have more than several. I won't buy Surefire anymore unless there's a mighty good reason. the E01 is a twist head but the spring may have become dislodged and not making contact with the base for some reason. My bad, can't keep up w/ all the models.
I carry 2 of the CR123 single cell twisties always and once in a while I have to brighten the housing edge where it contacts the PCB and also gently scrape the PCB where it touches the housing edge. I'll bet 80% chance that's what the OP needs to do. [Surefire wants ~$36 for a pack of 12 batteries now in the stores! Few yrs ago a box of 12 was $19] i have 2 P3D's and have had one problem with one of them. the base came loose, screwed it back tight and havent had a mins problem with it since. fenix lights are some of the best deals smoking when it comes to lights. quality and output are there and they have models that run on pretty much any batteries out there from AAA to 18650's. im getting ready to order a LD40 and a LD01 which im taking the head off of and putting it on a streamlight microstream light i have so it goes from a twist light to a clicky. will be powering it with a 10440 which increases the output from 72 lumen to an estimated 170. hit up battery junction or even botach for better deals on batteries. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
check for continuity between the neg spring and the threads with a DMM. Yes, that will indicate if the switch is bad or not. Cycle the sw. I rarely have troubles with my Fenixs, I use them a LOT and have more than several. I won't buy Surefire anymore unless there's a mighty good reason. the E01 is a twist head but the spring may have become dislodged and not making contact with the base for some reason. My bad, can't keep up w/ all the models.
I carry 2 of the CR123 single cell twisties always and once in a while I have to brighten the housing edge where it contacts the PCB and also gently scrape the PCB where it touches the housing edge. I'll bet 80% chance that's what the OP needs to do. [Surefire wants ~$36 for a pack of 12 batteries now in the stores! Few yrs ago a box of 12 was $19] i have 2 P3D's and have had one problem with one of them. the base came loose, screwed it back tight and havent had a mins problem with it since. fenix lights are some of the best deals smoking when it comes to lights. quality and output are there and they have models that run on pretty much any batteries out there from AAA to 18650's. im getting ready to order a LD40 and a LD01 which im taking the head off of and putting it on a streamlight microstream light i have so it goes from a twist light to a clicky. will be powering it with a 10440 which increases the output from 72 lumen to an estimated 170. hit up battery junction or even botach for better deals on batteries. Keep a P3D here in my desk for years! Quality batteries are on ebay for ~$120 per hundred and sometimes less. Rayovac are what I'm using right now with good success but haven't run any tests on them. It's important for folks to understand their lights. |
|
Quoted:
Keep a P3D here in my desk for years! Quality batteries are on ebay for ~$120 per hundred and sometimes less. Rayovac are what I'm using right now with good success but haven't run any tests on them. It's important for folks to understand their lights. Rayovac is what botach is selling. $129(i think) for 100 plus free S&H and no tax. not sure who makes the battery junction batteries but there are only like 3 or 4 makers that make all the batteries. then they slap on whomevers label that has ordered batteries. i have had good luck with the rayovacs and the sanyos. |
|
Do yourselves a favor and get rechargeable batteries! I use rechargeable CR123 and 18650s. They paid for themselves almost right away, as I use my lights a lot.
Also, I had one problem with a PD30, but their support sent me a video outlining how to clean and tighten the light, and it worked perfectly from there on out. Chris |
|
Quoted:
Do yourselves a favor and get rechargeable batteries! I use rechargeable CR123 and 18650s. They paid for themselves almost right away, as I use my lights a lot. Also, I had one problem with a PD30, but their support sent me a video outlining how to clean and tighten the light, and it worked perfectly from there on out. Chris not all lights will run rechargeables and you usually get shorter run times from them since they have less capacity. 18650's being the exceptions to most rules. |
|
Quoted:
Do yourselves a favor and get rechargeable batteries! I use rechargeable CR123 and 18650s. They paid for themselves almost right away, as I use my lights a lot. Also, I had one problem with a PD30, but their support sent me a video outlining how to clean and tighten the light, and it worked perfectly from there on out. Chris rechargeable CR123, sweet |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Do yourselves a favor and get rechargeable batteries! I use rechargeable CR123 and 18650s. They paid for themselves almost right away, as I use my lights a lot. Also, I had one problem with a PD30, but their support sent me a video outlining how to clean and tighten the light, and it worked perfectly from there on out. Chris rechargeable CR123, sweet Fenix does not recommend them for their lights. They run 4.2 v peak. I know people do it but be careful. Some lithium ions are specially made not to exceed 3v. They would work fine. |