[ARCHIVED THREAD] - BOT....Getting there...(pic heavy) (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 10/8/2011 8:32:09 AM EDT
Was given this....
Built this.... 
made this.... 
bought this.... 
Put it on here.... 
Today.... I cut the end to mate up with the opening in the bed where the tail gate was... 
and to protect the lights.....built some shrouds. 
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Excellent work. Looks like you could add 3 propane tanks across the front frame...? Or 2 tanks and a spare wheel-tire...? You could build a frame to hold 2 or 3 propane tanks, and 3 or 4 metal GI gas can pretty darn ricky ticky on that. That looks like a really nice setup. What are your plans? |
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Excellent work. Looks like you could add 3 propane tanks across the front frame...? Or 2 tanks and a spare wheel-tire...? You could build a frame to hold 2 or 3 propane tanks, and 3 or 4 metal GI gas can pretty darn ricky ticky on that. That looks like a really nice setup. What are your plans? I have 2 30# tanks for the front and the side will have 3 NATO cans (as pic above shown) Above the NATOs.....will be coleman fuel and K1 storage. Above the sink will be a shelf that will hold a LCI water can.....and there will be a rack to hold 2 more water cans. Everything will be lockable. |
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What else still needs to be done? Looking good thus far. I still have to install the gasket between the bed and the shell...then bolt them together. I have the lights....but need to build the pods to mount them in (aluminum....all 4 corners) I have a 10ft telescoping light tower...that will also have my antennas on it...I think.....may go with separate mast. Solar panel on top....and 2 golf cart batts.....inverter....vent fan....timer....interior lights....COMMS.... Lockable gun racks. few other things..... |
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My company just fired a guy thursday so I took his van that evening , I had a standard extended Chevy 3500 van and he had this http://thereadinggroup.us/uploads/product_pdf/Lo%20Pro%20Ready%20Van%20and%20VanII.pdf on a 3500 . theres a sliding door between it and the cab so I can enter it with out leaving the van . Man its so nice to have a secure van body , I think Im going to throw me a mil cot in it for if I ever need it . I keep my pack on me so I would have supplys for a few days . I spent this evening running wiring for 6 work lights (2 on each side and 2 on the back ) I only had 2 lights off my old van so I put them on it , Ill pick up 4 more next week . Still have to move my ham gear over to it but I can already see the benifits of using this style body . |
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My company just fired a guy thursday so I took his van that evening , I had a standard extended Chevy 3500 van and he had this http://thereadinggroup.us/uploads/product_pdf/Lo%20Pro%20Ready%20Van%20and%20VanII.pdf on a 3500 . theres a sliding door between it and the cab so I can enter it with out leaving the van . Man its so nice to have a secure van body , I think Im going to throw me a mil cot in it for if I ever need it . I keep my pack on me so I would have supplys for a few days . I spent this evening running wiring for 6 work lights (2 on each side and 2 on the back ) I only had 2 lights off my old van so I put them on it , Ill pick up 4 more next week . Still have to move my ham gear over to it but I can already see the benifits of using this style body . How much you reckon a body like that cost?.......I'd say quite a large ouch factor $$$ wise.... 
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what's it weigh and what's going to pull it?
and what will it weigh loaded? got a diesel 1 ton? you're not going to pull that off road are you? I suppose dirt fire trails will be fine, and streets will obviously be good. but that will not be kind to you or your vehicle if you get into anything other than graded dirt roads. it looks awesome for on road though. 
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what's it weigh and what's going to pull it? and what will it weigh loaded? got a diesel 1 ton? you're not going to pull that off road are you? I suppose dirt fire trails will be fine, and streets will obviously be good. but that will not be kind to you or your vehicle if you get into anything other than graded dirt roads. it looks awesome for on road though. Not for off road.....dirt road at best.... Suburban... I need to run it across scales over at the scrap yard. Loaded... 2400#.....at the most.... |
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Thanks for posting this Echo2.
One of my buddies has both of the major chunks sitting in his dang "back area", and I have been harping on him for about 5 years to do what you are doing. He has the tools, (and what he doesn't have he can get from me) and the shop to work in, and now that winter is here he has the time. I am going to print these pictures and give them to him.... |
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Thanks for posting this Echo2. One of my buddies has both of the major chunks sitting in his dang "back area", and I have been harping on him for about 5 years to do what you are doing. He has the tools, (and what he doesn't have he can get from me) and the shop to work in, and now that winter is here he has the time. I am going to print these pictures and give them to him.... post pics if he starts his build.... 
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Considered a Pintle Hitch vs. ball? just curious... ETA: Looks Really Freaking Cool!-Great Job BTW! I'm thinking a reverse receiver as to hook up to anything....per my conversation with Hawk308 today....I can have a ball or ring with the pulling of a pin. I'm trying to figure if I want to fool with a 7 pin hook up so I can charge the batt going down the road of the vehicle. |
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Late Model Chevy Avalanche was pretty simple, plug and play. Current F250 wired from factory. This forum was helpful back then-YMMV RV.net and for parts: RVsurplus may want to check a vehicle specific forum too. 'course if you can weld, surely you can wire a trailer?  Trailer wiring is easy....vehicle wiring intimidates me.....  ....
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Late Model Chevy Avalanche was pretty simple, plug and play. Current F250 wired from factory. This forum was helpful back then-YMMV RV.net and for parts: RVsurplus may want to check a vehicle specific forum too. 'course if you can weld, surely you can wire a trailer? Trailer wiring is easy....vehicle wiring intimidates me..... ....what is the BOV? |
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Late Model Chevy Avalanche was pretty simple, plug and play. Current F250 wired from factory. This forum was helpful back then-YMMV RV.net and for parts: RVsurplus may want to check a vehicle specific forum too. 'course if you can weld, surely you can wire a trailer? Trailer wiring is easy....vehicle wiring intimidates me..... ....what is the BOV? 99 Suburban |
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Real easy brother. You probably has the exact same set-up as my 99 Tahoe. The wires are all there. The regular 4 plug wires and the additional brake and power cables are taped up on the harness. The engine end of the brake and power wires are taped to tthe harness below the brake booster. Pulling the fuse cover reveals the spots to hook up both the power wire directly to the block and the other terminal is where you connect the power lead for the brake controller. The accessory block infront/left of the brake pedal has a plug in terminal for the "brake switch" lead of your brake controler. So basically you just:
1) untape rear wires and connect to 7 pin RV style plug 2) untape front wires 3) power lead directly to fuse box 4) brake lead inside cab to brake controller 5) power lead from fues box to brake controller 6) connect brake lead switch to connector block (convience center) 7) ground wire for brake controller to your favorite under dash ground. If you don't want to do the trailer brakes yet, you can still wire up the rear plug completely, and only connect the power lead to the fuse block until your ready to add a controller. I copied this from a web sight............................................... Brake controller connection 1998-1999 GM Trucks, Suburbans, and Tahoes 1. Locate the convenience center at the firewall just under the emergency brake pedal. 2. At the bottom of the convenience center locate the bottom row of cavities marked: • DRK GRN (Rectangular Shaped) • NAT (Square Shaped) 3. Inside the small square cavity (NAT) are two male spade terminals. The spade terminal on the right is the Stoplight Feed (A). 4. Connect an INSULATED 1/8” female spade terminal to the brake control’s RED (stoplight) wire. 5. Connect the female spade terminal to the male terminal specified in STEP 3. with dielectric compound (Tekonsha Towing Systems P/N 7200). |
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I hate you, but you have the coolest projects on here. I thought the hitch extension I modified to hold 2 walmart smart bins was good and now I see this I think that rocks, only thing to offer, you could bolt on 6"/8" PVC on the slants on the side to store tent poles, fishing poles, or even store water and since its above the sink, you could gravity feed from it. Just a thought. Keep up the good work |
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Real easy brother. You probably has the exact same set-up as my 99 Tahoe. The wires are all there. The regular 4 plug wires and the additional brake and power cables are taped up on the harness. The engine end of the brake and power wires are taped to tthe harness below the brake booster. Pulling the fuse cover reveals the spots to hook up both the power wire directly to the block and the other terminal is where you connect the power lead for the brake controller. The accessory block infront/left of the brake pedal has a plug in terminal for the "brake switch" lead of your brake controler. So basically you just: 1) untape rear wires and connect to 7 pin RV style plug 2) untape front wires 3) power lead directly to fuse box 4) brake lead inside cab to brake controller 5) power lead from fues box to brake controller 6) connect brake lead switch to connector block (convience center) 7) ground wire for brake controller to your favorite under dash ground. If you don't want to do the trailer brakes yet, you can still wire up the rear plug completely, and only connect the power lead to the fuse block until your ready to add a controller. I copied this from a web sight............................................... Brake controller connection 1998-1999 GM Trucks, Suburbans, and Tahoes 1. Locate the convenience center at the firewall just under the emergency brake pedal. 2. At the bottom of the convenience center locate the bottom row of cavities marked: • DRK GRN (Rectangular Shaped) • NAT (Square Shaped) 3. Inside the small square cavity (NAT) are two male spade terminals. The spade terminal on the right is the Stoplight Feed (A). 4. Connect an INSULATED 1/8” female spade terminal to the brake control’s RED (stoplight) wire. 5. Connect the female spade terminal to the male terminal specified in STEP 3. with dielectric compound (Tekonsha Towing Systems P/N 7200). Thank you Sir....I may get up under there this weekend... |
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Echo,
is your 'burb a 1500 (can't remember)? Can you add brakes to your trailer axles? Have you considered? The brakes on our '99 1500 are really sucking right now-this is a good reminder to get 'em done. and if you start messing with the wires, you may want to go ahead (if funds allow) and add a brake control box-just in case. This Brand was considered the standard back when I was towing the camper. YMMV the above mention of PVC is exactly what the guys do around here to 'hold stuff'....adding it there for water storage was a brilliant idea. plenty of room there in the trailer and in the 'Burb for EmComm Gear as well. That roof on the trailer would make a great place to plant some base station antennas..... |
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Quoted: Echo, is your 'burb a 1500 (can't remember)? Can you add brakes to your trailer axles? Have you considered? The brakes on our '99 1500 are really sucking right now-this is a good reminder to get 'em done. and if you start messing with the wires, you may want to go ahead (if funds allow) and add a brake control box-just in case. This Brand was considered the standard back when I was towing the camper. YMMV the above mention of PVC is exactly what the guys do around here to 'hold stuff'....adding it there for water storage was a brilliant idea. plenty of room there in the trailer and in the 'Burb for EmComm Gear as well. That roof on the trailer would make a great place to plant some base station antennas..... That brand is still the gold standard ,Good stuff . |
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Echo, is your 'burb a 1500 (can't remember)? Can you add brakes to your trailer axles? Have you considered? The brakes on our '99 1500 are really sucking right now-this is a good reminder to get 'em done. and if you start messing with the wires, you may want to go ahead (if funds allow) and add a brake control box-just in case. This Brand was considered the standard back when I was towing the camper. YMMV the above mention of PVC is exactly what the guys do around here to 'hold stuff'....adding it there for water storage was a brilliant idea. plenty of room there in the trailer and in the 'Burb for EmComm Gear as well. That roof on the trailer would make a great place to plant some base station antennas..... That brand is still the gold standard ,Good stuff . I'm going to talk with the Mrs this eve and see when she can be w/o wheels for a day.....I'm going with the full wiring package....7 pin and brake controller. Thanks guys... |
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Echo, is your 'burb a 1500 (can't remember)? Can you add brakes to your trailer axles? Have you considered? The brakes on our '99 1500 are really sucking right now-this is a good reminder to get 'em done. and if you start messing with the wires, you may want to go ahead (if funds allow) and add a brake control box-just in case. This Brand was considered the standard back when I was towing the camper. YMMV the above mention of PVC is exactly what the guys do around here to 'hold stuff'....adding it there for water storage was a brilliant idea. plenty of room there in the trailer and in the 'Burb for EmComm Gear as well. That roof on the trailer would make a great place to plant some base station antennas..... the axle has the brackets for a caliper...might consider....I'll see how it pulls. 1500....6k# +/- capacity.... yes....array is in the works.....
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If you are going to add brakes to the trailer, go with Kodiak and not the Tie Down Engineering trailer brakes. The Tie Downs rust at the drop of a hat down here in the salt air and I am sure the salt on your highways in the winter are just as harsh. Is it a difference of material.....or finish? |
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If you are going to add brakes to the trailer, go with Kodiak and not the Tie Down Engineering trailer brakes. The Tie Downs rust at the drop of a hat down here in the salt air and I am sure the salt on your highways in the winter are just as harsh. Is it a difference of material.....or finish? kodiak is stainless steel tie down is cast iron (at least that is what the rusted hulk of metal looked like). There is paint on them but it doesn't help. The Tie downs are usually only good for a year maybe two if you are lucky before you need full replacement. Boat trailer brakes are particularly bad down here and usually only get a couple of months to maybe a year maximum before complete replacement is required. Edit - Went to the Tie Down website - Looks like they no longer offer the cast brake caliper system. Make sure you get the stainless caliper option on any trailer brake system you get. My buddies boat trailer had the old cast style and we just ripped the entire system out. His boat trailer isn't very old. 5-6 years tops. His boat and trailer isn't more than 3k total (probably less) so brakes were a nice to have but not really required. |