Posted: 12/5/2010 11:55:32 AM EDT
| I need assistance from your experience in the 'glue' arena as to what glue to keep on hand. Is there a 'one size fits all' glue out there. This crossed my mind because I have a plastic item that needs gluing and I was wondering if I should just simply buy some model glue or is there a glue out there that does it all? I have used some of the 'Super Glues' when they first came out years ago and was NOT at all impressed by their holding capabilities. So educate me....what glue or glues manufactured nowadays do I need to have on hand for my 'Readiness' inventory? |
...but I do not love the bright sword for its sharpness, nor the arrow for its swiftness, nor the warrior for his glory. I love only that which they defend...J. R. R. Tolkien
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Glue? by dab2 May not have been intended, but it was there. I really have not found a one sticks all glue. I just buy the most appropriate glue I can find for each job. |
Asking for opinions on the internet and then getting upset for getting them is like stirring up a hornets' nest and then getting pissed because you got stung.
Halffast: post 1725
Halffast: post 1725
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Originally Posted By dab2:
I need assistance from your experience in the 'glue' arena as to what glue to keep on hand. Is there a 'one size fits all' glue out there. This crossed my mind because I have a plastic item that needs gluing and I was wondering if I should just simply buy some model glue or is there a glue out there that does it all? I have used some of the 'Super Glues' when they first came out years ago and was NOT at all impressed by their holding capabilities. So educate me....what glue or glues manufactured nowadays do I need to have on hand for my 'Readiness' inventory? Check out plastic welder epoxy for that plastic part you need glued. It is incredibly strong and easy to mix up little batches. I keep regular cheap walmart type super glue. I keep lots of 5 min and regular curing epoxy. I keep some JBweld epoxy. I also keep some of the epoxy putty on hand at all times. The potential of these glues is limitless. |
whatsoever ye would that men should do to you, do ye even so to them: Matthew 7:12
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Good topic.
Remember, many glues have a shelf life. I can think of about critical 8 glues/adhesives/epoxys to keep available. As far as crazy glue, it is a fantastic 'specialty' glue and is over hyped what it can do. For us, it has an important role due to its ability to 'suture' wounds and they heal very quickly w/ never a complication. We've been using it for this purpose since the late 70's IIRC. C-G gel [longer shelflife], something like a weatherstripping/Shoegoo/Gorilla glue, and a JB Weld epoxy stick would be first in a BOB. |
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The types of glue you need is determined by the nature of the object(s) being glued together. It gets very tricky when gluing objects together that are very dis-similar, such as wood and plastic.
Most gluing jobs succeed or fail on the basis of 1) Surface preparation, 2) Proper clamping and curing time/temp, and 3) Proper choice of glue. There is no substitute for being correct on any of these. Reading the instructions on the glue will take you far. If your project needs to be clamped––and most do–– practice setting up the object(s) and the clamps beforehand. A brief guide for woodworking glues:http://www.diyinfo.org/wiki/Types_Of_Glue This is a site I just bookmarked. It's interactive, and asks the two types of material to be glued. Play with this a little while, and write down your answers. http://www.thistothat.com/cgi-bin/glue.cgi?lang=en I would only add that plumber's epoxy putty is pretty neat stuff, but sets up FAST. As with most things, practice makes perfect. Given it's fast set-time, you should work practice with it first. Same with any fast-setting glue. Practice on scrap materials FIRST, before gluing the heirloom china. It is not a bad idea to buy a cheap object at a flea market, break it, and practice on that. As a favor to an old-timer friend of mine, I once glued together some old, badly cracked '03 Springfield stocks, using Devcon epoxy. I had to fill-in some voids with sawdust/Devcon mixture, and used acetone to remove any glue that seeped out. Sanded afterwards, of course. At the Gunshow, the repaired stocks sold like hotcakes, even though every one was labeled as repaired. Some folks could not find the repairs even after they were pointed out to them. All this took some surface prep, careful arrangement of clamps, and some experience. Some stocks had to be glued together in stages. Point is: I'm no genius, but a with a little experience and some care on your part, you can do the same, also. |
"The M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised." General George S. Patton Jr.,US Army
| I keep on hand a variety of adhesives, but the ones I simply will not allow myself to be without are, CA-type glue, 5-min epoxy, and JB-Weld. These glues will do dozens of things that other glues will not. |
Felicity, the companion of content, is rather found in our own breasts than in the enjoyment of external things; and I firmly believe it requires but a little philosophy to make a man happy in whatever state he is. - Daniel Boone
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You basically need three. 1) Ordianry white carpenter's glue, like the ones used in school for paper and such. 2) Gorilla Glue (buy gorilla tape as well) 3) Super glue/crazy glue, the one that you use a single drop of, also works for small wounds.
Other than that epoxy 2 component glue and sealing glue. FerFAL |
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I can't stress the shelf life enough, since they almost NEVER mention it on the packaging. Even unopened most of these glues start to lose holding power after as little as six months from going on the shelf. It's not that they stop working, they just start getting less and less effective. This is particularly true of the epoxy types. Also, do not leave them somewhere they can freeze or get overheated, it kills most glues.
I have tried a bunch of glues and read up on many more as part of my knife making. These days I use Loctite Depend 330 90% of the time for my knives and consider it a GREAT general purpose glue. It won't replace the super fast drying superglues, nor traditional wood glues in many cases, but for a high strength hold that will handle normal temps without issue it is great on most metals, glass, synthetics... Wood is fine, but it's not an optimal choice on softer or more porous woods when being bonded to each other, slower more fluid glues are better for their penetration further into the material. Otherwise what happens isn't the glue failing, but the material tearing apart at that point due to the shallow hold, you literally rip the surface off. The only down side is that the commercial loctite adhesives are expensive. My syringe of Depend 330 and the small can of activator ran $33. That's enough for a dozen or so knives, but you could go through most of it very quickly on a larger task. |
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Originally Posted By batmanacw:
Originally Posted By dab2:
I need assistance from your experience in the 'glue' arena as to what glue to keep on hand. Is there a 'one size fits all' glue out there. This crossed my mind because I have a plastic item that needs gluing and I was wondering if I should just simply buy some model glue or is there a glue out there that does it all? I have used some of the 'Super Glues' when they first came out years ago and was NOT at all impressed by their holding capabilities. So educate me....what glue or glues manufactured nowadays do I need to have on hand for my 'Readiness' inventory? Check out plastic welder epoxy for that plastic part you need glued. It is incredibly strong and easy to mix up little batches. I keep regular cheap walmart type super glue. I keep lots of 5 min and regular curing epoxy. I keep some JBweld epoxy. I also keep some of the epoxy putty on hand at all times. The potential of these glues is limitless. big ol yup |
That which does not kill me....only tries to kill me again.
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5 min. JB weld is great to have on hand, just make sure you get the 5 min cause the other stuff takes forever to dry. This stuff is great for things that would otherwise be hard to repair in SHTF situations like gas tanks or oil pans (have done both when wheeling).
Gorilla glue is awesome for all kinds of stuff and it's bond is amazing. Just remember that the glue expands so whatever you're gluing together needs to be taped or clamped if you want a tight fit up. Because it expands you'll get some excess that squeezes out of the joint so for that reason I like the clear over the original color (brown). You can glue metals together with this stuff long as it's not something structural and it also works great on fabrics for packs, bags, clothing or even shoes which could come in very handy. |
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Originally Posted By Kibby: I keep on hand a variety of adhesives, but the ones I simply will not allow myself to be without are, CA-type glue, 5-min epoxy, and JB-Weld. These glues will do dozens of things that other glues will not. This. I also keep a few tubes of Goop and some of the silicone sealing tape around. |
"When you remove the people's right to bear arms, you create slaves." -- Henry Clay
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Originally Posted By PA22-400:
I really have not found a one sticks all glue. . one of the most versatile is epoxy, its last a long time w/o being mixed as long as the container its in doesn't break. They make double bubble pacs for epoxy, like those small ketchup containers. I use them all the time and since they are one dose applications, they don't ruin the entire package when open. |
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i've got a bunch of JB Weld, Elmer's white glue, Devcon plastic welder and some left over epoxy from a plumbing repair job, stuff that was supposed to match the off white color of the tub.
i'v also got several packs of the 99¢ two part epoxy from Harbor Freight. it's kinda like JB Weld, but clear and i used it to fix the knob on a camping stove with no problem. cheap enough to pick up a few packs to have on hand. haven't tried any Gorilla Glue yet, and i've heard it has a shelf life, so i haven't bought any. back in he day i used plenty of plastic model glue. good stuff but doesn't work on all plastics. baking soda can be used as a kicker for super glues and i've seen people use multiple applications of it to fill voids, then sand it down. i've never been a big fan of the epoxy putty. i find it a huge pain to knead well. may need to try some of the newer stuff. |
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Sorry to be negative, but two part epoxies do NOT have a long shelf life generally, even in single serve pouches with no air. In fact, many are specifically designed with a fairly short shelf life. This isn't always the case, but you definitely cannot assume it will hold reliably. It will work, but you're getting just a small fraction of the hold strength.
Oh, which loctite was that for the rain barrels? |
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Originally Posted By TaylorWSO:
Originally Posted By PA22-400:
I really have not found a one sticks all glue. . one of the most versatile is epoxy, its last a long time w/o being mixed as long as the container its in doesn't break. They make double bubble pacs for epoxy, like those small ketchup containers. I use them all the time and since they are one dose applications, they don't ruin the entire package when open. http://vobaker.com/image.php?type=C&id=259 This peaks my interest....where would one acquire such ketchup packed epoxy? 
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Navy Carrier Vet--CV-66' USS AMERICA' '92-'96
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Originally Posted By fixer:
i've got a bunch of JB Weld, Elmer's white glue, Devcon plastic welder and some left over epoxy from a plumbing repair job, stuff that was supposed to match the off white color of the tub. i'v also got several packs of the 99¢ two part epoxy from Harbor Freight. it's kinda like JB Weld, but clear and i used it to fix the knob on a camping stove with no problem. cheap enough to pick up a few packs to have on hand. haven't tried any Gorilla Glue yet, and i've heard it has a shelf life, so i haven't bought any. back in he day i used plenty of plastic model glue. good stuff but doesn't work on all plastics. baking soda can be used as a kicker for super glues and i've seen people use multiple applications of it to fill voids, then sand it down. i've never been a big fan of the epoxy putty. i find it a huge pain to knead well. may need to try some of the newer stuff. Trick is to chop it off the stick in thin slices, and then to chop up the slices real quick. Knead all the fragments together quick-like, and you will have some additional time and be GTG. Don't do this with you wife's favorite kitchen chopper; use something else, like a chopper bought at a flea market. |
"The M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised." General George S. Patton Jr.,US Army
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Originally Posted By Echo2:
Originally Posted By batmanacw:
Originally Posted By dab2:
I need assistance from your experience in the 'glue' arena as to what glue to keep on hand. Is there a 'one size fits all' glue out there. This crossed my mind because I have a plastic item that needs gluing and I was wondering if I should just simply buy some model glue or is there a glue out there that does it all? I have used some of the 'Super Glues' when they first came out years ago and was NOT at all impressed by their holding capabilities. So educate me....what glue or glues manufactured nowadays do I need to have on hand for my 'Readiness' inventory? Check out plastic welder epoxy for that plastic part you need glued. It is incredibly strong and easy to mix up little batches. I keep regular cheap walmart type super glue. I keep lots of 5 min and regular curing epoxy. I keep some JBweld epoxy. I also keep some of the epoxy putty on hand at all times. The potential of these glues is limitless. big ol yup This and I will add a can of the instant cure spray, I don't have it in front of me but it will make the Super Glue 'Kick' once applied.........good stuff! |
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I keep a small plastic tool box just for glues.
Got them all because none do all things. Right tool for the right job. 
As far as SHTF, I will have to do with what I got at the time. GM |
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Originally Posted By Remyrw:
Sorry to be negative, but two part epoxies do NOT have a long shelf life generally, even in single serve pouches with no air. In fact, many are specifically designed with a fairly short shelf life. This isn't always the case, but you definitely cannot assume it will hold reliably. It will work, but you're getting just a small fraction of the hold strength. Oh, which loctite was that for the rain barrels? Hard to bond plastics- I found it at lowes but don't know who else might carry it. |
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Originally Posted By Remyrw:
Sorry to be negative, but two part epoxies do NOT have a long shelf life generally, even in single serve pouches with no air. In fact, many are specifically designed with a fairly short shelf life. This isn't always the case, but you definitely cannot assume it will hold reliably. It will work, but you're getting just a small fraction of the hold strength. Oh, which loctite was that for the rain barrels? really, Some of my stash is 5+yo, and seems to be working just fine. As a matter of fact, I used a tube of 5 min stuff that I found from a move in 2004, on some broken xmas junk and its holding fine. Do you have any documentation/source for the chemical breakdown. I would like to read it. |
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I'll see if I can hunt it down, but I'm not talking about having it not harden and hold, but more not being as strong as it's meant to be. An epoxy that might be rated to hold for 1500lbs of shear force while holding two particular materials might only manage 400lbs, for example. Still strong enough for most household stuff, but if you're counting on it to really work... In the situation I'm using them for it's important because they also breakdown a good bit over time after use, just more slowly. The really high end commercial epoxies have a VERY long life span but it's still finite before you're looking at a much weaker bond. Of course, that bond might still be stronger than the materials involved. On a knife for example the difference between a cheap fast cure epoxy that's five years old and new commercial grade epoxy might be the difference between that handle staying intact when used as a hammer or dropped off a building or when driven over by a vehicle. Heck, fifteen years from construction it might be the difference between popping off when bumped wrong and staying solid.
Ok, went and did some hunting before clicking submit. Here's one glue test from bladeforums and if you do your own search there for glue wars or glue test.... you'll get a bunch of educational results. It basically boils down to, "consumer epoxies have a fairly short shelf life and almost non adhesives handle freezing before use well. Heat is a killer too, but for obvious reasons more after use than before, not many of us boil or bake our glue bottles." http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337504&highlight=epoxy+wars |
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I use a lot, I mean a lot, of specialty glues from Loctite, two part marine epoxy, to Elmers wood glue but the one glue I keep around for general purpose is Gorilla Glue.
Its not the easiest stuff to use. Its by no means transparent, its very thick, and tends to expand quite a bit in application which one has to take into consideration. It does do pretty well in general applications even metal on metal. Tj |
"We prepare so we don't have to go to the Superdome!"
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thanks for the link,
really good infor First, I had been told over several years by very good knife makers, that Devcon 2 ton epoxy was a great choice for knife making. They had been told, no doubt by other great knife makers that it was great adhesive. Devcon 2 part epoxy was one of the very first adhesives to fail both Steve’s tests and mine. It rarely lasted more than a few cycles through the dishwasher. The learning here was: test and check every thing you’ve been told even if it comes from a very good source. Nothing beats an opinion more than testing it yourself. Given this, you probably shouldn’t believe another word that follows this one. I know I don’t believe half of what comes out of my mouth some times.
The second learning: Surface preparation is more important to a successful glue up than is the adhesive its self. Please don’t underestimate surface preparation. A mediocre adhesive with an excellent surface preparation will out perform an excellent adhesive with a poor preparation by a large margin. Steve diligently cleaned some of his test pieces with Simple Green, a soap that is often recommended for cleaning all kinds of things. The simple green apparently left a residue that prematurely failed all of his initial adhesive tests. Other surface cleaning solutions also left a residue that impaired adhesive performance. My tests on a roughed up or scratched surface using a fresh 36 grit belt versus sand blasting gave exceptionally clear results. On ten test pieces I prepared, one end was sand blasted and the other scratched with a 36 grit belt, all of the scratched surfaces failed. Six of ten of the sandblasted surfaces survived. THIS IS HUGE. Again, routinely, high caliber and very competent knife makers recommended scratching or roughing up the surface of a knife to provide a better purchase for the adhesive. Certainly this is true but sandblasting a surface vastly out performs a scratched surface to the point where I recommend a knife maker absolutely invest in at least a minimal sandblasting setup to prepare a surface for glue up. Watch chemical cleaners for residue. Test this by allowing you cleaning chemical to dry on a piece of glass and have a look. I use isopropyl alcohol myself. Third learning: Read up on your adhesive. With the Internet, there really isn’t a reason you can’t completely understand what you are working with. Gorilla glue was being used or at least considered for use in full tang knives since it tended to expand as it cured. I thought this was a great feature of this particular adhesive. It also seemed to make this adhesive perfect use for a full tang knife. Fill the hollow in the handle material part way, put it together and let the expansion fill the rest of the hollow. The problem is that the expanded (foam looking) adhesive has no mechanical strength at all. This was documented fairly clearly on the Gorilla glue web site but had not been ‘reported’ to others on the forums as a caution. On the other hand, you can’t believe every thing you read. JB Weld failed most dishwasher tests and is reportedly good up to over 400 degrees Fahrenheit. They must mean a dry heat dishwasher. Fourth learning: There is no one perfect adhesive. There are some that work really, really well at some things but not at all things. Gorilla glue outperformed every adhesive in my destructive tests when gluing wood to metal. It failed miserably when gluing metal to metal or metal to Micarta. Loctite Speedbonder 324 held a stunning 100lbs of weight when bonding metal to metal but failed early gluing metal to wood. Fifth learning: Thicker glue is easier to use than thin glue. Viscosity ratings are impossible to relate to so I’d suggest the perfect viscosity is butterscotch pudding. Peanut butter consistency is too thick, syrup is to runny and messy. This makes such a difference that if a couple of adhesives are close in performance, the hands down choice would be to go with the butterscotch stuff. I hope I’m not being too technical. Sixth learning: There are some amazing adhesives out there. Amazing adhesives. Our recommendations can and probably should fall to the wayside over the next several years as adhesives technology continues to improve. They glue cars together now instead of welding or rivets. Cars! Glued together! What the hell? Keep an eye open for new adhesives but make sure and test it. Seventh learning: Testing wasn’t all that hard. If you find a new adhesive you want to test, glue some wood to metal and throw it in the dishwasher for a half a dozen cycles. If it survives that, you might have something. If it doesn’t, don’t even consider it. If it makes it through the dishwasher tests, boil it for an hour or so. If it makes it past that test, you are really on to something. From there make something else up and let us know what you’ve found as you are probably on to a good one. Eighth learning: Industrial adhesives are generally better than adhesives packaged for retail sales to the general public. There are exceptions of course but it generally holds true. K&G epoxy, which is a recommended adhesive from our tests, is industrial epoxy ‘repackaged’ and marketed to knife makers and gunsmiths. Ninth learning: Gorilla glue shouldn’t have held up like it did. It was supposed to fail early and was just meant to bulk up the tests. It kicked most every other adhesives ass all over the block. Keep an eye out for things that aren’t supposed to work and try them out. Tenth learning: Steve found some adhesives I never would have. I found some he didn’t. Collaboration and sharing information helps the process. Not really a new learning but it’s worth repeating and it was clearly demonstrated here. Eleventh learning: There is a type of adhesive that cures by a lack of oxygen. I’d never heard of anything like it before. It’s called anaerobic curing adhesive and won’t cure well when the material is porous like wood. AND NOW FINALLY…. For wood handle scales to metal: Recommended: Gorilla Glue beat out every other adhesive in every test Loctite E-120hp K&G epoxy Golf shafting epoxy by Golfsmith Acraglass Avoid: Anaerobic curing adhesives JB Weld Full tang handles: Acraglass which was designed almost exactly for this kind of application. Avoid: Gorilla Glue or any other polyurethane expanding type glue. For metal to metal Recommended: Loctite Speedbonder 324 JB Weld PC7 Avoid: Any CA’s, ie superglues. These have no place in knife making anywhere except to fill flaws in handle material. For metal to man made materials (ie, G10, micarta, etc) Recommended: Loctite 324 Speedbonder or any of the overall use adhesives. For overall use: Loctite E-120hp K&G Epoxy Golfsmith Golf shafting epoxy Acraglass (Acraweld is different and was not tested. Acragel was tested and failed) |
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Originally Posted By Remyrw:
I'll see if I can hunt it down, but I'm not talking about having it not harden and hold, but more not being as strong as it's meant to be. An epoxy that might be rated to hold for 1500lbs of shear force while holding two particular materials might only manage 400lbs, for example. Still strong enough for most household stuff, but if you're counting on it to really work... In the situation I'm using them for it's important because they also breakdown a good bit over time after use, just more slowly. The really high end commercial epoxies have a VERY long life span but it's still finite before you're looking at a much weaker bond. Of course, that bond might still be stronger than the materials involved. On a knife for example the difference between a cheap fast cure epoxy that's five years old and new commercial grade epoxy might be the difference between that handle staying intact when used as a hammer or dropped off a building or when driven over by a vehicle. Heck, fifteen years from construction it might be the difference between popping off when bumped wrong and staying solid. Ok, went and did some hunting before clicking submit. Here's one glue test from bladeforums and if you do your own search there for glue wars or glue test.... you'll get a bunch of educational results. It basically boils down to, "consumer epoxies have a fairly short shelf life and almost non adhesives handle freezing before use well. Heat is a killer too, but for obvious reasons more after use than before, not many of us boil or bake our glue bottles." http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337504&highlight=epoxy+wars Rem, this is why many of us still use Conap, which has a very long shelf life. It is still favored by custom makers of golf clubs and a great many knife makers ever since Loveless mentioned it in the Loveless/Barney book. Even Tracy Mickley recommends it in a later thread around 2009. For those unfamiliar with it, Conap is a 2-part industrial epoxy, but sold in small kits. I have always obtained mine from Sheffield Knife Supply, but there are probably many other sources. It is pretty much foolproof. |
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Originally Posted By JoeRedman:
This peaks my interest....where would one acquire such ketchup packed epoxy? Fiber Instrument sales Here My list of glues I keep in the shop: High and low temp hot melt Silicone (AT&T stuff in metal tubes has a 12+ year shelf life) PL2 (caulking tube version of G. Glue - short shelf life) epoxy (syringes and packets) Wood glue Glue stick 3M HD spray glue Wall mart crazy (CA) glue Industrial gel CA glue. fingernail polish (sealant?) Contact cement |
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Originally Posted By DSRV:
Originally Posted By Kibby:
I keep on hand a variety of adhesives, but the ones I simply will not allow myself to be without are, CA-type glue, 5-min epoxy, and JB-Weld. These glues will do dozens of things that other glues will not. This. I also keep a few tubes of Goop and some of the silicone sealing tape around. Ah! This too! 
Goop is awesome stuff, and it comes in a few different shapes flavors *grin* I also forgot about that silicone tape. You are speaking of teh kind that adheres only to itself, right? We used to use that stuff when I was a GI... forgot what it was called... Another glue type of thing I discovered is the 3M marine sealant - the kind that comes in the caulking gun tube. For last few years I have rebuilt a half dozen or so aluminum boats, and this stuff is a POTENT, I tells ya. The guy at the marina says he hates it when they have to remove something that's been stuck on with this stuff, because it usually means they have to repair what it was stuck to also. He says they usually have to crowbar something off, and it takes a huge chunk of the hull off with it. Very tenacious. |
Felicity, the companion of content, is rather found in our own breasts than in the enjoyment of external things; and I firmly believe it requires but a little philosophy to make a man happy in whatever state he is. - Daniel Boone
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Originally Posted By Belt-Fed:
Shoe goo is good to have as well. My army buddy swears by it, He had me send him several tubes when the Iraq conflict first began. This ^^^ Shoe Goo is a wonderful glue that many people overlook because they just don't even think of it as a glue. This stuff is wonderful, it's flexible, yet it has a very high bonding strength. Comes in large tooth-paste like tubes so you shouldn't have to worry too much about running out of it. One thing I really like to use it for is patching holes in pants. I work a desk job in which I wear jeans most of the time, but I always get holes in my pants from things in my pockets. I don't want to sew patches on, and the iron on patches always come off. The one thing that absolutely won't come off though is a patch that I Shoe Goo on.
Shoe Goo holds a special place in my preps... |
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Non-archive status toggled.
I suggest that someone take it upon themselves to submit a link to this thread to the Gunsmithing, the Blade, and the Handyman/DIY Forums here. Ask them if they have discussed this topic, and if they have any links to add. TIA |
"The M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised." General George S. Patton Jr.,US Army
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This is what I have:
Couple botles of Gorila Glue. Couple tubes of superglue (works great for fixing small cuts with out sutures). Various epoxies including some original JBWeld and some of the JB Weld waterproof stuff (great for emergency leak stop and it is OK for potable water contact), Also have some 5 minute and 60minutes loctite brand epoxy. Figure if I can't fix it with this and duct tape, it is broke beyond repair. J- |
" I swear by my life and my love of it, that I will never live for the sake of another man, nor ask another man to live for mine." John Galt.
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Originally Posted By TaylorWSO:
Originally Posted By PA22-400:
I really have not found a one sticks all glue. . one of the most versatile is epoxy, its last a long time w/o being mixed as long as the container its in doesn't break. They make double bubble pacs for epoxy, like those small ketchup containers. I use them all the time and since they are one dose applications, they don't ruin the entire package when open. http://vobaker.com/image.php?type=C&id=259 That is very interesting packaging. |
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When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty. -- Thomas Jefferson
